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Charting the Unknown: James Cook’s First Voyage (Part 2)

Dated timeline · 706 events

This timeline follows Captain James Cook’s legendary first voyage as he sails from the stormy waters of Cape Horn into the heart of the Pacific. Witness his arrival in Tahiti for the 1769 Transit of Venus, his encounters with Polynesian culture, and his groundbreaking exploration of New Zealand’s coasts. A journey of navigation, discovery, and first contact unfolds.

Order:
  1. 17 January 1769

    Proof of Cannibalism Among the Natives

    Light Airs, Calm and pleasant weather. P.M., righted ship and got the other Side ready for heeling out, and in the Evening Haul’d the Sean and caught a few fish.

    While this was doing some of us went in the pinnace into another Cove, not far from where the Ship lays; in going thither we meet with a Woman floating upon the Water, who to all appearance had not been dead many days. Soon after we landed we meet with 2 or 3 of the Natives who not long before must have been regaling themselves upon human flesh, for I got from one of them the bone of the Fore arm of a Man or Woman which was quite fresh, and the flesh had been but lately picked off, which they told us they had eat.

    They gave us to understand that but a few days before they had taken, Kill’d, and Eat a Boats Crew of their Enemies or strangers, for I believe they look upon all strangers as Enemies. From what we could learn the woman we had seen floating upon the Water was in this Boat and had been drowned in the fray. There was not one of us that had the least doubt but what these people were cannibals; but the finding this bone with part of the sinews fresh upon it was a stronger proof than any we had yet met with.

    In order to be fully satisfied of the truth of what they had told us, we told one of them that it was not the bone of a man, but that of a dog; but he, with great fervency, took hold of his Fore Arm, and told us again that it was that bone. To convince us that they had eat the flesh he took hold of the flesh of his own Arm with his teeth and made Signs of Eating.

    A.M., Careen’d, Scrub’d, and pay’d the Starboard side of the Ship; while this was doing some of the Natives came alongside seemingly only to look at us. There was a woman among them who had her Arms, thighs, and Legs cut in several place’s; this was done by way of Mourning for her Husband who had very lately been Kill’d and Eat by some of their Enemies as they told us and pointed towards the place where it was done, which lay somewhere to the Eastward. Mr. Banks got from one of them a Bone of the fore Arm, much in the same state as the one before mentioned; and to show us that they eat the flesh, they bit and Naw’d the bone and draw’d it through their Mouths, and this in such a manner as plainly Shew’d that the flesh to them was a Dainty Bit.

  2. 25 January 1769

    Ship Maintenance and Gathering Supplies

    Winds at North West, a Gentle breeze and fair weather. P.M. the Long boat having return’d with a Load of Grass, she was employ’d bringing on board Wood and Water, and the Caulkers having finished Caulking the Ship’s sides (a thing they have been employ’d upon ever since we came here), they were pay’d with Tar. Early in the A.M. the Long boat was sent again for Grass, and return’d at Noon with a Load.

  3. 16 June 1769

    Waiting for Calmer Weather to Enter the Harbour

    Strong gales at South-East, and cloudy, hazy weather, with showers of rain. At 6 o’clock in the A.M. it moderated a little, and we hove short, intending to get under sail, but were obliged to desist and veer away again.

    Some people were seen ashore today.

  4. 18 June 1769

    Moon Eclipse Observed

    Sunday, 18th. Variable winds and Clear weather. This Night was observed the Moon totally Eclipsed.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  5. 19 June 1769

    Twelve lashes for James Tunley

    June Monday, 19th. Punished James Tunley with 12 lashes for taking Rum out of the Cask on the Quarter Deck.

  6. 20 June 1769

    Powder Ashore and Obariea’s Visit

    Tuesday, 20th. Got all the Powder aShore to Air, all of which we found in a bad Condition, and the Gunner informs me that it was very little better when it came first on board. Last Night Obariea made us a visit, whom we have not seen for some time.

    We were told of her coming, and that she would bring with her some of the Stol’n things, which we gave Credit to because we know’d several of them were in her possession; but we were surprised to find this Woman put herself wholy in our power, and not bring with her one Article of what we had lost. The Excuse she made was that her Gallant, a man that used to be along with her, did Steal them, and she had beat him and turned him away, but she was so Sencible of her own Guilt that she was ready to drop down through fear, and yet she had resolution Enough to insist upon Sleeping in Mr. Banks’s Tent all Night, and was with difficulty prevailed upon to go to her canoe, altho no one took the least notice of her.

    In the morning she brought her Canoe, with everything she had, to the Gate of the Fort, after which we could not help admiring her for her Courage and the Confidence she seem’d to place in us, and thought that we could do no less than to receive her into favour, and except the Present she had brought us, which consisted of a Hog, a Dog, some Bread Fruit and Plantains.

  7. 21 June 1769

    Visit from Oamo and the Young Heir

    Wednesday, 21st. Employed drying the Powder, or getting on board Wood, Water, etc. Confined Robert Anderson, Seaman, for refusing to obey the orders of the Mate when at work in the Hold. This morning a Chief, whose Name is Oamo, and one we had not seen before, came to the Fort. There came with him a Boy about 7 Years of Age and a Young Woman of about 18 or 20.

    At the Time of their coming Obariea and several others were in the fort. They went out to meet them, having first uncovered their Heads and Bodies as low as their Waists; and the same thing was done by all those that were on the outside of the Fort. As we looked upon this as a Ceremonial respect, and had not seen it paid to any one before, we thought that this Oamo must be some extraordinary person, and wondered to see so little notice taken of him after the Ceremony was over.

    The Young woman that came along with him could not be prevailed upon to come into the Fort, and the Boy was Carried upon a Man’s back, altho’ he was as able to walk as the Man who carried him. This Lead us to inquire who they were; and we was informed that the Boy was Heir Apparent to the Sovereignty of the Island, and the Young Woman was his Sister, and as such the respect was paid them which was due to no one else except the Arreedehi, which was not Tootaha, from what we could learn, but some other person who we had not seen, or like to do, for they say that he is no Friend of ours, and therefore will not come near us.

    The Young Boy above mentioned is son to Oamo by Obariea, but Oamo and Obariea do not at this time live together as Man and Wife, he not being able to endure with her troublesome disposition. I mention this because it shows that seperation in the Marriage state is not unknown to these people.* (* See note Notes on Tahiti below.)

  8. 22 June 1769

    Released from confinement

    June Thursday, 22nd. This morning I released Robert Anderson from Confinement at the intercession of the Master and a promise of behaving better for the future.

  9. 23 June 1769

    Emanuel Parreyra missing

    June Friday, 23rd. This morning Emanuel Parreyra, a Portugue, was Missing, and I had some reason to think that he was gone with an intent to stay here. It was not long before I was informed that he was at Apparra with Tootaha. The Man who gave us this information was one of Tootaha’s Servants.

    He was Offer’d a Hatchet if he would go to Apparra and bring him to us. This was perhaps the very thing he came for, for he immediately set out and return’d with the Man in the Evening. The man said in his defence that as he was going to the Boat to go on board last night, he was taken away by force by 3 Men.

    Upon enquiring farther into this matter I found it to be so, and that Tootaha wanted to have kept him, only that he was perswaided to the contrary, or perhaps he thought that the Hatchet he would get by returning him would do him more service than the Man.

  10. 24 June 1769

    Nothing remarkable

    June Saturday, 24th, Sunday, 25th. Nothing remarkable.

  11. 25 June 1769

    Nothing remarkable

    June Saturday, 24th, Sunday, 25th. Nothing remarkable.

  12. 26 June 1769

    Coastal Exploration to the Isthmus

     

    Monday, 26th. Very early this morning I set out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, with an intent to make the Circuit of the Island in order to Examine and draw a Sketch of the Coast and Harbours thereof. We took our rout to the Eastward, and this night reached the Isthmus, which is a low neck of Land running across the Island, which divides it into two districts or Governments wholly independent of each other as we was informed.

    The first thing we saw which struck our attention in this day’s rout was a small Pig that had not been roasted above a Day or 2 laid upon one of their Altars near to a place where lay the Body or Bones of a Dead Person. This Pig must have been put their as an offering to their God, but on what account we know not.

    The Coast from Royal Bay trends East by South and East-South-East 10 miles South by East and South 11 miles to the Isthmus. In the first direction the Shore is mostly open to the Sea, but in the last it is cover’d by reefs of rocks; these forms several good Harbours, wherein are safe Anchorage for Shipping in 16, 18, 20, and 24 fathoms, with other Conveniences.

    It was in one of these Harbours the Spanish Ships before mentioned lay; the Natives shew’d us the place where they Pitched their Tent and the Brook they water’d at, otherways there was not the least signs of Shipping having been there.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  13. 27 June 1769

    Exploration of the Southeast Coast and Tiarreboo

    Tuesday, 27th. Winds Easterly and fine weather. It was late last night before we reached the Isthmus, and all the Observations I could make this morning was that it appeared to be a Marshey flatt of about 2 miles in Extent aCross which the Natives Haul their Canoes partly by land and partly by water. From the Isthmus the land trends East Southerly near 3 Leagues, to the South-East point of the Great Bay which lies before the Isthmus.

    On the west side of this point is a Bay called Ohitepepa, which is in many respects similar to Royal Bay, and is situated in every bit as fertile and populous part of the Island. There are other places formed by the Reefs that lay along the Shore between this and the Isthmus, where Shipping can lay in perfect security. The Land then trends South-East and South to the South-East part of the Island, which is near 3 Leagues, and covered all the way by a Reef of Rocks, but no Harbour.

    We took up our Quarters at the East part of the Island, being conducted thither by a Young Chief we had Often seen on board the Ship, and the next morning proceeded round the South-East point of the Island, part of which is not cover’d by any reef, but lies wholy open to the Sea and here the Hills rise directly from the Shore. At the Southernmost part of the Island the Shore is again cover’d by a Reef, and there forms a very good Harbour, and the land about it very fertile.

    At this place we saw a Goose and a Turkey left at Royal Bay by the Dolphin; they were in possession of a Chief who came along with us in the Boat, and remain’d with us the remainder of the day, and conducted us over the Shoals we here meet with; and for this piece of service we lent him a Cloak to Sleep in in the night, but we had not been laid down above 10 minutes before he thought proper to move off with it, but both Mr. Banks and I pursued him so close that he was obliged to relinquish his prize, and we saw no more of him.

    When we returned to our Lodging we found the House, in which were not less than 2 or 300 people when we went away, intirely deserted, so that we had one of the Largest and best houses on the Island wholy to ourselves; but when they found that we meant them no harm the Chief and his Wife with some others came and Slept by us the remainder of the night.

    This place is situated on the South-West side of Tiarreboo,* (* Taiarapu.) the South-East district of the Island, and about 5 miles South-East from the Isthmus. Here is a large, safe, and Commodious Harbour, inferior to none on the whole Island, and the land about it Rich in Produce.

    We found that the people of this district had had little or no communication with us, yet we was everywhere well received by them. We found all this part of the Island very fertile and the Natives numerous, and had a great many large Double Canoes built and Ornamented uniformly. They were all halled ashore, and appeared to be going to decay for want of use.

    Their Mories or Burial places stood generally upon these points of land that projected into the Sea, and were both better built and Ornamented than those about Royal Bay–Tootaha’s excepted. In general this district appear’d to be in a more flourishing state than the other, although it is not above one fourth part as big and cannot contain nothing near the Number of inhabitants.

  14. 29 June 1769

    Survey of Opooreonoo and the Great Morie

    Thursday, 29th. Squally weather with Showers of rain. This morning we left Tiaraboo and entered upon that of Opooreonoo, the North-West district of the Island. The first thing we met with worthy of note was at one of their Mories, where lay the scull bones of 26 Hogs and 6 Dogs. These all lay near to and under one of their Altars.

    These Animals must have been offer’d as a Sacrifice to their Gods either all at once or at different times, but on what account we could not learn. The next day we met with an Effigy or Figure of a Man made of Basket work and covered with white and Black feathers placed in such order as to represent the Colour of their Hair and Skins when Tattow’d or painted. It was 7 1/2 feet high and the whole made in due proportion; on its head were 4 Nobs not unlike the stumps of Large Horns–3 stood in front and one behind.

    We were not able to learn what use they made of this Monster; it did not at all appear to us that they paid it the least Homage as a God: they were not the least Scrupulous of letting us examine every part of it. I am inclinable to think that it is only used by way of diversion at their Hevas or public entertainments, as Punch is in a Puppet show.* (* Note by Cook in Admiralty copy: “Tupia informs us that this is a representation of one of the Second rank of Eatuas or Gods, called Mauwi, who inhabited the Earth upon the Creation of man. He is represented as an immense Giant who had seven heads, and was indued with immense strength and abilities. Many absurd stories are told of his Feats by Tupia.”)

    We next passed through a Harbour, which is the only one on the south side of Opooreonoo fit for Shipping. It is situated about 5 Miles to the Westward of the Isthmus between 2 Small Islands that lay near the shore and a Mile from each other. In this Harbour is 11 and 12 fathoms of water and good Anchorage. About a League and a half to the Westward of this Harbour is the Morie of Oamo or Oberia, for some told us it belong’d to the one and some to the other; it far Exceeds every thing of this Kind upon the whole Island.

    It is a long square of Stonework built Pyramidically; its base is 267 feet by 87 feet; at the Top it is 250 feet by 8 feet. It is built in the same manner as we do steps leading up to a Sun Dial or fountain erected in the Middle of a Square where there is a flite of steps on each side. In this building there are 11 of such steps; each step is about 4 feet in height and the breadth 4 feet 7 inches, but they decreased both in height and breadth from the bottom to the Top.

    On the middle of the Top stood the Image of a Bird carved in Wood, near it lay the broken one of a Fish carved in stone. There was no hollow or Cavity in the inside, the whole being fill’d up with stones. The outside was faced partly with hewn stones and partly with others, and these were placed in such a manner as to look very agreeable to the Eye. Some of the hewn stones were 4 feet 7 inches by 2 feet 4 inches and 15 inches thick, and had been squared and Polished with some sort of an Edge Tool.

    On the East side was enclosed with a stone wall a piece of ground in form of a square, 360 feet by 354, in this was growing several Cypress trees and Plantains. Round about this Morie was several smaller ones all going to decay, and on the Beach between them and the Sea lay scatter’d up and down a great quantity of human bones. Not far from the Great Morie was 2 or 3 pretty large Altars, where lay the Scull bones of some Hogs and dogs. This Monument stands on the south side of Opooreonoo, upon a low point of land about 100 Yards from the Sea.* (* On map Morai-no te Oamo.)

    It appeared to have been built many Years, and was in a State of decay, as most of their Mories are. From this it would seem that this Island hath been in a more Flourishing state than it is at present, or that Religious Customs are (like most other Nations) by these people less observed. We took up our Quarters near this Morie for the night, and early in the Morning proceeded on our rout, and without meeting with anything remarkable, got on board the Ship on Saturday, the 1st of July, having made the Circuit of the whole Island, which I Estimated at something more than 30 Leagues.* (* A remarkably close estimate.)

    The Plan or Sketch which I have drawn, altho’ it cannot be very accurate, yet it will be found sufficient to point out the Situation of the different Bays and Harbours and the true figure of the Island, and I believe is without any Material error. For the first 2 or 3 days we was out upon this excursion we labour’d under some difficulty for want of Provisions–particularly bread–an Article we took but little of with us–not doubting that we should get bread fruit, more than sufficient for a Boat’s Crew at every place we went to, but, on the Contrary, we found the season for that fruit wholy over, and not one to be seen on the Trees, and all other fruit and roots were scarce.

    The Natives live now on Sour paist–which is made from bread fruit–and some bread fruit and plantains that they get from the Mountains where the season is Later, and on a Nut not unlike a chessnut which are now in Perfection; but all these Articles are at present very scarce, and therefore it is no wonder that the Natives have not supply’d us with these things of Late. [At Tahiti.]

    Upon my return to the Ship I found that the Provisions had been all examined and the Water got on board, amounting to 65 Tons. I now determind to get everything off from the Shore and leave the Place as soon as possible. The getting the several Articles on board, and Scraping and paying the Ship’s side, took us up the following Week without anything remarkable happening until

  15. 9 July 1769

    Two Marines Missing from the Fort

    Sunday, July 9th. When, sometime in the Middle Watch, Clement Webb and Saml. Gibson, both Marines and young Men, found means to get away from the Fort (which was now no hard matter to do) and in the morning were not to be found.

    As it was known to everybody that all hands were to go on board on the Monday morning, and that the ship would sail in a day or two, there was reason to think that these 2 Men intended to stay behind. However I was willing to stay one day to see if they would return before I took any step to find them.

  16. 10 July 1769

    The Search for the Missing Marines

    July Monday, 10th. The 2 Marines not returning this morning, I began to enquire after them, and was inform’d by some of the Natives that they were gone to the Mountains, and that they had got each of them a Wife and would not return; but at the same time no one would give us any certain intelligence where they were, upon which a resolution was taken to seize upon as many of the Chiefs as we could. This was thought to be the readiest method to induce the other natives to produce the 2 Men.

    We had in our custody Obariea, Toobouratomita, and 2 other Chiefs, but that I know’d Tootaha would have more weight with the Natives than all these put together, I dispatched Lieutenant Hicks away in the Pinnace to the place where Tootaha was, to endeavour to decoy him into the Boat and bring him on board, which Mr. Hicks performed without the least disturbance.

    We had no sooner taken the other Chiefs into Custody in Mr. Banks’s Tent than they became as desirous of having the Men brought back has they were before of keeping them, and only desir’d that one of our people might be sent with some of theirs for them. Accordingly, I sent a petty officer and the Corporal of Marines with 3 or 4 of their People, not doubting but they would return with the 2 Men in the evening; but they not coming as soon as I expected, I took all the Chiefs on board the ship for greater safety.

    About 9 o’Clock in the evening Webb, the Marine, was brought in by some of the natives and sent on board. He informed me that the Petty Officer and Corporal that had been sent in quest of them were disarm’d and seiz’d upon by the natives, and that Gibson was with them.

    Immediately upon getting this information I dispatch’d Mr. Hicks away in the Long boat with a strong party of men to rescue them. But before he went, Tootaha and the other Chiefs was made to understand that they must send some of their People with Mr. Hicks to shew him the place where our men were, and at the same time to send orders for their immediate releasement, for if any harm came to the men they (the Chiefs) would suffer for it.

    I believe at this time they wished as much to see the Men return in safety as I did, for the guides conducted Mr. Hicks to the place before daylight, and he recovered the men without the least opposition, and return’d with them about 7 o’Clock in the morning.

  17. 11 July 1769

    Resolving the Conflict and Departing

    July Tuesday, 11th. I then told the Chiefs that there remain’d nothing more to be done to regain their liberty but to deliver up the Arms the People had taken from the Petty Officer and Corporal, and these were brought on board in less than half an Hour, and then I sent them all on shore.

    They made but a short stay with our people there before they went away, and most of the natives with them; but they first wanted to give us 4 Hogs. These we refused to accept of them, as they would take nothing in return.

    Thus, we are likely to leave these people in disgust with our behaviour towards them, owing wholly to the folly of 2 of our men, for it does not appear that the natives had any hand in enticing them away, and therefore were not the first aggressors. However, it is very certain that had we not taken this step we never should have recovered them.

    The Petty Officer whom I sent in quest of the deserters told me that the Natives would give him no intelligence where they were, nor those that went along with him, but, on the contrary, grew very troublesome. As they were returning in the evening, they were suddenly seized upon by a number of Armed men that had hid themselves in the wood for that purpose.

    This was after Tootaha had been seized upon by us, so that they did this by way of retaliation in order to recover their Chief; but this method did not meet with the approbation of them all. A great many condemn’d these proceedings and were for having them set at liberty, while others were for keeping them until Tootaha was releas’d.

    The dispute went so far that they came from words to blows, and our people were several times very near being set at liberty; but at last, the party for keeping them prevailed. However, as they had still some friends, no insult was offer’d them.

    A little while after, they brought Webb and Gibson, the two deserters, to them as Prisoners likewise; but at last they agreed that Webb should be sent to inform us where the others were.

    When I came to examine these 2 Men touching the reasons that induced them to go away, it appeared that an acquaintance they had contracted with 2 Girls, and to whom they had strongly attached themselves, was the Sole reason of their attempting to stay behind.

    Yesterday, we weighed the small Bower Anchor, the Stock of which was so much eaten by the worms as to break in heaving up, and to-day we hove up the best Bower, and found the Stock in the very same Condition.

    This day, we got everything off from the Shore, and to-night everybody lays on board.

  18. 12 July 1769

    Getting the ship ready for the sea

    July Wednesday, 12th. The Carpenter employ’d in stocking the Anchors and the Seamen in getting the Ship ready for Sea. This morning we found the Staves of the Cask the Natives stole from us some time ago laying at the Watering place; but they had been Sencible enough to keep the Iron Hoops, and only return what to them was of no use.

  19. 13 July 1769

    Departure from Tahiti after the Transit Observations

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Thursday, 13th. Winds Easterly, a light breeze. This morning we was visited by Obariea and several others of our acquaintance, a thing we did not expect after what had hapned but 2 days ago; but this was in some measures owing to Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself going to Apparralast night, where we so far convinc’d them of our Friendly disposition that several of them were in tears at our coming away.

    Between 11 and 12o’Clock we got under Sail, and took our final leave of these People, after a stay of just three Months, the most part of which time we have been upon good terms with them. Some few differences have now and then hapned owing partly to the want of rightly understanding each other, and partly to their natural thievish disposition, which we could not at all times bear with or guard against; but these have been attended with no ill consequence to either side except the first, in which one of them waskill’d, and this I was very sorry for, because from what had hapned to them by the Dolphin I thought it would have been no hard matter to have got and keep a footing with them without bloodshed.

    For some time before we left this Island several of the Natives were daily offering themselves to go away with us; and as it was thought they must be of use to us in our future discoveries we resolved to bring away one whose name is Tupia, a Chief and a Priest. This man had been with us most part of the time we had been upon the Island, which gave us an opportunity to know something of him. We found him to be a very intelligent person, and to know more of the Geography of the Islands situated in these Seas, their produce, and the religion, laws, and Customs of the inhabitants, than any one we hadmet with, and was the likeliest person to answer our Purpose. For thesereasons, and at the request of Mr. Banks, I received him on board,together with a young Boy, his Servant.

    For the first two Months we were at this Island the Natives supplied us with as much Bread fruit, Cocoa Nuts, etc., as we could well dispence with, and now and then a few Hogs, but of these hardly sufficient to give the Ship’s company one and sometimes two fresh Meals a week.

    As to Fowls, I did not see above 3dozen upon the whole Island, and fish they seldom would part with; but during the last Month we got little refreshment of any sort. The detaining of their Canoes broke off Trade at that time, and it never after was begun again with any Spirit. However, it was not wholy owing to this, but to a Scarcity. The Season for Bread fruit was wholy over, and what other Fruits they had were hardly sufficient for themselves; at least, they did not care to part with them. All sorts of Fruits we purchased with Beads and Nails, not less than 40-penny, for a nail under that size was of no value; but we could not get a Hog above 10 or 12pounds weight for anything less than a Hatchet, not but that they set great value upon Spike Nails; but, as this was an Article many in the Ship are provided with, the Women soon found a much easier way at coming at them than by bringing Provisions.

    Our Traffick with this people was carried on with as much Order as in the best regulated Market in Europe. It was managed ashore chiefly by Mr. Banks, who took uncommon Pains to procure from the Natives every kind of refreshment that was to be got. Axes, Hatchets, Spikes, large Nails, looking Glasses, Knives, and Beadsare all highly valued by this People, and nothing more is wanting to Traffick with them for everything they have to dispose of. They are likewise very fond of fine Linnen Cloth, both White and Printed, but an Axe worth half a Crown will fetch more than a Piece of Cloth worth Twenty Shillings.

    Upon our arrival at Batavia we had certain information that the two ships that were at George’s Island some time before our arrival there were both French ships.*”

    (* In Admiralty copy.)

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), July 13, 1769 :

    “On the next morning, Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was very early crouded with our friends, and surrounded by a multitude of canoes, which were filled with the natives of an inferior class. Between eleven and twelve we weighed anchor, and as soon as the ship was under sail, the Indians on board took their leaves, and wept, with a decent and silent sorrow, in which there was something very striking and tender: the people in the canoes, on the contrary, seemed to vie with each other in the loudness of their lamentations, which we considered rather as affectation than grief. Tupia sustained himself in this scene with a firmness and resolution truly admirable: he wept indeed, but the effort that he made to conceal his tears, concurred, with them, to do him honour. He sent his last present, a shirt, by Otheothea, to Potomai, Tootahah’s favourite mistress, and then went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, waving to the canoes as long as they continued in sight.

    Thus we took leave of Otaheite, and its inhabitants, after a stay of just three months; for much the greater part of the time we lived together in the most cordial friendship, and a perpetual reciprocation of good offices. The accidental differences which now and then happened, could not be more sincerely regretted on their part than they were on ours: the principal causes were such as necessarily resulted from our situation and circumstances, in conjunction with the infirmities of human nature, from our not being able perfectly to understand each other, and from the disposition of the inhabitants to theft, which we could not at all times bear with or prevent.

    They had not, however, except in one instance, been attended with any fatal consequence; and to that accident were owing the measures that I took to prevent others of the same kind. I hoped, indeed, to have availed myself of the impression which had been made upon them by the lives that had been sacrificed in their contest with the Dolphin, so as that the intercourse between us should have been carried on wholly without bloodshed; and by this hope all my measures were directed during the whole of my continuance at the island, and I sincerely wish, that whoever shall next visit it, may be still more fortunate.

    Our traffick here was carried on with as much order as in the best regulated market in Europe. It was managed principally by Mr. Banks, who was indefatigable in procuring provision and refreshments while they were to be had; but during the latter part of our time they became scarce, partly by the increased consumption at the fort and ship, and partly by the coming on of the season in which cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit fail. All kind of fruit we purchased for beads and nails, but no nails less than fortypenny were current: after a very short time we could never get a pig of more than ten or twelve pounds, for less than a hatchet; because, though these people set a high value upon spike nails, yet these being an article with which many people in the ship were provided, the women found a much more easy way of procuring them than by bringing down provisions.

    The best articles for traffick here are axes, hatchets, spikes, large nails, looking-glasses, knives, and beads, for some of which, every thing that the natives have may be procured. They are indeed fond of fine linen cloth, both white and printed; but an ax worth half a crown, will fetch more than a piece of cloth worth twenty shillings.”

    Banks’s Journal, July 13, 1769:

    “About 10 this morn saild From Otahite leaving our freinds Some of the mat least I realy beleive personaly sorry for our departure, not wisth standing the confinement of the day before yesterday had frigh[t] ned and affronted them as much as possible, yet our nearest freinds came on board at this Critical time except only Tubourai and Tamio. We had Oborea, Otheothea, Tayoa, Nuna, Tuanna Matte, Potattou, Polotheara etc. on board when the anchor was weighd; they took their leaves tenderly enough, not without plenty of tears tho intirely without that clamourous weeping made use of by the other Indians, several boats of whoom were about the ship shouting out their lamentations, as vyeing with each other not who should cry most but who should cry loudest–a custom we had often condemned in conversation with our particular freinds as savouring more of affected than real greif.

    Tupia who after all his struggles stood firm at last in his resolution of a companying us parted with a few heartfelt tears, so I judge them to have been by the Efforts I saw him make use of to hide them. He sent by Otheothea his last present, a shirt to Potamai, Dootahah’s  favourite mistress. He and I went then to the topmast head where we stood a longtime waving to the Canoes as they went off, after which he came down and shewd no farther signs of seriousness or concern.

    In the Evening Tethuroa in sight; before night it appears clearly to be avery low Island and but small, which with Tupias declaring that there were no fixd inhabitants upon it only the people of Otahite who went there for a few days to fish, determind us to content ourselves with what we had seen and stand on in search of Urietea, which he describd to be a well peopled Island as large as Otahite.”

     

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  20. 14 July 1769

    Departure and Discovery of Tethuroa

    FRIDAY, July 14th. Gentle breezes at North-East and clear weather. I have before made mention of our departure from Royal Bay on the preceding forenoon, and likewise that I had determined to run down to Huaheine and Ulietea (Raiatea) before we stood to the Southward.

    But having discovered, from the Hills of George’s Island, an island laying to the Northward, we first stood that way to take a nearer view of it. This island is called Tethuroa (Tetiaroa). It lies North 1/2 West, distant 8 leagues from Point Venus, and is a small, low, uninhabited island, frequented by the people of George’s Island for fish, with which it is said to abound.

    At 6 A.M., the westernmost part of York Island bore South-East 1/2 South, and the body of George’s Island East 1/2 South. Punished the two marines who attempted to desert from us at George’s Island with 2 dozen lashes each, and then released them from confinement.

    At noon, the body of York Island (Eimeo, or Murea) bore East by South 1/2 South, Royal Bay South 70 degrees 45 minutes East, distant 61 miles. An island, which we took to be Saunder’s Island, discovered by Captain Wallace (called by the natives Topoamanan Tubuai Manu), bore South-South-West. Latitude observed, 17 degrees 9 minutes South. Saw land bearing North-West 1/2 West, which Tupia calls the Island of Huaheine.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  21. 15 July 1769

    Variable weather

    Saturday, 15th. Light airs and Variable between the North and West-South-West. Clear weather. At 6 p.m. York Island bore South-East, and Huaheine West-North-West, and at 7 a.m. it bore West. Latitude observed at Noon 16 degrees 50 minutes South. Royal Bay South 37 degrees 30 minutes East, distant 22 Leagues.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  22. 16 July 1769

    Arrival at Huaheine

    Sunday, 16th. Winds at South and South-South-East. A Gentle Breeze, with some few showers of rain. At 6 p.m. the Island of Huaheine West 1/2 South, distant 7 or 8 leagues. At 8 a.m., being close in with the North-West part of the Island, sounded, but had no ground with 80 fathoms.

    Some of the Natives came off to the Ship, but they were very shy of coming near until they discover’d Tupia; but after that they came on board without hesitation. Among those who came on board was the King of the Island, whose name is Oree. He had not been long on board before he and I exchanged Names, and we afterwards address’d each other accordingly.* (* The Tahitians called Cook Tootee, which was their idea of the sound of his name, with a vowel termination, none of their words ending in a consonant.)

    At noon the North end of the Island bore South by East 1/2 East, distant 72 Leagues. Latitude observed, 16 degrees 40 minutes South. Three other Islands in sight, namely, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola,* (* Tahaa and Borabora.) so called by the Natives.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  23. 17 July 1769

    Peace Ceremony at Owarhe

    Monday, 17th. Winds Southerly, fine pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. anchored in a small Harbour on the West side of the Island called by the Natives Owarhe, in 18 fathoms water, clear ground, and secure from all winds. Soon after, I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Dr. Monkhouse, Tupia, the King of the Island, and some others of the Natives, who had been on board since the morning.

    The Moment we landed Tupia stripped himself as low as his waist, and desir’d Mr. Monkhouse to do the same. He then sat down before a great number of the Natives that were collected together in a large Shed or House, the rest of us, by his own desire, standing behind; he then begun a long speach or prayer, which lasted near a Quarter of an Hour, and in the Course of this Speech presented to the People two Handkerchiefs, a black silk Neckcloth, some beads, and two very small bunches of Feathers. These things he had before provided for that purpose.

    At the same time two Chiefs spoke on the other side in answer to Tupia, as I suppose, in behalf of the People, and presented us with some young Plantains plants, and 2 small bunches of Feathers. These were by Tupia order’d to be carried on board the Ship. After the Peace was thus concluded and ratified, every one was at liberty to go where he pleased, and the first thing Tupia did was to go and pay his Oblations at one of the Mories.

    This seem’d to be a common ceremony with this people, and I suppose always perform’d upon landing on each other’s Territories in a peaceable manner. It further appear’d that the things which Tupia gave away was for the God of this People, as they gave us a Hog and some Cocoanuts for our God, and thus they have certainly drawn us in to commit sacriledge, for the Hog hath already received sentence of Death, and is to be dissected to-morrow.

    A.M. I set about Surveying the Island, and Dr. Monkhouse, with some hands, went ashore to Trade with the Natives, while the Long boat was employ’d compleating our Water.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  24. 18 July 1769

    Clear weather

    Tuesday, 18th. Gentle breezes at South and South-South-West. Clear weather. The Trading party had no Success to-day. The Natives pretend that they have not had time to collect their provisions from the Differant parts of the Island, but that on the Morrow we should have some; and as I had not seen so much of the Island as I desir’d, I resolved to stay one day longer to see if anything was to be got.

  25. 19 July 1769

    Departure from Huaheine

    Wednesday, 19th. P.M. Variable light Airs and clear weather. The Trading party had better success to-day than Yesterday. A.M. a Gentle breeze at South-East. As it was known to the Natives that we intended to sail to-day, Oree, the Chief, and several more, came on board to take their leave of us.

    To the Chief was given a small plate on which was Stamp’d the following inscription–viz., “His Britannick Majesty’s Ship, Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook, Commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine.” This was accompanied with some Medals, or Counters, of the English Coins, struck 1761, together with some other Presents. All these, but more particularly the Plate, the Chief promised never to part with. This we thought would prove as lasting a Testimony of our having first discover’d this Island as any we could leave behind.

    After this was done they were dismissed, and we began to prepare to leave the place. But as that falls out on the following day, I shall conclude this with a Discription of the Island, which is situated in the Latitude of 16 degrees 43 minutes South, and Longitude 150 degrees 52 minutes West from Greenwich and North 58 degrees West, distance, 31 leagues, from King George’s Island, or Otaheite. It is about 7 Leagues in compass, and of a Hilly and uneven surface.

    It hath a safe and commodious Harbour, which lies on the West side, under the Northermost high land and within the North end of the Reef which lays along that side of the Island. Into this Harbour are 2 inlets, or openings in the Reef, about 1 1/2 Miles from each other. The Southermost is the Broadest, on the South side of which is a very small sandy Island. This Harbour is called by the Natives Ohwarhe.

    The produce of this Island is in all respects the same as King George’s Island, and the Manner and Customs of the inhabitants much the same, only that they are not addicted to Stealing; and with respect to colour they are rather fairer than the natives of George’s Island, and the whole more Uniformly of one Colour.

  26. 20 July 1769

    Arrival at Ulietea

    Thursday, 20th. Moderate breezes at East and East-North-East. Fair weather. At 1/2 past 2 p.m. weighed and made Sail for the Island of Ulietea, which lies South-West by West, Distance 7 or 8 leagues from Huaheine. At 1/2 past 6 we were within 3 Leagues of it, then shortened sail and stood off and on all night, and at daylight made Sail in shore.

    Soon after we discover’d an opening in the Reef that lies along this side of the Island, within which, Tupia said, was a good Harbour. Upon this I hoisted out the Pinnace, and sent the Master in to Examine it, who soon made the Signal for the Ship to follow.

    Accordingly we stood in and Anchor’d in 22 fathoms, soft ground. Soon after we Anchor’d some of the Natives came on board the Ship with very little invitation.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  27. 21 July 1769

    Taking Possession of Ulietea

    Friday, 21st. Winds variable, and dark, cloudy weather, with frequent Showers of rain. At 1 p.m. I landed in Company with Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen. The first thing done was the performing of Tupia’s ceremony in all respects as at Huaheine.

    I then hoisted an English jack, and took possession of the Island and those adjacent in the name of His Britannick Majesty, calling them by the same names as the natives do.

    A.M. sent the Master in the Long boat to examine the coast of the South part of the Island, and one of the Mates in the Yawl to sound the Harbour where the Ship lay, while I was employ’d in the Pinnace surveying the Northern part of the Island, and Mr. Monkhouse went ashore to trade with the Natives for such refreshments as were to be got.

  28. 22 July 1769

    Showers of rain

    Saturday, 22nd. P.M. the wind Variable with Showers of rain. A.M. strong Gales at South and hazey with rain, and which continued the most part of

  29. 23 July 1769

    Broke the ship loose

    Sunday, 23rd, in so much that I did not think it safe to break the Ship loose and put to sea as I intended.

  30. 24 July 1769

    Winds variable and fair weather

    Monday, 24th. Winds variable from South-South-East to North-East. At 8 a.m. got under sail and plyed to the Northward within the Reef, in order to go out at the Northern Channell, it being the broadest; but being little wind and meeting with Shoals we had not before discovered, we turned down but slowly.

  31. 25 July 1769

    Description of Raiatea Harbour

    Tuesday, 25th. First part, little wind at North-East; in the night calm, A.M. a fresh breeze at West-North-West, fair weather. At 3 p.m. Anchor’d in 22 fathoms Muddy bottom, the North Channell open bearing North-East 1/2 East. At 5 a.m. a breeze sprung up at North-West, weighed and put to Sea, and hauled to the Northward in order to take a View of the Island and Ataha and Bolabola; but before I proceed farther, I shall describe the Harbour we have been in.* (* It has no particular name, but extends the whole of the eastern side of Raiatea.)

    This Harbour, taken in its greatest Extent, is capable of holding any number of Shipping in perfect security, as it extends almost the whole length of this side of the Island, and is defended from the Sea by a reef of Coral rocks. The Southermost opening* (* Teava Moa Pass.) in this reef or Channell into the Harbour, which is not more than a Cable’s length wide, is off the Eastermost point of the Island, and may be known by a small woody Island, which lies a little to the South-East of it. Between 3 and 4 miles North-West from this Island lies 2 other small Islands, and in the same direction as the reef, of which they are a part.

    Between these 2 Islands is another Channell* (* Iriru Pass.) into the Harbour that is a full Quarter of a Mile broad; still further to the North-West are some other small Islands, where, I am informed, is another small inlet, but this I did not see; but, as to the other 2, we enter’d the Harbour by the one and came out by the other.

    The principal refreshments we have got here consists in Plantains, Cocoa nuts, some Yams and a few Hogs and fowls. This side of the Island is neither Populous nor Rich in Produce, if compared to George’s Island, or even Huaheine; however, here is no want of refreshments for a ship who may put in here and stay but a short time; and wood and water may be got everywhere, tho’ the latter is not very convenient to come at.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  32. 26 July 1769

    Between islands

    Wednesday, 26th. Winds at West by North and West by South, but very Variable towards the Latter part. At 4 p.m. the North End of Ulietea South 75 degrees West, distance 2 leagues, and the south end of Otaha North 77 degrees West. About a League to the Northward of the South end of Otaha, on the East side of the Island, a mile or more from the Shore, lies 2 Small Islands. Between these Islands Tupia says there is a Channell into a very good harbour which lies within the Reef and it had all the appearance of such. Keept plying to Windward all night without getting any ground. At Noon the Peak on Bolabola West by South. Latitude observed 16 degrees 26 minutes South.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  33. 27 July 1769

    The island called Tubai

    Thursday, 27th. Variable light Airs of wind in the South-West Quarter, and fair weather. Seeing that there is a broad Channell between Otaha and Bolabola, I intend to go through that way and not run to the Northward of all; but as the wind is right an end, and very Variable withall, we get little or no ground. Between 5 and 6 o’Clock p.m., as we were standing to the Northward, we discover’d a small low Island lying North by West or North-North-West distant 4 or 5 Leagues from Bolabola. This Island is called Tubai. Tupia says it produces nothing but a few Cocoa Nuts, that there are only 3 families live upon it, but that the people from these Islands resort thither to Catch fish. At Noon the peak of Bolabola bore North 25 degrees West, and the north end of Otaha North 80 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 38 minutes South.

  34. 28 July 1769

    The entrance of the harbour

    Friday, 28th. Little wind and Variable between the South-West and North-West. At 6 a.m., being near the Entrance of the Harbour which lies on the East side of Otaha before mentioned,* (* Hamene Bay.) and finding that it might be examin’d without loosing time, I sent away the Master in the Long boat, with orders to sound the Harbour, and if the wind did not shift in our favour to land upon the Island and to Traffick with the Natives for such refreshments as were to be got. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went along with him.

  35. 29 July 1769

    Off the Island of Bolabola

    Saturday, 29th. Little wind and Variable. Kept plying on and off this day, waiting for the return of the Long boat. At 1/2 past 5 not seeing anything of her, fir’d a Gun for her to return, and as soon as it was dark hoisted a light.

    At 1/2 past 8 heard the report of a musquet, which we answered with a Gun; and soon after the Boat came on board with 3 small Hogs, a few Fowls, and a large Quantity of Plantains, and some Yams. They found the Natives very Sociable and ready to part with anything they had, and the Harbour safe and Commodious, with a good Anchorage in 25, 20, and 16 fathoms clear ground.

    As soon as the Boat was hoisted in we made Sail to the Northward, and at 8 o’Clock a.m. were close under the Peak of Bolabola, but as we could not weather the Island, we Tack’d and stood off until near Noon, then Tack’d again and stood to the South-West.

    At Noon the Peak of Bolabola bore South 75 degrees West; we were then distant from the Shore under it 2 or 3 miles, and from the Peak about 5 miles. Latitude observed 16 degrees 29 minutes South.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  36. 30 July 1769

    Sight of the Island Maurua

    Sunday, 30th. Wind in the South-East Quarter. At first a Gentle breeze, but afterwards freshned upon us. P.M. made several Trips before we could weather the South end of Bolabola, which at last we accomplished between 7 and 8 o’Clock, and stood off South-South-West until 12 at night, then Tack’d and stood in until 4 a.m., then stood off again; but meeting with a large swell from the Southward, against which the Ship made little or no way, at 8 we tack’d and stood in Shore again.

    At this time we discovered an Island which bore from us North 63 degrees West, distant about 8 Leagues: at the same time the Peak of Bolabola bore North 1/2 East, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. This Island Tupia calls Maurua, and according to his account it is but small, and surrounded by a Reef of Rocks, and hath no Harbour fit for Shipping.

    It is inhabited, and its produce is the same as the other Islands we have touched at. It riseth in a high round hill in the middle of the Island, which may be seen 10 Leagues. At noon the South end of Otaha bore North 80 degrees East, distance 4 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 39 minutes South.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  37. 31 July 1769

    Exploring Otaha

    Monday, 31st. Fresh Gales in the South-East Quarter, and close, cloudy weather. Plying to windward all this day, on the South-West side of Otaha, without gaining little or anything. In the middle watch was obliged to double reef our Topsails, but in the morning it fell moderate, and we crowded all the sail we could. At Noon the South end of Otaha bore East, distance 2 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 40 minutes South. Tupia told us there was a very good Harbour within the Reef which lies on this side of Otaha; but this Harbour I shall discribe in another place.

  38. 1 August 1769

    Returning Toward Ulietea

    Tuesday, August 1st. A fresh Gale at South-East the most part of this day. Keept plying to windward all the afternoon and night, and in the morning found ourselves nearly the length of the South end of Ulietea, and to windward of some Harbours that lay on the West side of this Island.

    Into one of them I intended to go with the Ship, in order to stop a Leak in the Powder room, which could not be easily done at Sea, and to take in more Ballast, as I found her too light to carry sail upon a wind.

    At Noon plying off one of the Harbour’s mouth, the wind being right out.

  39. 2 August 1769

    Anchoring at Rautoanui Harbour

    Wednesday, 2nd. Moderate breezes at South-East and East, with some Showers of Rain. At 3 p.m. anchor’d in the Entrance of the Channell leading into the Harbour* (* Rautoanui.) in 14 fathoms water; found a tide setting pretty strong out, which was the reason that we could not work in.

    Carried out the Kedge Anchor in order to warp into the Harbour, but after this was done we could not Trip the Bower Anchor with all the purchass we could make, and was therefore obliged to lay still all night.

    But in the morning we did it with Ease, and warped the Ship into a proper birth, and moor’d in 28 fathoms, a sandy bottom. A great many of the Natives came off to us both last night and this morning, and brought with them Hogs, Fowls, Plaintains, etc., which they parted with at a very easy rate.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  40. 3 August 1769

    Surveying and Taking on Ballast

    Thursday, 3rd. Winds from East-South-East to North-East; very Hot weather this afternoon. I went ashore to look for a place to get stones for Ballast, and a watering place, both of which I found very convenient.

    In the morning sent an Officer a Shore to Superintend the getting off the Ballast and Water, and I went in the Pinnace to the Northward to survey that part of the Island, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, while the Carpenters were employ’d on board stopping the Leaks of the Powder room and Foresail room.

  41. 4 August 1769

    Entertainment and Gifts from Opoony

    Friday, 4th. First and Latter parts, moderate breezes, at East-North-East; in the night, Calm, Hot, and sultry. In our rout to the Northward this afternoon we were entertained at one place with Musick and Dancing. The Musick consisted of 3 Drums, and the Dancing was mostly perform’d by 2 Young Women and one Man, and this seem’d to be their profession.

    The dress of the women was such as we had not seen before; it was neat, decent, and well chose, and in many respects not much unlike a European dress; only their Arms, Necks, and Shoulders were bare, and their headdress was the Tomow stuck with Flowers. They made very little use of their feet and Legs in Dancing, but one part or another of their bodies were in continual motion and in various postures, as standing, setting, and upon their Hands and knees, making strange Contorsions.

    Their Arms, hands, and Fingers they moved with great Agility and in a very Extraordinary manner, and altho’ they were very exact in observing the same motion in all their movements, yet neither their Musick or Dancing were at all Calculated to please a European. There were likewise some men, who acted a kind of a Farce; but this was so short that we could gather nothing from it, only that it shew’d that these People have a Notion of Dramatick performances, and some of our Gentlemen saw them act a Farce the next day, wherein was 4 Acts, and it seem’d to them to represent a War between the Bolabola men and those of Ulietea, wherein the former triumph’d over the latter; but what might help them to draw this Conclusion was the knowing that such a thing has not long ago hapned between these 2 People, and that the Bolabola men at present possess most of the Lands on this Island.

    This is their grand Dramatick Heiva, and I believe is occasionally performed in all the Islands. Upon my return to the Ship in the evening I found that they had got on board 20 Tuns of Ballast, and this I thought would be sufficient. In the morning we sent all our water Casks on shore, and got them all off full by Noon.

    This morning I received a present from Opoony, the Eare dehi of Bolabola, who at this time was upon this Island. It consisted of 3 Hogs, some pieces of Cloth, Plantains, Cocoa Nuts, etc. These were sent by his Servants, and I was told that he would come the next day himself.

  42. 5 August 1769

    Trading for Provisions Around the Island

    Saturday, 5th. This evening we bought as much Fish as the whole Ship’s Company could destroy while good. In the morning I sent the Master to the North End of the Island with the Long boat to Traffick with the Natives for Provisions, as they did not bring it to the Ship, as they had hitherto done.

    Myself, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went in the Pinnace to the Southern part of the Island, partly on the same account and partly to Examine that part of the Island. In our rout we passed thro’ 2 Harbours equally as good as the one in which the Ship lays, but the Country about them is poorer and but thinly inhabited.

    We got no one thing worth bringing home with us, but the Master succeeded something better.

  43. 6 August 1769

    A Visit from Opoony’s Messengers

    Sunday, 6th. Variable light Airs and fair weather. A.M. I sent the Master again to the Northward to procure refreshments, who return’d not unsuccessfull.

    Opoony, the Chief, sent some of his people this morning to me to get something in return for the present he sent the other day; he not choosing, as I suppose, to trust himself on board, or perhaps he thought the persons he sent (who were 3 very pretty young Girls) would succeed better than he should do.

    Be this as it may, they went away very well satisfied with what they got, altho’ I believe that they were disappointed in some things.

  44. 7 August 1769

    Meeting with King Opoony

    Monday, 7th. Variable light Airs. P.M. some Showers of rain. Being desirous to see King Opoony, we made a party this afternoon and I went ashore for that purpose, carrying along with us a small present. Upon our landing he did not receive us setting, as all the other Chiefs had hitherto done, or in any manner of Form; this we attributed to his Stupidity, for such he appeared to be.

    However, he gave me a Hog in return for the present I made him, and this was paying us full as great a Complement. Before we took our leave we let him know that we should go to Otaha in the morning in our Boats, and would be glad to have him along with us, and he accordingly promised to accompany us thither.

    Accordingly, very early in the morning, I set out with both Pinnace and Long boat for Otaha, and some of the Gentlemen along with me; and in our way called upon Opoony, who was in his Canoe ready to set out.

    As soon as we landed on Otaha I made him a present of a Axe; this I thought would induce him to incourage his Subjects to bring us such Provisions as we wanted, but I believe we had already got all they intended us, for after staying with him until Noon we were obliged to go away without geting any one thing.

  45. 8 August 1769

    Final Excursion Around the Island

    Tuesday, 8th. After leaving Opoony we proceeded towards the North point of the Island, and in our way pick’d up half a Dozen Hogs, as many Fowls, and some Plantains and Yams; and I had an opportunity to view and draw a Sketch of the Harbour which lies on this Side of the Island, and which was the only thing that induced me to make this Excursion.

    After it was dark we met with the Longboat, which I had in the morning dispatch’d to another part of the Island; and we now made the best of our way to the Ship and got on board about 10 at night.

    The Carpenter having finished stopping the Leaks about the Powder Room and Sailroom I now intend to sail as soon as ever the wind will permit us to get out of the Harbour.

  46. 9 August 1769

    Departure from Raiatea

    Wednesday, 9th. P.M. had a light breeze of wind at North; in the night had much rain. A.M. little wind and Variable, with some Showers of rain. At 11 a.m. a breeze of wind sprung up at East, which carried us out of the Harbour, and as soon as the Boats were hoisted in made Sail to the Southward.

    Since we have been about these Islands we have expended but little of our Sea Provisions, and have at this last place been very plentifully supply’d with Hogs, Fowls, Plantains, and Yams, which will be of very great use to us in case we should not discover any lands in our rout to the Southward, the way I now intend to Steer.

  47. 10 August 1769

    Departure from Ulietea

    Thursday, August 10th. P.M., Light Airs and Calm, remainder fresh breezes and Cloudy. At 6 p.m. the South end of Ulietea South-East 1/2 East, distant 4 Leagues; but I take my departure from the Harbour, saild from in Latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes South, and Longitude 151 degrees 27 minutes West. At 7 a.m. found the Variation to be 5 degrees 50 minutes East. Wind Easterly; course South 16 degrees West; distance 50 miles; Latitude observed 17 degrees 34 minutes South, longitude 151 degrees 41 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  48. 11 August 1769

    Fresh breezes and clear weather

    Friday, 11th. Fresh breezes and Clear weather. Wind East; course South 4 degrees West; distance 85 miles; latitude 18 degrees 59 minutes South, longitude 151 degrees 45 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  49. 12 August 1769

    Gentle breezes and fair weather

    Saturday, 12th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. Wind East, East by North; course South 3/4 East; distance 77 miles; latitude 20 degrees 15 minutes South, longitude 151 degrees 36 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  50. 13 August 1769

    Moderate breezes and clear weather

    Sunday, 13th. Moderate breezes and Clear weather. Variation 5 degrees 40 minutes East. Wind East by North; course South 16 degrees East; distance 96 miles; latitude 21 degrees 47 minutes South, longitude 151 degrees 9 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  51. 14 August 1769

    Sight and Approach of Ohetiroa

    Monday, 14th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 2 p.m. saw land bearing South-East, which Tupia calls the Island of Ohetiroa.* (* Rurutu, one of the Tubuai or Austral Group. They are now under French protectorate.) At 6 was within 2 or 3 Leagues of it, the Extreams bearing from South by East to South-East; shortned sail and stood off and on all night.

    At 6 a.m. made Sail and stood in for the Land and run to Leeward of the Island, keeping close in shore all the time, saw several of the Natives as we run along shore, but in no great numbers. At 9 hoisted out the Pinnace and sent Lieutenant Gore, Mr. Banks, and Tupia to Endeavour to land upon the Island, and to speak with the Natives, and to try if they could learn from them what lands lay to the Southward of us, and likewise to see if there was Anchorage in a Bay which appear’d to our View, not that I intended to Anchor or make any stay here.

    Wind North-North-East; latitude 22 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 55 minutes West; at noon, Ohetiroa East 2 leagues.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  52. 15 August 1769

    Unsuccessful Attempt to Land at Ohetiroa

    Tuesday, 15th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 2 p.m. the Pinnace return’d on board without landing, not but what it was practicable, but they did not think it Altogether safe with only one Boat, as it would have been attended with some danger on account of the Surf and Rocks upon the Shore. The Natives were Arm’d, and Shewd no Signs either of fear or Friendship.

    Some of them came off to the Boat in a Canoe, and had some Nails and Beads given them; but with these they were not Satisfied, thinking they had a right to everything in the Boat, and at last grew so Troublesome that in order to get clear of them our People were obliged to fire some Musquets, but with no intent to hurt any of them; however, it so hapned that one Man was Slightly wounded in the head. The firing had the desired effect, and they thought fit to retire.

    After this, as the Boat lay near the Shore, some of them waded off to her, and brought with them some Trifles which they parted with for small Nails, etc. They seem’d desirous that our people should land, but this was looked upon as a Piece of Policy in them to get the whole Boat’s Crew in their power; however, this was not attempted, as I had given orders to run no Risk.

    The Bay they went into, which lies on the West side of the Island, had in it 25 fathoms Water, but the bottom was very foul and Rocky. We had now made the Circuit of the Island (which did not appear to the best advantage), and found that there was neither a Harbour or safe Anchorage about it, and therefore I thought the Landing upon it would be attended with no advantage either to ourselves or any future navigators; and from the Hostile and thievish disposition of the Natives it appear’d that we could have no friendly intercourse with them until they had felt the Smart of our fire Arms, a thing that would have been very unjustifiable in me at this Time; we therefore hoisted in the Boat, and made Sail to the Southward.

  53. 16 August 1769

    Southward Bound with False Sight of Land

    Wednesday, 16th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy the first part; in the night, Squally, with rain; remainder, moderate and fair weather. At 8 a.m., saw the Appearances of high land to the Eastward; bore up towards it, but at 10 we discover’d it to be only Clouds, at which we hauld our wind to the Southward.

    At Noon found the Ship by Observation 21 Miles to the Northward of the Log, which may in some measure be owing to a South-West swell we have had all the last 24 hours.

    Wind North by West, West, West by South; course South 15 degrees East; distance 62 miles; latitude 25 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 19 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  54. 17 August 1769

    A gentle breeze with flying showers of rain

    Thursday, 17th. A Gentle breeze with some flying showers of rain. Had a large Swell from the South-West all this day, much larger than yesterday, and this must be the reason why the observ’d Latitude differ’d from the Log again to day 16 miles. Wind West by South to South-West by South; course South-South-East; distance 76 miles; latitude 26 degrees 10 minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 46 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  55. 18 August 1769

    Carpenters repairing the boats

    Friday, 18th. The first part Calm; remainder light breezes and Clear. Variation per Amplitude in the evening 8 degrees 8 minutes East; in the Morning 7 degrees 56 minutes East. Carpenters employed repairing the Boats. The South-West swell still Continues, but not so much as Yesterday, and the observed Latitude and Log agrees. Wind Calm, North; course South 18 degrees East; distance 38 miles; latitude 26 degrees 48 minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 42 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  56. 19 August 1769

    Little wind with much rain

    Saturday, 19th. Little wind with much rain in the night, the South-West swell still Continues, from which I conclude that there is no land near us in that Quarter. Wind North-West; course South-East by South; distance 62 miles; latitude 27 degrees 40 minutes South; longitude 149 degrees 6 minutes West.

  57. 20 August 1769

    Saw a large albatross

    Sunday, 20th. Little wind all this day. Saw a large Albetross. Wind North-West; course South-East by South; distance 57 miles; latitude 28 degrees 24 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 25 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  58. 21 August 1769

    Saw 2 pintado birds

    Monday, 21st. Fresh Gales and Hazey weather. Saw 2 Pintado Birds, the first I have seen this Voyage; they are larger than a Pidgeon and checquer’d black and white over their backs and wings, with white Bellies, Black heads, and the end of their Tails black.* (* Cape pigeons, Daption Capensis.) Wind North-North-West; course South by East; distance 80 miles; latitude 29 degrees 44 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 22 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  59. 22 August 1769

    Strong gales and much rain

    Tuesday, 22nd. First part Strong Gales with much rain, Thunder, and Lightning; remainder moderate and fair weather. About Noon saw some rock weed, an Albetross, and some Smaller Sea Birds. Wind North by West, South-West by West; course South 14 degrees East; distance 81 miles; latitude 31 degrees 3 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 00 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  60. 23 August 1769

    Little wind and clear weather

    Wednesday, 23rd. Little wind for the most part, and pretty clear weather. In the night had some Showers of rain. Saw a Grampus, and several Pintado Birds. Wind South-West to West-South-West; course South-South-East; distance 68 miles; latitude 31 degrees 6 minutes South; longitude 147 degrees 29 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  61. 24 August 1769

    Sight of a Waterspout

    Thursday, 24th. The first part light Airs and Calm; Middle, moderate breezes and Cloudy; latter part very squally with rain. A.M. Variation per Azimuth 7 degrees 18 minutes East.

    At Noon took in the Topsails and got down Topgallant yards. Saw a Water Spout in the North-West; it was about the breadth of a Rainbow, of a dark Colour, the Upper end of the Cloud from whence it came was about 8 degrees above the Horizon.

    Wind Variable; course South-South-East; distance 41 miles; latitude 32 degrees 44 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 10 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  62. 25 August 1769

    Strong Gales and High Seas

    Friday, 25th. The first and middle part Strong Gales and Squally with rain, remainder moderate and Cloudy. P.M. Unbent the Maintopsail being Split and bent another; in the night lay too under the Foresail, and in the morning made sail under the Courses and Topsails with one reef only.

    Had a large Sea from the Southward, saw several Albetrosses, Pintado Birds, and Sheer Waters; some of the Albetrosses were small, such as we usually saw off Cape Horn; all these kinds of birds are generally seen at a great distance from land.

    Wind, Southerly; course North-West; distance 26 miles; latitude 32 degrees 26 minutes South; longitude 147 degrees 32 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  63. 26 August 1769

    Moderate cloudy weather

    Saturday, 26th. Moderate and cloudy weather, a Swell from the South-West. By observation of the Sun and Moon made this morning, the Longitude of the Ship at Noon is 147 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds, which differs but 11 minutes from that given by the Log. Wind South-West; course South 6 degrees East; South distance 13 miles; latitude 32 degrees 39 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 30 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  64. 27 August 1769

    Saw several albatrosses

    Sunday, 27th. First part little wind and Cloudy; latter part, fresh Gales and Clear weather. Variation per Azimuth 6 degrees 40 minutes East. Saw several Albetrosses, Pintado Birds and Sheer Waters. Wind West, North-North-West; course South 5 degrees East; distance 55 miles; latitude 33 degrees 34 minutes, longitude 147 degrees 25 minutes.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  65. 28 August 1769

    Death of John Rearden

    Monday, 28th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with rain on the Latter part. At 10 departed this Life Jno. Rearden,* (* John Reading.) Boatswain’s Mate; his Death was occasioned by the Boatswain out of mere good Nature giving him part of a Bottle of Rum last night, which it is supposed he drank all at once.

    He was found to be very much in Liquor last night, but as this was no more than what was common with him when he could get any, no farther notice was taken of him than to put him to Bed, where this morning about 8 o’clock he was found Speechless and past recovery.

    Wind Northerly; course South; distance 110 miles; latitude 35 degrees 34 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 25 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  66. 29 August 1769

    A comet in the north

    Tuesday, 29th. Fore and Middle parts fresh Gales and Dark, Hazey weather with some rain. At 5 a.m. saw a Comet in the North. Wind North-West to South-West; course South 1/4 East; distance 96 miles; latitude 37 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 21 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  67. 30 August 1769

    Saw a comet again

    Wednesday, 30th. Fresh breeze and fair weather. At 1 a.m. saw the Comet a little above the Horizon in the East. It pass’d the Meridian about 1/2 past 4; the Tail of the Comet Subtended an Angle of 42 degrees. At 8 a.m. Variation per Azimuth 7 degrees 9 minutes East.

    Bent another suit of Sails. Saw a piece of Rock weed, Some Pintado birds and Sheer Waters and a Green bird something smaller than a Dove, but it was not near enough to distinguish whether it was a Sea or Land bird; it was only seen by one Person, and he probably was Mistaken in the Colour.

    A Swell from the South-West, Wind Westerly; course South 3/4 East; distance 81 miles; latitude 38 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 6 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  68. 31 August 1769

    Squally Weather and Sea Birds

    Thursday, 31st. The first part a fresh breeze and cloudy. At 6 p.m. hauld the wind to the South-West and close reefd the Topsails. At 1 a.m. being very squally with rain, took in the Topsails and brought too under the Mainsail. At 6 made Sail under the Courses.

    Saw some seaweed, sounded, but had no ground at 65 fathoms of Line. Some Albetrosses, Sheer Waters, and a great many Pintado Birds about the Ship with some hundreds of Birds that were smaller than Pidgeons, their backs were grey, their Bellies white, and the ends of their Tails black, and have a blackish line along the upper parts of the wings from the Tip of one to the other.

    We saw birds very like those near Faulklands Islands on the Coast of Patagonia, only they had not the black streak along the wings; they fly low like sheer waters or mother Carys birds, and are perhaps of the same Tribe, for Distinction sake I shall call them Doves.* (* Probably petrels of the genus Prion.)

    Wind Westerly; course South 4 degrees 15 minutes East; distance 68 miles; latitude 39 degrees 28 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 0 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  69. 1 September 1769

    Very strong gales

    Friday, September 1st. Very strong Gales and heavy Squalls with rain; at 6 p.m. brought too under the Main Sail. At 6 a.m. set the Foresail, a Great Sea from the Westward. The same sort of Birds about the Ship as Yesterday, but not in such great Numbers. Wind, Westerly; Course, South 29 degrees East; distance 50 miles; latitude 40 degrees 12 minutes South, longitude 146 degrees 29 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  70. 2 September 1769

    Turning North from the Tempest

    Saturday, 2nd. Very strong Gales, with heavy squalls of Wind, hail, and rain. At 4 p.m., being in the Latitude of 40 degrees 22 minutes South, and having not the least Visible signs of land, we wore, and brought too under the Foresail, and reef’d the Mainsail, and handed it.

    I did intend to have stood to the Southward if the winds had been Moderate, so long as they continued Westerly, notwithstanding we had no prospect of meeting with land, Rather than stand back to the Northward, on the same Track as we came, but as the weather was so very Tempestious I laid aside this design, and thought it more adviseable to stand to the Northward into better weather, least we should receive such Damage in our Sails and Rigging as might hinder the further Prosecutions of the Voyage.* (* This long excursion to the south is a fine instance of Cook’s thoroughness and determination in exploration. The belief in a southern continent was strong amongst most geographers; but it rested on nothing more than the false idea that dry lands in the two hemispheres should balance one another. Cook himself did not share the general belief; and few others in his position would have struggled for 1500 miles out of his direct course into bad weather, simply to disprove an idea, when so much unexplored ocean lay before him to the westward, with a fair wind and fine weather.)*

    Some Albetrosses, Pintado birds, and Doves about the Ship, and a Bird larger than a Duck, his plumage of a Dark Brown, with a Yellow beak. We saw of these Birds in our Passage to the Northward, after doubling Cape Horn.

    At Noon the weather was more moderate; set the Reefd Mainsail. A great Sea from the West-South-West. Wind West; Course North 54 degrees 30 minutes East; distance 46 miles; latitude 39 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 39 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  71. 3 September 1769

    Fresh gales and hard squals

    Sunday, 3rd. The fore and Middle parts fresh gales, with hard Squalls; Latter more moderate. At 5 a.m. loos’d the Reef out of the Mainsail, and set the Topsail double reef’d, and before noon had all the Reefs out. Wind Westerly; course North; distance 50 miles; latitude 38 degrees 54 minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 39 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  72. 4 September 1769

    Few birds about the ship

    Monday, 4th. First and latter parts, little wind and Cloudy; in the night Calm. Very few Birds about the Ship. Wind Westerly; course North by East; distance 26 miles; latitude 38 degrees 29 minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 32 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  73. 5 September 1769

    Fresh breezes and cloudy weather

    Tuesday, 5th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy weather. At 2 p.m. saw a piece of rock Weed. Variation, per Azimuth 7 degrees 0 minutes East. Wind West to North-West; course North 32 West; distance 44 miles; latitude 37 degrees 52 minutes South, longitude 146 degrees 2 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  74. 6 September 1769

    Fresh gales and squally

    Wednesday, 6th. Fresh Gales and Squally, with rain. At Noon saw a Bird which was all white, except the Tip of each Wing; it was nearly as big as an Albetross. We saw 2 of these Birds in Latitude 19 degrees before we Arrived at George’s Island. Wind Westerly; course South 87 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 70 miles; latitude 37 degrees 49 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 30 West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  75. 7 September 1769

    Strong Gales and Rain

    Thursday, 7th. Fresh Gales and hard squalls, with rain. At 3 p.m. saw something upon the Water, which must either have been a Billet of Wood or a Seal. At Noon a hard gale and Squally, which obliged us to take in the Topsails. Wind Westerly; course South 80 degrees West; distance 15 miles; latitude 37 degrees 52 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 49 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  76. 8 September 1769

    Very strong gales and squally

    Friday, 8th. P.M. very strong gales and Squally. A.M. more moderate; set the Topsails. At Noon the Observed Latitude was 13 Miles to the North of the Log. This I take to be owing to the great Sea we have had constantly of Late from the South-West. Wind Westerly; course North 1/4 East; distance 76 miles; latitude 36 degrees 36 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 40 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  77. 9 September 1769

    Dark cloudy weather

    Saturday, 9th. Moderate breezes and dark, cloudy weather, sometimes Hazey, with Drizling Rain. Wind South-East; course North 77 degrees West; distance 76 miles; latitude 36 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 12 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  78. 10 September 1769

    Cloudy Weather and Sounding the Sea

    Sunday, 10th. Fresh breezes and cloudy. At 9 a.m. we thought the Colour of the Sea was paler than Usual, which occasioned us to sound, but had no ground with 100 fathoms. Wind South-West, West-South-West; course North 52 degrees West; distance 97 miles; latitude 35 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 46 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  79. 11 September 1769

    Thick hazey weather

    Monday, 11th. Fresh breezes, and for the most part thick, hazey weather, with rain. Wind South-West; course North 43 degrees West; distance 87 miles; latitude 34 degrees 15 minutes South, longitude 152 degrees 00 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  80. 12 September 1769

    Birds about the ship

    Tuesday, 12th. Fresh breezes and cloudy; a swell from the South-South-West. Some Albetrosses and Pintado Birds about the Ship. Wind Westerly; course North 30 degrees West; distance 73 miles; latitude 33 degrees 12 minutes South, longitude 152 degrees 44 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  81. 13 September 1769

    Gentle breezes with some flying showers

    Wednesday, 13th. Gentle breezes, with some flying Showers. At 6 p.m. Variation per Azimuth, 8 degrees 8 minutes East. Note, while we was between the Latitude of 37 and 40 degrees we had constantly blowing Tempestious weather, but since we have been to the Northward of 37 degrees, the weather hath been very moderate. Wind South-West and West-South-West; course North-North-West; distance 74 miles; latitude 32 degrees 3 minutes South, longitude 153 degrees 16 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  82. 14 September 1769

    Gentle breezes and calm

    Thursday, 14th. Gentle breezes, and sometimes Calm. A Swell from the South-South-West. Wind Variable; course South 86 degrees West; distance 33 miles; latitude 32 degrees 5 minutes South, longitude 153 degrees 54 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  83. 15 September 1769

    Moderate and cloudy

    Friday, 15th. First part, moderate and Cloudy, remainder Strong Gales and Squally. Several Albetrosses, Pintado Birds, and Sheer Waters about the Ship; some of the Albetrosses were all White. Wind North-East to South-East; course South 77 West; distance 139 miles; latitude 32 degrees 36 minutes South, longitude 156 degrees 34 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  84. 16 September 1769

    A large swell from the south

    Saturday, 16th. First part very strong Gales and Squally; remainder more moderate, with a large Swell from the Southward. Wind South-South-East, South, West-South-West; course North 60 degrees West; distance 100 miles; latitude 31 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 158 degrees 16 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  85. 17 September 1769

    Fresh gales and cloudy

    Sunday, 17th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. Wind South-West; course North 25 West; distance 100 miles; latitude 31 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 6 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  86. 18 September 1769

    Moderate gales and cloudy

    Monday, 18th. Moderate Gales and Cloudy, with a Swell from the Southward. Wind Westerly; course North by West 1/2 West; distance 78 miles; latitude 29 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 32 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  87. 19 September 1769

    A large hollow swell from the Southward

    Tuesday, 19th. Variable; light Airs and Calm. Variation per Amplitude at sunset, 8 degrees 36 minutes East; per Azimuth in the morning, 8 degrees 29 minutes East; mean, 8 degrees 32 1/2 minutes East. A large hollow swell from the Southward. Wind Variable; course East; distance 6 miles; latitude 29 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 25 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  88. 20 September 1769

    Light airs and calm

    Wednesday, 20th. Light Airs and Calm. Wind Variable; course South-West by South; distance 20 miles; latitude 29 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 47 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  89. 21 September 1769

    Gentle breezes and clear weather

    Thursday, 21st. Most part Gentle breezes and clear weather. Wind South Easterly; course South 50 degrees West; distance 62 miles; latitude 30 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 160 degrees 42 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  90. 22 September 1769

    The southerly swell still continues

    Friday, 22nd. Fresh breezes and Cloudy. The Southerly swell still Continues, from which I conjecture that there is no land near in that Direction. Wind South-East; course South 34 West; distance 81 miles; latitude 31 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 161 degrees 35 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  91. 23 September 1769

    Gentle breezes and cloudy weather

    Saturday, 23rd. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. Wind South-East; course South-West by South; distance 62 miles; latitude 31 degrees 59 minutes South, longitude 162 degrees 44 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  92. 24 September 1769

    Saw some seaweed

    Sunday, 24th. Moderate breezes and Cloudy. At Noon saw some sea-Weed. The Southerly swell is now quite gone down. Wind South-East to North-East; course South 35 West; distance 97 miles; latitude 33 degrees 18 minutes South, longitude 162 degrees 51 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  93. 25 September 1769

    Ditto weather

    Monday, 25th. Ditto weather. At 1 p.m. passed by a Piece of Wood, about 3 feet long and 7 or 8 Inches thick. Variation at 6 p.m. per Azimuth, 10 degrees 48 minutes East. A.M., got up all the Boatswain’s Stores, to take an account of them. Wind North-East; course South 43 1/2 West; distance 103 miles; latitude 34 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 165 degrees 10 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  94. 26 September 1769

    Fresh breezes and fair weather

    Tuesday, 26th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. Wind North-North-East; course South-West; distance 136 miles; latitude 36 degrees 9 minutes South, longitude 167 degrees 14 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  95. 27 September 1769

    Very strong gales and hazey

    Wednesday, 27th. Very strong Gales and hazey, with rain the First and Middle part; Latter, moderate and clear weather. In the evening took in the Topsails and Mainsail, and lay too with her head to the Westward under the Foresail. During the night, at 4 a.m., made Sail. Saw several Pieces of Sea Weed at different times this 24 Hours. Wind North by East, Westerly; course South 28 West; distance 95 miles; latitude 37 degrees 33 minutes South, longitude 168 degrees 10 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  96. 28 September 1769

    A seal asleep upon the water

    Thursday, 28th. First and Middle parts, fresh gales and Cloudy; Latter part, very strong Gales and Squally. At 4 p.m. saw a Seal asleep upon the Water, and some Weed. A.M. saw several bunches of Sea Weed and a few Albetrosses and Sheer Waters. Wind Westerly; course South 21 degrees West; distance 92 miles; latitude 38 degrees 59 minutes South, longitude 169 degrees 5 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  97. 29 September 1769

    Several birds about the ship

    Friday, 29th. The first part strong Gales and Squally; remainder a fresh breeze and settled weather. At 1 p.m. was obliged to take in the Topsails, but set them again at 4. At 11 a.m. saw a Bird something like a Snipe, only it had a short bill; it had the appearance of a land bird. Several Albetrosses, Pintado birds, and Sheer Waters about the Ship, and a Number of Doves; of these we have seen more or less ever since the 31st of last Month, the day we first saw them. Wind South-West; course North 59 degrees West; distance 60 miles; latitude 38 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 170 degrees 14 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

     

  98. 30 September 1769

    Moderate breezes and settled weather

    Saturday, 30th. Moderate breezes and Settled weather. Saw a dark brown bird as big as a Raven; it is a Sea Fowl, and are seen in great Numbers about the Faulkland Islands, as I am told. We likewise saw several pieces of Sea Weed. Wind South Easterly; course North 87 1/2 West; distance 90 miles; latitude 38 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 20 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  99. 1 October 1769

    Signs of Life in a Calm Sea

    Sunday, October 1st. Little Wind in the day time and Calm in the Night. At 8 a.m. sounded: no ground with 120 fathoms of line. Saw an immence number of Birds, the most of them were Doves; saw likewise a Seal aSleep upon the Water, which we at first took for a Crooked billet.

    These creatures, as they lay upon the Water, hold their fins up in a very odd manner, and very different to any I have seen before; we generally reckon that seals never go out of Soundings or far from Land, but the few we have seen in this Sea is certainly an exception to that rule.

    However, one would think that we were not far from some land, from the Pieces of Rock weed we see daily floating upon the Water. To-day we took up a small Piece of Stick, but to all appearance it had been a long time at Sea.

    The observ’d Latitude is considerable to the Northward of that given by the Log, in so much that I think there must be some Current seting from the Southward. Wind South to West by North; course North 16 degrees West; distance 43 miles; latitude 37 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 36 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  100. 2 October 1769

    Bird Hunting and Calm Waters

    Monday, 2nd. Little wind. At 3 p.m. hoisted out a Boat to try the Current, but found none. Saw several Grampusses. A.M. had a Boat in the Water, and Mr. Banks shott an Albetross which measured 10 feet 8 Inches from the tip of Wing to the other. He likewise shott 2 birds that were very much like Ducks, excepting their head and Bill; their plumage were dark brown. We first saw some of these birds in the Latitude of 40 degrees South, after our first coming into those Seas. Wind West-South-West, South-West; course North-North-West; distance 35 miles; latitude 37 degrees 10 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 54 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  101. 3 October 1769

    Calm Seas and Northern Drift

    Tuesday, 3rd. Little wind and sometimes Calm. A.M. Variation per Azimuth 13 degrees 22 minutes East. Saw some fish like a Skip Jack, and a small sort that appeared very Transparent. Took up a very small piece of wood with Barnacles upon it, a proof that it hath been some time at Sea. Some very large Albetrosses about the Ship and other birds. The observed Latitude is 10 Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log, and it was the same Yesterday, which I think is a Proof that there must be a Current setting to the Northward, notwithstanding we did not find any when we try’d it. Wind Southerly; course North 60 degrees West; distance 28 miles; latitude 36 degrees 56 minutes South, longitude 173 degrees 27 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to open in Google Maps.

  102. 4 October 1769

    Gentle Breezes and Sparse Rock Weed

    Wednesday, 4th. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. P.M. Variation per Azimuth 12 degrees 48 minutes East; sounded twice, but found no ground, with 120 fathoms of line. Saw some rock weed, but not in such plenty as of late. Wind South-East; course South 52 1/2 West; distance 86 miles; latitude 37 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 175 degrees 00 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  103. 5 October 1769

    Port Egmont Hens and Porpoises

    Thursday, 5th. Light, gentle breezes and Clear weather. P.M. saw one of the same sort of Birds as we saw last Saturday. These birds are of a dark brown or Chocolate Colour, with some white feathers under their wings, and are as big as Ravens. Mr. Gore says that they are in great plenty at Port Egmont in Faulklands Islands, and for that reason calls them Port Egmont Hens. Saw a great many Porpoisses, large and Small; the small ones had white bellies and Noses. A.M. saw 2 Port Egmont Hens, a Seal, some sea Weed, and a Piece of wood with Barnacles upon it. Wind South-East to East-North-East; course South 49 1/2 West; distance 63 miles; latitude 38 degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 176 degrees 3 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  104. 6 October 1769

    Pale Waters and Gentle Winds

    Friday, 6th. Little wind, and fine pleasant weather. Saw some Seals, sea weed, and Port Egmont Hens. P.M. Variation per Azimuth 12 degrees 50 minutes East. Per Amplitude 12 degrees 40 minutes. A.M. per Azimuth 14 degrees 2 minutes East; the difference is 1 degree 3 minutes, and the Ship has only gone 9 Leagues in the Time. The Colour of the water appears to be paler than common, and hath been so for some days past; this makes us sound frequently, but can find no ground with 180 fathoms of Line. Wind East-North-East; course South-West; distance 62 miles; latitude 39 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 177 degrees 2 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  105. 7 October 1769

    First sight of New Zealand

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Saturday, 7th. Gentle breezes and settled weather. At 2 p.m. saw land* (*The North island of New Zealand.) from the Masthead bearing West by North, which we stood directly for, and could but just see it of the Deck at sunset. Variation per Azimuth and Amplitude 15 degrees 4 1/2 minutes East; by observation of the Sun and Moon made this afternoon the Longitude of the Ship is 180 degrees 55 minutes West, by the mean of these and Subsequent observations the Error of the Ship’s account in Longitude from George’s Island is 3 degrees 16 minutes; that is, so much to the Westward of the Longitude resulting from the Log, which is what is inserted in the Columns. At Midnight brought too and sounded, but had no ground with 170 fathoms. At daylight made sail in for the Land, at Noon it bore from South-West to North-West by North, distant 8 Leagues. Latitude observed 38 degrees 57 minutes South; Wind North-East, South-East, Variable; course South 70 degrees West; distance 41 miles; latitude 38 degrees 57 minutes observed South; longitude 177 degrees 54 minutes West.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), October 6, 1769 :

    “On the next day, Friday, October the 6th, we saw land from the mast-head, bearing W. by N. and stood directly for it; in the evening it could just be discerned from the deck, and appeared large. The variation this day was, by azimuth and amplitude, 15° 4′ ½E. and by observation made of the sun and moon, the longitude of the ship appeared to be 180° 55′ W. and by the medium of this and subsequent observations, there appeared to be an error in the ship’s account of longitude during her run from Otaheite of 3° 16′, she being so much to the westward of the longitude resulting from the log. At midnight, I brought to and sounded, but had no ground with one hundred and seventy fathom.”

    Banks’s Journal, October 6, 1769:

    “This morn a Port Egmont hen and a seal were seen pretty early. At ½past one a small boy who was at the mast head Calld out Land. I was luckyly upon deck and well I was entertaind, within a few minutes the cry circulated and up came all hands, this land could not then be seen even from the tops yet few were there who did not plainly see it from the deck till it appeard that they had lookd at least 5 points wrong. Weather most moderate. We came up with it very slowly; at sun set myself was at the masthead, land appeard much like an Island or Islands but seemd to be large. Just before a small shark was seen who had a very piked nose something like our dog fish in England.”

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    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  106. 8 October 1769

    Approaching the Coast of New Zealand

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Sunday, 8th. Gentle breezes and clear weather. At 5 p.m., seeing the opening of a Bay that appear’d to run pretty far inland, hauld our wind and stood in for it; but as soon as night came on we keept plying on and off until day light, when we found ourselves to leeward of the Bay, the wind being at North. By Noon we fetch’d in with the South-West point, but not being able to weather it we tacked and stood off. We saw in the Bay several Canoes, People upon the Shore, and some houses in the Country. The land on the Sea Coast is high, with Steep Cliffs; and back inland are very high Mountains. The face of the Country is of a hilly surface, and appears to be cloathed with wood and Verdure. Wind between the East-North-East and North.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), October 7, 1769:

    “On the 7th, it fell calm, we therefore approached the land slowly, and in the afternoon, when a breeze sprung up, we were still distant seven or eight leagues. It appeared still larger as it was more distinctly seen, with four or five ranges of hills, rising one over the other, and a chain of mountains above all, which appeared to be of an enormous height. This land became the subject of much eager conversation; but the general opinion seemed to be that we had found the Terra australis incognita.

    About five o’clock we saw the opening of a bay, which seemed to run pretty far inland, upon which we hauled our wind and stood in for it; we also saw smoke ascending from different places on shore. When night came on, however, we kept plying off and on till day-light, when we found ourselves to the leeward of the bay, the wind being at north: we could now perceive that the hills were cloathed with wood, and that some of the trees in the valleys were very large. By noon we fetched in with the south west point; but not being able to weather it, tacked and stood off: at this time we saw several canoes standing cross the bay, which in a little time made to shore, without seeming to take the least notice of the ship; we also saw some houses, which appeared to be small, but neat; and near one of them a considerable number of the people collected together, who were sitting upon the beach, and who, we thought, were the same that we had seen in the canoes.

    Upon a small peninsula, at the north east head, we could plainly perceive a pretty high and regular paling, which inclosed the whole top of a hill; this was also the subject of much speculation, some supposing it to be a park of deer, others an inclosure for oxen and sheep. About four o’clock in the afternoon, we anchored on the north west side of the bay, before the entrance of a small river, in ten fathom water, with a fine sandy bottom, and at about half a league from the shore. The sides of the bay are white cliffs of a great height; the middle is low land, with hills gradually rising behind, one towering above another, and terminating in the chain of mountains which appeared to be far inland.

    In the evening I went on more, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with the pinnace and yawl, and a party of men. We landed abreast of the ship, on the east side of the river, which was here about forty yards broad; but seeing some natives on the west side whom I wished to speak with, and finding the river not fordable, I ordered the yawl in to carry us over, and left the pinnace at the entrance. When we came near the place where the people were assembled, they all ran away; however, we landed, and leaving four boys to take care of the yawl, we walked up to some huts which were about two or three hundred yards from the water-side. When we had got some distance from the boat, four men, armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods, and running up to attack the boat, would certainly have cut her off, if the people in the pinnace had not discovered them, and called to the boys to drop down the stream: the boys instantly obeyed; but being closely pursued by the Indians, the Cockswain of the pinnace, who had the charge of the boats, fired a musquet over their heads; at this they stopped and looked round them, but in a few minutes renewed the pursuit, brandishing their lances in a threatening manner: the Cockswain then fired a second musquet over their heads, but of this they took no notice; and one of them lifting up his spear to dart it at the boat, another piece was fired, which shot him dead. When he fell, the other three stood motionless for some minutes, as if petrified with astonishment; as soon as they recovered, they went back, dragging after them the dead body, which however they soon left, that it might not incumber their flight.

    At the report of the first musquet we drew together, having straggled to a little distance from each other, and made the best of our way back to the boat; and crossing the river, we soon saw the Indian lying dead upon the ground. Upon examining the body, we found that he had been shot through the heart: he was a man of the middle size and stature; his complexion was brown, but not very dark; and one side of his face was tattowed in spiral lines of a very regular figure: he was covered with a fine cloth, of a manufacture altogether new to us, and it was tied on exactly according to the representation in Valentyn’s Account of Abel Tasman’s Voyage, vol. iii. part 2. page 50. his hair also was tied in a knot on the top of his head, but had no feather in it. We returned immediately to the ship, where we could hear the people on shore talking with great earnestness, and in a very loud tone, probably about what had happened, and what should be done.”

    Banks’s Journal, October 7, 1769:

    “This morn the Land plainly seen from the deck appears to be very large; about 11 a large smoak was seen and soon after several more, sure sign of inhabitants. After dinner dropd calm: myself in little boat shot Nectris munda and Procellaria velox, took with the dipping net Dagysa gemma and a good deal of Fucus, sertularia etc., the examination of which is postpond till we shall have more time than we are likely to have at present. In the Evening a pleasant breeze. At sunset all hands at the mast head; Land still distant 7 or 8 leagues, appears larger than ever, in many parts 3, 4 and 5 ranges of hills are seen one over the other and a chain of Mountains over all, some of which appear enormously high. Much difference of opinion and many conjectures about  Islands, rivers, inlets etc., but all hands seem to agree that this is certainly the Continent we are in search of.”

     

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  107. 9 October 1769

    Poverty Bay Encounter

    The tragic events at Poverty Bay marked the expedition’s first contact with the Māori. Misinterpretations of gestures and intentions resulted in violence, prompting Cook to express regret and to seek reconciliation through renewed efforts at peaceful communication.

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “MONDAY, 9th October. Gentle breezes and Clear Weather. P.M. stood into the Bay and Anchored on the North-East side before the Entrance of a small River,* (* Tauranga nui. The township of Gisborne is now situated on its eastern bank.) in 10 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The North-East point of the Bay bore East by South 1/2 South, and the South-West point South, distance from the Shore half a League.

    After this I went ashore with a Party of men in the Pinnace and yawl accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We landed abreast of the Ship and on the East side of the River just mentioned; but seeing some of the Natives on the other side of the River of whom I was desirous of speaking with, and finding that we could not ford the River, I order’d the yawl in to carry us over, and the pinnace to lay at the Entrance. In the mean time the Indians made off. However we went as far as their Hutts which lay about 2 or 300 Yards from the water side, leaving 4 boys to take care of the Yawl, which we had no sooner left than 4 Men came out of the woods on the other side the River, and would certainly have cut her off had not the People in the Pinnace discover’d them and called to her to drop down the Stream, which they did, being closely persued by the Indians.

    The coxswain of the Pinnace, who had the charge of the Boats, seeing this, fir’d 2 Musquets over their Heads; the first made them stop and Look round them, but the 2nd they took no notice of; upon which a third was fir’d and kill’d one of them upon the Spot just as he was going to dart his spear at the Boat. At this the other 3 stood motionless for a Minute or two, seemingly quite surprised; wondering, no doubt, what it was that had thus kill’d their Comrade; but as soon as they recovered themselves they made off, dragging the Dead body a little way and then left it. Upon our hearing the report of the Musquets we immediately repair’d to the Boats, and after viewing the Dead body we return’d on board. In the morning, seeing a number of the Natives at the same place where we saw them last night, I went on shore with the Boats, mann’d and arm’d, and landed on the opposite side of the river.

    Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself only landed at first, and went to the side of the river, the natives being got together on the opposite side. We called to them in the George’s Island Language, but they answer’d us by flourishing their weapons over their heads and dancing, as we suppos’d, the War Dance; upon this we retir’d until the Marines were landed, which I order’d to be drawn up about 200 yards behind us. We went again to the river side, having Tupia, Mr. Green, and Dr. Monkhouse along with us.

    Tupia spoke to them in his own Language, and it was an agreeable surprize to us to find that they perfectly understood him. After some little conversation had passed one of them swam over to us, and after him 20 or 30 more; these last brought their Arms, which the first man did not. We made them every one presents, but this did not satisfy them; they wanted everything we had about us, particularly our Arms, and made several attempts to snatch them out of our hands.

    Tupia told us several times, as soon as they came over, to take care of ourselves for they were not our friends; and this we very soon found, for one of them snatched Mr. Green’s hanger from him and would not give it up. This encouraged the rest to be more insolent, and seeing others coming over to join them, I order’d the man who had taken the Hanger to be fir’d at, which was accordingly done, and wounded in such a manner that he died soon after. Upon the first fire, which was only 2 Musquets, the others retir’d to a Rock which lay nearly in the middle of the River; but on seeing the man fall they return’d, probably to carry him off or his Arms, the last of which they accomplished, and this we could not prevent unless we had run our Bayonets into them, for upon their returning from off the Rock, we had discharged off our Peices, which were loaded with small shott, and wounded 3 more; but these got over the River and were carried off by the others, who now thought proper to retire.

    Finding nothing was to be done with the People on this side, and the water in the river being salt, I embarked with an intent to row round the head of the Bay in search of fresh water, and if possible to surprise some of the Natives and to take them on board, and by good Treatment and Presents endeavour to gain their friendship with this view.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), October 9, 1769:

    “In the morning, we saw several of the natives where they had been seen the night before, and some walking with a quick pace towards the place where we had landed, most of them unarmed; but three or four with long pikes in their hands. As I was desirous to establish an intercourse with them, I ordered three boats to be manned with seamen and marines, and proceeded towards the shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the other Gentlemen, and Tupia; about fifty of them seemed to wait for our landing, on the opposite side of the river, which we thought a sign of fear, and seated themselves upon the ground: at first, therefore, myself, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, landed from the little boat, and advanced towards them; but we had not proceeded many paces before they all started up, and every man produced either a long pike, or a small weapon of green Talc, extremely well polished, about a foot long, and thick enough to weigh four or five pounds: Tupia called to them in the language of Otaheite; but they answered only by flourishing their weapons, and making signs to us to depart; a musquet was then fired wide of them, and the ball struck the water, the river being still between us: they saw the effect, and desisted from their threats; but we thought it prudent to retreat till the marines could be landed.

    This was soon done; and they marched, with a jack carried before them, to a little bank, about fifty yards from the water-side; here they were drawn up, and I again advanced, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; Tupia, Mr. Green, and Mr. Monkhouse, being with us. Tupia was again directed to speak to them, and it was with great pleasure that we perceived he was perfectly understood, he and the natives speaking only different dialects of the same language. He told them that we wanted provision and water, and would give them iron in exchange, the properties of which he explained as well as he was able. They were willing to trade, and desired that we would come over to them for that purpose: to this we consented, provided they would lay by their arms; which, however, they could by no means be persuaded to do.

    During this conversation, Tupia warned us to be upon our guard, for that they were not our friends: we then pressed them in our turn to come over to us; and at last one of them dripped himself, and swam over without his arms: he was almost immediately followed by two more, and soon after by most of the rest, to the number of twenty or thirty; but these brought their arms with them.

    We made them all presents of iron and beads; but they seemed to set little value upon either, particularly the iron, not having the least idea of its use; so that we got nothing in return but a few feathers: they offered indeed to exchange their arms for ours, and, when we refused, made many attempts to snatch them out of our hands.

    As soon as they came over, Tupia repeated his declaration, that they were not our friends, and again warned us to be upon our guard; their attempts to snatch our weapons, therefore, did not succeed; and we gave them to understand by Tupia, that we should be obliged to kill them if they offered any farther violence.

    In a few minutes, however, Mr. Green happening to turn about, one of them snatched away his hanger, and retiring to a little distance, waved it round his head, with a shout of exultation: the rest now began to be extremely insolent, and we saw more coming to join them from the opposite side of the river. It was therefore become necessary to repress them, and Mr. Banks fired at the man who had taken the hanger with small shot, at the distance of about fifteen yards: when the shot struck him, he ceased his cry; but instead of returning the hanger, continued to flourish it over his head, at the same time slowly retreating to a greater distance. Mr. Monkhouse seeing this, fired at him with ball, and he instantly dropped. Upon this the main body, who had retired to a rock in the middle of the river upon the first discharge, began to return; two that were near to the man who had been killed, ran up to the body, one seized his weapon of green Talc, and the other endeavoured to secure the hanger, which Mr. Monkhouse had but just time to prevent.

    As all that had retired to the rock were now advancing, three of us discharged our pieces, loaded only with small shot, upon which they swam back for the shore; and we perceived, upon their landing, that two or three of them were wounded. They retired slowly up the country, and we reimbarked in our boats.

    As we had unhappily experienced that nothing was to be done with these people at this place, and finding the water in the river to be salt, I proceeded in the boats round the head of the bay in search of fresh water, and with a design, if possible, to surprise some of the natives, and take them on board, where by kind treatment and presents I might obtain their friendship, and by their means establish an amicable correspondence with their countrymen.

    To my great regret, I found no place where I could land, a dangerous surf every where beating upon the more; but I saw two canoes coming in from the sea, one under fail, and the other worked with paddles. I thought this a favourable opportunity to get some of the people into my possession without mischief, as those in the canoe were probably fishermen and without arms, and I had three boats full of men. I therefore disposed the boats so as most effectually to intercept them in their way to the more; the people in the canoe that was paddled perceived us so soon, that by making to the nearest land with their utmost strength, they escaped us; the other sailed on till she was in the midst of us, without discerning what we were; but the moment she discovered us, the people on board struck their sail, and took to their paddles, which they plied so briskly that she out-ran the boat.

    They were however within hearing, and Tupia called out to them to come along side, and promised for us that they should come to no hurt: they chose, however, rather to trust to their paddles than our promises, and continued to make from us with all their power. I then ordered a musquet to be fired over their heads, as the least exceptionable expedient to accomplish my design, hoping it would either make them surrender or leap into the water. Upon the discharge of the piece, they ceased paddling; and all of them, being seven in number, began to strip, as we imagined to jump overboard; but it happened otherwise.

    They immediately formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight; and when the boat came up, they began the attack with their paddles, and with stones and other offensive weapons that were in the boat, so vigorously, that we were obliged to fire upon them in our own defence: four were unhappily killed, and the other three who were boys, the eldest about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven, instantly leaped into the water; the eldest swam with great vigour, and resisted the attempts of our people to take him into the boat by every effort that he could make: he was however at last overpowered, and the other two were taken up with less difficulty.

    I am conscious that the feeling of every reader of humanity will censure me for having fired upon these unhappy people, and it is impossible that, upon a calm review, I should approve it myself. They certainly did not deserve death for not chusing to confide in my promises; or not consenting to come on board my boat, even if they had apprehended no danger; but the nature of my service required me to obtain a knowlege of their country, which I could no otherwise effect than by forcing my way into it in a hostile manner, or gaining admission through the confidence and good-will of the people. I had already tried the power of presents without effect; and I was now prompted, by my desire to avoid further hostilities, to get some of them on board, as the only method left of convincing them that we intended them no harm, and had it in our power to contribute to their gratification and convenience.

    Thus far my intentions certainly were not criminal; and though in the contest, which I had not the least reason to expect, our victory might have been complete without so great an expence of life; yet in such situations, when the command to fire has been given, no man can restrain its excess, or prescribe its effect.

    As soon as the poor wretches whom we had taken out of the water were in the boat, they squatted down, expecting no doubt instantly to be put to death: we made haste to convince them of the contrary, by every method in our power; we furnished them with clothes, and gave them every other testimony of kindness that could remove their fears and engage their good-will. Those who are acquainted with human nature will not wonder, that the sudden joy of these young savages at being unexpectedly delivered from the fear of death, and kindly treated by those whom they supposed would have been their instant executioners, surmounted their concern for the friends they had lost, and was strongly expressed in their countenances and behaviour.

    Before we reached the ship, their suspicions and fears being wholly removed, they appeared to be not only reconciled to their situation but in high spirits, and upon being offered some bread when they came on board, they devoured it with a voracious appetite. They answered and asked many questions, with great appearance of pleasure and curiosity; and when our dinner came, they expressed an inclination to taste every thing that they saw: they seemed best pleased with the salt pork, though we had other provisions upon the table;

    At sun-set, they eat another meal with great eagerness, each devouring a large quantity of bread, and drinking above a quart of water. We then made them beds upon the lockers, and they went to sleep with great seeming content. In the night, however, the tumult of their minds having subsided, and given way to reflection, they sighed often and loud. Tupia, who was always upon the watch to comfort them, got up, and by soothing and encouragement made them not only easy but cheerful; their cheerfulness was encouraged so that they sung a song with a degree of taste that surprised us: the tune was solemn and slow, like those of our Psalms, containing many notes and semitones.

    Their countenances were intelligent and expressive, and the middlemost, who seemed to be about fifteen, had an openness in his aspect, and an ease in his deportment which were very striking: we found that the two eldest were brothers, and that their names were Taahourange and Koikerange; the name of the youngest was Maragovete. As we were returning to the ship, after having taken these boys into the boat, we picked up a large piece of pummice stone floating upon the water; a sure sign that there either is, or has been a volcano in this neighbourhood.

    Banks’s Journal, October 9, 1769:

    “We could see with our glasses but few people on the beach; they walkd with a quick pace towards the river where we landed yesterday, most of these without arms, 3 or 4 with long Pikes in their hands. The captn orderd three boats to be mannd with seamen and marines intending to land and try to establish a communication with them. A high surf ran on the shore. The Indians about 50 remaind on the farther side of the river; we lookd upon that as a sign of fear, so landing with the little boat only the Captn Dr Solander, Tupia and myself went to the river side to speak to them.

    As soon almost as we appeard they rose up and every man producd either a long pike or a small weapon of well polishd stone about a foot long and thick enough to weigh 4 or 5 pounds, with these they threatned us and signd to us to depart. A musquet was then fird wide of them the ball of which struck the water, they saw the effect and immediately ceasd their threats. We though[t] that it was prudent to retreat till the marines were landed and drawn up to intimidate them and support us in case of nesscessity. They landed and marchd with a Jack carried before them to a little bank about 50 yards from the river, which might be about 40 broad; here they were drawn up in order and we again advancd to the river side with Tupia, who now found that the language of the people was so like his own that he could tolerably well understand them and they him.

    He immediately began to tell them that we wanted provisions and water for which we would give them Iron in exchange: they agreed to the proposal but would by no means lay by their arms which he desird them do: this he lookd upon as a sign of treachery and continualy told us to be upon our guard for they were not our freinds. Many words passd the cheif purport of which was that each side desird the other to come over to them; at last however an Indian stripd himself and swam over without arms, he was followd by two more and soon after by most of the rest who brought with them their arms. We gave them Iron and beads, they seemd to set little value upon either but especialy upon the iron the use of which they certainly were totaly ignorant of. They caught at whatever was offerd them but would part with nothing but a few feathers: their arms indeed they offerd to exchange for ours which they made several atempts to snatch from us; we were upon our guard so much that their attempts faild and they were made to understand that we must kill them if they snatchd any thing from us.

    After some time Mr Green in turning himself about exposd his hanger, one of them immediately snatchd it, set up a cry of exultation and waving it round his head retreated gently. It now appeard nescessary for our safeties that so daring an act should be instantly punishd, this I pronouncd aloud as my opinion, the Captn and the rest Joind me on which I fird my musquet which was loaded with small shot, leveling it between his shoulders who was not 15 yards from me. On the shot striking him he ceasd his cry but instead of quitting his prize continued to wave it over his head retreating as gently as before; the surgeon who was nearer him, seeing this fird a ball at him at which he dropd. Two more who were near him returnd instantly, one seizd his weapon of Green talk, the other attempted to recover the hanger which the surgeon had scarce time to prevent.

    The main body of them were now upon a rock a little way in the river. They took the water returning towards us, on which the other three, for we were only 5 in number, fird on them. They then retird and swam again across the river. On their landing we saw that 3 were wounded, one seemingly a good deal hurt: we may hope however that neither of them were killd as one of the musquets only was loaded with ball, which I think I saw strike the water without taking effect, and Tupias gun which was the last that was fird I clearly saw strike two men low down upon their legs, who probably would be so lame as to walk with difficulty when they landed.  The Indians retird gently carrying with them their wounded and we reembarkd in our boats intending to row round the bay, see if there might be any shelter for the ship on the other side, and attempt to land there where the countrey appeard to be much more fruitfull than where we now were. The bottom of the bay provd to be a low sandy beach on which the sea broke most prodigiously so that we could not come near it; within was flat, a long way inland over this water might be seen from the mast head probably a lagoon but in the boat we could see no entrance into it.

    We had almost arrivd at the farthest part of the bay when a fresh breze came in from the seaward and we saw a Canoe sailing in standing right towards [us], soon after another padling. The Captn now resolvd to take one of these which in all probability might be done without the least resistance as we had three boats full of men and the canoes seemd to be fishermen, who probably were without arms. The boats were drawn up in such a manner that they could not well escape us: the padling canoe first saw us and made immediately for the nearest land, the other saild on till she was in the midst of us before she saw us, as soon as she did she struck her sail and began to paddle so briskly that she outran our boat; on a musquet being fird over her she however immediately ceasd padling and the people in her, 7 in all, made all possible haste to strip as we thought to leap into the water, but no sooner did our boat come up with her than they began with stones, paddles etc. to make so brisk a resistance that we were obligd to fire into her by which 4 were killd. The other three who were boys leapd overboard, one of them swam with great agility and when taken made every effort in his power to prevent being taken into the boat, the other two were more easily prevaild upon.

    As soon as they were in they squatted down expecting no doubt instant death, but on finding themselves well usd and that Cloaths were given them they recoverd their spirits in a very short time and before we got to the ship appeard almost totaly insensible of the loss of their fellows. As soon as they came onboard we offerd them bread to eat of which they almost devourd a large quantity, in the mean time they had Cloaths given them; this good usage had such an effect that they seemd to have intirely forgot every thing that had happned, put on chearfull and lively countenances and askd and answerd questions with a great deal of curiosity.

    Our dinner came, they expressd a curiosity to taste whatever they saw us eat, and did; salt pork seemd to please them better than any thing else, of this they eat a good deal. At sunset they eat again an enormous quantity of Bread and drank above a quart of water each; we then made them beds upon the lockers and they laid down to sleep with all seeming content imaginable. After dark loud voices were heard ashore as last night. Thus ended the most disagreable day My life has yet seen, black be the mark for it and heaven send that such may never return to embitter future reflection. I forgot to mention in its proper place that we pickd up a large pumice stone floating in the bay in returning to the ship today, a sure sign that there either is or has been a Volcano in this neighbourhood.”

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    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  108. 10 October 1769

    Canoes Fired Upon, Prisoners Taken

    Tuesday, 10th. P.M., I rowed round the head of the bay, but could find no place to land on account of the Great Surf which beat everywhere upon the Shore. Seeing 2 Boats or Canoes coming in from Sea I rowed to one of them, in order to Seize upon the People; and came so near before they took notice of us that Tupia called to them to come alongside and we would not hurt them; but instead of doing this they endeavour’d to get away, upon which I order’d a Musquet to be fir’d over their Heads, thinking this would either make them surrender, or jump overboard; but here I was mistaken, for they immediately took to their Arms or whatever they had in the Boat, and began to attack us.

    This obliged us to fire upon them, and unfortunately either 2 or 3 were kill’d and one wounded, and 3 jumped overboard. These last we took up and brought on board, where they was Cloathed and Treated with all imaginable kindness; and to the Surprise of everybody became at once as cheerful and as merry as if they had been with their own Friends. They were all 3 Young, the eldest not above 20 years of Age, and the youngest about 10 or 12. I am aware that most Humane men who have not experienced things of this nature will Censure my Conduct in firing upon the People in their Boat, nor do I myself think that the reason I had for seizing upon her will at all justify me; and had I thought that they would have made the Least Resistance I would not have come near them; but as they did, I was not to stand still and suffer either myself or those that were with me to be knocked on the head.

    In the morning, as I intended to put our 3 Prisoners ashore, and stay here the day to see what effect it might have upon the other Natives, I sent an Officer ashore with the Marines and a party of men to cut wood, and soon after followed myself, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, taking the 3 Natives with us, whom we landed on the West side of the River before mentioned. They were very unwilling to leave us, pretending that they should fall into the hands of their Enemies, who would kill and Eat them. However, they at last of their own accord left us and hid themselves in some bushes. Soon after this we discover’d several bodys of the Natives marching towards us, upon which we retir’d aCross the River, and joind the wooders; and with us came the 3 Natives we had just parted with, for we could not prevail upon them to go to their own people.

    We had no sooner got over the River than the others assembled on the other side to the Number of 150 or 200, all Arm’d. Tupia now began to Parly with them, and the 3 we had with us shew’d everything we had given them, part of which they laid and left upon the Body of the Man that was Kill’d the day before. These things seem’d so far to Convince them of our friendly intentions that one man came over to us, while all the others sat down upon the Sand. We everyone made this man a present, and the 3 Natives that were with us likewise presented him with such things as they had got from us, with which, after a short Stay, he retir’d aCross the River.

    I now thought proper to take everybody on board, to prevent any more Quarrels, and with us came the 3 Natives, whom we could not prevail upon to stay behind; and this appear’d the more strange as the man that came over to us was Uncle to one of them. After we had return’d on board we saw them Carry off the Dead Man; but the one that was Kill’d the first evening we Landed remain’d in the very spot they had left him.

  109. 11 October 1769

    Departure from Poverty Bay

    Wednesday, 11th. In the P.M., as I intended to sail in the Morning, we put the 3 Youths ashore, seemingly very much against their inclination; but whether this was owing to a desire they had to remain with us, or the fear of falling into the hands of their Enemies, as they pretended, I know not. The latter, however, seemed to be ill-founded, for we saw them carried aCross the River in a Catamaran, and walk Leasurely off with the other Natives.

    At 6 a.m. we weighed and stood out of the Bay, which I have named Poverty Bay, because it afforded us no one thing we wanted (Latitude 38 degrees 42 minutes South, Longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes West).* (* Latitude correct. Longitude is 181 degrees 57 minutes West.) It is in the form of a Horse Shoe, and is known by an Island lying close under the North-East point. The 2 points which forms the Entrance are high, with Steap white Cliffs, and lay a League and a half or 2 Leagues from Each other, North-East by East and South-West by West.

    The Depth of Water in this Bay is from 12 to 6 and 5 fathoms, a sandy bottom and good Anchorage, but you lay open to the winds between the South and East. Boats can go in and out of the river above mentioned at any time of Tide in fine weather; but as there is a Bar at the Entrance, on which the Sea Sometimes runs so high that no Boat can either get in or out, which hapned while we laid here; however, I believe that Boats can generally land on the North-East side of the river. The shore of this Bay, from a little within each Entrance, is a low, flat sand; but this is only a Narrow Slip, for the face of the Country appears with a variety of hills and Vallies, all cloathed with woods and Verdure, and to all appearance well inhabited, especially in the Vallies leading up from the Bay, where we daily saw Smoke at a great distance inland, and far back in the Country are very high Mountains.

    At Noon the South-West point of Poverty Bay, which I have named Young Nicks head (after the Boy who first saw this land),* (* In Mr. Molineux’s Log, his name is given as Nicholas Young, but no such name appears in the official lists.) bore North by West, distance 3 or 4 leagues, being at this time about 3 Miles from the Shore, and had 25 fathoms Water, the Main Land extending from North-East by North to South. My intention is to follow the direction of the Coast to the Southward, as far as the Latitude of 40 or 41 degrees, and then to return to the Northward, in case we meet with nothing to incourage us to proceed farther.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  110. 12 October 1769

    Cape Table and Isle of Portland

    Thursday, 12th. Gentle breezes at North-West and North, with frequent Calms. In the Afternoon, while we lay becalm’d, several Canoes came off to the Ship, but keept at a distance until one, who appeared to come from a different part, came off and put alongside at once, and after her all the rest. The people in this boat had heard of the Treatment those had met with we had had on board before, and therefore came on board without hesitation; they were all kindly treated, and very soon entered into a Traffick with our People for George’s Island Cloth, etc.; giving in Exchange their Paddles, having little else to dispose of, and hardly left themselves a sufficient number to paddle ashore; nay, the people in one Canoe, after disposing of their Paddles, offer’d to sell the Canoe.

    After a stay of about 2 hours they went away, but by some means or other 3 were left on board, and not one boat would put back to take them in, and, what was more surprizing, those aboard did not seem at all uneasy with their situation. In the evening a light breeze springing up at North-West, we steer’d along Shore, under an easy sail, until midnight, then brought too. Soon after it fell Calm, and continued so until 8 o’Clock a.m., when a breeze sprung up at North, with which we stood along shore South-South-West. At and after sunrise found the variation to be 14 degrees 46 minutes East.

    About this time 2 Canoes came off to the Ship, one of which was prevailed upon to come along side to take in the 3 people we had had on board all night, who now seem’d glad of the opportunity to get ashore. As the People in the Canoe were a little shy at first, it was observed that one Argument those on board made use on to intice the others alongside, was in telling them that we did not Eat men; from which it should seem that these people have such a Custom among them. At the time we made sail we were abreast of the Point of Land set yesterday at Noon, from which the Land trends South-South-West. This point I have named Cape Table, on account of its shape and figure. It lies 7 Leagues to the Southward of Poverty Bay, in the Latitude of 39 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes West, it is of a moderate height, makes in a sharpe Angle, and appears to be quite flat at Top.

    In steering along shore to the Southward of the Cape, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles off, our soundings were from 20 to 30 fathoms, having a Chain of Rocks that appears at different heights above water, laying between us and the Shore. At Noon, Cape Table bore North 20 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and a small Island (being the Southermost land in sight) bore South 70 degrees West, distant 3 miles. This Island I have named Isle of Portland, on account of its very great resemblance to Portland in the English Channel. It lies about a mile from a Point on the Main, but there appears to be a ledge of Rocks extending nearly, if not quite, aCross from the one to the other.

    North 57 degrees East, 2 Miles from the South point of Portland, lies a sunken rock whereon the sea breaks; we passed between this Rock and the land having 17, 18, and 20 fathom Water. We saw a great Number of the Natives assembled together on the Isle of Portland; we likewise saw some on the Main land, and several places that were Cultivated and laid out in square Plantations.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  111. 13 October 1769

    Rounding Portland and Entering the Bay

    Friday, 13th. At 1 p.m. we discover’d land behind or to the Westward of Portland, extending to the Southward as far as we could see. In hauling round the South end of Portland we fell into Shoal Water and broken ground, which we, however, soon got clear of. At this time 4 Canoes came off to us full of People, and keept for sometime under our stern threatning of us all the while.

    As I did not know but what I might be obliged to send our Boats ahead to sound, I thought these Gentry would be as well out of the way. I order’d a Musquet shott to be fir’d close to one of them, but this they took no notice of. A 4 Pounder was then fir’d a little wide of them; at this they began to shake their Spears and Paddles at us, but notwithstanding this they thought fit to retire. Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the Land North-West, having a Gentle breeze at North-East, which died away at 5 o’Clock and obliged us to Anchor in 21 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom: the South Point of Portland bore South-East 1/2 South distant about 2 Leagues, and a low Point on the Main bore North 1/2 East.

    In this last direction there runs in a deep bay behind the Land on which is Table Cape, which makes this Land a Peninsula, joined to the Main by a low, narrow neck of land; the Cape is the North Point of the Peninsula, and Portland the South. While we lay at Anchor 2 Boats came off to us, and so near as to take up some things we throw’d them out of the Ship, but would not come alongside. At 5 a.m. a breeze springing northerly we weigh’d and steer’d in for the Land. The shore here forms a very large Bay, of which Portland is the North-East Point, and the Bay above mentioned is an Arm of it.

    I would gladly have examin’d this Arm, because there appear’d to be safe Anchorage in it, but as I was not certain of this, and the wind being right an End, I did not care to spend time in Turning up to it. At Noon Portland bore South 50 degrees East, and the Southermost land in sight bore South-South-West, distant 10 or 12 Leagues, being about 3 miles from the Shore, and in this situation had 12 fathoms water–24 fathoms have been the most Water we have had since we have been within Portland, every where clear ground. The land near the Shore is of a moderate height, with white Cliffs and Sandy beaches. Inland are several Pretty high Mountains, and the whole face of the Country appears with a very hilly surface, and for the most part Covered with wood, and hath all the appearances of a very pleasant and fertile Country.

     

  112. 14 October 1769

    Off Ahuriri Bay; Hostile Canoes and Survey of the Coast

    Saturday, 14th. P.M. had Gentle breezes between the North-East and North-West. Kept running down along shore at the distance of 2 or 3 miles off. Our sounding was from 20 to 13 fathoms, an even sandy bottom. We saw some Canoes or Boats in shore, and several houses upon the Land, but no harbour or Convenient watering place–the Main thing we were looking for.

    In the night had little wind, and Sometimes Calm with Dirty, rainy weather. A.M. had Variable light Airs next to a Calm and fair weather. In the morning, being not above 2 Leagues from the South-West corner of the great Bay we have been in for the 2 days past, the Pinnace and Long boat were hoisted out in order to search for Fresh Water; but just as they were ready to put off we observed several Boats full of People coming off from the Shore, and for that reason I did not think it prudent to send our own from the Ship. The first that came were 5 in Number, in them were between 80 and 90 men.

    Every Method was tried to gain their Friendship, and several things were thrown overboard to them; but all we could do was to no purpose, neither would they accept of any one thing from us, but seem’d fully bent on attacking us. In order to prevent this, and our being obliged to fire upon them, I order’d a 4 Pounder Loaded with grape to be fir’d a little wide of them, letting them know at the same time by Means of Tupia what we were going to do; this had the desir’d effect, and not one of these would afterwards trust themselves abreast of the Ship. Soon after 4 more came off; one of these put what Arms they had into another Boat, and then came alongside so near as to take what things we gave them, and I believe might have been Prevailed upon to come on board had not some of the first 5 came up under our Stern and began again to threaten us, at which the people in this one Boat seem’d displeased; immediately after this they all went ashore.

    At Noon Latitude in per Observation 39 degrees 37 minutes South. Portland bore by our run from it East by North, distant 14 Leagues; the Southermost land in sight, and which is the South point of the Bay, South-East by South, distant 4 or 5 Leagues; and a Bluff head lying in the South-West corner of the Bay South by West 2 or 3 Miles. On each side of this bluff head is a low narrow sand or stone beach; between these beaches and the Main land is a pretty large lake of Salt Water, as I suppose.

    On the South-East side of this head is a very large flatt, which seems to extend a good way inland to the Westward; on this flatt are Several groves of Streight, tall Trees, but there seems to be a great Probability that the lake above mentiond extends itself a good way into this flatt Country. Inland are a Chain of Pretty high Mountains extending North and South; on the Summits and Sides of these Mountains were many Patches of Snow, but between them and the Sea the Land is Cloathed with wood. (* The Endeavour was now off what is called Ahuriri Bay. The bluff head is known as Ahuriri Bluff, and the town of Napier, of 8000 inhabitants, lies at the back of it. The large sheet of salt water is called Manganui-o-rotu. There was no sheltered harbour for a vessel in the Endeavour’s situation, but at present, harbour works have improved the entrance to the lagoon into which vessels drawing 12 feet can enter. Produce of the value of over a million pounds per annum is now exported from Napier.)

  113. 15 October 1769

    Cape Kidnapper and Hawke’s Bay Named

    Sunday, 15th. P.M. stood over for the Southermost Land or South point of the Bay, having a light breeze at North-East, our soundings from 12 to 8 fathoms. Not reaching this point before dark, we stood Off and on all night, having Variable light Airs next to a Calm; depth of water from 8 to 7 fathoms; Variation 14 degrees 10 minutes East. At 8 a.m., being abreast of the South-West point of the Bay, some fishing Boats came off to us and sold us some stinking fish; however it was such as they had, and we were glad to enter into Traffick with them upon any Terms.

    These People behaved at first very well, until a large Arm’d boat, wherein were 22 Men, came alongside. We soon saw that this Boat had nothing for Traffick, yet as they came boldly alongside we gave them 2 or 3 pieces of Cloth, Articles they seem’d the most fond off. One Man in this Boat had on him a black skin, something like a Bear Skin, which I was desirous of having that I might be a better judge what sort of an Animal the first Owner was. I offer’d him for it a piece of Red Cloth, which he seem’d to jump at by immediately putting off the Skin and holding it up to us, but would not part with it until he had the Cloth in his possession and after that not at all, but put off the Boat and went away, and with them all the rest.

    But in a very short time they return’d again, and one of the fishing Boats came alongside and offer’d us some more fish. The Indian Boy Tiata, Tupia’s Servant, being over the side, they seiz’d hold of him, pull’d him into the Boat and endeavoured to carry him off; this obliged us to fire upon them, which gave the Boy an opportunity to jump overboard. We brought the Ship too, lower’d a Boat into the Water, and took him up unhurt. Two or 3 paid for this daring attempt with the loss of their lives, and many more would have suffer’d had it not been for fear of killing the Boy.

    This affair occasioned my giving this point of land the name of Cape Kidnapper. It is remarkable on account of 2 White rocks in form of Haystacks standing very near it. On each side of the Cape are Tolerable high white steep Cliffs, Latitude 39 degrees 43 minutes South; Longitude 182 degrees 24 minutes West; it lies South-West by West, distant 13 Leagues from the Island of Portland. Between them is a large Bay wherein we have been for these 3 days past; this Bay I have named Hawkes Bay in Honour of Sir Edward, first Lord of the Admiralty; we found in it from 24 to 8 and 7 fathoms, everywhere good Anchoring.

    From Cape Kidnapper the Island Trends South-South-West, and in this direction we run along shore, keeping about a League off, having a steady breeze and Clear weather. At Noon the above Cape bore from us North 9 degrees East, distant 2 Leagues, and the Southermost land in sight South 25 degrees West Latitude in Per Observation 39 degrees 50 minutes South.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  114. 16 October 1769

    Along the Southern Coast past Cape Kidnapper

    First and latter part, fresh breezes, Northerly; in the night, Variable and sometimes calm. At 2 p.m. passed by a Small but a Pretty high white Island lying close to the Shore. On this Island we saw a good many Houses, Boats, and Some People. We concluded that they must be fishers, because the Island was quite barren; we likewise saw several people upon the Shore in a small Bay on the Main within the Island.

    At 7 the Southermost land in sight bore South-West by South, and Cape Kidnapper North 3/4 East, distant 8 leagues, being then about 2 Leagues from the Shore, and had 55 fathoms. At 11 brought too until daylight, then made Sail along shore to the Southward. At 7 passed a pretty high point of Land, which lies South-South-West, 12 Leagues from Cape Kidnapper. From this point the Land Trends 3/4 of a point more to the Westward.

    At 10 saw more land appear to the Southward, at South-West by South. At Noon the Southermost land in sight bore South 39 degrees West, distant 8 or 10 Leagues, and a high Bluff head with Yellowish Cliffs bore West, distant 2 miles, Latitude observed 40 degrees 34 minutes South; depth of water 32 fathoms.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  115. 17 October 1769

    Cape Turnagain and Return Northward

    P.M. winds at West, a fresh breeze; in the night, Variable light Airs and Calm; a.m. a Gentle breeze between the North-West and North-East. Seeing no likelyhood of meeting with a Harbour, and the face of the Country Visibly altering for the worse, I thought that the standing farther to the South would not be attended with any Valuable discovery, but would be loosing of Time, which might be better employ’d and with a greater Probability of success in examining the Coast to the Northward. With this View, at 1 p.m. Tack’d and stood to the Northward, having the Wind at West, a fresh breeze.* (* If Cook had known the exact shape of New Zealand, he could scarcely have taken a better resolve, in view of saving time, than to turn northward again when he did.)

    At this time we could see the land extending South-West by South, at least 10 or 12 Leagues. The Bluff head or high point of land we were abreast off at Noon I have called Cape Turnagain because here we returned. It lies in the Latitude of 40 degrees 34 minutes South, Longitude 182 degrees 55 West, and 18 Leagues South-South-West and South-South-West 1/2 West from Cape Kidnapper.

    The land between them is of a very unequal height; in some places it is high, with White Cliffs next the Sea–in others low, with sandy beaches. The face of the Country is not nearly so well Cloathed with wood as it is about Hawkes Bay, but for the most part looks like our high Downs in England, and to all appearance well inhabited, for we saw several Villages as we run along shore, not only in the Vallies, but on the Tops and sides of the Hills, and Smokes in other places.

    The ridge of Mountains before mentioned extends to the Southward farther than we could see, and are every where Checquer’d with Snow. This night saw 2 Large fires up in the inland Country, a sure sign that it must be inhabited. At Noon Cape Kidnapper bore North 56 degrees West, distant 7 Leagues; latitude observed 39 degrees 52 minutes South.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  116. 18 October 1769

    Soundings Between Cape Kidnapper and Isle of Portland

    Variable light winds and fine weather. At 4 a.m. Cape Kidnapper bore North 32 degrees West, distant 2 Leagues. In this situation had 62 fathoms; and when the said Cape bore West by North, distant 3 or 4 Leagues, had 45 fathoms; Midway between the Isle of Portland and Cape Kidnapper had 65 fathoms. At Noon the Isle of Portland bore North-East 1/2 East, distant 4 Leagues; latitude observ’d 39 degrees 34 minutes South.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  117. 19 October 1769

    Unexpected Guests from Shore

    The first part had Gentle breezes at East and East-North-East; in the night, fresh Gales between the South and South-West; dark, Cloudy weather, with Lightning and rain. At 1/2 past 5 P.M. Tack’d and stood to the South-East: the Isle of Portland bore South-East, distant 3 Leagues. Soon after we Tacked a boat or Canoe came off from the Shore, wherein were 5 People. They came on board without shewing the least signs of fear, and insisted upon staying with us the whole night; indeed, there was no getting them away without turning them out of the Ship by force, and that I did not care to do; but to prevent them playing us any Trick I hoisted their Canoe up alongside.

    Two appear’d to be Chiefs, and the other 3 their Servants. One of the Chiefs seem’d to be of a free, open, and Gentle disposition; they both took great notice of everything they saw, and was very thankful for what was given them. The 2 Chiefs would neither Eat nor Drink with us, but the other 3 Eat whatever was offer’d them.

    Notwithstanding that these people had heard of the Treatment the others had meet with who had been on board before, yet it appear’d a little strange that they should place so much Confidence in us as to put themselves wholy in our power wether we would or no, especially as the others we had meet with in this bay had upon every occasion behaved in quite a different manner. At 11 brought too until daylight (the night being dark and rainy), then made sail.

    At 7 a.m. brought too under Cape Table, and sent away the Indian Canoe. At this Time some others were putting off from the Shore, but we did not wait their coming, but made sail to the Northward. At Noon the Northermost land in sight North 20 degrees East, and Young Nicks head, or the South point of Poverty Bay, West-Northerly, near 4 Leagues. Latitude observed 38 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds South.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  118. 20 October 1769

    Anchored Near Gable End Foreland

    P.M. a fresh breeze at South-South-West; in the night, variable light breezes, with rain; A.M. a fresh breeze at South-West. At 3 p.m. passed by a remarkable head, which I called Gable end Foreland on account of the very great resemblance the white cliff at the very point hath to the Gable end of a House. It is made still more remarkable by a Spir’d Rock standing a little distance from it.

    This head land lies from Cape Table North 24 degrees East, distant 12 Leagues. Between them the Shore forms a Bay, wherein lies Poverty Bay, 4 Leagues from the former and 8 Leagues from the Latter. From Gable end Foreland the land trends North by East as far as we could see.

    The land from Poverty Bay to this place is of a moderate but very unequal height, distinguished by Hills and Vallies that are Cover’d with woods. We saw, as we run along shore, several Villages, cultivated lands, and some of the Natives.

    In the evening some Canoes came off to the Ship, and one Man came on board to whom we gave a few Trifles and then sent him away. Stood off and on until daylight, and then made sail in shore in order to look into 2 Bays that appear’d to our view about 2 Leagues to the Northward of the Foreland.

    The Southermost we could not fetch, but in the other we Anchor’d about 11 o’Clock in 7 fathoms, a black sandy bottom. The North point bore North-East 1/2 North, distant 2 Miles, and the South Point South-East by East, distant one Mile, and about 3/4 of a Mile from the Shore.

    This Bay is not so much Shelter’d from the Sea as I at first thought it was; but as the Natives, many of whom came about us in their Canoes, appear’d to be of a friendly disposition, I was willing to try if we could not get a little water on board, and to see a little into the Nature of the Country before we proceeded further to the Northward.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  119. 21 October 1769

    Anchored and Began Watering

    We had no sooner come to an Anchor, as mentioned above, than perceiving 2 old Men in the Canoes, who from their Garbe appear’d to be Chiefs, these I invited on board, and they came without Hesitation. To each I gave about 4 Yards of linnen and a Spike Nail; the linnen they were very fond of, but the Nails they seem’d to set no Value upon.

    Tupia explain’d to them the reasons of our Coming here, and that we should neither hurt nor Molest them if they did but behave in the same peaceable manner to us; indeed, we were under very little apprehension but what they would, as they had heard of what hapned in Poverty Bay.

    Between 1 and 2 p.m. I put off with the Boats mann’d and Arm’d in order to land to look for fresh Water, these 2 Men along with us; but the surf running very high, and it begun to blow and rain at the same time, I returned back to the Ship, having first put the 2 Chiefs into one of their Canoes.

    In the evening it fell moderate, and we landed and found 2 Small Streams of Fresh Water, and the Natives to all appearance very friendly and peaceable; on which account I resolved to Stay one day at least, to fill a little water and to give Mr. Banks an opportunity to Collect a little of the Produce of the Country.

    In the morning Lieutenant Gore went on shore to superintend the Watering with a Strong party of Men, but the getting the Casks off was so very difficult, on account of the Surf, that it was noon before one Turn came on board.

  120. 22 October 1769

    Departure from Tegadoo Bay

    P.M. light breezes and Cloudy. About or a little after Noon several of the Natives came off to the Ship in their Canoes and began to Traffick with us, our people giving them George’s Island Cloth for theirs, for they had little else to dispose of.

    This kind of exchange they seem’d at first very fond of, and prefer’d the Cloth we had got at the Islands to English Cloth; but it fell in its value above 500 p. ct. before night. I had some of them on board, and Shew’d them the Ship, with which they were well pleased.

    The same friendly disposition was observed by those on shore, and upon the whole they behaved as well or better than one could expect; but as the getting the Water from the Shore proved so very Tedious on account of the Surf, I resolved upon leaving this place in the morning, and accordingly, at 5 a.m., we weighed and put to Sea.

    This Bay is called by the Natives Tegadoo;* (* Anaura Bay.) it lies in the Latitude of 38 degrees 16 minutes South, but as it hath nothing to recommend it I shall give no discription of it.

    There is plenty of Wild Sellery, and we purchased of the Natives 10 or 15 pounds of sweet Potatoes. They have pretty large plantations of these, but at present they are scarce, it being too Early in the Season.

    At Noon the Bay of Tegadoo bore West 1/2 South, distant 8 Leagues, and a very high double peak’d Mountain some distance in land bore North-West by West. Latitude observed 38 degrees 13 minutes South; Wind at North, a fresh Gale.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  121. 23 October 1769

    Anchoring at Tolaga Bay

    P.M. fresh Gales at North, and Cloudy weather. At 1 Tack’d and stood in shore; at 6 Sounded, and had 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom; the Bay of Tegadoo bore South-West 1/2 West, distance 4 Leagues.

    At 8 Tack’d in 36 fathoms, being then about 2 Leagues from land; stood off and on all night, having Gentle breezes. At 8 a.m., being right before the Bay of Tegadoo and about a League from it, some of the Natives came off to us and inform’d us that in a Bay a little to the Southward (being the same that we could not fetch the day we put into Tegadoo) was fresh Water and easey getting at it.

    As the wind was now against us, and we gain’d nothing by beating to windward, I thought the time would be better spent in this Bay* (* Tolaga.) in getting on board a little water, and forming some Connections with the Natives, than by keeping the Sea. With this view we bore up for it, and sent 2 Boats in, Mann’d and Arm’d, to Examine the Watering Place, who returned about noon and conform’d the account the Natives had given.

    We then Anchor’d in 11 fathoms, fine sandy bottom; the North point of the Bay North by East and the South point South-East, and the watering place, which was in a Small Cove a little within the South point of the Bay, distance one Mile.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  122. 24 October 1769

    Watering and Observations at Tolaga Bay

    Winds Westerly and fine weather. This afternoon, as soon as the Ship was moor’d, I went ashore to Examine the watering place, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. I found the Water good and the Place pretty Convenient, and plenty of Wood close to high Water Mark, and the Natives to all appearance not only very friendly but ready to Traffick with us for what little they had.

    Early in the morning I sent Lieutenant Gore ashore to Superintend the Cutting wood and filling of Water, with a Sufficient number of men for both purposes, and all the Marines as a Guard. After breakfast I went myself, and remain’d there the whole day; but before this Mr. Green and I took several observations of the Sun and Moon.

    The mean result of them gave 180 degrees 47 minutes West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich; but as all the observations made before exceeded these, I have laid down this Coast agreeable to the means of the whole. At noon I took the Sun’s Meridian Altitude with the Astronomical Quadrant, and found the Latitude 38 degrees 22 minutes 24 seconds South.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  123. 25 October 1769

    Watering, Wooding, and Friendly Trade

    Winds and weather as Yesterday. P.M. set up the Armourer’s Forge to repair the Tiller braces, they being broke. By night we had got on board 12 Tons of Water and two or 3 Boats’ loads of Wood, and this I looked upon to be a good day’s work. The Natives gave us not the least disturbance, but brought us now and then different sorts of Fish out to the Ship and Watering place, which we purchased of them with Cloth, beads, etc.

  124. 26 October 1769

    Rainy Weather but Continued Work

    P.M. had the winds from between the South and South-West, fair weather; the remainder, rainy, dirty weather. Notwithstanding we continued getting on board Wood and Water.

  125. 27 October 1769

    Sounding the Bay and Gathering Provisions

    Winds at South-West; first part rainy weather, the remainder fair. A.M. sent the Pinnace to drudge, but she met with no success; after this, I went and sounded the Bay. I made a Shift to land in 2 Places, the first time in the bottom of the bay, where I went a little way into the Country, but met with nothing extraordinary. The other place I landed at was at the North point of the Bay, where I got as much Sellery and Scurvy grass as loaded the Boat. This day we compleated our Water to 70 Tons, but not wood Enough.

  126. 28 October 1769

    Wooding and Gathering Antiscorbutics

    Gentle breezes Southerly and fine weather. Employ’d wooding, cutting, and making of Brooms, there being a Shrub here very fit for that purpose; and as I intended to sail in the morning some hands were employ’d picking of Sellery to take to Sea with us. This is found here in great plenty, and I have caused it to be boiled with Portable Soup and Oatmeal every morning for the people’s breakfast; and this I design to continue as long as it will last, or any is to be got, and I look upon it to be very wholesome and a great Antiscorbutick.

  127. 29 October 1769

    Departure from Tolaga Bay

    P.M. Gentle breezes with Thunder and Lightning up the Country; in the night had light Airs off the land and very foggy; in the forenoon had a gentle breeze at North-North-East and Clear weather. At 4 a.m. unmoor’d, and at 6 weigh’d and put to Sea. At Noon the bay sail’d from bore North 63 degrees West, distant 4 Leagues.

    This bay is called by the Natives Tolaga;* (* It still goes by this name.) it is moderately large, and hath in it from 13 to 8 and 7 fathoms, clean sandy bottom and good Anchorage, and is shelterd from all winds except those that blow from the North-East Quarter. It lies in the Latitude of 38 degrees 22 minutes South, and 4 1/2 Leagues to the Northward of Gable end Foreland.

    Off the South point lies a small but high Island, so near to the Main as not to be distinguished from it. Close to the North end of this Island, at the Entrance into the Bay, are 2 high Rocks; one is high and round like a Corn Stack, but the other is long with holes thro’ it like the Arches of a Bridge.

    Within these rocks is the Cove, where we cut wood and fill’d our Water. Off the North point of the Bay is a pretty high rocky Island, and about a Mile without it are some rocks and breakers. The variation of the Compass is here 14 degrees 31 minutes East, and the Tide flows at full and change of the Moon about 6 o’Clock, and rises and falls upon a Perpendicular 5 or 6 feet, but wether the flood comes from the Southward or Northward I have not been able to determine.

    During our stay in this bay we had every day more or less Traffick with the Natives, they bringing us fish, and now and then a few sweet Potatoes and several trifles which we deemd Curiosities; for these we gave them Cloth, Beads, Nails, etc. The Cloth we got at King George’s Island and Ulietea, they valued more than anything we could give them, and as every one in the Ship were provided with some of this sort of Cloth, I suffer’d every body to purchase what ever they pleased without limitation; for by this means I knew that the Natives would not only sell but get a good Price for every thing they brought.

    This I thought would induce them to bring to Market whatever the Country afforded, and I have great reason to think that they did, yet it amounted to no more than what is above mentioned. We saw no 4 footed Animals, either Tame or Wild, or signs of any, except Dogs and Rats,* (* Cook’s powers of observation are here evident. There were no other quadrupeds in New Zealand.) and these were very Scarce, especially the latter. The flesh of the former they eat, and ornament their clothing with their skins as we do ours with furs, etc.

    While we lay here I went upon some of the Hills in order to View the Country, but when I came there I could see but very little of it, the sight being interrupted by still higher hills. The Tops and ridges of the Hills are for the most part barren, at least little grows on them but fern; but the Valleys and sides of many of the Hills were luxuriously clothed with woods and Verdure and little Plantations of the Natives lying dispers’d up and down the Country.

    We found in the Woods, Trees of above 20 different sorts; Specimens of each I took on board, as all of them were unknown to any of us. The Tree which we cut for firing was something like Maple and yeilded a whitish Gum. There was another sort of a deep Yellow which we imagin’d might prove useful in dying. We likewise found one Cabage Tree* (* Palm.) which we cut down for the sake of the cabage.

    The Country abounds with a great Number of Plants, and the woods with as great a variety of beautiful birds, many of them unknown to us. The soil of both the hills and Valleys is light and sandy, and very proper for producing all kinds of Roots, but we saw only sweet potatoes and Yams among them; these they plant in little round hills, and have plantations of them containing several Acres neatly laid out and keept in good order, and many of them are fenced in with low paling which can only serve for Ornament.

  128. 30 October 1769

    Northward from Tolaga Bay

    P.M. little wind and cloudy weather. At 1 Tack’d and stood in shore; at 7 o’Clock Tolaga Bay bore West-North-West, distant one League. Tack’d and lay her head off; had it calm until 2 a.m., when a breeze sprung up at South-West, and we made Sail to the Northward.

    At 6, Gable end Foreland bore South-South-West, and Tolaga bay South-South-West 1/4 West, distance 3 Leagues. At 8, being about 2 Miles from the shore, some Canoes that were fishing came after the Ship; but we having a fresh of wind they could not come up with us, and I did not chuse to wait for them.

    At Noon, Latitude per observation 37 degrees 49 minutes South, a small Island lying off the Northernmost land in sight, bore North 16 degrees East, distant 4 Miles; course from Tolaga bay North by East 1/2 East, distance 13 Leagues.

    The Land from thence is of a moderate but unequal height, forming several small bays wherein are sandy beaches. Hazey, cloudy weather prevented us from seeing much of the inland country, but near the Shore we could see several Villages and Plantations of the Natives. Soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  129. 31 October 1769

    East Cape and Cape Runaway

    At half-past one p.m. hauled round the Island above mentioned, which lies East 1 Mile from the North-East point of the land. The lands from hence Trends North-West by West, and West-North-West, as far as we could see. This point of Land I have called East Cape, because I have great reason to think that it is the Eastermost land on this whole Coast; and for the same reason I have called the Island which lays off it, East Island.

    It is but of a small circuit, high and round, and appears white and barren. The Cape is of a moderate height with white cliffs, and lies in the Latitude of 37 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds South, and Longitude 181 degrees 00 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich. After we had rounded the East Cape we saw, as we run along shore, a great number of Villages and a great deal of Cultivated land; and in general the country appear’d with more fertility than what we had seen before; it was low near the Sea, but hilly inland.

    At 8, being 8 leagues to the Westward of Cape East, and 3 or 4 miles from the shore, shortned sail and brought too for the night, having at this Time a fresh Gale at South-South-East and squally weather; but it soon fell moderate, and at 2 a.m. made Sail again to the South-West as the land now Trended. At 8 saw land which made like an Island bearing West. At the same time the South-Westermost part of the Main bore South-West.

    At 9, five Canoes came off to us, in one of which were upwards of 40 Men all Arm’d with Pikes, etc.; from this and other Circumstances it fully appear’d that they came with no friendly intentions; and I at this Time being very buisey, and had no inclination to stay upon deck to watch their Motions, I order’d a Grape shot to be fir’d a little wide of them. This made them pull off a little, and then they got together either to consult what to do or to look about them. Upon this I order’d a round shott to be fir’d over their heads, which frightend them to that degree that I believe they did not think themselves safe until they got ashore.

    This occasion’d our calling the Point of land off which this hapned, Cape Runaway. Latitude 37 degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 50 minutes West, and 17 or 18 Leagues to the Westward of East Cape. 4 Leagues to the Westward of East Cape is a bay which I have named Hicks’s bay, because Lieutenant Hicks was the first who discover’d it.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  130. 1 November 1769

    White Island and Hostile Canoes

    P.M., as we stood along shore (having little wind, and Variable), we saw a great deal of Cultivated land laid out in regular inclosures, a sure sign that the Country is both fertile and well inhabited. Some Canoes came off from the shore, but would not come near the Ship. At 8 brought to 3 Miles from the Shore, the land seen yesterday bearing West, and which we now saw was an Island, bore South-West,* (* This should evidently be North-West.) distant 8 leagues. I have named it White Island,* (* White Island is an active volcano. It was evidently quiescent at the time of the Endeavour passing.) because as such it always appear’d to us.

    At 5 a.m. made Sail along shore to the South-West, having little wind at East-South-East and Cloudy weather. At 8 saw between 40 and 50 Canoes in shore. Several of them came off to the Ship, and being about us some time they ventur’d alongside and sold us some Lobsters, Muscels, and 2 Conger Eales.

    After these were gone some others came off from another place with Muscels only, and but few of these they thought proper to part with, thinking they had a right to everything we handed them into their Canoes without making any return. At last the People in one Canoe took away some linnen that was towing over the side, which they would not return for all that we could say to them.

    Upon this I fir’d a Musket Ball thro’ the Canoe, and after that another musquet load with Small Shott, neither of which they minded, only pulled off a little, and then shook their paddles at us, at which I fir’d a third Musquet; and the ball, striking the Water pretty near them, they immediately apply’d their Paddles to another use; but after they thought themselves out of reach they got altogether, and Shook their Paddles again at us. I then gave the Ship a Yaw, and fir’d a 4 Pounder. This sent them quite off, and we keept on our course along shore, having a light breeze at East-South-East.

    At noon we were in the Latitude of 37 degrees 55 minutes, White Island bearing North 29 degrees West, distant 8 Leagues.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  131. 2 November 1769

    Mowtohora and Mount Edgcombe

    Gentle breezes from North-West round Northerly to East-South-East and fair weather. At 2 p.m. saw a pretty high Island bearing West from us, and at 5 saw more Islands and Rocks to the Westward of it. Hauld our wind in order to go without them, but, finding that we could not weather them before dark, bore up, and run between them and the Main.

    At 7 was close under the first Island, from whence a large double Canoe full of People came off to us. This was the first double Canoe we had seen in this Country. They staid about the Ship until it was dark, then left us; but not before they had thrown a few stones. They told us the name of the Island, which was Mowtohora.* (* Motuhora, called also Whale Island.) It is but of a small Circuit, but high, and lies 6 Miles from the Main. Under the South side is Anchorage in 14 fathoms.

    South-West by South from this Island on the Main land, seemingly at no great distance from the Sea, is a high round Mountain, which I have named Mount Edgcombe. It stands in the middle of a large Plain, which make it the more Conspicuous. Latitude 37 degrees 59 minutes South, Longitude 183 degrees 07 minutes West. In standing to the Westward we Shoalded our Water from 17 to 10 fathoms, and knowing that we were not far from some Small Islands and Rocks that we had seen before dark, after Passing of which I intended to have brought too for the night, but I now thought it more prudent to tack, and spend the Night under the Island of Mowtohora, where I knew there was no danger.

    And it was well we did, for in the morning, after we had made Sail to the Westward, we discovered Rocks ahead of us Level with and under the Water.* (* Rurima Rocks.) They lay 1 1/2 Leagues from the Island Mowtohora, and about 9 Miles from the Main, and North-North-East from Mount Edgecumbe. We passed between these Rocks and the Main, having from 7 to 10 fathoms. The double Canoe which we saw last night follow’d us to-day under Sail, and keept abreast of the Ship near an hour talking to Tupia, but at last they began to pelt us with stones. But upon firing one Musquet they dropt aStern and left us.

    At 1/2 past 10 Passed between a low flat Island and the Main, the distance from one to the other being 4 Miles; depth of Water 10, 12, and 15 fathoms. At Noon the flat Island* (* Motunau.) bore from North-East to East 1/2 North, distance 5 or 6 Miles; Latitude in per Observation 37 degrees 39 minutes South, Longitude 183 degrees 30 minutes West. The Main land between this and the Island of Mowtohara, which is 10 Leagues, is of a moderate height, and all a level, flat Country, pretty clear of wood and full of Plantations and Villiages.

    These Villiages are built upon Eminences Near the Sea, and are Fortified on the land side with a Bank and a Ditch, and Pallisaded all round. Besides this, some of them appear’d to have out-works. We have before now observed, on several parts of the Coast, small Villiages inclosed with Pallisades and works of this kind built on Eminences and Ridges of hills, but Tupia had all along told us that they were Mories, or places of worship; but I rather think they are places of retreat or strong hold where they defend themselves against the Attack of an Enemy, as some of them seem’d not ill design’d for that Purpose.* (* In the contests with the Maories in after years, these Pahs, or forts, proved to be no despicable defences.)

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  132. 3 November 1769

    The Mayor and the Court of Aldermen

    P.M. Fresh Gales at North-East by East and hazey weather. At 2 pass’d a small high Island lying 4 Miles from a high round head on the Main* (* The island was Moliti; the high round head was Maunganui, which marks the entrance to Tauranga harbour, a good port, where now stands a small town of the same name.) from this head the land Trends North-West as far as we could see, and appeared to be very rugged and hilly. The weather being very hazey, and the Wind blowing fresh on shore, we hauled off close upon a wind for the weathermost Island in sight, which bore from us North-North-East, distant 6 or 7 Leagues.

    Under this Island we spent the Night, having a fresh gale at North-East and North-East by East, and hazey weather with rain; this Island I have called the Mayor. At 7 a.m. it bore South 47 degrees East, distant 6 Leagues, and a Cluster of small Islands and Rocks bore North 1/2 East, distant one League. At the time had a Gentle breeze at East-North-East and clear weather.

    The Cluster of Islands and Rocks just mentioned we named the Court of Aldermen; they lay in the Compass of about half a League every way, and 5 Leagues from the Main, between which and them lay other Islands. The most of them are barren rocks, and of these there is a very great Variety, some of them are of as small a Compass as the Monument in London, and Spire up to a much greater height; they lay in the Latitude of 36 degrees 57 minutes, and some of them are inhabited.

    At Noon they bore South 60 degrees East, distant 3 or 4 Leagues, and a Rock like a Castle lying not far from the Main, bore North 40 degrees West, one League. Latitude observed 36 degrees 58 minutes South; Course and distance since Yesterday noon is North-North-West 1/2 West, about 20 Leagues. In this Situation had 28 fathoms water, and a great many small Islands and Rocks on every side of us. The Main land appears here with a hilly, rugged, and barren surface, no Plantations to be seen, nor no other signs of its being well inhabited.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  133. 4 November 1769

    Anchored in a New Inlet

    The first and middle parts, little wind at East-North-East and Clear weather; the Latter had a fresh breeze at North-North-West and hazey with rain.

    At 1 p.m. 3 Canoes came off from the Main to the Ship, and after Parading about a little while they darted 2 Pikes at us. The first was at one of our Men as he was going to give them a rope, thinking they were coming on board; but the 2nd they throw’d into the Ship; the firing of one musquet sent them away. Each of these Canoes were made out of one large Tree, and were without any sort of Ornament, and the people in them were mostly quite naked.

    At 2 p.m. saw a large op’ning or inlet in the land, which we bore up for with an intent to come to an Anchor. At this time had 41 fathoms, which gradually decreased to 9 fathoms, at which time we were 1 1/2 Mile from a high Tower’d Rock lying near the South point of the inlet; the rock and the Northermost of the Court of Aldermen being in one bearing South 61 degrees East. At 1/2 past 7 Anchor’d in 7 Fathoms a little within the South Entrance of the Bay or inlet.

    We were accompanied in here by several Canoes, who stay’d about the Ship until dark; and before they went away they were so generous as to tell us that they would come and attack us in the morning; but some of them paid us a Visit in the night, thinking, no doubt, but what they should find all hands asleep, but as soon as they found their Mistake they went off.

    My reasons for putting in here were the hopes of discovering a good Harbour, and the desire I had of being in some convenient place to observe the Transit of Mercury, which happens on the 9th Instant, and will be wholy Visible here if the day is clear. If we be so fortunate as to obtain this observation, the Longitude of this place and Country will thereby be very accurately determined.

    Between 5 and 6 o’Clock in the morning several Canoes came off to us from all parts of the Bay; in them were about 130 or 140 People. To all appearances their first design was to attack us, being all Completely Arm’d in their way; however, this they never attempted, but after Parading about the Ship near 3 Hours, sometimes trading with us, and at other times Tricking of us, they dispersed; but not before we had fir’d a few Musquets and one great gun, not with any design to hurt any of them, but to shew them what sort of Weapons we had, and that we could revenge any insult they offer’d to us. It was observable that they paid but little regard to the Musquets that were fir’d, notwithstanding one ball was fir’d thro’ one of their Canoes, but what Effect the great gun had I know not, for this was not fir’d until they were going away.

    [At Mercury Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

    At 10, the weather Clearing up a little, I went with 2 Boats to sound the Bay and to look for a more convenient Anchoring place, the Master being in one Boat, and I in the other.

    We pull’d first over the North Shore, where some Canoes came out to meet us, but as we came near them they retir’d to the Shore and invited us to follow them, but seeing they were all Arm’d I did not think fit to Except of their Invitation; but after Trading with them out of the Boat for a few Minutes we left them and went towards the head of the Bay.

    I observed on a high Point a fortified Village, but I could only see a part of the works, and as I intend to see the whole, shall say no more about it at this time.

    After having fix’d upon an Anchoring place not far from where the Ship lay I return’d on board.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  134. 5 November 1769

    Anchored Near the River in the Bay

    Winds at North-North-West, hazey weather with rain in the night.

    At 4 p.m. weigh’d and run in nearer the South shore and Anchor’d in 4 1/2 fathoms, a soft sandy bottom, the South point of the Bay bearing East, distant 1 Mile, and a River (into which the boats can go at low Water) South-South-East, distant 1 1/2 Miles.* (* The bight in which the Endeavour anchored is now known as Cook Bay.)

    In the morning the Natives came off again to the Ship, but their behaviour was very different to what it was Yesterday morning, and the little traffick we had with them was carried on very fair and friendly. Two came on board the Ship—to each I gave a Piece of English Cloth and some Spike Nails.

    After the Natives were gone I went with the Pinnace and Long boat into the River to haul the Sean, and sent the Master to sound the Bay and drudge for fish in the Yawl. We hauled the Sean in several places in the River, but caught only a few Mullet, with which we returned on board about Noon.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  135. 6 November 1769

    Unsuccessful Fishing but Trade with Natives

    Moderate breezes at North-North-West, and hazey weather with rain in the night.

    P.M. I went to another part of the Bay to haul the Sean, but meet with as little Success as before; and the Master did not get above 1/2 a Bucket full of Shells with the Drudge. The Natives brought to the Ship, and sold to our People, small Cockles, Clams, and Mussels, enough for all hands.

    These are found in great plenty upon the Sand Banks of the River. In the morning I sent the Long boat to Trawl in the Bay, and one Officer with the Marines and a party of men to Cut wood and haul the Sean, but neither the Sean nor the Trawl meet with any success.

    But the Natives in some measure made up for this by bringing several Baskets of dry’d or ready dress’d fish; altho’ it was none of the best I order’d it all to be bought up in order to encourage them to Trade.

  136. 7 November 1769

    Watering and Gathering Sellery

    The first part moderate and fair; the remainder a fresh breeze, northerly, with dirty, hazey, raining Weather. P.M. got on board a Long boat Load of Water, and Caught a dish of fish in the Sean. Found here a great Quantity of Sellery, which is boild every day for the Ship’s Company as usual.

  137. 8 November 1769

    Heeling, Scrubbing, and Trading for Fish

    P.M. fresh breeze at North-North-West and hazey, rainy weather; the remainder a Gentle breeze at West-South-West and Clear Weather. A.M. heeld and Scrubb’d both sides of the Ship and Sent a Party of Men ashore to Cutt wood and fill Water. The Natives brought off to the Ship, and Sold us for Small pieces of Cloth, as much fish as served all hands; they were of the Mackrell kind, and as good as ever was Eat. At Noon I observ’d the Sun’s Meridian Zenith distance, by the Astronomical Quadrant, which gave the Latitude 36 degrees 47 minutes 43 seconds South; this was in the River before mentioned, that lies within the South Entrance of the Bay.

  138. 9 November 1769

    Transit of Mercury and a Fatal Misunderstanding

    Variable light breezes and Clear weather.

    As soon as it was daylight the Natives began to bring off Mackrell, and more than we well know what to do with; notwithstanding I order’d all they brought to be purchased in order to encourage them in this kind of Traffick.

    At 8, Mr. Green and I went on shore with our Instruments to observe the Transit of Mercury, which came on at 7 hours 20 minutes 58 seconds Apparent time, and was observed by Mr. Green only.* (* Mr. Green satirically remarks in his Log, “Unfortunately for the seamen, their look-out was on the wrong side of the sun.” This probably refers to Mr. Hicks, who was also observing. It rather seems, however, as if Cook, on this occasion, was caught napping by an earlier appearance of the planet than was expected.)

    I, at this time, was taking the Sun’s Altitude in order to Ascertain the time. The Egress was observed as follows:–

    By Mr. Green: Internal Contact at 12 hours 8 minutes 58 seconds Afternoon. External Contact at 12 hours 9 minutes 55 seconds Afternoon.

    By myself: Internal Contact at 12 hours 8 minutes 45 seconds Afternoon. External Contact at 12 hours 9 minutes 43 seconds Afternoon.

    Latitude observed at noon 36 degrees 48 minutes 28 seconds, the mean of this and Yesterday’s observation gives 36 degrees 48 minutes 5 1/2 seconds South; the Latitude of the Place of Observation, and the Variation of the Compass was at this time found to be 11 degrees 9 minutes East.

    While we were making these observations 5 Canoes came alongside the Ship, 2 Large and 3 Small ones, in one were 47 People, but in the other not so many. They were wholy strangers to us, and to all appearance they came with a Hostile intention, being compleatly Arm’d with Pikes, Darts, Stones, etc.; however, they made no attempt, and this was very probable owing to their being inform’d by some other Canoes (who at this time were alongside selling fish) what sort of people they had to Deal with.

    When they first came alongside they begun to sell our people some of their Arms, and one Man offer’d to Sale a Haahow, that is a Square Piece of Cloth such as they wear. Lieutenant Gore, who at this time was Commanding Officer, sent into the Canoe a piece of Cloth which the Man had agreed to Take in Exchange for his, but as soon as he had got Mr. Gore’s Cloth in his Possession he would not part with his own, but put off the Canoe from alongside, and then shook their Paddles at the People in the Ship.

    Upon this, Mr. Gore fir’d a Musquet at them, and, from what I can learn, kill’d the Man who took the Cloth; after this they soon went away. I have here inserted the account of this Affair just as I had it from Mr. Gore, but I must own it did not meet with my approbation, because I thought the Punishment a little too severe for the Crime, and we had now been long Enough acquainted with these People to know how to Chastise Trifling faults like this without taking away their Lives.

  139. 10 November 1769

    Examining the River in Bad Weather

    P.M., Gentle breezes and Variable; the remainder, a Strong breeze at East-North-East, and hazey weather. A.M., I went with 2 Boats, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the other Gentlemen into the River which Emptys itself into the head of the Bay, in order to Examine it; none of the Natives came off to the Ship this morning, which we think is owing to bad weather.

  140. 11 November 1769

    Exploration of the River and Native Fortifications

    Fresh Gales at East-North-East, and Cloudy, hazey weather with rain.

    Between 7 and 8 o’Clock p.m. I returnd on board from out the River, having been about 4 or 5 Miles up it, and could have gone much farther had the weather been favourable. I landed on the East side and went upon the Hills, from whence I saw, or at least I thought I saw, the head of the River. It here branched into several Channels, and form’d a Number of very low flat Islands, all cover’d with a sort of Mangrove Trees, and several places of the Shores of both sides the River were Cover’d with the same sort of wood.

    The sand banks were well stored with Cockles and Clams, and in many places were Rock Oysters. Here is likewise pretty plenty of Wild Fowl, such as Shags, Ducks, Curlews, and a Black bird, about as big as a Crow, with a long, sharp bill of a Colour between Red and Yellow; we also saw fish in the River, but of what sort I know not. The Country especially on the East side is barren, and for the most part destitute of wood, or any other signs of Fertility; but the face of the country on the other side looked much better, and is in many places cover’d with wood.

    We meet with some of the Natives and saw several more, and Smokes a long way inland, but saw not the least signs of Cultivation, either here or in any other part about the Bay, so that the inhabitants must live wholy on shell and other fish, and Fern roots, which they Eat by the way of Bread. In the Entrance of this river, and for 2 or 3 Miles up, it is very safe and Commodious Anchoring in 3, 4, and 5 fathoms, and Convenient places for laying a Ship aShore, where the Tide rises and falls about 7 feet at full and Change. I could not see whether or no any considerable fresh Water Stream came out of the Country into this river, but there are a number of small Rivulets which come from the Adjacent hills.

    [A little within the Entrance of the River on the East side is a high point or peninsula juting out into the River on which are the Remains of one of their Fortified towns.]

    The Situation is such that the best Engineer in Europe could not have Chose a better for a Small Number of men to defend themselves against a greater; it is strong by Nature and made more so by Art. It is only Accessible on the land Side, and there have been cut a Ditch and a Bank raised on the inside. From the Top of the Bank to the Bottom of the Ditch was about 22 feet, and depth of the Ditch on the land side 14 feet; its breadth was in proportion to its depth, and the whole seem’d to have been done with great Judgment.

    There had been a row of Pickets on the Top of the Bank, and another on the outside of the Ditch; these last had been set deep in the ground and Sloping with their upper ends hanging over the Ditch. The whole had been burnt down, so that it is probable that this place had been taken and destroy’d by an Enemy.

    The people on this side of the Bay seem now to have no houses or fix’d habitations, but Sleep in the open Air, under Trees and in small Temporary shades; but to all appearance they are better off on the other side, but there we have not set foot.

    In the morning, being dirty rainy weather, I did not Expect any of the Natives off with fish, but thinking that they might have some ashore I sent a Boat with some Trade, who return’d about noon loaded with Oysters, which they got in the River which is abreast of the Ship, but saw no fish among the Natives.

  141. 12 November 1769

    Visit to a Fortified Village and Observations on Native Warfare

    P.M. had Strong Gales at North-East, and hazey, rainy weather; A.M. a fresh breeze at North-West, and Clear weather. In the morning got on board a Turn of Water, and afterwards sent the Long boat into the River for Oysters to take to sea with us; and I went with the Pinnace and Yawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, over to the North side of the Bay in order to take a View of the Country and the Fortified Village which stands there. We landed about a mile from it, and were meet by the inhabitants in our way thither, who, with a great deal of good nature and friendship, conducted us into the place and shew’d us everything that was there.

    This village is built upon a high Promontory or point on the North side and near the head of the Bay. It is in some places quite inaccessible to man, and in others very difficult, except on that side which faced the narrow ridge of the hill on which it stands. Here it is defended by a double ditch, a bank and 2 rows of Picketing, the inner row upon the Bank; but not so near the Crown but what there was good room for men to Walk and handle their Arms between the Picketing and the inner Ditch.

    The outer Picketing was between the 2 Ditches, and laid sloping with their upper ends hanging over the inner Ditch. The Depth of this Ditch from the bottom to the Crown of the bank was 24 feet. Close within the inner Plcketing was erected by strong Posts a stage 30 feet high and 40 in length and 6 feet broad. The use of this stage was to stand upon to throw Darts at the Assailants, and a number of Darts lay upon it for that purpose.

    At right angles to this Stage and a few paces from it was another of the same Construction and bigness; this stood likewise within the Picketing, and was intended for the same use as the other–viz., to stand upon to throw stones and darts upon the Enemy as they advanc’d up the side of the Hill where lay the Main way into the place. It likewise might be intended to defend some little outworks and hutts that lay at the Skirts and on this side of the Hill.

    These outworks were not intended as advanced Posts, but for such of the Inhabitants to live in as had not room in the Main works, but had taken Shelter under it. Besides the works on the land side, above described, the whole Villiage was Pallisaded round with a line of pretty strong Picketing run round the Edge of the hill.

    The ground within having not been level at first, but laid Sloping, they had divided it into little squares and Leveled each of these. These squares lay in the form of an Amphitheatre, and were each of them Pallisaded round, and had communication one with another by narrow lanes and little gateways, which could easily be stoped up. So that if an Enemy had forced the outer Picketing he had several others to incounter before the place could be easily reduced, supposing them to defend everyone of the places one after another.

    The main way leading into this fortification was up a very steep part of the Hill and thro’ a narrow passage about 12 feet long and under one of the Stages. I saw no door nor gate, but it might very soon have been barricaded up. Upon the whole I looked upon it to be very strong and well choose Post, and where a small number of resolute men might defend themselves a long time against a vast superior force, Arm’d in the manner as these People are.

    These seem’d to be prepared against a Siege, having laid up in store an immense quantity of Fern roots and a good many dry’d fish; but we did not see that they had any fresh Water nearer than a brook which runs close under the foot of a hill, from which I suppose they can at times get water, tho’ besiged, and keep it in gouards until they use it. Under the foot of the point on which the Village stands are 2 Rocks, the one just broke off from the Main and other detatched a little from it. They are both very small, and more fit for Birds to inhabit than men; yet there are houses and places of defence on each of them, and about a Mile to Eastward of these is another of these small Fortified rocks, which communicates with the Main by a Narrow pathway, where there is a small Villiage of the Natives.

    Many works of this kind we have seen upon small Islands and Rocks and Ridges of hills on all parts of the Coast, besides a great number of Fortified towns, to all appearances Vastly superior to this I have described. From this it should seem that the People must have long and frequent Warrs, and must have been long accustomed to it, otherwise they never would have invented such strong holds as these, the Erecting of which must cost them immense labour, considering the Tools they have to work with, which are only made of Wood and Stone.

    It is a little strange that with such a Warlike People, as these undoubtedly are, no Omissive weapons are found among them, such as bows and Arrows, Slings, etc., things in themselves so easily invented, and are common in every other part of the world. The Arms they use are long spears or Lances, a Staff about 5 feet long. Some of these are pointed at one end like a Serjeant’s Halberd, others are round and Sharp; the other ends are broad, something like the blade of an Oar.

    They have another sort about 4 1/2 feet long; these are shaped at one End like an Axe, and the other is made with a Sharp point. They have short Truncheons about a foot long, which they call Pattoo Pattoas; some made of wood, some of bone, and others of Stone. Those made of wood are Variously shaped, but those made of bone and Stone are of one shape, which is with a round handle, a broadish blade, which is thickest in the Middle and taper’d to an Edge all round.

    The use of these are to knock Men’s brains out, and to kill them outright after they are wounded; and they are certainly well contrived things for this purpose. Besides these Weapons they Throw stones and Darts; the Darts are 10 or 12 feet long, are made of hard wood, and are barbed at one end. They handle all their Arms with great Agility, particularly their long Pikes or Lances, against which we have no weapon that is an equal match except a Loaded Musquet.

  142. 13 November 1769

    Preparing to Leave Mercury Bay; Discipline Aboard

    P.M., Gentle Breezes at North-West and Clear weather. After taking a Slight View of the Country and Loaded both boats with Sellery, which we found in Great plenty near the Sea beach, we return’d on board about 5 o’Clock. The Long boat at the same time return’d out of the River Loaded as deep as she could swim with Oysters.

    And now I intended to put to Sea in the morning if wind and weather will permit. In the night had the wind at South-East, with rainy, dirty, hazey weather, which continued all day, so that I could not think of Sailing, but thought myself very happy in being in a good Port. Samuel Jones, Seaman, having been confin’d since Saturday last for refusing to come upon deck when all hands were called, and afterwards refused to Comply with the orders of the officers on deck, he was this morning punished with 12 lashes and remited back to confinement.

  143. 14 November 1769

    Bad Weather Continues

    Fresh Gales, Easterly, and rainy, Dirty weather.

  144. 15 November 1769

    Sail from Mercury Bay

    In the evening I went in the Pinnace and landed upon one of the Islands that lies off of the South Head of the Bay, with a view to see if I could discover any sunken rocks or other Dangers lying before the Entrance of the Bay, as there was a pretty large swell at this Time. The Island we landed upon was very small, yet there were upon it a Village, the inhabitants of which received us very friendly. This little Village was laid out in small Oblong squares, and each pailisaded round. The Island afforded no fresh Water, and was only accessible on one side: from this I concluded that it was not choose for any Conveniency it could afford them, but for its Natural Strength.

    At 7 A.M. weigh’d, with a light breeze at West, and clear weather, and made Sail out of the Bay, steering North-East, for the Northermost of a Number of Islands lying off the North point of the Bay. These Islands are of Various extents, and lye Scattered to the North-West in a parallel direction with the Main as far as we could see.

    I was at first afraid to go within them, thinking that there was no safe Passage, but I afterwards thought that we might; and I would have attempted it, but the wind, coming to the North-West, prevented it, so that we were obliged to stand out to Sea.

    At Noon was in the Latitude of 36 degrees 4 minutes South. The Northermost Island, above mentioned, bore North, distant half a League; the Court of Aldermen, South-East by South, distant 6 Leagues; and the Bay Sail’d from, which I have named Mercury Bay, on account of the observation being made there, South-West by West, distant 6 Miles.

    Mercury Bay lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 47 minutes South, and the Longitude of 184 degrees 4 minutes West, from the Meridian of Greenwich. It lies in South-West between 2 and 3 Leagues. There are several Islands lying both to the Southward and Northward of it, and a Small high Island or Rock in the Middle of the Entrance.

    Within this Island the depth of water doth no where Exceed 9 or 8 fathoms; the best Anchorage is in a sandy Bay which lies just within the South head in 5 and 4 fathoms, bringing a high Tower Rock, which lies without the head, in one with the head, or just shut in behind it. Here it is very Convenient Wooding and Watering, and in the River are an immense quantity of Oysters and other small Shell fish; and this is the only thing it is remarkable for, and hath occasioned my giving it the Name of Oyster River.

    But the Snugest and Safest place for a Ship to lay in that wants to stay there any time is in the River at the head of the Bay, and where there is every conveniency the place can afford. To sail up and into it keep the South shore all the way on board. As we did not learn that the Natives had any name for this River, I have called it the River of Mangroves, because of the great quantity of these Trees that are found in it.

    The Country on the South-East side of this River and Bay is very barren, producing little else but Fern, and such other plants as delight in a Poor Soil. The land on the North-West side is pretty well cover’d with wood, the Soil more fertile, and would no doubt produce the Necessarys of Life, was it Cultivated. However, this much must be said against it, that it is not near so Rich nor fertile as the lands we have seen to the Southward; and the same may be said of its inhabitants, who, although pretty numerous, are poor to the highest degree when Compar’d to others we have seen.

    They have no Plantations, but live only on Fern roots and fish; their Canoes are mean, and without ornament, and so are their Houses, or Hutts, and in general everything they have about them. This may be owing to the frequent wars in which they are Certainly ingaged; strong proofs of this we have seen, for the people who resided near the place where we wooded, and who Slept every night in the Open Air, placed themselves in such a manner when they laid down to sleep as plainly shew’d that it was necessary for them to be always upon their Guard.

    They do not own Subjection to Teeratie, the Earadehi, but say that he would kill them was he to come Among them; they confirm the Custom of Eating their Enemies, so that this is a thing no longer to be doubted. I have before observed that many of the People about this bay had no fix’d habitations, and we thought so then, but have since learnt that they have strong holds—or Hippas, as they call them—which they retire to in time of danger.

    We found, thrown upon the Shore in several places in this Bay, a quantity of Iron Sand, which is brought down out of the Country by almost every little fresh-water brook. This proves that there must be of that Ore not far inland. Neither of the Inhabitants of this Place, nor any other where we have been, know the use of Iron or set the least Value upon it, preferring the most Trifling thing we could give them to a Nail, or any sort of Iron Tools. Before we left this bay we cut out upon one of the Trees near the Watering Place the Ship’s Name, date, etc., and, after displaying the English Colours, I took formal possession of the place in the Name of His Majesty.

  145. 16 November 1769

    Among the Islands North of Mercury Bay

    Fresh breezes between the North-West and South-West, and fair weather. At 1 P.M., having got within the Group of Islands which lies off the North head of Mercury Bay, hauld our wind to the Northward, and Kept plying to windward all the day between these Islands and some others laying to the Northward of them, with a View to get under the Main land, the Extream North-West point of which we could see, at Noon, bore West by North, distant 6 or 8 Leagues; Latitude in Per Observation 36 degrees 33 minutes South.

    Note, in speaking of Mercury Bay, I had forgot to mention that the Mangrove Trees found there produce a resinous substance very much like Rosin. Something of this kind, I am told, is found in both the East and West Indies. We found it, at first, in small Lumps upon the Sea Beach, but afterwards found it sticking to the Mangrove Trees, and by that means found out from whence it came.

  146. 17 November 1769

    Squally Winds near Point Mercury

    The fore and Middle parts had fresh Gales between the South-West and West by South, and Squally. Kept plying to windward in order to get under the land.

    At 6 A.M. fetched close under the lee of the Northernmost Island in sight, then Tack’d and Stood to the Southward until 11, when we tack’d and Stood to the Northward. At this time the North head of Mercury Bay, or Point Mercury, bore South-East by East, distant 3 Leagues, being at this time between 2 and 3 Leagues from the Main land, and abreast of a place where there appear’d to be a Harbour;* (* Probably Waikawau Bay) but the heavy squalls which we had from the Land would not permit us to take a nearer View of it, but soon brought us under our Close reeft Topsails.

    At Noon Point Mercury bore South-East, distant 4 Leagues, and the weathermost point of the Main land in sight bore North 60 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Over the North-West side of Mercury Bay is a pretty high round hill, rising sloping from the Shore of the Bay. This hill is very conspicuous from where we now are.

  147. 18 November 1769

    Strong Gales and Encounters off Cape Colville

    First part strong Gales at South-West and South-South-West, with heavy squalls; in the morning had Gentle breezes at South and South-East; towards noon had Whiffling light Airs all round the Compass. Kept plying to windward under close Reeft Topsails until daylight, at which time we had got close under the Main, and the wind coming at South-East we made sail and steer’d North-West by West, as the land lays, keeping close in shore.

    At 6 we passed a small Bay* (* Charles Cove.) wherein there appear’d to be Anchorage, and pretty good Shelter from the Sea Winds, at the Entrance of which lies a Rock pretty high above water. Four Miles farther to the West-North-West is a very Conspicuous promontory or point of land which we got abreast of about 7 o’Clock; it lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 26 minutes South and North 48 degrees West, 9 Leagues from Point Mercury.

    From this point the Land trends West 1/2 South near one League, then South-South-East as far as we could see. Besides the Islands laying without us we could see land round by the South-West as far as North-West, but whether this was the Main or Islands was not possible for us at this Time to determine; the fear of losing the Main land determin’d me to follow its direction.

    With this View we hauld round the point* (* Cape Colville.) and steer’d to the Southward, but meeting with Whiffling light Airs all round the Compass, we made but little progress until noon, when we found ourselves by Observation in the Latitude of 36 degrees 29 minutes South; a small Island* (* Channel Island.) which lays North-West 4 Miles from the Promontory above-mentioned bore North by East, distant 6 1/2 Miles, being at this time about 2 Miles from the Shore.

    While we lay under the land 2 large Canoes came off to us; in one of them were 62 people; they staid about us some time, then began to throw stones into the Ship, upon which I fir’d a Musquet ball thro’ one of the Canoes. After this they retir’d ashore.

  148. 19 November 1769

    Anchored at the Entrance of a Great Inlet

    At 1 p.m. a breeze sprung up at East, which afterwards came to North-East, and with it we steer’d along shore South by East and South-South-East, having from 25 to 18 fathoms Water.

    At half past 7, having run 7 or 8 Leagues since Noon, we Anchor’d in 23 fathoms, not choosing to run any farther in the Dark, having the land on both sides of us forming the Entrance of a Streight, Bay, or River, lying in South by East, for on that point of the Compass we could see no land.

    At daylight A.M., the wind being still favourable, we weighed and run under an easy sail up the inlet, keeping nearest the East side. Soon after we had got under Sail 3 large Canoes came off to the Ship, and several of the people came on board upon the very first invitation; this was owing to their having heard of our being upon the Coast and the manner we had treated the Natives.

    I made each of those that came on board a small present, and after about an hour’s stay they went away well satisfied. After having run 5 Leagues from the place where we Anchor’d last night our depth of water gradually decreased to 6 fathoms, and into less I did not choose to go; and as the wind blew right up the inlet and tide of flood, we came to an Anchor nearly in the middle of the Channel, which is here about 11 Miles over, and after this sent 2 Boats to sound, the one on one side and the other on the other side.

  149. 20 November 1769

    Exploring the River at the Head of the Inlet

    Moderate breezes at South-South-East and fair weather. At 2 p.m. the boats return’d from sounding, not having found above 3 feet more water than where we now lay. Upon this I resolved to go no farther with the Ship but to examine the head of the Bay in the Boat, for as it appear’d to run a good way inland, I thought this a good opportunity to see a little of the interior part of the Country and its produce.

    Accordingly at daylight in the morning I set out with the Pinnace and Long boat accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia. We found the inlet end in a River, about 9 miles above the Ship, into which we enter’d with the first of the flood, and before we had gone 3 miles up it found the Water quite fresh.

    We saw a number of Natives and landed at one of their Villages, the inhabitants of which received us with open Arms. We made but a short stay with them but proceeded up the river until near Noon, when finding the face of the country to continue pretty much the same, and no alteration in the Course or stream of the River or the least probability of seeing the end of it, we landed on the West side in order to take a View of the lofty Trees which adorn its banks.

    Being at this time 12 or 14 Miles within the Entrance, here the Tide of Flood runs as strong as it does in the River Thames below bridge.

  150. 21 November 1769

    Exploring and Naming the Thames River

    After landing as above-mention’d, we had not gone a hundred yards into the woods before we found a Tree that girted 19 feet 8 inches, 6 feet above the ground, and having a Quadrant with me, I found its length from the root to the first branch to be 89 feet. It was as straight as an arrow and taper’d but very little in proportion to its length, so that I judged there was 356 solid feet of timber in this Tree, clear of the branches.

    We saw many others of the same sort, several of which were taller than the one we measured, and all of them very stout; there were likewise many other sorts of very stout Timber Trees, all of them wholly unknown to any of us. We brought away a few specimens, and at 3 o’Clock we embarqued in order to return (but not before we had named this river the Thames, *(The flourishing town of Thames now stands at the eastern entrance of the river: population nearly 5000. Gold is found in the vicinity.)), on account of its bearing some resemblance to that river in England.

    On board with the very first of the Ebb, in our return down the river, the inhabitants of the Village where we landed in going, seeing that we return’d by another Channel, put off in their Canoes and met us and trafficked with us in the most friendly manner imaginable, until they had disposed of the few trifles they had.

    The tide of Ebb just carried us out of the narrow part of the River into the Sea reach, as I may call it, where meeting with the flood and a strong breeze at North-North-West obliged us to come to a Grapnel, and we did not reach the Ship until 7 o’Clock in the A.M. Intending to get under sail at high water, the Long boat was sent to take up the Kedge Anchor, but it blew so strong that she could not reach the Buoy, and the gale increasing soon obliged us to veer away more Cable and strike Top Gallant Yards.

  151. 22 November 1769

    Plying Down the Thames River

    Winds at North-North-West. The A.M. fresh Gales and hazey with rain; the remainder, moderate and clear. At 3 p.m. the tide of Ebb making, we took up our anchors and got under sail and ply’d down the River until 8 o’Clock, when we again came to an anchor in 7 fathoms, muddy bottom.

    At 3 a.m. weigh’d with the first of the Ebb and kept plying until the flood obliged us to anchor again. After this I went in the Pinnace over to the Western Shore, but found there neither inhabitants nor anything else worthy of note.

    At the time I left the Ship a good many of the Natives were alongside and on board trafficking with our people for such trifles as they had, and seem’d to behave as well as people could do. But one of them took the 1/2 hour glass out of the Bittacle, and was caught in the very fact, for which Mr. Hicks, who was Commanding Officer, brought him to the Gangway and gave him a dozen lashes with a cat of nine tails.

    The rest of the people seem’d not displeased at it when they came to know what it was for, and some old man beat the fellow after he had got into his Canoe; however, soon after this they all went away.

  152. 23 November 1769

    Light Breezes and Slow Progress

    P.M. Gentle breezes at North-North-West and fair weather. Between 3 and 4 o’Clock got under Sail with the first of the Ebb and ply’d to windward until 9 when we anchor’d in 16 fathoms over upon the East shore. In the night had light Airs and Calm; at 3 A.M. weighed but had little or no wind until near noon, when a light breeze sprung up at North-North-West. At this time we were close under the West shore in 7 fathoms Water; Latitude 36 degrees 51 minutes South.

  153. 24 November 1769

    Fresh Gales and Exit from the River Thames

    P.M., fresh gales and dark, cloudy, squally weather, with thunder, lightning, and rain. Winds from the North-West to the South-West, and this last carried us by 7 o’Clock without the North-West point of the river. But the weather being bad and having land on all sides of us, and a dark night coming on, I thought it most advisable to tack and stretch in under the point, where we anchor’d in 19 fathoms.

    At 5 a.m. weigh’d and made sail to the North-West under our courses and double reef’d topsails, the wind being at South-West by West and West-South-West, a strong gale and squally, blowing right off the land, which would not permit us to come near it. From the time of our getting under sail until noon (during which time we ran 12 leagues) we had but a slight and distant view of the coast and were not able to distinguish whether the points we saw were parts of the Main or Islands lying before it, for we never once lost sight of the Main land.* (* The Endeavour was now in Hauraki Gulf and had passed the harbour where Auckland now stands, which is hidden behind a number of islands.)

    At noon our latitude by observation was 36 degrees 15 minutes 20 seconds South, being at this time not above 2 miles from a point of land on the Main and 3 1/2 leagues from a very high island* (* Little Barrier Island, now (1892) about to be made a reserve to protect native fauna.) which bore North-East by East of us; in this situation had 26 fathoms water. The farthest point we could see on the Main bore from us North-West, but we could see several small islands lying to the northward of that direction.

    The point of land we are now abreast of I take to be the North-West extremity of the River Thames, for I shall comprehend under that name the deep bay we have been in for this week past, the North-East point of which is the promontory we passed on Saturday morning last, and which I have named Cape Colvill in honour of the Right Hon’ble the Lord Colvill;* (* Cook had served under Rear Admiral Lord Colville in Newfoundland.) latitude 36 degrees 26 minutes South; longitude 184 degrees 27 minutes West. It rises directly from the sea to a considerable height, but what makes it most remarkable is a high rock standing close to the pitch of the point, and from some points of view may be distinguished at a very great distance.

    From the South-West point of this Cape the river extends itself in a direct line South by East, and is nowhere less than 3 leagues broad until you are 14 leagues above the Cape; there it is at once contracted to a narrow stream. From this place it still continues the same South by East course through a low flat country or broad valley that lies parallel with the sea coast, the end of which we could not see.

    The land on the East side of the broadest part of this river is tolerable high and hilly, that on the West side is rather low, but the whole is cover’d with woods and verdure and looks to be pretty fertile, though we saw but a few small places that were cultivated. About the entrance of the narrow part of the river the land is mostly cover’d with mangroves and other shrubs, but farther in are immense woods of as stout lofty timber as is to be found perhaps in any other part of the world.

    In many places the woods grow close upon the very banks of the river, but where they do not the land is marshy such as we find about the Thames in England. We saw poles stuck up in many places in the river to set nets for catching of fish; from this we imagined that there must be plenty of fish, but of what sort we know not, for we saw none. The greatest depth of water we found was 26 fathoms and it decreases pretty gradually as you run up to 1 1/2 and 1 fathom.

    In the mouth of the fresh-water stream or narrow part is 3 and 4 fathoms, but before this are sandbanks and large flats; yet I believe a ship of a moderate draught of water may go a long way up this river with a flowing tide, for I reckon that the tides rise upon a perpendicular near 10 feet, and it is high water at the full and change of the Moon about 9 o’Clock.

    Six leagues within Cape Colvill, under the eastern shore, are several small islands. These islands together with the Main seem’d to form some good harbours.* (* Coromandel Harbour.) Opposite to these islands under the western shore lies some other islands, and it appear’d very probable that these form’d some good harbours likewise.* (* Auckland Harbour is one of them.)

    But even supposing there were no harbours about this river, it is good anchoring in every part of it where the depth of water is sufficient, being defended from the sea by a chain of large and small islands which I have named Barrier Isles, lying across the mouth of it extending themselves North-West and South-East 10 leagues.

    The south end of these islands lies North-East 4 1/2 leagues from the North-West point of the river, which I have named Point Rodney; it lies West-North-West 9 leagues from Cape Colvill, latitude 36 degrees 15 minutes; longitude 184 degrees 58 minutes West.

    The Natives residing about this river do not appear to be very numerous considering the great extent of country; at least not many came off to the ship at one time, and as we were but little ashore ourselves we could not so well judge of their numbers. They are a strong, well-made, active people as any we have seen yet, and all of them paint their bodies with red ochre and oil from head to foot, a thing that we have not seen before. Their canoes are large, well built, and ornamented with carved work in general as well as most we have seen.

  154. 25 November 1769

    Bream Bay and Abundant Catch

    P.M., had fresh gales at South-West and squally weather. We kept standing along shore to the North-West, having the Main land on one side and Islands on the other; our soundings were from 26 to 12 fathoms. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. we anchor’d in a Bay in 14 fathoms, sandy bottom. We had no sooner come to an anchor than we caught between 90 and 100 Bream (a fish so called), this occasioned my giving this place the name of Bream Bay.* (* Whangarei Bay.)

    The two points which form this Bay lie North and South 5 leagues from each other. The Bay is everywhere pretty broad and between 3 and 4 leagues deep; at the bottom of it there appears to be a fresh-water river.* (* Whangarei River. The district is very fertile. Coal mines are in the vicinity, and coal is exported.) The North head of the Bay, called Bream Head, is high land and remarkable on account of several peaked rocks ranged in order upon the top of it; it lies in the latitude 35 degrees 46 minutes South and North 41 degrees West, distant 17 1/2 leagues from Cape Colvill.

    This Bay may likewise be known by some small islands lying before it called the Hen and Chickens, one of which is pretty high and terminates at top in two peaks. The land between Point Rodney and Bream Head, which is 10 leagues, is low and wooded in turfs, and between the sea and the firm land are white sand banks. We saw no inhabitants but saw fires in the night, a proof that the country is not uninhabited.

    At daylight A.M. we left the Bay and directed our course along shore to the northward, having a gentle breeze at South by West and clear weather. A little after sunrise found the variation to be 12 degrees 42 minutes Easterly. At noon our latitude by observation was 36 degrees 36 minutes South; Bream Head bore South, distant 10 miles; some small islands (Poor Knights) at North-East by North, distant 3 leagues; and the northermost land in sight bore North-North-West, being at this time 2 miles from the shore, and in this situation had 26 fathoms. The land hereabout is rather low and pretty well cover’d with wood and seems not ill inhabited.

  155. 26 November 1769

    Troublesome Visitors Along the Northern Shore

    P.M., gentle breezes between the East-North-East and North, kept ranging along shore to the Northward. At the distance of 4 or 5 miles off saw several villages and some cultivated lands; towards evening several canoes came off to us, and some of the natives ventur’d on board. To two, who appear’d to be chiefs, I gave presents.

    After these were gone out of the ship, the others became so troublesome that, in order to get rid of them, we were at the expense of 2 or 3 musquet balls, and one 4-pound shott; but as no harm was intended them, none they received, unless they happen’d to overheat themselves in pulling on shore.

    In the night had variable light airs, but towards morning had a light breeze at South, and afterward at South-East; with this we proceeded slowly to the Northward. At 6 a.m. several canoes came off from the place where they landed last night, and between this and noon many more came from other parts. Had at one time a good many of the people on board, and about 170 alongside; their behaviour was tolerable friendly, but we could not prevail upon them to traffic with us.

    At noon, the mainland extending from South by East to North-West by West; a remarkable point of land bore West, distant 4 or 5 miles. Latitude observed 35 degrees 11 minutes South.

  156. 27 November 1769

    Cape Brett and the Cavally Islands

    P.M., gentle breezes Easterly, and clear weather. At 3 passed the point of land afore-mentioned, which I have named Cape Brett in honour of Sir Piercy.* (* Rear Admiral Sir Piercey Brett was one of the Lords of the Admiralty when the Endeavour sailed.) The land of this Cape is considerably higher than any part of the adjacent coast. At the very point of the Cape is a high round hillock, and North-East by North, near one mile from this, is a small high island or rock with a hole pierced through it like the arch of a bridge, and this was one reason why I gave the Cape the above name, because Piercy seemed very proper for that of the Island.

    This Cape, or at least some part of it, is called by the Natives Motugogogo; Latitude 35 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds South, Longitude 185 degrees 25 minutes West. On the West side of Cape Brett is a large and pretty deep bay* (* The Bay of Islands.) lying in South-West by West, in which there appeared to be several small islands. The point that forms the North-West entrance I have named Point Pocock; it lies West 1/4 North, 3 or 4 leagues from Cape Brett.

    On the South-West side of this bay we saw several villages situated both on islands and on the mainland, from whence came off to us several large canoes full of people, but, like those that had been alongside before, would not enter into a friendly traffick with us, but would cheat whenever they had an opportunity. The people in these canoes made a very good appearance, being all stout, well-made men, having their hair—black—combed up and tied upon the crown of their heads, and there stuck with white feathers.

    In each of the canoes were 2 or 3 chiefs, and the habits of these were rather superior to any we had yet seen. The cloth they wore was of the best sort, and covered on the outside with dog skins put on in such a manner as to look agreeable enough to the eye. Few of these people were tattow’d or marked in the face, like those we have seen farther to the South, but several had their backsides tattow’d much in the same manner as the inhabitants of the Islands within the Tropics.

    In the course of this day, that is this afternoon and yesterday forenoon, we reckoned that we had not less than 400 or 500 of the Natives alongside and on board the ship, and in that time did not range above 6 or 8 leagues of the sea coast, a strong proof that this part of the country must be well inhabited. In the evening, the wind came to the westward of north, and we tack’d and stood off North-East until 11 o’clock, when the wind coming more favourable we stood again to the westward.

    At 8 a.m. we were within a mile of groups of islands lying close under the mainland and North-West by West 1/2 West, distance 22 miles from Cape Brett. Here we lay for near 2 hours, having little or no wind. During this time several canoes came off to the ship, and 2 or 3 of them sold us some fish—Cavallys as they are called—which occasioned my giving the islands the same name.

    After this some others began to pelt us with stones, and would not desist at the firing of 2 musquet balls through one of their boats; at last I was obliged to pepper 2 or 3 fellows with small shott, after which they retired, and the wind coming at North-West we stood off to sea. At noon, Cavally Islands bore South-West by South, distant 4 miles; Cape Brett South-East, distant 7 leagues, and the westernmost land in sight, making like islands, bore West by North; Latitude in per observation 34 degrees 55 minutes South.

  157. 28 November 1769

    Beating Against the Wind near Cape Brett

    A Fresh breeze from the Westward all this day, which being right in our teeth, we kept beating to windward with all the sail we could Crowd, but instead of Gaining we lost ground. A.M., being close in with the land to the Westward of the Bay, which lies on this side of Cape Brett, we saw at some distance inland 2 pretty large Villages Pallisaded in the same manner as others we have seen. At noon, Cape Brett South-East by East 1/2 East, distant 6 Leagues; Latitude observed 35 degrees 0 minutes South.

  158. 29 November 1769

    Anchored in the Bay of Islands

    Fresh gales at North-West and West-North-West, kept plying to windward until 7 a.m., and finding that we lost ground every board we made, I thought I could not do better than to bear up for the Bay, which lies to the Westward of Cape Brett, it being at this time not above 2 leagues to leeward of us; for by putting in there we should gain some knowledge of it, on the contrary, by keeping the sea with a contrary wind, we were sure of meeting with nothing new.

    These reasons induced me to bear away for the Bay,* (* The Bay of Islands.) and at 11 o’clock we anchor’d under the South-West side of one of the many islands* (* Motu Arohia.) that line the South-East side of it, in 4 1/2 fathoms; but as we fell into this shoal’d water all at once, we anchor’d sooner than was intended, and sent the Master with 2 boats to sound, who found that we had got upon a bank that spitted off from the North-West end of the island, and that on the outside of it was 8 and 10 fathoms water.

  159. 30 November 1769

    Encounter with the Natives in the Bay of Islands

    P.M., had the winds westerly, with some very heavy showers of rain.

    We had no sooner come to an anchor than between 300 and 400 of the natives assembled in their canoes about the ship; some few were admitted on board, and to one of the chiefs I gave a piece of broad cloth and distributed a few nails, etc., among some others of them. Many of these people had been off to the ship when we were at sea, and seem’d to be very sensible of the use of firearms, and in the trade we had with them they behaved tolerable well, but continued so not long, before some of them wanted to take away the buoy,* (* The buoy on the anchor.) and would not desist at the firing of several musquets until one of them was hurt by small shot, after which they withdrew a small distance from the ship.

    This was thought a good opportunity to try what effect a great gun would have, as they paid so little respect to a musquet, and accordingly one was fir’d over their heads. This, I believe, would have sent them quite off, if it had not been for Tupia, who soon prevail’d on them to return to the ship, when their behaviour was such as gave us no room to suspect that they meant to give us any farther trouble.

    After the ship was moved into deeper water I went with the pinnace and yawl, mann’d and arm’d, and landed upon the island, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander.

    We had scarce landed before all the canoes left the ship and landed at different parts of the island, and before we could well look about us we were surrounded by 2 or 300 people. Notwithstanding that they were all arm’d, they came upon us in such a confused, straggling manner that we hardly suspected they meant us any harm; but we were soon undeceived, for upon our endeavouring to draw a line on the sand between us and them they set up the war dance, and immediately some of them attempted to seize the 2 boats.

    Being disappointed in this, they next attempted to break in upon us, upon which I fir’d a musquet loaded with small shott at one of the forwardest of them, and Mr. Banks and 2 of the men fir’d immediately after. This made them retire a little, but in less than a minute one of the chiefs rallied them again. Dr. Solander fired upon him with small shott, which sent him off and made them retire a second time. They attempted to rally several times, and only seemed to want some one of resolution to head them; but they were at last entirely dispers’d by the ship firing a few shott over their heads and a musquet now and then from us.

    In this skirmish only one or two of them were hurt with small shott, for I avoided killing any one of them as much as possible, and for that reason withheld our people from firing. We had observed that some had hid themselves in a cave in one of the rocks, and sometime after the whole was over we went towards them. The chief who had been on board the ship happened to be one of these; he, his wife, and another came out to meet us, but the rest made off. Those three sat down by us, and we gave them such things as we had about us.

    After this we went to another part of the island, where some of the inhabitants came to us and were as meek as lambs. Having taken a view of the bay from the island and loaded both boats with sellery, which we found here in great plenty, we return’d on board. At 4 a.m. we hove up the anchor in order to put to sea, with a light breeze at east, but it soon falling calm obliged us to come to again. About 8 or 9 o’clock, seeing no probability of our getting to sea, I sent the master to sound the harbour.

    Before this I order’d Matthew Cox, Henry Stevens, and Emanl Parreyra to be punished with a dozen lashes each for leaving their duty when ashore last night and digging up potatoes out of one of the plantations.* (* Cook’s care to deal fairly with natives is evinced by this punishment.) The first of the three I remitted back to confinement because he insisted that there was no harm in what he had done. All this forenoon had abundance of the natives about the ship and some few on board. We trafficked with them for a few trifles, in which they dealt very fair and friendly.

  160. 1 December 1769

    Friendly Encounters and Shore Excursion

    Winds at North-North-West, a gentle breeze. At 3 p.m., the boats having return’d from sounding, I went with them over to the south side of the harbour and landed upon the main, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander.

    We met with nothing new or remarkable. The place where we landed was in a small sandy cove, where there are two small streams of fresh water and plenty of wood for fuel. Here were likewise several little plantations planted with potatoes and yams.

    The soil and natural produce of the country was much the same as what we have hitherto met with. The people we saw behaved to us with great marks of friendship.

    In the evening we had some very heavy showers of rain, and this brought us on board sooner than we intended. A.M., the wind being still contrary, I sent some people ashore upon the island to cut grass for our sheep, in the doing of which the inhabitants gave them no sort of disturbance, and in the same friendly manner did those behave that were alongside the ship. Punished Matthew Cox with six lashes, and then dismiss’d him.

  161. 2 December 1769

    Strong Gales and Heavy Rain

    Winds at North-West and North. P.M. a Gentle breeze; the remainder Strong Gales and hazey, with much rain towards Noon. At 8 a.m. hoisted out the Long boat, and sent her ashore for water, and the Pinnace to haul the Sean; but they had not got well ashore before it began to blow and rain very hard. This occasioned them to return on board with one Turn of water and but a very few fish.

  162. 3 December 1769

    Strong Gales and Harbour Soundings

    P.M., Strong Gales at North, with rain; the remainder Gentle breezes from the Westward. A.M., sent 2 Boats to sound the Harbour and one to haul the Sean, the latter of which met with very little Success.

  163. 4 December 1769

    Exploration of the Islands and Mainland

    Gentle breezes at North-West, West-North-West, and West; very fair weather.

    P.M., Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself landed upon one of the islands* (* Probably Motu-Rua.) on the north side of the one the ship lays under. This island is about three miles in circuit and hath upon it forty or fifty acres of land cultivated and planted with roots; here are likewise several small streams of excellent water. This island, as well as most others in this bay, seems to be well inhabited.

    At 4 a.m. sent the long boat to the above island for water and some hands to cut grass, and at 9 I went with the pinnace and yawl over upon the main, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. In our way we passed by a point of land on which stood a Hippa, or fortified village, the inhabitants of which waved us to come ashore, and accordingly we landed; which we had no sooner done than the people came about us with quantities of various sorts of fish, which we purchased of them for mere trifles.

    After this they showed us the village, which was a neat, compact place, and its situation well chosen. There were two or three more near unto this, but these we did not go to. We afterwards went a little way into the country, and had some of the natives along with us; we met with a good deal of cultivated land, planted mostly with sweet potatoes. The face of the country appear’d green and pleasant, and the soil seem’d to be pretty rich and proper for cultivation. The land is everywhere about this bay of a moderate height, but full of small hills and valleys, and not much incumbered with wood.

    We met with about half a dozen cloth plants, being the same as the inhabitants of the islands lying within the tropics make their finest cloth on. This plant must be very scarce among them, as the cloth made from it is only worn in small pieces by way of ornaments at their ears, and even this we have seen but very seldom. Their knowing the use of this sort of cloth doth in some measure account for the extraordinary fondness they have shown for it above every other thing we had to give them.

    Even a sheet of white paper is of more value than so much English cloth of any sort whatever; but, as we have been at few places where I have not given away more or less of the latter, it’s more than probable that they will soon learn to set a value upon it, and likewise upon iron — a thing not one of them knows the use of or sets the least value upon. But was European commodities in ever such esteem among them, they have no one thing of equal value to give in return, at least that we have seen.

  164. 5 December 1769

    Departure from the Bay of Islands

    P.M., had the winds at South-West and West-South-West, a fresh breeze. At 3 o’clock we return’d on board, and after dinner visited another part of the Bay, but met with nothing new. By the evening all our empty casks were fill’d with water, and had at the same time got on board a large quantity of sellery, which is found here in great plenty. This I still caused to be boiled every morning with oatmeal and portable soup for the ship’s company’s breakfast.

    At 4 a.m. weigh’d with a light breeze at South-East, but had variable light airs and sometimes calm until near noon, when a gentle breeze sprung up at North. At this time we had not got out of the Bay; our latitude by observation was 35 degrees 9 minutes South. This Bay, I have before observed, lies on the west side of Cape Brett: I have named it the Bay of Islands,* (* The principal settlement in the Bay of Islands is Russell…) on account of the great number which line its shores, and these help to form several safe and commodious harbours, wherein is room and depth of water sufficient for any number of shipping.

    The one we lay in is on the south-west side of the south-westermost island, that lies on the south-east side of the Bay. I have made no accurate survey of this Bay; the time it would have required to have done this discouraged me from attempting it; besides, I thought it quite sufficient to affirm with certainty that it affords a good anchorage and every kind of refreshment for shipping, but as this was not the season for roots, we got only fish. Some few we caught ourselves with hook and line and in the sean, but by far the greatest part we purchased of the natives, and these of various sorts, such as sharks, stingrays, breams, mullet, mackerel, and several other sorts.

    Their way of catching them is the same as ours, viz., with hook and line and seans; of the last they have some prodigious large made all of a strong kind of grass. The mackerel are in every respect the same as those we have in England, only some are larger than any I ever saw in any other part of the world; although this is the season for this fish, we have never been able to catch one with hook and line. The inhabitants of this Bay are far more numerous than at any other place we have yet been in, and seem to live in friendship one with another, although it doth not at all appear that they are united under one head.* (* This district was found to be very populous when the missionaries came.)

    They inhabited both the islands and the main, and have a number of hippas, or strongholds, and these are all built in such places as nature hath in a great part fortified, and what she hath left undone the people themselves have finished. It is high water in this Bay at full and change of the moon about 8 o’clock, and the tide at these times rises and falls upon a perpendicular 6 or 8 feet. It appears, from the few observations I have been able to make of the tides on the sea-coast, that the flood comes from the southward, and I have lately had reasons to think that there is a current which comes from the westward and sets along shore to the south-east or south-south-east, as the land lays.

  165. 6 December 1769

    Leaving the Bay of Islands – Ship Strikes a Sunken Rock

    P.M., had a gentle breeze at North-North-West, with which we kept turning out of the Bay, but gain’d little or nothing; in the evening it fell little wind; at 10 o’clock it was calm. At this time the tide or current seting the ship near one of the islands, where we were very near being ashore; but, by the help of our boats and a light air from the Southward, we got clear.

    About an hour after, when we thought ourselves out of all danger, the ship struck upon a sunken rock* (* Called Whale Rock, in Endeavour’s chart.) and went immediately clear without receiving any perceptible damage. Just before the man in the chains had 17 fathoms water, and immediately after she struck 5 fathoms, but very soon deepned to 20.

    This rock lies half-a-mile West-North-West from the northermost or outermost island that lies on the South-East side of the Bay. Had light airs from the land and sometimes calm until 9 o’clock a.m.; at this time we had got out of the Bay, and a breeze springing up at North-North-West, we stood out to sea.

    At noon Cape Brett bore South-South-East 1/2 South, distant 10 miles. Latitude observed, 34 degrees 59 minutes South.

  166. 7 December 1769

    Unfavourable Winds and Lunar Observations

    P.M., a fresh breeze from the Westward and Clear weather. At 3 o’Clock took several Observations of the Sun and Moon; the mean result of them gives 185 degrees 36 minutes West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich. What winds we have had this 24 hours hath been against us, so that at Noon we had advanced but very little to the Westward.

  167. 8 December 1769

    Off the Cavalle Islands

    Forepart of P.M. had a gentle breeze at North-North-West, with which we stood in shore and fetched close under the Cavalle Islands. They are a group of small islands lying close under the Main land, and 7 Leagues North 60 West from Cape Brett, and 3 1/2 Leagues from Point Rodney. From these islands the Main land trends West by North.

    We were here visited by several canoes, and the people in them seem’d desirous of trafficking with us, but at this time a breeze of wind sprung up at South, they could not keep up with the Ship, and I would not wait for them. The wind did not continue long at South before it veer’d to South-West and West, a light breeze.

    Found the variation in the evening to be 12 degrees 42 minutes East, and in the morning 13 degrees East. Keept standing to the West-North-West and North-West until 10 a.m., at which time we tacked and stood in for the shore, being about 5 Leagues off, and in this situation had 118 fathoms water.

    At noon Cape Brett bore South-East, distant 13 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore West by South, being at this time about 4 Leagues from land. Latitude in per observation, 34 degrees 42 minutes South.

  168. 9 December 1769

    Off Doubtless Bay

    P.M., had a gentle breeze at West, which in the evening came to South and continued so all night. This by daylight brought us pretty well in with the land, 7 Leagues to the Westward of the Cavalle Isles, and where lies a deep bay running in South-West by West and West-South-West, the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the land appear’d to be low and level.

    The 2 points which form the entrance lie West-North-West and East-South-East 5 miles from each other. This bay I have named Doubtless Bay;* (* There is a small settlement called Mangonui in Doubtless Bay.) the wind not permitting us to look into this bay, we steer’d for the Westermost land we had in sight, which bore from us West-North-West, distant 3 Leagues.

    Before we got the length of it, it fell calm and continued so until 10 o’clock, when a breeze sprung up at West-North-West, and with it we stood off North. While we lay becalm’d, several of the Natives came off to the Ship in 5 canoes, but were fearful of venturing alongside.

    After these were gone, 6 more came off; these last came boldly alongside and sold us fish of different sorts sufficient to give all hands a little.

    At noon, the Cavalle Islands bore South-East by East, distant 8 Leagues, and the Entrance of Doubtless Bay South by West distant 3 Leagues, and the North-West Extremity of the Land in sight, which we judge to be the Main, bore North-West by West. Our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees 44 minutes South.

  169. 10 December 1769

    Off Sandy Bay

    Had the winds from the Western board all this day, a gentle breeze and clear weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 12 degrees 41 minutes East per Azimuth and 12 degrees 40 minutes by the Amplitude; in the morning we stood close in with the land, 7 Leagues to the westward of Doubtless Bay. Here the shore forms another large open Bay; the bottom of this and Doubtless Bay cannot be far from each other, being to all appearance only separated by a low neck of land, from which juts out a Peninsula or headland, which I have named Knockle Point.

    West by South 6 Leagues from this point, and about the middle of the Bay, is a high mountain or hill standing upon a desart shore, on which account we called it Mount Camel; Latitude 34 degrees 51 minutes; Longitude 186 degrees 50 minutes. In this Bay we had 24 and 25 fathoms water, the bottom good for anchorage, but there seems to be nothing that can induce shipping to put into it, for no country upon Earth can look more barren than the land about this bay doth.

    It is in general low, except the mountain just mentioned, and the soil to all appearance nothing but white sand thrown up in low irregular hills, lying in narrow ridges parallel with the shore; this occasioned me to name it Sandy Bay.* (* Rangaunu Bay.) The first ridge behind the sea beach is partly covered with shrubs, plants, etc., but the second ridge hath hardly any green thing upon it, which induced me to think that it lies open to the Western Sea.* (* This is the fact.)

    As barren as this land appears it is not without inhabitants. We saw a village on this side of Mount Camel and another on the eastern side of the Bay, besides 5 canoes that were pulling off to the Ship, but did not come up with us. At 9 a.m. we tacked and stood to the Northward; at noon, latitude in per observation 34 degrees 38 minutes. The Cavalle Isles bore South-East by East, distant 13 Leagues; the northern extremity of the land in sight, making like an island, bore North-West 1/4 North, distant 9 Leagues, and Mount Camel bore South-West by South, distant 6 Leagues. Tacked and stood in shore.

  170. 11 December 1769

    Light Winds and Pleasant Weather

    Gentle breezes at North. M.d and pleasant weather. Keept plying all the day, but got very little to Windward; at Noon was in the Latitude of 34 degrees 32 minutes South, the Northermost inland set yesterday at noon bore North-West by West, distant 6 or 7 Leagues.

  171. 12 December 1769

    Light Winds and Pleasant Weather

    Moderate breezes of Wind between the North-West and North and Smooth Water, yet we gain’d very little in plying to Windward; at Noon Mount Camel bore South by West 1/4, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 34 minutes South.

  172. 13 December 1769

    Strong Gales and Heavy Rain

    Fore part of P.M., moderate breezes at North by West and fair weather; stood in shore until 5 o’clock, at which time we tack’d and stood to the North-East, being 2 Leagues to the Northward of Mount Camel and 1 1/2 Mile from shore, and in this situation had 22 fathoms water. At 10 it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double reefed top sails; at 12 tack’d and stood to the Westward until 7 A.M., when we tack’d and stood again to the North-East, being at this time about a Mile to windward of the place where we tack’d last night.

    Soon after we tack’d it came on to blow very hard at North-North-West, with heavy squalls attended with rain. This brought us under our courses and split the main topsail in such a manner that it was necessary to unbend it and bring another to the yard. At 10 it fell more moderate, and we set the topsails double reefed.

    At Noon had strong gales and hazey weather; tack’d and stood to the Westward. No land in sight for the first time since we have been upon the coast.

  173. 14 December 1769

    Strong Gales and Heavy Seas off the Northern Coast

    Strong gales at West and West-South-West, with squalls at times attended with rain. At half past 3 P.M. tack’d and stood to the Northward. A small island lying off Knockle Point bore South 1/2 West, distant half a league. In the evening brought the ship under her courses, having first split the fore and mizen topsails.

    At midnight wore and stood to the Southward until 5 a.m., then tack’d and stood to the North-West. At this time saw the land bearing South, distant 8 or 9 leagues; by this we found we had fallen very much to leeward since yesterday morning. Set the topsails close reef’d and the people to dry and repair the damaged sails.

    At noon, a strong gale and clear weather, latitude observed 34 degrees 6 minutes South. Saw land bearing South-West, being the same north-westermost land we have seen before, and which I take to be the northern extremity of this country, as we have now a large swell rolling in from the Westward, which could not well be were we covered by any land on that point of the compass.

  174. 15 December 1769

    Fresh Gales and Heavy Swell from the Westward

    Fresh Gales at South-West, and for the most part clear weather with a large Swell from the Westward. At 8 P.M. Tack’d and Stood to the South-East until 8 a.m., and then Tack’d and stood to the Westward with as much sail as the Ship could bear. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, and Longitude 183 degrees 45 minutes West, and by Estimation about 15 Leagues from the Land notwithstanding we used our utmost Endeavours to keep in with it.

  175. 16 December 1769

    Fresh Breezes and Land in Sight to the South-South-West

    Fresh breezes between the South by West and South-West. Clear weather with a Swell from the Westward. At 6 A.M. saw the land from the Mast Head bearing South-South-West. Got Top Gallant Yards up and set the Sail, unbent the Foresail to repair and brought another to the Yard. At Noon, Latitude observ’d 33 degrees 43 minutes South; Course made since Yesterday Noon North 60 degrees West; distance 56 Miles. The Land in sight bearing South by West, distant 14 Leagues.

  176. 17 December 1769

    Gentle Breeze and Repairs After the Storm

    A Gentle breeze between the South-West by West and West with Clear weather. In standing in Shore sounded several times and had no ground with 90 fathoms of line. At 8 a.m. Tack’d in 108 fathoms 3 or 4 miles from the Shore, being the same point of Land as we had to the North-West of us before we were blown off. At Noon it bore South-West, distant about 3 Miles. Mount Camel bore South by East, distant 11 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore South 75 degrees West; Latitude observ’d 34 degrees 20 minutes South. The people at work repairing the Sails, the most of them having been Split in the late blowing weather.

  177. 18 December 1769

    Currents and Moderate Westerly Breezes

    Moderate breezes at West and West-North-West and Clear weather. At 4 p.m. Tack’d and stood in shore, in doing of which we meet with a Strong rippling, and the Ship fell fast to leeward, occasioned, as we thought, by a Current setting to the Eastward. At 8 Tack’d and stood off North until 8 a.m., when we Tack’d and stood in, being about 10 Leagues from the Land. At Noon the Point of Land we were near to yesterday at noon bore South-South-West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 8 minutes South.

  178. 19 December 1769

    North Cape and the Easterly Current

    The wind still continues at West. P.M., a moderate breeze and clear weather. At 7 tack’d in 35 fathoms; the point of land before mentioned bore North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 miles, having not gained one inch to windward this last 24 hours, which is a great proof that there must be a current setting to the Eastward.* (* This strong easterly current is now well known.)

    The point of land above mentioned I have called North Cape, judging it to be the northermost extremity of this country. It lies in the latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes South and longitude 186 degrees 55 minutes West from Greenwich,* (* This position is very correct.) and North 63 degrees West 31 leagues from Cape Brett. It forms the north point of Sandy Bay, and is a peninsula jutting out north-east about 2 miles, and terminates in a bluff head which is flat at top. The isthmus which joins this head to the mainland is very low, on which account the land off the Cape from several situations makes like an island.

    It appears still more remarkable when to the southward of it by the appearance of a high round island at the south-east point of the Cape; but this is likewise a deception, being a round hill join’d to the Cape by a low, narrow neck of land. On the south-east side of the Cape there appears to be anchorage, and where ships must be covered from south-east and north-west winds. We saw a Hippa or village upon the Cape and some few inhabitants.

    In the night had some squalls attended with rain, which obliged us to take another reef in our topsails. At 8 a.m. tack’d and stood in shore, and being moderate loosed a reef out of each topsail and set the small sails. At noon we were in the latitude of 34 degrees 2 minutes South, and being hazy over the land we did not see it.

  179. 20 December 1769

    Gales Near North Cape

    P.M., Fresh breezes at West by North, and Clear weather. At 6 Tack’d and stood off, North Cape bore South, distant 3 or 4 Miles. At 4 a.m. Tack’d and stood in, Wind at West-North-West a fresh breeze, but at 9 it increased to a Strong Gale with heavy squalls attended with Thunder and Rain, which brought us under our Courses. At 11 it Cleared up and the Wind came to West-South-West; we set the Topsails, double Reef’d and Tack’d and stood to the North-West. At Noon, a Stiff Gale and Clear weather; Latitude observed 34 degrees 14 minutes South. North Cape South-South-West, distant 3 Leagues.

  180. 21 December 1769

    Clear Weather and Heavy Swell

    Fresh breezes at South-West and clear weather with a heavy swell first from the West, then from the South-West. At 8 a.m. loosed the 2nd Reef out of the Topsails; at noon clear weather, no land in sight. The North Cape bore South 25 degrees East, distant 24 Leagues. Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South.

  181. 22 December 1769

    Moderate Gale and Cloudy Weather

    A moderate Gale at South by West and South-South-West and Cloudy weather. At 8 a.m. got up Top Gallant Yards and set the sails. At Noon Latitude observ’d 33 degrees 2 minutes South. Course and distant since Yesterday at Noon is North 69 1/2 West, 37 Miles. The North Cape bore South 39 degrees East, distant 38 Leagues.

  182. 23 December 1769

    Gentle Breezes and Clear Weather

    Gentle breezes between the South by West and South-West, and Clear settled weather, with a swell from the South-West. Course and distance sailed since Yesterday at Noon is South 60 degrees East, 30 Miles. Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South. North Cape South 36 minutes East, distant 27 Leagues.

  183. 24 December 1769

    Light Airs and Calm Weather

    Light Airs next to a Calm all this 24 Hours. At 7 p.m. saw the land from the Mast head bearing South 1/2 East; at 11 a.m. saw it again bearing South-South-East, distant 8 Leagues. At Noon Latitude observed 33 degrees 48 minutes South.

  184. 25 December 1769

    At the Three Kings Islands

    A gentle breeze at South-East, the weather a little hazy. P.M., stood to the South-West. At 4, the land above mentioned bore South-East by South, distant 4 leagues. It proves to be a small island, which we take to be the Three Kings, discovered by Tasman; there are several smaller islands or rocks lying off the South-West end and one at the North-East end.

    It lies in the latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, and longitude 187 degrees 45 minutes West, and West 14 degrees North, 14 or 15 leagues from the North Cape.

    At midnight tack’d and stood to the North-East until 6 a.m., then tack’d and stood to the Southward.

    At noon the island of the Three Kings bore East 8 degrees North, distant 5 or 6 leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 12 minutes South, longitude 188 degrees 5 minutes West; variation per azimuth taken this morning 11 degrees 25 minutes East.

  185. 26 December 1769

    Standing Southward from the Three Kings

    Moderate breezes, Easterly and hazey weather; standing to the Southward close upon a wind. At Noon was in the Latitude of 35 degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude 188 degrees 20 minutes West. The island of the 3 Kings North 26 degrees West, distant 22 Leagues. In this situation had no land in sight, and yet by observation we are in the Latitude of the Bay of Islands, and by my reckoning but 30 Leagues to the Westward of the North Cape, from whence it appears that the Northern part of this land must be very narrow, otherwise we must have seen some part of the West side of it.

  186. 27 December 1769

    Heavy Gales and Squally Weather

    Winds at East. P.M., a fresh Gale, with which we stood to the Southward until 12 at Night, then Tack’d and Stood to the Northward. At 4 a.m. the wind began to freshen, and increased in such a manner that at 9 we were obliged to bring the Ship too under her Mainsail, it blowing at this time excessive hard with heavy Squalls attended with rain, and at the same time thick hazey weather. Course made good since Yesterday at Noon South-South-West 1/2 West, distance 11 Miles. Latitude in 35 degrees 19 minutes South, Longitude in 188 degrees 29 minutes West. The Island of the 3 Kings, North 27 degrees East, distant 77 Miles.

  187. 28 December 1769

    A Hurricane and High Seas

    The gale continued without the least intermission until 2 a.m., when the wind fell a little and began to veer to the Southward and to the South-West, where it fixed at 4. We made sail and steer’d East in for the land under the foresail and mainsail, but were soon obliged to take in the latter as it began to blow very hard and increased in such a manner that by 8 o’clock it was a mere hurricane attended with rain, and the sea ran prodigious high.

    At this time we wore the ship, hauled up the topsail, and brought her to with her head to the North-West under a reefed mainsail. This was scarcely done before the main tack gave way, and we were glad to take in the mainsail and lay to under the mizen staysail and balanced mizen. After this we reefed the foresail and furled both it and the mainsail.

    At noon the gale was a little abated, but had still heavy squalls attended with rain. Our course made good today is North, a little Easterly, 29 miles; latitude in per account 34 degrees 50 minutes South; longitude 188 degrees 27 minutes West; the Three Kings North 41 East, distant 52 miles.

  188. 29 December 1769

    Strong South-West Gale and Sail Repairs

    Winds at South-West and South-West by West. A very hard gale with squalls but mostly fair weather. At 7 p.m. wore and lay on the other tack.

    At 6 a.m. loosed the reef out of the foresail and set it and the reefed mainsail. At 11 unbent both foresail and mainsail to repair, and bent others and made sail under them.

    At noon latitude observed 34 degrees 45 minutes South. Course and distance sailed since yesterday East by North, 29 miles.

  189. 30 December 1769

    Hard South-West Gales and Sight of Cape Maria Van Diemen

    Winds at South-West. P.M., hard Gales with some Squalls attended with rain. A.M., more moderate and fair. At 8 p.m. wore and stood to the North-West until 5 a.m., then wore and stood to the South-East and being pretty moderate we set the Topsails close Reef’d, but the South-West Sea runs so high that the Ship goes Bodily to leeward.

    At 6 saw the land bearing North-East distant about 6 Leagues which we judge to be the same as Tasman calls Cape Maria Van Dieman; at Noon it bore North-North-East 1/2 East and we could see the land extend to the East and Southward as far as South-East by East. Our Latitude by observation 34 degrees 50 minutes South.

  190. 31 December 1769

    Fresh South-West Gales near Cape Maria Van Diemen

    Fresh gales at South-West and South-West by South accompanied by a large Sea from the same Quarter. At 1 p.m. Tack’d and Stood to the North-West until 8, then stood to the South-East. At this time the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by West, distant 11 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen North by East. At Midnight wore and Stood to the North-West until 4 a.m., then wore and Stood to the South-East; at Noon our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees 42 minutes South. The land of Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North-East by North distant about 5 Leagues.

  191. 1 January 1770

    Persistent Westerly Winds near Cape Maria Van Diemen

    P.M., fresh breezes at South-West by South and Squally, the remainder moderate breezes at South-West by South and South-West clear weather. At 7 p.m. Tack’d and stood to the Westward. At this time Mount Camel bore North 83 degrees East and the Northermost land or Cape Maria Van Diemen North by West, being distant from the Nearest Shore 3 Leagues; in this situation had 40 fathoms Water.

    NOTE. Mount Camel doth not appear to lay little more than a Mile from the Sea on this side* (It is, in fact, about six miles, but the coast in front is so low that the mistake in estimation is very natural.) and about the same distance on the other, so that the land here cannot be above 2 or 3 Miles broad from Sea to Sea, which is what I computed when we were in Sandy Bay on the other side of the Coast.

    At 6 a.m. tack’d and stood to the Eastward, the Island of the 3 Kings North-West by North. At noon tack’d again and stood to the Westward, being in the Latitude of 34 degrees 37 minutes South; the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by North, distant 10 or 11 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen North 31 East, distant 4 1/2 Leagues; in this situation had 54 fathoms.

    I cannot help thinking but what it will appear a little strange that at this season of the year we should be 3 weeks in getting 10 Leagues to the Westward and 5 weeks in getting 50 Leagues, for so long it is since we pass’d Cape Brett; but it will hardly be credited that in the midst of Summer and in the Latitude of 35 degrees South such a Gale of Wind as we have had could have hapned, which for its strength and continuance was such as I hardly was ever in before. Fortunately at this time we were a good distance from land, otherwise it would have proved fatal to us.* (The north point of New Zealand is celebrated for bad weather.)

  192. 2 January 1770

    Fresh Breezes and Rolling Seas off Cape Maria Van Diemen

    Fresh breezes at South-South-West and West, accompanied with a rowling Sea from the South-West. At 5 p.m., the wind veering to the Westward, we tack’d and stood to the Southward. At this time the North Cape bore East 3/4 North and was just open of a point that lies 3 Leagues West by South from it, being now well assured that it is the Northermost Extremity of this Country. It is the East point of a Peninsula which stretches out North-West and North-West by North 17 or 18 Leagues, and, as I have before observed, is for the most part low and narrow except its extremity, where the land is tolerable high and extends 4 or 5 Leagues every way.

    Cape Maria Van Diemen is the West point of the Peninsula and lies in the Latitude of 34° 30′ South; Longitude 187° 18′ West from Greenwich. (This is extraordinarily accurate, seeing that the ship was never close to the Cape, and the observations were all taken in bad weather. The latitude is exact, and the longitude is only three miles in error. The persistence with which Cook clung to this point until he could resume his exploration and examination of the coast is very characteristic of the man. He would not willingly miss a mile of it, nor did he.)

    From this Cape the land trends away South-East by South and South-East to and beyond Mount Camel, and is everywhere a barren shore affording no better prospect than what ariseth from white sand banks. At 1/2 past 7 p.m., the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by North and Cape Maria Van Diemen North-East by East, distant 4 Leagues. At 5 a.m., Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North-North-East 1/2 East and Mount Camel East. At noon was in the Latitude of 35° 17′ South, and Cape Maria Van Diemen by judgment bore North distant 16 Leagues, having no land in sight, not daring to go near it as the wind blow’d fresh right on shore and a high rowling sea from the same quarter, knowing there was no harbour to put into in case we were caught upon a lee shore.

  193. 3 January 1770

    Fresh Breezes and Squalls, Sighted High Land to the Northeast

    Winds at West-South-West and South-West; a fresh breeze and Squally, the remainder moderate with frequent Squalls attended with rain. In the evening shortned Sail and at Midnight Tack’d and made a Trip to the North-West until 2 a.m., then wore and stood to the Southward. At daylight made Sail and Edged away in order to make the Land; at 10 saw it bearing North-East and appeared to be high land; at Noon it extended from North to East-North-East distant, by Estimation, 8 or 10 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 2 degrees 30 minutes West, distant 33 Leagues. Our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 2 minutes South. A high rowling swell from the South-West.

  194. 4 January 1770

    Dangerous Coastline and Deceptive Inlet

    Winds at South-West and South-West by South, mostly a fresh Gale accompanied with a rowling Sea from the same quarter. Being desirous of taking as near a view of the coast as we could with safety, we kept edging in for it until 7 o’clock p.m., being at this time 6 Leagues from the land. We then hauled our wind to South-East and kept on that course close upon the wind all night, sounding several times but had no ground with 100 and 110 fathoms.

    At 8 o’clock a.m. we were about 5 Leagues from the land, and a place which lies in the Latitude of 36° 25′ that had the appearance of a Bay or Inlet bore East. (This was Kaipara Harbour, although, on a closer inspection, Cook thought he had been deceived. It is the largest harbour on this part of the coast. The town of Helensville stands on one of its arms.)

    In order to see more of this place, we kept on our course until 11 o’clock, when we were not above 3 Leagues from it, and then found that it was neither a Bay nor Inlet, but low land bounded on each side by higher lands, which caused the deception. At this time we tacked and stood to the North-West.

    At Noon we were between 3 and 4 Leagues from the land and in the Latitude of 36° 31′ South and Longitude 185° 50′ West. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 25° West, distant 44 1/2 Leagues. From this I form my judgment of the direction of this Coast, which is nearly South-South-East 3/4 East and North-North-West 3/4 West, and must be nearly a straight shore.

    In about the Latitude of 35° 45′ is some high land adjoining to the Sea; to the southward of that, the land is of a moderate height, and wears a most desolate and inhospitable aspect. Nothing is to be seen but long sand hills, with hardly any green thing upon them, and the great sea, which the prevailing westerly winds impel upon the shore, must render this a very dangerous coast.

    This I am so fully sensible of, that, was we once clear of it, I am determined not to come so near again, if I can possibly avoid it, unless we have a very favourable wind indeed.

    (The mingled audacity and caution of Cook’s navigation off this coast must awake the admiration of every seaman.)

  195. 5 January 1770

    Standing Off the Dangerous Coast

    Fresh gales at South-West with frequent Squalls attended with rain. The South-West swell still keeping up we stood to the North-West all this day with a prest Sail in order to get an Offing. At Noon True Course made good North 38 West, distance 102 Miles. Latitude in per Observation 35 degrees 10 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 10 degrees East; distant 41 Miles.

  196. 6 January 1770

    Light Airs and Clear Weather

    First part a fresh breeze at South-West by South; in the night had it at South. A.M., light Airs from the Southward next to a Calm, and Clear weather. Course made good to-day is North 76 West; distance 8 Miles; Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 8 minutes South.

  197. 7 January 1770

    Variable Airs and Clear Weather

    Variable light Airs and Sometimes Calm with Clear pleasant weather. At daylight saw the land which we took to be Cape Maria Van Diemen bearing North-North-East, distant 8 or 9 Leagues. At Noon Latitude in per Observation 35 degrees 0 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North, distant 11 Leagues.

  198. 8 January 1770

    Gentle Breezes and Pleasant Weather

    Gentle breezes at North-East and pleasant weather. At 6 p.m. saw the land bearing East, and sometime after saw a Turtle upon the Water. At Noon the land Extending from North to East, distant 5 or 6 Leagues, being the high land before mentioned and which it intersected in 2 places each having the appearance of a Bay or inlet, but I believe it is only low land.* (* These were Hokianga and False Hokianga.) Course and distance made good since Yesterday at Noon is South 33 East, 53 miles. Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 45 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen North 25 West, distant 30 Leagues.

  199. 9 January 1770

    Cloudy Weather and Gentle Breezes Along Shore

    Gentle breezes between the North-East and North-West, Cloudy weather sailing along shore within sight of Land at Noon. Course and distance Sailed South 37 East, 69 Miles. Latitude in per Observation 36 degrees 39 minutes South; the place we were abreast of the 4th Instant, which we at first took for a Bay or Inlet* (* Kaipara.) bore North-East by North, distant 5 1/2 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 29 West, distant 47 Leagues.

  200. 10 January 1770

    Coasting Southward — Woodyhead and Gannet Island Sighted

    Winds at North-North-East and North, the first part a gentle breeze, the remainder a fresh breeze and cloudy with rain towards noon. Continued a South-East course until 8 o’clock p.m., at which time we had run 7 leagues since noon, and were between 3 and 4 leagues from the land, which appear’d to be low and sandy, such as I have before described. We then steer’d South-East by East in a parallel direction with the coast, our depth of water from 48 to 34 fathoms, a black sandy bottom.

    At daylight, found ourselves between 2 and 3 leagues from the land, which was of a moderate height and cloathed with wood and verdure. At 7 o’clock steer’d South by East, and afterwards South by West, the land laying in that direction. At 9, was abreast of a point of land which rises sloping from the sea to a considerable height; it lies in the latitude of 37° 43′ South; I named it Woodyhead.

    South-West 1/2 West 11 miles from this head is a very small island, which we named Gannet Island, on account of the great number of these birds we saw upon it. At noon, a high craggy point bore East-North-East, distance 1 1/2 leagues; this point I have named Albatross Point; it lies in the latitude of 38° 4′ South, longitude 184° 42′ West, and from Woodyhead South 17 minutes West, 7 leagues.

    On the north side of it, the shore forms a bay wherein there appears to be anchorage and shelter for shipping against southerly winds (Kawhia Harbour; there is a settlement here). Our course and distance sail’d since yesterday at noon is South 37° East, distance 69 miles. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 30° West, distant 82 leagues.

  201. 11 January 1770

    Light Winds and Bream Caught off Albetross Point

    At 1/2 past noon, the wind shifted at once from North-North-East to South-South-West, with which we stood to the westward until 4 p.m., then tack’d and stood on shore until 7, when we again stood to the westward having but little wind. At this time Albatross Point bore North-East, distant near 2 leagues, and the southermost land in sight bore South-South-West 1/2 West, being a very high mountain and made very much like the Peak of Teneriff. In this situation had 30 fathoms water.

    Had little wind all night; at 4 a.m. tack’d and stood in shore, but it soon after fell calm, and being in 42 fathoms water, the people caught about 10 or 12 bream. At 11, a light breeze sprung up from the westward and we made sail to the southward.

    At noon, was by observation in the latitude of 38° 4′ South; Albatross Point bore due east, distant 5 or 6 leagues.

  202. 12 January 1770

    Sailing South under the Hidden Peak

    Gentle breezes from between the North-West and North-North-East; fore and middle part clear weather, the latter part dark and cloudy; steering along shore South by West and South-South-West at the distance of 4 leagues off.

    At 7 p.m. saw the top of the peaked mountain to the southward above the clouds, bearing from us South; at the same time the southermost land we had in sight bore South by West. Took several azimuths both in the evening and the morning, which gave the variation 14° 15′ Easterly.

    At noon, had the winds very variable, with dark cloudy weather attended with excessive heavy showers of rain. At this time we were about 3 leagues from the shore, which lies under the peaked mountain before mentioned. This peak we did not see, it being hid in the clouds, but judged it to bear about South-South-East, and some very remarkable peaked islands, lying under the shore, bore East-South-East, distant 3 or 4 leagues.

  203. 13 January 1770

    Mount Egmont and Cape Egmont

    Winds variable, P.M. cloudy weather. At 7 o’clock sounded and had 42 fathoms water, being distant from the shore between 2 and 3 leagues, and the peaked mountain as near as I could judge bore East. After it was dark saw a fire upon the shore, a sure sign that the country is inhabited.

    In the night had some thunder, lightning, and rain; at 5 a.m. saw for a few minutes the top of the peaked mountain above the clouds, bearing North-East. It is of a prodigious height, and its top is covered with everlasting snow; it lies in the latitude of 39°16′ South and longitude of 185°15′ West. I have named it Mount Egmont, in honour of the Earl of Egmont.

    This mountain seems to have a pretty large base and rises with a gradual ascent to the peak. What makes it more conspicuous is its being situated near the sea and in the midst of a flat country clothed with woods and verdure. The shore under the foot of this mountain forms a large cape, which I have named Cape Egmont; it lies South-South-West ½ West, 27 leagues from Albatross Point.

    On the north-east side of the cape lie two small islands near a very remarkable point of the main that rises like a sugar loaf. To the southward of the cape the land tends away South-East by East and East-South-East, and seems everywhere a bold shore. At noon had variable light airs and clear weather; latitude observed 39°32′ South. Cape Egmont bore about North-East, and we were about 4 leagues from the shore in that direction; in this situation had 40 fathoms water.

  204. 14 January 1770

    Along Shore Toward the South Island

    .M. Had a gentle breeze at West. In the evening it came to North-West by West and continued so all night, blowing a fresh breeze. We steered along shore East-South-East and South-East by East, keeping between 2 and 3 leagues off.

    At half past 7 p.m. saw for a few minutes Mount Egmont, which bore from us North 17° West, distant 10 leagues. At 5 a.m. steered South-East by South, the land inclining more southerly, but half an hour after we saw land bearing South-West by South, which we hauled up for.* (The north end of the South Island, New Zealand.) At this time the weather was squally and attended with showers of rain.

    At noon had a steady fresh breeze at West by North and cloudy weather. The South-West extremity of the land in sight bore South 63° West, and some high land, which makes like an island lying under the main, bore South-South-East, distant 5 leagues. The bottom of the bay (this was the northern part of Cook’s Strait, though thought at the time to be a bay)—which bears from us South—we cannot see, although it is very clear in that quarter.

    Our latitude by observation was 40° 27′ South, longitude 184° 39′ West.

    (The western side of the North Island, which Cook took such trouble to follow, is 400 miles long and a most dangerous coast to explore, the winds being mostly on shore. This prevented him from getting very close, and he thus missed the entrances to several harbours, such as the Manukau, the Waikato River, and Whaingaroa. No canoes were seen, as the coast is not favourable for such craft.)

  205. 15 January 1770

    Entering a Deep Bay to Careen the Ship

    Fore and Middle parts: Fresh breezes between the West and North-West, and fair weather.

    At 8 p.m. we were within 2 leagues of the land we discovered in the morning, having run 10 leagues since noon. The land seen then bearing South 63° West bore now North 59° West, distant 7 or 8 leagues, and makes like an island. Between this land or island and Cape Egmont is a very broad and deep bay or inlet, the South-West side of which we are now upon; here the land is of a considerable height, distinguished by hills and valleys, and the shore seems to form several bays — into one of which I intend to go with the ship, in order to careen her (she being very foul), and to repair some few defects, and recruit our stock of wood, water, etc.

    With this view we kept plying on and off all night, having from 80 to 63 fathoms water. At daylight stood in for an inlet which runs in South-West.

    (Queen Charlotte’s Sound, in the north-east part of the Middle Island.)

    At 8 a.m. we were got within the entrance, which may be known by a reef of rocks stretching off from the North-West point, and some rocky islands lying off the South-East point. At 9 o’clock, being little wind and variable, we were carried by the tide or current within two cables’ length of the North-West shore, where we had 54 fathoms; but with the help of our boats we got clear.

    At this time we saw rise up twice near the ship a sea lion, the head of which was exactly like that of the male one described by Lord Anson. We likewise saw a canoe with some of the natives cross the bay, and a village situated upon a point of an island, which lies 7 or 8 miles within the entrance.

    At noon we were the length of this island, and being little wind had the boats ahead towing.

  206. 16 January 1770

    Anchored in a Snug Cove and First Contact with the Natives

    Variable light airs and clear settled weather.

    At 1 p.m. hauled close round the south-west end of the island, on which stands the village before mentioned, the inhabitants of which were all in arms.

    At 2 o’clock we anchored in a very snug cove (Ship Cove, in Queen Charlotte’s Sound), which is on the north-west side of the bay, facing the south-west end of the island, in 11 fathoms, soft ground, and moored with the stream anchor.

    By this time several of the natives had come off to the ship in their canoes, and after heaving a few stones at us and having some conversation with Tupia, some of them ventured on board, where they made but a very short stay before they went into their canoes again, and soon after left us altogether.

    I then went ashore in the bottom of the cove, accompanied by most of the gentlemen on board. We found a fine stream of excellent water, and as to wood, the land is here one entire forest. Having the seine with us, we made a few hauls and caught 300 pounds weight of different sorts of fish, which were equally distributed to the ship’s company.

    A.M. Careened the ship, scrubbed and paid the larboard side. Several of the natives visited us this morning, and brought with them some stinking fish, which, however, I ordered to be bought up to encourage them in this kind of traffic; but trade at this time seemed not to be their object, and they were more inclinable to quarrel. As the ship was upon the careen, I thought they might give us some trouble and perhaps hurt some of our people that were in the boats alongside.

    For this reason I fired some small shot at one of the first offenders; this made them keep at a proper distance while they stayed, which was not long before they all went away.

    These people declared to us this morning that they never either saw or heard of a ship like ours being upon this coast before. From this it appears that they have no tradition among them of Tasman being here, for I believe Murderers Bay, the place where he anchored, not to be far from this place (Tasman’s Massacre Bay lies 70 miles to the West-North-West); but this cannot be it from the latitude, for I find by an observation made this day at noon that we are at an anchor in 41° 5′ 32″ South, which is 15 miles to the southward of Murderers Bay (the bay in Queen Charlotte’s Sound in which the Endeavour anchored, Ship Cove, lies 7 miles within the entrance on the western shore).

  207. 18 January 1770

    Repairs and Exploration in the Bay

    Winds mostly from the South-West; a gentle breeze and Clear settled weather. P.M., righted the Ship and sent on shore all or most of our empty Casks, and in the Morning the Coopers went about Trimming them, and the Carpenters went to work to Caulk the sides and to repair other defects in the Ship, while the seamen are Employ’d in the hold Cutting Wood, etc., etc. I made a little Excursion in the pinnace in order to take a View of the Bay, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We met with nothing remarkable, and as we were on the West side of the Bay where the land is so closely cover’d with wood that we could not penetrate into the country.

  208. 19 January 1770

    Trade and More Evidence of Cannibalism

    Winds and weather as yesterday, and the employment of the people the same. In the P.M. some of our people found in the Skirts of the Wood 3 hip Bones of Men; they lay near to a Hole or Oven, that is a place where the Natives dress their Victuals; this Circumstance, trifling as it is, is still a further proof that these people eat human flesh. In the A.M. set up the Forge to repair the Braces of the Tiller and such other Iron work as was wanting. The Natives came alongside and sold us a quantity of large Mackrell for Nails, pieces of Cloth and paper, and in this Traffick they never once attempted to defraud us of any one thing but dealt as fair as people could do.

  209. 20 January 1770

    Grisly Trade and Survey of the Bay

    Winds Southerly and fair, pleasant weather. Employ’d wooding, Watering, etc., and in the A.M. sent part of the Powder ashore to be Air’d. Some of the Natives brought alongside in one of their Canoes 4 of the heads of the Men they had lately kill’d; both the Hairy Scalps and Skin of the faces were on. Mr. Banks bought one of the 4, but they would not part with any of the other on any account whatever. The one Mr. Banks got had received a blow on the Temple that had broke the Skull. This morning I set out in the Pinnace accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, in order to Survey the West Coast of the Bay; we took our rout towards the head of the Bay, but it was near noon before we had got beyond the place we had been before.

  210. 21 January 1770

    Survey of the Bay and Shore Leave

    P.M., a Gentle breeze of Wind Southerly, the remainder light Airs and Calm with clear, settled weather. P.M., the people employ’d as usual, and at 8 o’Clock we return’d on board the Pinnace from surveying the bay, in the doing of which I met with an Excellent Harbour, but saw no inhabitants or any Cultivated land. In the A.M. after hauling the Sean for fish, I gave every body leave to go ashore at the Watering place to amuse themselves as they thought proper.

  211. 22 January 1770

    Exploration Toward the Head of the Inlet

    P.M., and in the night had variable light Airs and Calms. A.M., had a fresh breeze Southerly and Cloudy weather. In the morning the people were set about the necessary business of the Ship, and I set out in the Pinnace accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with a view of examining the head of the inlet, but after rowing between 4 and 5 Leagues up it, and finding no probability of reaching it, or even seeing the end,* (* The head of Queen Charlotte’s Sound is 20 miles from where the Endeavour was lying.) the wind being against us and the day already half spent; we landed at Noon on the South-East side in order to try to get upon one of the Hills, to view the inlet from thence.

  212. 23 January 1770

    Discovery of a Strait and Eastern Sea

    P.M., Winds Southerly, a fresh breeze. Agreeable to what is mentioned above, I took one hand with me and climbed up to the top of one of the hills; but when I came there, I was hindered from seeing up the inlet by higher hills, which I could not come at for impenetrable woods. However, I was abundantly recompensed for the trouble I had in ascending the hill, for from it I saw what I took to be the Eastern Sea, and a Strait or passage from it into the Western Sea, a little to the eastward of the entrance of the inlet in which we now lay with the Ship.

    The main land which lies on the south-east side of this inlet appeared to me to be a narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form a part of the south-west side of the Strait;* (* Cook’s Strait, which divides the two islands of New Zealand.) the land on the opposite side seemed to tend away east, as far as the eye could see. To the south-east appeared an open sea, and this I took to be the Eastern. I likewise saw some islands lying on the east side of the inlet, which before I had taken to be a part of the main land.

    As soon as I had descended the hill and we had refreshed ourselves, we set out in order to return to the Ship, and in our way passed through and examined the harbours, coves, etc., that lay behind the islands above mentioned. In this route we met with an old village in which were a good many houses, but nobody had lived in them lately; we likewise saw another that was inhabited, but the day being so far spent, we had not time to go to it, and made the best of our way to the Ship, which we reached between 8 and 9 o’clock.

    In the night had much rain, with cloudy, hazy weather, which continued by intervals until noon.

  213. 24 January 1770

    Surveying the Inlet and Visiting Motuara

    P.M., had a fresh breeze southerly and cloudy weather. After dinner I employed myself in carrying on the survey of the place, and upon one of the islands where I landed were a number of houses, but no inhabitants, neither had any been there lately.

    In the morning the Gunner was sent ashore with the remainder of the powder, and the longboat was sent with a gang of hands to one of the islands to cut grass for our sheep; the rest of the people were employed about the usual work of the Ship.

    This forenoon some of us visited the Hippa, which is situated on the point of the island mentioned on our first arrival;* (* Motuara.) the inhabitants of this place showed not the least dislike at our coming, but, on the contrary, with a great deal of seeming good nature, showed us all over the place. We found among them some human bones, the flesh of which they told us they had eaten; they likewise informed us that there was no passage into the sea through this inlet, as I had imagined there was, because above where I was in the boat it turned away to the westward.

    Leaving these people, we travelled to the other end of the island, and there took water and crossed over upon the main, where we met with several houses that were at present, or had very lately been, inhabited; but we saw very few of the inhabitants, and these were in their boats fishing. After viewing this place we returned on board to dinner.

  214. 26 January 1770

    Exploring the Inlet and Discovering the Likely Passage

    Gentle breezes and pleasant weather.

    In the P.M. I made a little excursion in the pinnace along shore towards the mouth of the inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We found in a small cove several of the Natives, of whom we purchased a quantity of fresh fish; and upon our return to the Ship found that the Sean had been equally as successful, which we generally haul morning and evening, and seldom fail of getting fish sufficient for all hands.

    In the A.M. I made an excursion into one of the bays which lie on the east side of the inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. Upon our landing we ascended a very high hill, from which we had a full view of the passage I had before discovered, and the land on the opposite shore, which appeared to be about 4 leagues from us; but as it was hazy near the horizon we could not see far to the south-east. However, I had now seen enough of this passage to convince me that there was the greatest probability in the world of its running into the Eastern Sea, as the distance of that sea from this place cannot exceed 20 leagues even to where we were.

    Upon this I resolved, after putting to sea, to search this passage with the Ship. We found on the top of the hill a parcel of loose stones, of which we built a pyramid, and left in it some musket balls, small shot, beads, and whatever we had about us that was likely to stand the test of time. After this we descended the hill and found, along with Tupia and the boat’s crew, several of the Natives sitting in the most free and friendly manner imaginable. Tupia always accompanies us in every excursion we make, and proves of infinite service.

    In our return to the Ship we visited the Hippa we had seen on Tuesday last, which is situated on a small island, or rather a rock. The inhabitants of this place invited us ashore with their usual marks of friendship, and showed us all over the place; which indeed was soon done, for it was very small, yet it contained a good number of people, and they had in it, split and hanging up to dry, a prodigious quantity of various sorts of small fish, a part of which they sold to us for such trifles as we had about us.

  215. 27 January 1770

    Repairs and Maintenance at Anchor

    Fresh gales, Westerly. This day we got the Tiller properly secured, which hath been the Employment of the Armourers and part of the Carpenters since we Anchor’d at this place; the former in repairing and making new Iron work, and the Latter in fixing a Transom,* (* A transom is a curved piece of wood which supports the end of the tiller.) for the want of which the Tiller has often been in danger of being broke; the Iron braces that supply’d the want of a Transom have broke every time they have been repair’d. Coopers still employ’d repairing the Casks; some hands with the Long boat getting on board Stones to put into the bottom of the bread room to bring the Ship more by the Stern; while others were employ’d cutting wood, repairing the rigging, and fishing.

  216. 28 January 1770

    Strong Westerly Gales and Rain

    Strong Gales westerly. P.M. fair and Cloudy, the remainder thick, hazey weather, with much rain.

  217. 29 January 1770

    Report of a Shooting and Survey of the Coast

    Winds as yesterday. P.M. rainy weather, the remainder fair and cloudy.

    Pretty early in the A.M. an old man, who had made us several visits upon our first arrival here, came on board and told us that one of our boats had fired upon and wounded two of their people, one of which was dead of his wounds. This affair happened on Sunday was a week, and never before now came to my knowledge. On that day the Master and five petty officers desired to have a small boat to go a-fishing; but instead of keeping within the usual bounds and under the protection of the Ship, they went over to the Hippa on the island, from which some of the inhabitants put off in two canoes, as they thought, to attack them. This caused the Master to fire, and, according to the report of the old man, wounded two, one of which is since dead; but this last circumstance was soon after contradicted by another of the Natives, who Mr. Green and Tupia saw ashore, and I wish this last report may be true, because I find the reasons for firing upon them are not very justifiable.

    This morning I went out to the mouth of the inlet and landed upon the west point, and from the top of a pretty high hill which is there I had a view of this coast to the north-west. The farthest land I could see in that quarter was an island* (* Stephens Island. Cape Stephens, off which it lies, forms the western termination of the strait—Cook’s Strait—between the two islands of New Zealand. The coast between this and Cape Jackson, where Cook was standing, is thickly indented with inlets of great extent. The two Capes were named after the Secretaries of the Admiralty.) about 10 leagues off and lying pretty near the main, and is the same as hath been before mentioned. Between this island and the place where I was lay some other islands close under the shore, which form several bays, where there appears to be safe anchorage for shipping.

    After I had set the different points, etc., we erected upon the top of the hill a tower or pile of stones, in which we left a piece of silver coin, some musket balls, beads, etc., and left flying upon it a piece of an old pendant. After this we returned to the boat, and in our way to the Ship visited some of the Natives we met with along shore, and purchased of them a small quantity of fish.

  218. 30 January 1770

    Native Mourning Ritual and Ship Preparations

    Winds at North-West, gentle breezes, and fair weather.

    Early in the A.M. a boat was sent to one of the islands to get sellery to boil for the people’s breakfasts. While our people were gathering it near some empty huts, about 20 of the Natives landed there—men, women, and children. They had no sooner got out of their canoe than five or six women sat down together and cut and sacrificed themselves—viz., their legs, shins, arms, and faces—some with shells and others with pieces of jasper. So far as our people could understand them, this was done on account of their husbands being lately killed and devoured by their enemies.

    While the women were performing this ceremony, the men went about repairing the huts without showing the least concern. The carpenter went with part of his people into the woods to cut and square some timber to saw into boards for the use of the Ship, and to prepare two posts to be set up with inscriptions on them.

  219. 31 January 1770

    Taking Possession of Queen Charlotte’s Sound

    Little wind and variable.

    In the P.M. the carpenters having prepared the two posts with inscriptions upon them, setting forth the Ship’s name, month, and year, one of them was set up at the watering place, on which was hoisted the Union flag. In the morning I took the other over to the Island which is known by the name of Motuouru, and is the one that lies nearest to the sea. But before I attempted to set up the post, I went first to the Hippa, having Dr. Monkhouse and Tupia along with me. We here met with the old man I have before spoken of.

    The first thing I did was to inquire after the man said to be killed by our people, and the one that was wounded at the same time, when it did not appear to me that any such accidents had happened. I next (by means of Tupia) explained to the old man and several others that we were come to set up a mark upon the Island, in order to show to any ship that might put into this place that we had been here before. They not only gave their free consent to set it up, but promised never to pull it down. I then gave everyone a present of one thing or another; to the old man I gave silver three-penny pieces dated 1763, and spike nails with the King’s broad arrow cut deep in them—things that I thought were most likely to remain long among them.

    After I had thus prepared the way for setting up the post, we took it up to the highest part of the Island, and after fixing it fast in the ground, hoisted thereon the Union flag, and I dignified this inlet with the name of Queen Charlotte’s Sound, and took formal possession of it and the adjacent lands in the name and for the use of His Majesty. We then drank Her Majesty’s health in a bottle of wine, and gave the empty bottle to the old man (who had attended us up the hill), with which he was highly pleased.

    Whilst the post was setting up we asked the old man about the Strait or passage into the Eastern Sea, and he very plainly told us there was a passage. As I had some conjectures that the lands to the south-west of this Strait (which we are now at) was an island and not a continent, we questioned the old man about it, who said it consisted of two Wannuas, that is, two lands or islands that might be circumnavigated in a few days, even in four. This man spoke of three lands—the two above mentioned which he called Tovy-poinammu (The two Wannuas were doubtless the peninsulas lying west of Queen Charlotte’s Sound. The third was the North Island. Te Wai Pounamu—The Water of the Greenstone—is the native name of the Middle Island.)—which signifies green talk or stone, such as they make their tools or ornaments, etc., and for the third he pointed to the land on the east side of the Strait; this, he said, was a large land, and that it would take up a great many moons to sail round it; this he called Aeheino Mouwe, a name many others before had called it by. That part which borders on the Strait he called Teiria Whitte.

    After we had done our business upon the Island we returned on board, bringing the old man along with us, who after dinner went ashore in a canoe that came to attend upon him.

  220. 1 February 1770

    Strong Gales and Final Preparations

    P.M. having compleated the Ship with wood, and filled all our water, the Boatswain was sent ashore with a party of Men to cut and make brooms, while others were Employ’d about the rigging, fishing, etc. In the night and the remainder of the day had a Strong Gale from the North-West, attended with very much rain.

  221. 2 February 1770

    Storm and Loss of Water Casks

    In the P.M. the Gale increased to a Storm, attended with rain and squalls, which came down in Excessive heavy gusts from off the high land, in one of which the hawser we had fast to the shore broke; this obliged us to let go another Anchor. Towards midnight the Gale moderated, and in the morning it fell Calm, and we took up the Sheet Anchor, looked at the best bower, and moored the ship again to the Shore. The heavy rain, which both fell and Continues to fall, hath caused the Brook we water’d at to overflow its banks, and carry away 10 small Casks we had Standing there full of Water, and notwithstanding we searched the whole Cove, we could not find one of them.

  222. 3 February 1770

    Trade with the Hippa and Confirming Reports of the Strait

    Winds Northerly, mostly fair weather. Very early in the A.M. sent the Long boat for Sellery to boil for the Ship’s Company’s breakfast, and as I intended sailing the first opportunity, I went over to the Hippa, which is on the East side of the sound, and purchased of the inhabitants a quantity of split and half dry’d fish, and such as I could get. While we were at this Hippa, Tupia made farther enquiry about the Lands and Strait, and these people confirm’d everything the old Man had before told us. About noon we took our leave of them, which some seem’d not sorry for; notwithstanding they sold us their fish very freely, there were some few among them who shew’d evident signs of disapprobation.

  223. 4 February 1770

    Preparing to Sail and Trading for Fish

    Winds Northerly, a fresh breeze and fair weather. In the P.M., after returning from the Hippa, some of us made an Excursion along shore to the Northward, in order to Traffic with the Natives for fish, in which we had no great Success. In the evening got everything off from the Shore, designing to sail in the Morning, but the wind not permitting, we amused ourselves in fishing, collecting of shells, etc.

  224. 5 February 1770

    Warping the Ship and Distributing Fish

    Winds and weather as Yesterday. In the A.M. Cast off the Hawser, hove short on the Bower, and carried out the Kedge Anchor, in order to warp the Ship out of the Cove. All the dry fish we have been able to procure from the Natives since we came here were this day divided amongst the Ship’s Company.

  225. 6 February 1770

    Leaving Queen Charlotte’s Sound and Native Traditions of a Northern Land

    At 2 p.m. hove up the anchor, warped the Ship out of the Cove, and got under sail; but it soon after falling little wind, and that very variable, we anchored again a little above Motu-ouru. The old man, seeing us under sail, came on board to take his leave of us.

    Amongst other conversation that passed between him and Tupia, he was asked if either he or any of his ancestors had ever seen or heard of any ship like this being in these parts; to which question he answered in the negative, but said that his ancestors had told him that there came once to this place a small vessel from a distant part, wherein were four men that were all killed upon their landing. Being asked where this distant land lay, he pointed to the north, intimating that it would take up a great many days to go thither. Something of this land was mentioned by the people of the Bay of Islands, who said that some of their ancestors had been there; but it is very clear to us that their knowledge of this land is only traditionary.* (* This was doubtless the tradition current among the Maoris, that their ancestors came from islands to the north.)

    Had it calm all night until 6 o’clock in the morning, when a light breeze sprung up at north, and we got again under sail; but as the wind proved very unsteady, we got no farther than just without Motu-ouru by noon, but had a fair prospect of getting clear out of the Sound, which I shall next describe.

  226. 7 February 1770

    Through Cook Strait and Naming Cape Pallisser

    In the P.M. had a light breeze at North by West, with which we got out of the Sound and stood over to the Eastward, in order to get the Strait well open before the tide of ebb made. At 7 the two small islands which lie off Cape Koamaroo, or the South-East head of Queen Charlotte’s Sound, bore East, distant four miles. At this time we had it nearly calm, and the tide of ebb making out, we were carried by the rapidity of the stream in a very short time close upon one of the islands,* (*The Brothers. There is now a lighthouse on this island.) where we narrowly escaped being dashed against the rocks by bringing the Ship to an anchor in seventy-five fathoms water, with one hundred and fifty fathoms of cable out.

    Even this would not have saved us had not the tide, which first set South by East, by meeting with the island, changed its direction to South-East, and carried us past the first point. When the Ship was brought up she was about two cables’ lengths off the rocks and in the strength of the stream, which set South-East at least four or five knots or miles per hour. A little before twelve o’clock the tide abated, and we began to heave; by three the anchor was at the bows, and having a light breeze at North-West, we made sail over for the Eastern shore; but having the tide against us we made but little way.

    The wind afterwards freshened, and came to North and North-East, with which and the tide of ebb we were in a short time hurried through the narrowest part of the Strait, and then stood away for the southermost land we had in sight, which bore from us South by West. Over this land appeared a prodigious high mountain,* (*The Kairoura Range, the summit of which is 9,500 feet high.) the summit of which was covered with snow. The narrowest part of the Strait we have passed lies between Cape Koamaroo on Tovy-poinammu and Cape Teerawhitte on Aeheino-mouwe; the distance from the one to the other I judged to be between four and five leagues.

    And notwithstanding the strength of the tides, now that it is known, there is no great danger in passing it; in the doing of which I am of opinion that the North-East shore is the safest to keep upon, for upon that side there appeared no danger, whereas on the other shore there are not only the islands and rocks lying off Cape Koamaroo, for I discovered from the hill from which I had the second view of the Strait, a reef of rocks stretching from these islands six or seven miles to the southward, and lying about two or three miles off from the shore.

    I shall not pretend here to assign limits to the length of this Strait; a view of the chart will best illustrate that. About North nine leagues from Cape Teerawhitte, under the same shore, is a high remarkable island that may be distinctly seen from Queen Charlotte Sound, from which it lies North-East by East ¼ East, distant six or seven leagues. I have called it Entry Isle, and it was taken notice of when we first passed it on Sunday 14th of last month.

    On the East side of Cape Teerawhitte the land trends away South-East by East about eight leagues, where it ends in a point, and is the southermost land on Aeheinomouwe, which I have named Cape Pallisser, in honour of my worthy friend Captain Pallisser.* (*Captain Palliser, afterwards Sir Hugh, was Captain of the Eagle, Cook’s first ship in the Royal Navy. He discovered Cook’s talents and was his warm friend throughout his life. Between Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Palliser is the entrance to Port Nicholson, wherein is situated Wellington, the capital of New Zealand.)

    This entrance is, however, narrow, and Cook was never near enough to the land to discover it. Latitude 41°34′, Longitude 183°58′. It bore from us this day at noon South 79° East, distant 12 or 13 leagues, being then in the latitude of 41°27′ South; at the same time Cape Koamaroo bore North ½ East, distant 7 or 8 leagues. The southermost point of land in sight bore South 16° West, and the snowy mountain South-West, being about three leagues from the shore and abreast of a deep bay or inlet called Cloudy Bay, in the bottom of which appeared low land covered with tall trees.

  227. 8 February 1770

    Confirming New Zealand as Two Islands

    In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-North-East and cloudy weather. At 3 o’clock was abreast of the southermost point of land set at noon, which I named Cape Campbell, Latitude 41°42′ South, Longitude 184°47′ West. It lies South by West, distant 12 or 13 leagues from Cape Koamaroo, and together with Cape Pallisser forms the southern entrance of the Straits; the distance of the one to the other is 13 or 14 leagues, West by South and East by North.

    From this Cape we steered along shore South-West by South until 8 o’clock, when the wind died away; but an hour after, a fresh breeze sprung up at South-West, and we put the Ship right before it. The reason of my doing this was owing to a notion which some of the officers had just started—that Aeheinomouwe was not an island; founding their opinion on a supposition that the land might extend away to the South-East from between Cape Turnagain and Cape Pallisser, there being a space of about 12 or 13 leagues which we had not seen.

    For my own part, I had seen so far into this sea the first time I discovered the Strait, together with many other concurrent testimonies of its being an island, that no such supposition ever entered my thoughts; but being resolved to clear up every doubt that might arise on so important an object, I took the opportunity of the shifting of the wind to stand to the Eastward, and accordingly steered North-East by East all night.

    At 9 o’clock A.M. we were abreast of Cape Pallisser, where we found the land trend away North-East towards Cape Turnagain, which I reckoned to be distant from us about 26 leagues; but as the weather was hazy, so that we could not see above 4 or 5 leagues ahead, we still kept standing to the North-East, with a light breeze at South. At noon Cape Pallisser bore North 72° West, distant 3 leagues; our latitude by account is 41°30′ South.

  228. 9 February 1770

    Circumnavigation of the North Island Completed

    Gentle breezes at South and South-South-East, hazy cloudy weather. In the P.M. three canoes came off to the ship, wherein were between thirty and forty of the natives, who had been pulling after us for some time. It appeared from the behaviour of these people that they had heard of our being upon the coast, for they came alongside, and some of them on board the ship, without showing the least signs of fear.

    They were no sooner on board than they asked for nails; but when nails were given them, they asked Tupia what they were, which was plain that they had never seen any before. Yet they not only knew how to ask for them but knew what use to make of them, and therefore must have heard of nails, which they call whow—the name of a tool among them made generally of bone, which they use as a chisel in making holes, etc.

    These people asking so readily for nails proves that their connections must extend as far north as Cape Kidnapper, which is forty-five leagues, for that was the southermost place on this side of the coast where we had any traffic with the natives; and it is most probable that the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte’s Sound got the little knowledge they seemed to have of iron by the connections they may have with the Teerawhitteans bordering upon them. For we have no reason to think that the inhabitants of any part of this land had the least knowledge of iron before we came amongst them.

    After a short stay these people were dismissed with proper presents, and we continued our course along shore to the north-east until eleven o’clock A.M., when the weather cleared up, and we saw Cape Turnagain bearing North by East ¼ East, distant seven leagues. I then called the officers upon deck, and asked them if they were now satisfied that this land was an island; to which they answered in the affirmative, and we hauled our wind to the eastward.*

    (The Endeavour had now completely circumnavigated the North Island of New Zealand, having spent four months in the exploration. That Cook had communicated his enthusiasm to his officers is evident; or, knowing his determination to leave nothing doubtful, they would not have started the idea that the North Island might not be really an island. The natural wish after so many months’ absence from civilization must have been to get back to it, and to take things for granted that would otherwise delay their progress.)

    At noon our latitude by observation was 40°55′ South, which is twenty-one miles to the southward of Cape Turnagain, it bearing North by East, and Cape Pallisser by this day’s run bearing South 43° West, nineteen or twenty leagues.

  229. 10 February 1770

    Off Cape Pallisser, South Island in Sight

    Gentle breezes at South-East and Cloudy weather. At 4 P.M. Tack’d and stood South-West until 8 A.M., when being not above 3 or 4 Miles from the Shore we Tack’d, and stood off 2 hours, and then stood again to the South-West until noon, when being in the Latitude of 41 degrees 13 minutes South, and about 2 Miles from the Shore, the land of Cape Pallisser bearing South 53 degrees West, had 26 fathoms of water.

  230. 11 February 1770

    Calm Seas and Friendly Contact Near Castle Point

    P.M. had light breeze from the South-East. In the night it was Calm until 9 a.m., when a Gentle breeze sprung up at East-North-East, with which we made sail to the Southward, having a large swell rolling in from that Quarter. At Noon was in the Latitude of 41 degrees 6 minutes South, distant from the Shore 1 1/2 Leagues; a remarkable hillock,* (* Castle Point.) which stands close to the Sea, bore North 1/2 East, distance 4 Leagues. At this time 2 Canoes came alongside the Ship, with whom we had some little Traffic, and then dismissed them.

  231. 12 February 1770

    Off Cape Pallisser with Changing Winds

    Most part of the P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-East, which by sunset carried us the length of Cape Pallisser, and as the weather was clear I had an opportunity of viewing the land of this Cape, which is of a height sufficient to be seen in clear weather twelve or fourteen leagues, and is of a broken and hilly surface. Between the foot of the high land and the sea is a border of low, flat land, off which lie some rocks that appear above water.

    Between this Cape and Cape Turnagain the land near the shore is in many places low and flat, and appeared green and pleasant; but inland are many hills. From Cape Pallisser to Cape Teerawhitte the land is tolerably high, making in table-points, and the shore forms two bays—at least it appeared so, for we were always too far off this part of the coast to be particular.*

    (The northern of these was the entrance to Port Nicholson, the harbour of Wellington.)

    The wind continued at North-East until twelve at night, when it died away and veered round to the West, and afterwards to South and South-South-East, with little wind, so that by noon we had advanced no farther than 41°52′ South latitude. Cape Pallisser bore North, distant five leagues, and the Snowy Mountain bore South 83° West.

  232. 13 February 1770

    Calm Weather South of Cape Pallisser

    P.M. light Airs at South-East, the remainder Calm. At Noon found ourselves in the Latitude of 42 degrees 2 minutes South, Cape Pallisser bearing North 20 degrees East, distant 8 Leagues.

  233. 14 February 1770

    Abreast the Snowy Kaikoura Mountains

    P.M. a fresh breeze sprung up at North-East, and we steered South-West by West for the southermost land we had in sight, which bore from us at sunset South 74° West. At this time we found the variation to be 15° 4′ East.

    At 8 a.m. it fell calm; at this time we had run twenty-one leagues South 58° West since yesterday at noon, which brought us abreast of the high snowy mountain, it bearing from us North-West in this direction. It lay behind a mountainous ridge of nearly the same height, which rises directly from the sea and runs parallel with the shore, which lies North-East ½ North and South-West ½ South. The north-east end of the ridge takes its rise but a little way inland from Cape Campbell.

    These mountains are distinctly seen both from Cape Koamaroo and Cape Pallisser, being distant from the former South-West ½ South twenty-two leagues, and from the latter West-South-West thirty leagues; but they are of a height sufficient to be seen at a much greater distance. By some on board they are thought to be much higher than the Peak of Teneriffe, which I cannot agree to; neither do I think them so high as Mount Egmont, on the south-west coast of Aeheinomouwe, founding my opinion on the summit of the latter being almost wholly covered with snow, whereas it only lies upon these in patches.*

    (The highest peak of the Kaikoura Mountains, Mount Tapuae-o-Uenuku, is 9,500 feet high. It is therefore higher than Mount Egmont, but not so high as the Peak of Teneriffe. The snow lies thicker on the western side of New Zealand mountains, so Cook’s parallel was fallacious. The Endeavour was now near the Kaikoura Peninsula, where a small town stands at the present day, the shipping port of an agricultural district.)

    At noon was in the latitude of 42°34′ South; the southermost land we had in sight bore South-West ½ West, and some low land that made like an island lying close under the foot of the ridge bore North-West by North, distant about five or six leagues.

  234. 15 February 1770

    Canoes Sighted off the Kaikoura Coast

    In the P.M. 4 Double Canoes, in which were 57 Men, came off to the Ship; they kept at the distance of about a Stone’s throw from us, and would not be prevailed upon to put alongside by all that Tupia could say to them. From this we concluded that they never had heard of our being upon the coast. At 8 p.m. a breeze sprung up at South-South-West, with which we Stretched off South-East, because some on board thought they saw land in that Quarter. We continued on this course until 6 A.M., at which time we had run 11 Leagues, but saw no land but that which we had left. Soon after this it fell calm, and continued so for an hour; then a light breeze sprung up at West, which afterwards veer’d to the North, and we stood to the Westward. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 42 degrees 56 minutes South, and the High Land we were abreast of yesterday at Noon, North-North-West 1/2 West.

  235. 16 February 1770

    Light Winds and New Land Sighted to the South

    In the P.M. had a light breeze North-East, with which we steer’d West, edging in for the land, which was distant from us about 8 Leagues. At 7 o’Clock the Southermost Extream of the land in sight bore West-South-West, being about 6 Leagues from the Shore; soon after this it fell Calm, and continued so most part of the night, with sometimes light Airs from the land. At daylight we discover’d land bearing South by West, and seemingly detached from the Coast we were upon; at 8 o’Clock a breeze sprung up at North by East, and we steer’d directly for it. At Noon was in the Latitude of 43 degrees 19 minutes South; the Peak on the Snowy Mountains bore North 20 degrees East, distant 27 Leagues; the Southern Extremity we could see of that land bore West, and the land discover’d in the morning, making like an Island, extending from South-South-West to South-West by West 1/2 West, distant about 8 Leagues; our Course and distance sail’d since yesterday at Noon South-West by West, 43 Miles; Variation by this Morning’s Amplitude 14 degrees 39 minutes East.

  236. 17 February 1770

    Discovery of Banks Island (Banks Peninsula)

    P.M. stood to the southward for the land above mentioned, with the wind at North, a fresh breeze and clear weather. At 8 o’clock we had run eleven leagues since noon, when the land extended from South-West by West to North by West, being distant from the nearest shore about three or four leagues; in this situation had fifty fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. Soon after this it fell calm, and continued so until six a.m., when a light breeze sprung up at North-West, which afterwards veered to North-East.

    At sunrise, being very clear, we plainly discovered that the last-mentioned land was an island, by seeing part of the land of Tovy-poenammu open to the westward of it, extending as far as West by South. At eight o’clock the extremes of the island bore North 76° West and North-North-East ½ East, and an opening that had the appearance of a bay or harbour, lying near the south point, bore North 20° West, distant three or four leagues, being in thirty-eight fathoms, a brown sandy bottom.

    This island,* (It is not an island, but a mountainous peninsula, still called after Mr. Banks. From the lowness of the land it adjoins, it appears like an island. On the north side is the fine harbour of Lyttelton, the port of Christchurch, a town of nearly 40,000 inhabitants. The harbour on the south side, that Cook saw, is Akaroa, a magnificent port.) which I have named after Mr. Banks, lies about five leagues from the coast of Tovy-poenammu; the south point bears South 21° West from the higher peak on the snowy mountain so often mentioned, and lies in the latitude of 43°52′ South and in the longitude of 186°30′ West, by observations made of the sun and moon this morning. It is of a circular figure, and may be about twenty-four leagues in compass; the land is of a height sufficient to be seen twelve or fifteen leagues, and of a very broken, uneven surface, and hath more the appearance of barrenness than fertility. Last night we saw smoke upon it, and this morning some people, and therefore it must be inhabited.

    Yesterday Lieutenant Gore, having the morning watch at the time we first saw this island, thought he saw land bearing South-South-East and South-East by East; but I, who was upon deck at the same time, was very certain that it was only clouds, which dissipated as the sun rose. But neither this, nor the running fourteen leagues to the south, nor the seeing no land to the eastward of us in the evening, could satisfy Mr. Gore but what he saw in the morning was, or might be, land; although there was hardly a possibility of its being so, because we must have been more than double the distance from it at that time to what we were either last night or this morning, at both of which times the weather was exceedingly clear, and yet we could see no land either to the eastward or southward of us.

    Notwithstanding all this, Mr. Gore was of the same opinion this morning; upon this I ordered the ship to be wore, and to be steered East-South-East by compass on the other tack—the point on which he said the land bore at this time from us.*

    (Another instance of the general desire to leave nothing unexplored.)

    At noon we were in the latitude of 44°7′ South; the south point of Banks Island bore North, distant five leagues.

  237. 18 February 1770

    Search for Imaginary Land—Course Altered Westward

    Gentle breezes at North and fair weather. P.M. stood East-South-East in search of Mr. Gore’s imaginary land until seven o’clock, at which time we had run twenty-eight miles since noon; but seeing no land but that which we had left, nor any signs of it, we bore away South by West, and continued upon that course until noon, when we found ourselves in the latitude of 45°16′ South.

    Our course and distance sailed since yesterday is South 8′ East, seventy miles; the south point of Banks Island bore North 6°30′ West, distant twenty-eight leagues; variation per amplitude this morning 15°30′ East.

    Seeing no signs of land, I thought it to no purpose standing any farther to the southward, and therefore hauled to the westward, thinking we were far enough to the southward to weather all the land we had left; but this opinion was only founded on the information we had had from the natives of Queen Charlotte’s Sound.*

    (The ship was still 250 miles from the south point of New Zealand.)

  238. 19 February 1770

    Fresh Gale from the South—Land Sighted to the West

    P.M. had a moderate breeze at North-North-West and North until eight o’clock, when it fell little wind and was very unsettled until ten, at which time it fixed at South, and freshened in such a manner that before the morning it brought us under our close-reefed topsails.

    At eight a.m., having run twenty-eight leagues upon a West by North ½ North course, and now judging ourselves to be to the westward of the land of Tovy Poenammu, we bore away North-West with a fresh gale at South. At ten o’clock, having run eleven miles upon this course, we saw land extending from the South-West to the North-West, at the distance of about ten leagues from us, which we hauled up for.

    At noon our latitude per observation was 44°38′ South; the south-east point of Banks Island bore North 59°30′ East, distant thirty leagues, and the main body of the land in sight bore West by North. Course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon is North 66°45′ West, ninety-six miles.

  239. 20 February 1770

    Off the Low, Barren Coast South of Banks Island

    All P.M. had little wind, which veered round from South by East to North-North-East. Steered South-South-West, but got very little to the southward on account of a head sea. At two o’clock sounded in thirty-five fathoms, fine sandy bottom, being about six leagues from the land.

    At seven o’clock the extremes of the land extended from South-West by South to North by West, distant from the nearest shore six leagues; depth of water thirty-two fathoms. At twelve o’clock it fell calm, and continued so until four a.m., when a fresh breeze sprung up at South by West, with which we stood inshore West by South four leagues, our depth of water from thirty-two to thirteen fathoms.

    In this last depth we tacked and stood off, being about three miles from the shore, which lies nearly north and south, and is here very low and flat, continuing so up to the skirts of the hills, which are at least four or five miles inland. The whole face of the country appears barren, nor did we see any signs of inhabitants.*

    (This is a little south of Timaru, a rising town in a fertile district; so deceptive is appearance from the sea.)

    Latitude at noon: 44°44′ South.

    Longitude made from Banks’ Island to this land: 2°22′ West.

  240. 21 February 1770

    Driven Leeward by a Fresh South Wind

    Wind at South. A fresh Gale at 2 p.m., being in 50 fathoms, and 12 Leagues from the land, we tack’d and stood in Shore until 8 o’Clock, when we Tack’d and Stood off until 4 a.m.; then Tack’d and Stood in, at 8 o’Clock being 10 Leagues from the Land; had 57 fathoms. At Noon, being in the Latitude 44 degrees 35 minutes, and 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, had 36 fathoms; notwithstanding we have Carried as much sail as the Ship could bear, it is apparent from the observed Latitudes that we have been drove 3 Leagues to leeward since Yesterday.

  241. 22 February 1770

    Plying to Windward amid Gloom and Swell

    Moderate breezes between the South-East and South by West, and dark gloomy weather, with a Swell from the South-East plying to windward, keeping between 4 and 12 Leagues from the land; depth of water from 35 to 53 fathoms, fine sandy bottom. A great many Sea fowl and Grampusses about the Ship. In the A.M. Condemn’d 60 fathoms of the B.B. Cable,* (* B.B. stands for Best Bower, one of the principal cables. The hempen cables of those days were a continual cause of solicitude, and required great care.) and converted it into Junk; at Noon had no Observation, but by the land judged ourselves to be about 3 Leagues farther North than Yesterday.

  242. 23 February 1770

    Sight of a High Peaked Mountain

    Winds southerly, a gentle breeze, and for the most part cloudy weather. At sunset, the weather clearing up, presented to our view a high peaked mountain* bearing North-West by North, and at the same time we saw the land more distinct than at any time before, extending from North to South-West by South, the inland parts of which appeared to be high and mountainous.

    We cannot yet tell whether or not this land joins to, or makes a part of, the land we have left; from the accounts received from the natives of Queen Charlotte’s Sound it ought not, because if it did, it must have been impossible for us to have sailed round it in four days. Besides, the mountains inland and the soundings off the coast seem to indicate this country to be more extensive than any they spoke of lying to the southward.

    Having a large hollow swell from the South-East, which made me expect the wind from the same quarter, we kept plying from seven to fifteen leagues from the land, depth of water forty-four to seventy fathoms.

    At noon our latitude by observation was 44°40′ South; longitude made from Banks’s Island 1°31′ West.

    (There are so many lofty mountains in this region that it is impossible to identify this. The ship was now no farther south than she had been five days earlier.)

  243. 24 February 1770

    A Fresh Gale and Sight of the Southern Land

    Calm until six p.m., at which time a light breeze sprung up at East-North-East, with which we steered South-South-East all night, edging off from the land because of a hollow swell which we had from the South-East; depth of water from sixty to seventy-five fathoms.

    At daylight the wind began to freshen, and before noon blew a fresh gale and veered to North-North-East. At eight a.m. saw the land extending as far as South-West by South, which we steered directly for, and at noon we were in the latitude of 45°22′ South; the land in sight extending from South-West ½ South to North-North-West, making high and hilly. Course and distance run since yesterday at noon is South 15° West, forty-seven miles.

    In the P.M., while we lay becalmed, Mr. Banks, in a small boat, shot two Port Egmont Hens, which were in every respect the same sort of birds as are found in great numbers upon the Island of Faro; they are of a very dark brown plumage, with a little white about the underside of their wings, and are as large as a Muscovy duck. These were the first that we have seen since we arrived upon the coast of this country, though we had seen some for several days before we made land.

  244. 25 February 1770

    Rounding Cape Saunders

    In the P.M. steered South-West by South and South-West, edging in for the land, having the advantage of a fresh gale at North, which I was over-desirous of making the most of, and by that means carried away the main topgallant mast and foretopmast steering-sail boom; but these were soon replaced by others.

    Although we kept at no great distance from the shore, the weather was so hazy that we could see nothing distinct upon the land, only that there was a ridge of pretty high hills lying parallel with, and but a little way from, the sea coast, which lies South by West and North by East, and seemed to end in a high bluff point to the southward. We ran the length of this by eight o’clock, when, being dark and not knowing how the land trended, we brought to for the night, having run fifteen leagues upon a South-West ½ West course since noon. The point bore at this time West, distant about five miles; depth of water thirty-seven fathoms, the bottom small pebbly stones.

    At four a.m. we made sail, but by this time the northerly wind was gone and was succeeded by one from the southward, which proved very variable and unsteady. At daylight the point above mentioned bore North, distant three leagues, and we found that the land trended away from it South-West by West as far as we could see.

    This point of land I have named Cape Saunders, in honour of Sir Charles Saunders (latitude 45°55′ South; longitude 189°04′ West).* It requires no description to know it by—the latitude and the angle made here by the coast will be found quite sufficient; however, there is a remarkable saddle hill lying near the shore, three or four leagues south-west of the Cape. From one to four leagues north of the Cape the shore seemed to form two or three bays, wherein there appeared to be anchorage and shelter from south-west, westerly, and north-west winds.*

    (One of these is Otago Harbour, where lies Dunedin, perhaps the most important commercial city in New Zealand.)

    I had some thoughts of bearing up for one of these places in the morning when the wind came to the south-west, but the fear of losing time and the desire I had of pushing to the southward, in order to see as much of the coast as possible—or, if this land should prove to be an island, to get round it—prevented me.

    Being not far from the shore all this morning, we had an opportunity of viewing the land pretty distinctly; it is of a moderate height, full of hills which appeared green and woody, but we saw not the least signs of inhabitants.

    At noon Cape Saunders bore North 30° West, distant four leagues.
    Latitude per log (for we had no observation): 46°00′ South.

  245. 26 February 1770

    A Violent Storm off Cape Saunders

    In the P.M. had the wind Whifling all round the Compass, sometimes blowing a fresh Gale, and at other times almost Calm. At 5 o’Clock it fixed at West-South-West, and soon blow’d so hard as to put us past our Topsails, and to split the foresail all to pieces. After getting another to the Yard, we continued standing to the Southward under 2 Courses. At 1 A.M. the wind Moderating, set the Topsails with one Reef out; but soon after day light the Gale increased to a Storm, with heavy Squalls, attended with rain. This brought us again under our Courses, and the Main Topsail being Split we unbent it and bent another. At 6 o’Clock the Southermost land in sight bore West by North, and Cape Saunders bore North by West, distant 8 Leagues; at Noon it bore North 20 minutes West, distant 14 Leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 35 minutes.

  246. 27 February 1770

    Heavy Gale and High Seas

    A very hard gale at South-West by West, and West-South-West, with heavy squalls attended with showers of rain, and a large hollow sea, without the least intermission the whole of this 24 hours. We continued under our Courses from Noon until 7 P.M., when we handed the Mainsail, and lay to under the Foresail with the head to the Southward. Latitude at Noon 46 degrees 54 minutes South; Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 degree 24 minutes East.

  247. 28 February 1770

    Continuing the Gale—Turning Northward

    Strong gale at South-West, with a large sea from the same quarter. At 7 P.M. made sail under the Courses; at 8 A.M. set the Topsails close reefed. At Noon, being in the Latitude of 47 degrees 43 minutes South, and Longitude 2 degrees 10 minutes East from Cape Saunders, wore and stood to the Northward.

  248. 1 March 1770

    Variable Winds and Drizzling Weather

    Winds between the South-West and North-North-West, a fresh gale. In the P.M. found the Variation to be 16 degrees 34 minutes East. At 8 Tack’d and stood to the Southward, with the wind at West, which before the morning veer’d to North-West, accompanied with hazy weather and drizzling rain. At daylight loosed a reef out of each Topsail and set some of the small sails. At Noon our Latitude by account was 47 degrees 52 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 degree 8 minutes East.

  249. 2 March 1770

    Heavy Gales and High Seas

    Strong gales from the West, with heavy squalls attended with showers of rain. In the P.M. stood to the Southward till half-past 3, when being in Latitude 48 degrees 0 minutes South and Longitude 188 degrees 00 minutes West, and seeing no visible signs of land, we tack’d and stood to the Northward, having a very large swell from the South-West by West. Soon after we tack’d we close reef’d the Topsails, and in the night were obliged to hand them, but at daylight set them again. At Noon our Latitude by observation was 46 degrees 42 minutes South, Cape Saunders bearing North 46 degrees West, distant 68 miles.

  250. 3 March 1770

    Moderate Weather and a Persistent Swell

    P.M. wind and weather as yesterday. A.M. quite moderate, yet the South-West swell continues, which makes me conjecture that there is no land near in that quarter. At Noon our Latitude was 46 degrees 42 minutes South, being East of Cape Saunders 1 degree 30 minutes.

  251. 4 March 1770

    North Winds and Sea Life Sightings

    At 4 p.m. the wind coming to the Northward, we stood to the Westward with all the sail we could make. In the morning got up Topgallant yards and set the sails; found the Variation to be 16 degrees 16 minutes East. Saw several whales, seals, and one penguin — this bird was small of the sort, but seemed to be one we had never seen before. We have seen several seals since we passed the Straits but never one upon the whole coast of Aeheinomouwe. We sounded both in the night and the morning, but found no bottom with 150 fathoms of line. At Noon we saw Cape Saunders bearing North 1/2 West; our Latitude by observation was 46 degrees 31 minutes South.* (The Endeavour had been blown off the land for seven days and had barely recovered her position.)

  252. 5 March 1770

    Land Sighted to the West—Southern Point in View

    Most part of the P.M. had a fresh breeze at North by East. At half past 1 saw land bearing West by South, which we steer’d for; before dark we were within 3 or 4 leagues of it, and seeing no land farther to the south, we were in hopes this would prove the southern point. At 7 shortened sail and kept under an easy sail all night, standing to the West-South-West, having the wind at North-West and North-North-West until 2 a.m., when it fell calm; soon after a breeze sprung up at South-East by South, and daylight coming on, we made sail. During the whole night we saw a large fire upon the land—a certain sign of its being inhabited.

    At 7 the extremes of the land bore from North 38 degrees East to West 6 minutes South, being distant from the shore about 3 leagues. The land appear’d of moderate height and not hilly. At half past 10 o’clock the westernmost land in sight bore West 1/2 North, distant 7 leagues. At Noon had fresh gales at South-South-East and thick, hazy weather with rain. Our Latitude by account was 46 degrees 50 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 degree 56 minutes West.

    (The ship was now off the south point of the Middle Island.)

  253. 6 March 1770

    Unsettled Winds and Uncertain Landfalls

    P.M. winds at South by East and South-East, and thick hazy weather until 3 o’clock, when it clear’d up and we saw the land extending from North-East by North to North-West 1/2 North, and soon after low land, making like an island, bearing West 1/2 South. Keeping on our course to the West by South, we in two hours’ time saw high land over the low, extending to the southward as far as South-West by South; we could not see this land join to that to the northward of us—there either being a total separation, a deep bay, or low land between them.

    At 8 o’clock, being within 3 leagues of the low land (which we now took to be an island* (Ruapuke Island.)), we tack’d and stood to the Eastward, having the wind at South, which proved very unsettled all night. By this means, and a little bad management, I found the ship in the morning considerably farther to the eastward than I expected, and the wind afterwards coming to South-West and West-South-West, so that at noon we found ourselves much about the same place as yesterday. Our latitude by observation was 46 degrees 50 minutes South, the land extending from North-East by East to West by North 1/2 North, the nearest part bearing North, distance 3 leagues, the land to the South-West just in sight.

  254. 7 March 1770

    Calms and Magnetic Variations

    Light airs in the South-West quarter. P.M. clear weather, remainder dark and cloudy. In the P.M. found the variation per several azimuths and the amplitude to be 15 degrees 10 minutes East, and by the amplitude in the morning to be 15 degrees 56 minutes East. Stood to the South-East until 8 a.m., then tack’d and stood to the North-West; but it soon after fell calm and continued so until noon, when by our account we were in the latitude of 47 degrees 6 minutes South, and had made 12 miles easting since yesterday at noon.

  255. 8 March 1770

    Calm Seas and Elusive Land

    Light airs next to a calm from South-South-East to North-East, with which we kept steering to the South-West, but made little way because of a swell which took us right ahead. At daylight A.M. we saw—or thought we saw—from the masthead the land which we had left to the northward of us joined to that to the South-West of us; and at the same time we imagined we saw the land extend to the southward as far as South-South-West. But after steering this course until noon we discovered our mistake, for there was no land to be seen to the southward of West. We then steer’d that course, being by observation in latitude 47 degrees 12 minutes South, and longitude made from Cape Saunders 2 degrees 2 minutes West.

  256. 9 March 1770

    The Traps and a Narrow Escape

    P.M. winds at North, a gentle breeze and clear weather. Stood to the westward until sunset, at which time the extremities of the land bore from North by East to West, distant about 7 or 8 leagues; depth of water 55 fathoms; variation by the amplitude 16 degrees 29 minutes East. The wind now veer’d to the westward, and as the weather was fine and moonlight we kept standing close upon a wind to the South-West all night.

    At 4 a.m. sounded and had 60 fathoms; at daylight we discovered under our lee bow ledges of rocks on which the sea broke very high, extending from South by West to West by South, and not above 3/4 of a mile from us; yet upon sounding we had 45 fathoms, a rocky bottom. The wind being at North-West we could not weather the ledge, and as I did not care to run to leeward, we tacked and made a trip to the Eastward; but the wind soon after coming to the North enabled us to go clear of all. Our soundings in passing within the ledge were from 35 to 47 fathoms, a rocky bottom.

    This ledge lies South-East, 6 leagues from the southernmost part of the land, and South-East by South from some remarkable hills which stand near the shore. These rocks are not the only dangers that lie here, for about 3 leagues to the northward of them is another ledge of rocks, lying full 3 leagues from the land, whereon the sea broke very high. As we passed these rocks in the night at no great distance, and discovered the others close under our lee at daylight, it is apparent that we had a very fortunate escape. I have named them the Traps, because they lie as such to catch unwary strangers.* (The dangerous Traps lie south and east of the South Island of New Zealand. The Endeavour had now at last got to the southward of the land. There is a small but high rock farther south—the Snares—that Cook did not sight this voyage.)

    At noon our latitude per observation was 47 degrees 26 minutes South; longitude made from Cape Saunders 3 degrees 4 minutes West. The land in sight—which has very much the appearance of an island* (South or Stewart Island.)—extended North-East by North to North-West by West, distant from the shore about 4 or 5 leagues. The easternmost ledge of rocks bore South-South-East, distant 1 1/2 leagues, and the northernmost North-East 1/2 East, 3 leagues. This land is of a moderate height and has a very barren aspect; not a tree to be seen upon it, only a few small shrubs. There were several white patches on which the sun’s rays reflected very strongly, which I take to be a kind of marble such as we have seen in many places of this country, particularly to the northward.

  257. 10 March 1770

    Rounding the South Cape

    P.M. moderate breezes at North-West by North and North, with which we stood close upon a wind to the westward. At sunset the southernmost point of land, which I afterwards named South Cape (South Cape is the southern point of Stewart Island. Cook’s position for it is wonderfully exact.), and which lies in latitude 47 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 192 degrees 12 minutes West from Greenwich, bore North 38 degrees East, distant 4 leagues, and the westernmost land in sight bore North 2 degrees East. This last was a small island lying off the point of the main (Long Island, which lies, with others, on the west side of Stewart Island).

    I began now to think that this was the southernmost land, and that we should be able to get round it by the west, for we have had a large hollow swell from the South-West ever since we had the last gale of wind from that quarter, which makes one think there is no land in that direction. In the night it began to blow, so that at or before daylight we were brought under our two courses; but at 8 a.m. it fell moderate, and we set the topsails close-reefed, and the mizzen and mizzen staysail being split, we unbent them and bent others.

    At noon, the wind coming at West, we tacked and stood to the northward, having no land in sight; our latitude by observation was 47 degrees 33 minutes South, longitude west from the South Cape 0 degrees 59 minutes.

  258. 11 March 1770

    The Solander Island and the Rugged Southern Coast

    Winds between the West and North-West, a fresh gale and clear weather. Stood away North-North-East close upon a wind without seeing any land until 2 a.m., when we discovered an island bearing North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 leagues. Two hours after this we saw the land ahead, upon which we tacked and stood off until 6 o’clock; then stood in, in order to take a nearer view of it.

    At 11, being about 3 leagues from the land and the wind seeming to incline onshore, we tacked and stood off to the southward. We now thought that the land to the southward, or that which we have been sailing round these two days past, was an island, because there appeared an open channel between the north part of that land and the south part of the other, in which we thought we saw the small island we were in with on the 6th instant. But when I came to lay this land down upon paper from the several bearings I had taken, it appeared that there was but little reason to suppose it an island. On the contrary, I hardly have a doubt but what it joins to and makes a part of the mainland* (Cook was deceived, as Stewart is in fact an island).

    The western extremity of this land bore at noon North 59 degrees West, and the island seen in the morning (this was called by Cook Solander Island*) South 59 degrees West, distant 5 leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 24 minutes South, longitude 192 degrees 49 minutes West. It is nothing but a barren rock of about a mile in circuit, remarkably high, and lies full 5 leagues from the main. The shore of the main lies nearest East by South and West by North, and forms a large open bay, in which there is no appearance of a harbour or other place of safety for shipping against South-West and Southerly winds. The face of the country bears a very rugged aspect, being full of high craggy hills, on the summits of which were several patches of snow. However, the land is not wholly barren; we could see wood not only in the valleys but on several of the hills—though we saw no signs of inhabitants.

  259. 12 March 1770

    South-West Gales and a Heavy Sea

    Fresh gales between the West and North-West; latter part squally with rain. Stood to the South-West by South until 11 a.m., at which time the wind shifted to the South-West by West. We wore and stood to the North-North-West, being then in the latitude of 47 degrees 40 minutes South and longitude 193 degrees 50 minutes West, having a hollow sea from the South-West.

  260. 13 March 1770

    Heavy Squalls and Sight of Land Again

    Strong gale between the South-West by West and South-South-West, with a large hollow sea from the same quarter. In the P.M. had frequent squalls with showers of rain; in the night several very heavy squalls attended with showers of hail, which obliged us to take in our topsails.

    During the night steered North-North-West until 6 a.m., when, seeing no land, we steered North by East and set the main topsail, single reefed. At 8 set the foretopsail, single reefed, and loosed all the reefs out of the maintopsail, steering North-East by East ½ East in order to make the land. At 10 saw it bearing East-North-East, and it appeared to be very high; but, being hazy over it, we could see nothing distinct, neither now nor at noon, when by observation we were in latitude 46 degrees 0 minutes South.

    Course and distance sailed since yesterday: North 5 degrees West, 96 miles. Longitude made from the South Cape: 1 degree 40 minutes West.

  261. 14 March 1770

    Discovery of Dusky Bay and West Cape

    In the P.M. had a fresh gale from the southward, attended with squalls. At 2 it cleared up over the land, which appeared high and mountainous. At half past 3 double-reefed the topsails and hauled in for a bay, wherein there appeared to be good anchorage, and into which I had thought of going with the ship; but after standing in an hour, we found the distance too great to run before dark, and it blew too hard to attempt it in the night, or even to keep to windward. For these reasons we gave it up and bore away along shore.

    This bay I have named Dusky Bay. It lies in latitude 45°47′ South; it is about 3 or 4 miles broad at the entrance and seems to be full as deep. In it are several islands, behind which there must be shelter from all winds, provided there is a sufficient depth of water.* (Dusky Bay is one of the grand fiords of New Zealand’s southern coast, later thoroughly surveyed by Cook on his second voyage. The Endeavour endured much tempestuous weather rounding the south end of New Zealand, but Cook’s persistence gave him a remarkably complete chart of the coast.)

    The north point of this bay, when it bears South-East by South, is very remarkable, there being off it five high peaked rocks standing up like the four fingers and thumb of a man’s hand; on which account I have named it Point Five Fingers. The land of this point is farther remarkable by being the only level land near it, extending nearly two leagues to the northward. It is pretty high, wholly covered with wood, and has much the appearance of an island, its aspect being so very different from the land behind it, which is nothing but barren, rocky mountains.

    At sunset the southermost land in sight bore due south, distant 5 or 6 leagues; and as this is the westernmost point of land upon the whole coast, I have called it West Cape. It lies about 3 leagues to the southward of Dusky Bay, in latitude 45°54′ South and longitude 193°17′ West. The land of this cape seems to be of moderate height next the sea and has nothing remarkable about it except a very white cliff 2 or 3 leagues to the southward. The land to the southward of Cape West trends away towards the south-east; to the northward it trends north-north-east and north-east.

    At 7 o’clock brought the ship to under the foresail, with her head off shore, having a fresh gale at South by East. At midnight it moderated; we wore and lay with her head inshore until 4 a.m., then made sail and steered along shore North-East ½ North, having a moderate breeze at South-South-East.

    At noon we were by observation in latitude 45°13′ South. Course and distance sailed since yesterday: North 41° East, 62 miles. Longitude made from Cape West 0°29′ East, being at this time about 1½ leagues from shore. Sounded, and had no ground with 70 fathoms of line.

    A little before noon we passed a narrow opening in the land, where there appeared to be a very snug harbour,* (Doubtful Sound, another of the magnificent fiords of this coast.) formed by an island, in latitude 45°16′ South. Inland, behind this opening, were mountains whose summits were covered with snow that seemed to have fallen lately—no wonder, for we have found it very cold for these two days past. The land on each side of the entrance of this harbour rises almost perpendicular from the sea to a very considerable height; and this was the reason I did not attempt to go in with the ship, for I saw clearly that no winds could blow there but what were right in or right out—that is, westerly or easterly—and it would have been highly imprudent to put into a place from which we could not have got out except with a wind that we have lately found to blow but one day in a month.

    I mention this because there were some on board who wanted me to harbour at any rate, without in the least considering either the present or future consequences.

  262. 15 March 1770

    Light Winds and Slow Progress Along the Coast

    Clear weather, winds at South-West and South-West by South, a gentle breeze, except in the night when we had variable light airs and calm. In the evening, being about two leagues from the land, we sounded but had no ground with 103 fathoms. Variation per azimuth 14° East, per amplitude 15°02′ East.

    With what wind we had, we made the best of our way along shore to the north-east, keeping at the distance of two or three leagues off from the land. At noon we were in latitude 44°47′ South, having run only twelve leagues upon a North-East ¼ North course since yesterday at noon. Longitude made from Cape West 1°03′ East.

  263. 16 March 1770

    Clear Weather and Steady Progress Northeast

    Winds at South-West; a fresh breeze and clear. Steered along shore North-East ¼ East until 6 p.m., when we shortened sail and brought to for the night. Variation per azimuth 13°48′ East.

    At 4 a.m. made sail and stood in for the land. At daylight saw the appearance of an inlet into the land, but upon a nearer approach found that it was only a deep valley bounded on each side by high lands. Upon this we bore away North-East ¼ East along shore, keeping about 4 or 5 miles off.

    At noon the northermost point of land in sight bore North 60° East, distant 10 miles. Latitude per observation 44°05′ South; longitude made from Cape West 2°08′ East.

  264. 17 March 1770

    Cascades Point and Shifting Soundings

    Continued our course along shore, having in the P.M. the advantage of a fresh gale at South-West. At 2, passed by the point afore-mentioned, which is of a moderate height, with deep red cliffs, down which fall four small streams of water—on which account it is named Cascades Point. Latitude 44°00′ South; longitude 2°20′ East from Cape West.

    From this point the land at first trends North 76° East, but afterwards more to the northward, East-North-East, for eight leagues. From this point, and near the shore, lies a small low island, which bore from us South by East, distant 1½ leagues.

    At 7 o’clock we shortened sail and brought to under the topsails, with her head off shore, having 33 fathoms and fine sandy bottom. At 10, had 50 fathoms, and at 12, wore in 65 fathoms, having driven about five miles North-North-West since we brought to. Two hours after this had no ground with 140 fathoms, which shows that the soundings extend but a little way from the land.

    From 2 to 8 a.m. had it calm and hazy, with drizzling rain, at which time a breeze sprung up at South-West, with which we steered along shore North-East by East ¼ East, keeping about three leagues from the land. At noon had no observation, being hazy with rain. Our run since yesterday at noon is North-East by East, 55 miles; longitude from Cape West 3°12′ East.

  265. 18 March 1770

    Snow on the Mountains and a Heavy Swell

    In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at South-West by West, attended with drizzling rain. At 8, being about three leagues from the land, shortened sail and brought to, having run ten leagues North-East by East since noon; at this time had 44 fathoms, and two hours before had 17 fathoms, fine sandy bottom, being then about one league from the land.

    Had it calm the most part of the night, and until 10 a.m., when a light breeze sprung up at South-West by West. We made sail along shore North-East by North, having a large swell from the West-South-West, which had risen in the night.

    At noon, latitude per observation 43°04′ South. Course and distance sailed since yesterday: North 54° East, 54 miles. Longitude made from Cape West 4°12′ East.

    The mountains and some of the valleys we observed this morning were wholly covered with snow—part of which we supposed to have fallen in the P.M. and fore part of the night, at the time that we had rain—and yet the weather was not cold. (They did not see Mount Cook, 12,300 feet high, the highest mountain in New Zealand; its summit was no doubt hidden in the clouds.)

  266. 19 March 1770

    Fresh Winds and Steady Progress Northeast

    In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at South-West by West and West-South-West, which we made the most of until 6, when we shortened sail; at 10 brought to and sounded 115 fathoms, judging ourselves to be about five leagues from the land.

    At midnight it fell little wind, on which account we made sail. At 8 a.m. the wind veered to the North-West by North, with which we stood to the North-East close upon a wind until noon, at which time we tacked, being about three leagues from the land, and by observation in latitude 42°08′ South and longitude from Cape West 5°05′ East.* (The Endeavour had now passed the mouth of the Grey River, in the district of the great coalfields of New Zealand.)

    Course and distance run since yesterday at noon: North 35° East, 68 miles. Depth of water: 65 fathoms. The land extended from North-East by North to South-South-West.

  267. 20 March 1770

    Heavy Weather and Hard Beating to Windward

    Fresh gales at North-West by North and North by West. P.M. fair weather; the remainder hazy, with rain and squalls, which brought us under close-reefed topsails.

    Stood to the westward until 2 a.m., when we made a trip to the eastward, and afterwards stood to the westward until noon, when, by our reckoning, we were in latitude 42°23′ South. Course and distance sailed: South 74° West, 54 miles. Longitude made from Cape West 5°55′ East. Tacked and stood to the eastward.

  268. 21 March 1770

    Fog, Swell, and Caution Near the Coast

    In the P.M. had a fresh gale at North by West, attended with rain until 6, when the wind shifted to South and South-South-West, and continued to blow a fresh gale. With this we steered North-East by North until 6 a.m., at which time we hauled in East by North in order to make the land, which we saw soon after.

    At noon our latitude per account was 41°37′ South, and longitude from Cape West 5°42′ East. Course and distance sailed since yesterday: North 60° East, 92 miles.

    At this time we were not above three or four leagues from the land, but it being very foggy upon it, we could see nothing distinct; and as we had not much wind and a prodigious swell rolling in upon the shore from the West-South-West, I did not think it safe to go nearer.

  269. 22 March 1770

    Calm Seas and Dangerous Swell Near the Shore

    In the P.M. had a gentle breeze from the South-South-West, with which we steered along shore North-East until 8, when, being about two or three leagues from shore, we sounded and had 34 fathoms. Upon this we hauled off North-West by North until 11, then brought to, having at this time 64 fathoms.

    At 4 a.m. made sail to the North-East, the wind at South-South-West, a light breeze. At 8 the wind veered to the westward and soon after fell calm. At this time we were about three or four miles from the shore and in 54 fathoms, having a large swell from the West-South-West rolling obliquely upon the shore, which put me under a good deal of apprehension that we might be obliged to anchor; but by the help of a light air now and then from the South-West quarter we were enabled to keep the ship from driving much nearer the land.

    At noon the northermost land in sight bore North-East by East ¼ East, distant eight or ten leagues. Our latitude by account was 40°55′ South, longitude from Cape West 6°35′ East. Course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon: North 36° East, 42 miles. Very foggy over the land.

  270. 23 March 1770

    Description of the North-West Coast of Tovy Poenammu

    Light airs from the southward, at intervals calm; the fore part hazy, the remainder clear, pleasant weather. At noon our latitude by observation was 40°36′30″ South, longitude from Cape West 6°52′ East. The eastermost point of land in sight (Cape Farewell, the north point of the Middle Island) bore East 10° North, distant 7 leagues, and a bluff head or point we were abreast of yesterday at noon, off which lay some rocks above water, bore South 18° West, distant 6 leagues. This point I have named Rocks Point, latitude 40°55′ South.

    Having now nearly run down the whole of this north-west coast of Tovy Poenammu, it is time I should describe the face of the country as it hath at different times appeared to us. I have mentioned on the 11th instant, at which time we were off the southern part of the island, that the land seen then was rugged and mountainous; and there is great reason to believe that the same ridge of mountains extends nearly the whole length of the island from between the westernmost land seen that day and the easternmost seen on the 13th.

    There is a space of about six or eight leagues of the sea coast unexplored, but the mountains inland were visible enough. The land near the shore about Cape West is rather low, and riseth with a gradual ascent up to the foot of the mountains, and appeared to be mostly covered with wood. From Point Five Fingers down to the latitude of 44°20′ there is a narrow ridge of hills rising directly from the sea, which are clothed with wood; close behind these hills lies the ridge of mountains, which are of a prodigious height, and appear to consist of nothing but barren rocks, covered in many places with large patches of snow, which perhaps have lain there since the Creation.

    No country upon earth can appear with a more rugged and barren aspect than this doth; from the sea, for as far inland as the eye can reach, nothing is to be seen but the summits of these rocky mountains, which seem to lie so near one another as not to admit any valleys between them. From the latitude of 44°20′ to the latitude 42°8′ these mountains lie farther inland; the country between them and the sea consists of woody hills and valleys of various extent, both for height and depth, and hath much the appearance of fertility. Many of the valleys are large, low, and flat, and appeared to be wholly covered with wood; but it is very probable that great part of the land is taken up in lakes, ponds, etc., as is very common in such like places.

    From the last-mentioned latitude to Cape Farewell, afterwards so called, the land is not distinguished by anything remarkable; it rises into hills directly from the sea and is covered with wood. While we were upon this part of the coast the weather was foggy, so that we could see but a very little way inland; however, we sometimes saw the summits of the mountains above the fog and clouds, which plainly showed that the inland parts were high and mountainous, and gave me great reason to think that there is a continued chain of mountains from one end of the island to the other. (This is, to a great extent, the case.)

  271. 24 March 1770

    Approaching Cape Farewell

    In the P.M. had a gentle breeze at South-West, which by dark ran us the length of the eastern point set at noon, and not knowing what course the land took on the other side, we brought to in 34 fathoms, about one league from the land. At 8, it falling little wind, we filled and stood on until 12, at which time we brought to until 4 a.m., then made sail.

    At daylight we saw low land extending from the above point to the East-South-East as far as the eye could reach, the eastern extremity of which appeared in round hillocks. By this time the wind had veered to the eastward, which obliged us to ply to windward.

    At noon the point above mentioned bore South-West by South, distant 16 miles; latitude observed 40°19′ South. This point I afterwards named Cape Farewell, for reasons which will be given in their proper place.

  272. 25 March 1770

    Light Winds and Rain

    Winds easterly; towards noon had little wind and hazy weather, with rain. Made several trips but gained nothing to windward, so that at noon our situation was nearly as yesterday.

  273. 26 March 1770

    Return to the Vicinity of Queen Charlotte’s Sound

    At 3 p.m. the wind came to the north, and we steered East-South-East with all the sail we could set until dark, when we shortened sail until morning, having thick, misty weather. All night we kept the lead going continually and had from 37 to 48 fathoms.

    At daylight we saw the land bearing South-East by East, and an island lying near it bearing East-South-East, distant five leagues. This I knew to be the island (Stephens Island) seen from the entrance of Queen Charlotte’s Sound, from which it bears North-West by North, distant nine leagues.

    At noon it bore South-East, distant four or five miles, and the North-West head of Queen Charlotte’s Sound bore South-East by South, distant 10½ leagues; latitude observed 43°33′ South.

  274. 27 March 1770

    Anchored in Admiralty Bay for Wood and Water

    Fresh breeze of wind westerly, and hazy, misty weather with drizzling rain. As we have now circumnavigated the whole of this country, it is time for me to think of quitting it; but before doing so it will be necessary to complete our water first, especially as we have on board above 30 tons of casks empty.

    Knowing that there is a bay between the above-mentioned island and Queen Charlotte’s Sound, wherein no doubt there is anchorage and convenient watering places, we hauled round the island and into the bay (Admiralty Bay) in the P.M., leaving three more islands (Rangitoto Islets) on our starboard hand, which lie close under the west shore, three or four miles within the entrance.

    As we ran in, we kept the lead going and had from 40 to 12 fathoms. At 6 we anchored in 11 fathoms, muddy bottom, under the west shore, in the second cove within the fore-mentioned island.

    At daylight I took a boat and went to look for a watering place and a proper berth to moor the ship in, both of which I found convenient enough. After the ship was moored, I sent an officer ashore to superintend the watering, and the carpenter with his crew to cut wood, while the longboat was employed carrying on shore empty casks.

  275. 28 March 1770

    Wooding, Watering, and Fishing in Admiralty Bay

    Winds westerly, which in the A.M. blew a fresh gale attended with rain. Employed getting on board wood and water, and fishing — in the latter we were pretty successful.

  276. 29 March 1770

    Strong Westerly Gale and Rainy Weather

    In the P.M. had a strong gale from the westward. A.M. variable light airs from the eastward, with hazy, rainy weather the whole day; which, however, did not prevent us from getting on board wood and water.

  277. 30 March 1770

    Exploring Admiralty Bay Before Departure

    Admiralty Bay

    Winds at south-east, a moderate breeze; the first and middle part dark, hazy weather with rain, the latter fair. In the A.M., as the wind seemed settled at south-east, and having nearly completed our water, we warped the ship out of the cove in order to have room to get under sail.

    Before this was done it was noon, at which time I went away in the pinnace to examine the bay and explore as much of it as the little time I had would admit.

  278. 31 March 1770

    Exploring Admiralty Bay Before Departure

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “In the P.M., after rowing a league and a half or two leagues up the bay, I landed upon a point of land on the west side, where, from an eminence, I could see this western arm of the bay run in south-west by west about five leagues farther, yet did not see the head of it. There appeared to be several other inlets, or at least small bays, between this and the north-west head of Queen Charlotte’s Sound, in every one of which I make no doubt there is anchorage and shelter for shipping, as they are partly covered from the sea wind by the islands that lie without them.

    The land about this bay, at least what I could see of it, is of a very hilly, uneven surface, and appears to be mostly covered with wood, shrubs, ferns, etc., which renders travelling both difficult and fatiguing. I saw no inhabitants, nor have we seen any since we have been in this bay, but met with several of their huts, all of which appeared to have been at least twelve months deserted.

    Upon my return to the ship in the evening, I found the water, etc., all on board, and the ship ready for sea; and being now resolved to quit this country altogether, and to bend my thoughts toward returning home by such a route as might conduce most to the advantage of the service I am upon, I consulted with the officers upon the most eligible way of putting this in execution.

    To return by the way of Cape Horn was what I most wished, because by this route we should have been able to prove the existence or non-existence of a southern continent, which yet remains doubtful; but in order to ascertain this we must have kept in a higher latitude in the very depth of winter, and the condition of the ship, in every respect, was not thought sufficient for such an undertaking.

    For the same reason the thoughts of proceeding directly to the Cape of Good Hope were laid aside, especially as no discovery of any moment could be hoped for in that route. It was therefore resolved to return by way of the East Indies, by the following route: upon leaving this coast, to steer to the westward until we fall in with the east coast of New Holland, and then to follow the direction of that coast to the northward, or whatever direction it might take us, until we arrive at its northern extremity; and if this should be found impracticable, then to endeavour to fall in with the land or islands discovered by Quiros.*

    (Quiros, a Spanish navigator, discovered in 1605 Espiritu Santo, the northern island of the New Hebrides, which he supposed to be a part of a great southern continent. Cook, in his second voyage, thoroughly explored the New Hebrides group; and for some of the islands his charts are still the only guide.)

    With this view, at daylight we got under sail and put to sea, having the advantage of a fresh gale at South-East and clear weather. At noon the island which lies off the north-west point of the bay bore East 9° South, distant 10 miles; our latitude by observation was 40°35′ South.

    This bay I have named Admiralty Bay; the north-west point Cape Stephens, and the east point Jackson, after the two secretaries.*

    (The two secretaries of the Admiralty, Philip Stephens and George Jackson, both of whom showed great appreciation of Cook.)

    It may always be known by the island above mentioned, which is pretty high and lies North-East, two miles from Cape Stephens (latitude 40°37′ South, longitude 185°06′ West). Between this island and Cape Farewell, which is West by North and East by South, distant 14 or 15 leagues from each other, the shore forms a large deep bay, the bottom of which we could hardly see in sailing in a straight line from one cape to the other.

    It is not improbable that it is all lowland next the sea, as we have met with less water here than on any other part of the coast at the same distance from land; however, a bay there is, and it is known on the chart by the name of Blind Bay, but I have reason to believe it to be Tasman’s Murderers’ Bay.*

    (Blind Bay is now also known as Tasman Bay, and Massacre Bay is supposed to be a smaller bay in it, on the north-western side.)

    Before I quit this land altogether, I shall give a short general description of the country, its inhabitants, their manners, customs, etc., in which it is necessary to observe that many things are founded only on conjecture, for we were too short a time in any one place to learn much of their interior policy, and therefore could only draw conclusions from what we saw at different times.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), March 31, 1770:

    “With this view, at break of day on Saturday the 31st of March 1770, we got under sail, and put to sea, with the advantage of a fresh gale at S. E. and clear weather, taking our departure from the eastern point, which we had seen at noon on the 23d, and to which, on this occasion, I gave the name of Cape Farewell.

    The bay out of which we had just sailed I called Admiralty Bay, giving the name of Cape Stephens to the north west point, and of Cape Jackson to the south east, after the two gentlemen who at this time were Secretaries to the Board.

    Admiralty Bay may easily be known by the island that has been just mentioned, which lies two miles N. E. of Cape Stephens, in latitude 40° 37′ S. longitude 185° 6′ W. and is of a considerable height. Between this island and Cape Farewell, which are between fourteen and fifteen leagues distant from each other, in the direction of W. by N. and E. by S. the shore forms a large deep bay, the bottom of which we could scarcely see while we were sailing in a strait line from one Cape to the other; it is, however, probably of less depth than it appeared to be, for as we found the water shallower here, than at the same distance from any other part of the coast, there is reason to suppose, that the land at the bottom which lies next the sea is low, and therefore not easily to be distinguished from it. I have for this reason called it Blind Bay, and am of opinion that it is the same which was called Murderer’s Bay by Tasman.

    Such particulars of this country and its inhabitants, with their manners and customs, as could be learnt while we were circumnavigating the coast, shall now be related.”

    _________

    “Having sailed from Cape Farewell, which lies in latitude 40° 33′ S. longitude 186° W. on Saturday the 31st of March 1770, we steered westward, with a fresh gale at N. N. E.”

    Banks’s Journal, March 31, 1770:

    “Our rout being settled in the manner above mentiond we this morn weighd and saild with a fair breeze of wind inclind to fall in with Van Diemens Land as near as possible to the place where Tasman left it.”

     

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  279. 1 April 1770

    Departure from New Zealand

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “In the P.M. had a moderate breeze at east, which in the night veered to the north-east and was attended with hazy, rainy weather. I have before made mention of our quitting New Zealand with an intention to steer to the westward, which we accordingly did, taking our departure from Cape Farewell in latitude 40°30′ south and longitude 185°58′ west from Greenwich, which bore from us at 5 p.m. west 18° north, distance 12 miles.

    After this we steered north-west and west-north-west, in order to give it a good berth, until 8 o’clock a.m., at which time we steered west, having the advantage of a fresh gale at north by east. At noon our latitude by account was 40°12′ south, longitude made from Cape Farewell 1°11′ west.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth): April 2, 1770:

    “… on the 2d of April, our latitude, by observation, was 40°, our longitude from Cape Farewell 2° 31′ W.” 

    Banks’s Journal, April 1, 1770:

    “Fresh breeze and fair all day.”

    Banks’s Journal, April 2, 1770:

    (Banks’s note on his theory that wort made from malt could help prevent scurvy at sea.)

    “Wind more to the westward but still fair.–Our malt having turnd out so indifferent that the Surgeon made little use of it a method was thought of some weeks ago to bring it into use, which was to make as strong a wort with it as possible and in this boil the wheat which is servd to the People for breakfast. It made a mess far from unpleasant which the people soon grew very fond of: myself who have for many months constantly breakfasted upon the same wheat as the people, either did or at least thought that I receivd great benefit from the use of this mess, it totaly banishd in me that troublesome Costiveness which I beleive most people are subject to when at sea.

    Whether or no this is a more beneficial method of administering wort as a preventative than the common must be left to the faculty, especialy that excellent surgeon Mr M’Bride whose ingenious treatise on the sea scurvy can never be enough commended. For my own part I should be inclind to beleive that the salubrious qualities of the wort which arise from fermentation might in some degree at least be communicated to the wheat when thouroughly saturated with its particles, which would consequently acquire a virtue similar to that of fresh vegetables, the most powerfull resisters of Sea scurvy known.

     

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  280. 2 April 1770

    Steady Progress Westward from New Zealand

    In the P.M. had a moderate gale at north, with thick hazy weather attended with rain. At 8 it fell little wind and veered to west-south-west, at which time we tacked. At midnight the wind came to south-south-west and increased to a brisk gale with fair, cloudy weather, which we made the most of as soon as it was daylight.

    At noon our latitude by observation was 40°00′ south, and longitude made from Cape Farewell 2°31′ west.

  281. 3 April 1770

    Fresh Gale from the South-West

    Cloudy weather; winds at south-west and south-south-west, a fresh gale, with which we made our course good north-west by west, and distance run from yesterday at noon to this day at noon 38½ leagues. Latitude by observation 38°56′ south; longitude made from Cape Farewell 4°36′ west.

  282. 4 April 1770

    Brisk Gale and Heavy Southern Swell

    Had a steady brisk gale at south-south-west, with some flying showers of rain and a large hollow sea from the southward. In the P.M. unbent the main topsail to repair, and brought another to the yard and set it close reefed.

    At noon our latitude by observation was 37°56′ south; course and distance since yesterday at noon north 60° west, 122 miles; longitude made from Cape Farewell 6°54′ west.

  283. 5 April 1770

    Fresh Gales from the South and South-East

    Fresh gales at south, which in the A.M. veered to south-east by south. At noon our latitude by observation was 37°23′ south; longitude made from Cape Farewell 9°10′ west. Course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon north 73°15′ west, 37 leagues.

  284. 6 April 1770

    Steady Southern Swell and Light Winds

    Winds between the south by east and south-east, with a continued swell from the south-south-west. At noon our latitude per observation 37°18′ south; course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon north 85° west, 58 miles. Longitude made from Cape Farewell 10°35′ west.

  285. 7 April 1770

    Gentle Breezes and Discipline Aboard

    Gentle breezes at north-east, which in the A.M. veered to north-west. In the P.M. found the variation by the mean of several azimuths to be 13°50′ east, being then in latitude 37°23′ south and longitude 196°44′ west.

    In the A.M. punished Jno. Bowles, marine, with 12 lashes for refusing to do his duty when ordered by the boatswain’s mate and serjeant of marines.

    At noon latitude per observation 37°35′ south; longitude made from Cape Farewell 11°34′ west; course and distance run since yesterday noon south 70°15′ west, 50 miles.

  286. 8 April 1770

    Gentle North-West Breezes and Steady Progress

    Gentle breezes from the north-west and north. In the P.M. found the variation to be 13°56′ east. At noon latitude per observation 38°00′ south; longitude made from Cape Farewell 13°02′ west. Course and distance sailed since yesterday noon south 70°15′ west, 74 miles.

  287. 9 April 1770

    Smooth Seas and a Rare Sight

    Gentle breezes at north-west; pleasant weather and a smooth sea. In the A.M. saw a tropic bird, which I believe is uncommon in such high latitudes. At noon latitude observed 38°29′ south; longitude made from Cape Farewell 14°45′ west. Course and distance sailed since yesterday noon south 70°15′ west, 86 miles.

  288. 10 April 1770

    Clear Weather and Steady Sailing

    Gentle breezes at north-west by north, and clear settled weather. In the A.M. found the variation by amplitude to be 11°25′ east, and by azimuth 11°20′. At noon the observed latitude was 38°51′ south, and longitude made from Cape Farewell 16°45′ west; longitude in 202°43′ west. Course and distance sailed since yesterday noon south 76°45′ west, 96 miles.

  289. 11 April 1770

    Shifting Magnetic Variation and Gentle Winds

    Gentle breezes from the north-west and pleasant weather, with a few light showers of rain. In the A.M. found the variation to be 13°48′ east—2½ degrees more than yesterday, though I should have expected it to be less, for the observations were equally good. At noon latitude 39°07′ south; longitude made from Cape Farewell 17°23′ west. Course and distance sailed since yesterday noon south 62° west, 34 miles.

  290. 12 April 1770

    Calm and Unseasonable Warmth

    Calm, with occasional light airs from the north-east and north-west; cloudy weather, but remarkably warm, as it has been for several days past. At noon we were in latitude 39°11′ south and longitude from Cape Farewell 17°35′ west. Course and distance sailed since yesterday noon south 66° west, 10 miles.

  291. 13 April 1770

    Light Airs and Pleasant Weather

    Light airs, next to a calm, with clear and pleasant weather; what little wind there was came from the north-west quarter. In the course of the day found the variation to be 12°27′ east. At noon, by observation, we were in latitude 39°23′ south and longitude 204°02′ west; course and distance since yesterday noon south 62° west, 26 miles; longitude made from Cape Farewell 18°04′ west.

  292. 14 April 1770

    Calm Weather and Sail Repairs

    Calm, serene weather, with occasional light airs from the northward. At sunset found the variation to be 11°28′ east, and in the morning 11°30′ east. The spritsail topsail, being worn to rags, was condemned as unfit for use and cut up to repair the two topgallant sails, which were themselves too far gone to merit new canvas, but with this addition may serve a while longer. At noon latitude 39°25′ south, longitude made from Cape Farewell 18°21′ west; course and distance since yesterday noon south 18° west, 13 miles.

  293. 15 April 1770

    Fresh Gale from the North and Flying Fish Sighted

    In the p.m. had light airs at north, which in the a.m. increased to a fresh gale, with which we made the best of our way westward, and by noon had run since yesterday on a south 86°15′ west course, 79 miles. Latitude by observation 39°30′ south, and longitude made from Cape Farewell 20°02′ west. Some flying fish were seen this day.

  294. 16 April 1770

    Fresh Gales and Signs of Land

    Fresh gales at north-north-west, with cloudy, hazy weather. In the p.m. saw an egg bird, and yesterday a gannet was observed—both species that are thought never to stray far from land. Kept the lead going all night, but found no soundings with 100 and 130 fathoms of line. At noon we were in latitude 39°40′ south, having made 22°02′ of longitude from Cape Farewell; course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon south 82° west, 108 miles.

  295. 17 April 1770

    Strong Gales and Celestial Observations

    At 2 p.m. the wind came to West-South-West, when we tacked and stood to the North-West. Before five o’clock we were obliged to close reef our topsails, the gale being strong with very heavy squalls; about this time a small land bird was seen to perch upon the rigging. We sounded but had no ground with 120 fathoms of line.

    At eight o’clock we wore and stood to the southward until midnight, then wore again and stood to the north-west until four a.m., when we once more stood to the southward, having a fresh gale at West-South-West, with squalls and dark, hazy, unsettled weather until nine, when it fell little wind and the weather soon cleared.

    A little after eleven we took several observations of the sun and moon, the mean result giving 207°56′ west longitude from Greenwich. From these observations the ship’s longitude at noon was 207°58′, and by the log 208°20′—a difference of only 22′, which may lie as well in the one as in the other.

    Latitude at noon: 39°36′ South

    Longitude made from Cape Farewell: 22°22′ West

  296. 18 April 1770

    Heavy Gale and Signs of Approaching Land

    Winds southerly, a hard gale with heavy squalls, attended by showers of rain and a great sea from the same quarter. At 3 p.m. close-reefed the topsails, handed the main and mizen topsails, and got down the topgallant yards. At 6 the gale increased to such a height as to oblige us to take in the foretopsail and mainsail, running under the foresail and mizen all night. Sounded every two hours but found no ground with 120 fathoms.

    At 6 a.m. set the mainsail, soon after the foretopsail, and before noon the maintopsail—both close-reefed. At noon, latitude by observation 38°45′ south; longitude from Cape Farewell 23°43′ west; course and distance since yesterday noon north 51° west, 82 miles.

    Last night we saw a Port Egmont hen, and this morning two more, a pintado bird, several albatrosses, and black shearwaters—all certain signs of the nearness of land. Indeed, we cannot be far from it. By our longitude we are a degree to the westward of the east side of Van Diemen’s Land, according to Tasman, the first discoverer, whose reckoning could not err much in so short a run as from this land to New Zealand; and by our latitude, we could not be above 50 or 55 leagues to the northward of the place where he took his departure from.

  297. 19 April 1770

    First Sight of the East Coast of Australia

    This marks the first recorded European sighting of Australia’s east coast. Point Hicks, located in present-day Victoria, stands as the landmark where Cook began his exploration of eastern Australia.

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “In the P.M. had fresh Gales at South-South-West and Cloudy Squally weather, with a large Southerly Sea; at 6 took in the Topsails, and at 1 A.M. brought too and Sounded, but had no ground with 130 fathoms of line. At 5, set the Topsails close reef’d, and 6, saw land* (* The south-east coast of Australia. See chart.) extending from North-East to West, distance 5 or 6 Leagues, having 80 fathoms, fine sandy bottom. We continued standing to the Westward with the Wind at South-South-West until 8, at which time we got Topgallant Yards a Cross, made all sail, and bore away along shore North-East for the Eastermost land we had in sight, being at this time in the Latitude of 37 degrees 58 minutes South, and Longitude of 210 degrees 39 minutes West.

    The Southermost point of land we had in sight, which bore from us West 1/4 South, I judged to lay in the Latitude of 38 degrees 0 minutes South and in the Longitude of 211 degrees 7 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich. I have named it Point Hicks, because Lieutenant Hicks was the first who discover’d this Land. To the Southward of this point we could see no land, and yet it was clear in that Quarter, and by our Longitude compared with that of Tasman’s, the body of Van Diemen’s land ought to have bore due South from us, and from the soon falling of the Sea after the wind abated I had reason to think it did; but as we did not see it, and finding the Coast to trend North-East and South-West, or rather more to the Westward, makes me Doubtfull whether they are one land or no.* (* Had not the gale on the day before forced Cook to run to the northward, he would have made the north end of the Furneaux Group, and probably have discovered Bass Strait, which would have cleared up the doubt, which he evidently felt, as to whether Tasmania was an island or not. The fact was not positively known until Dr. Bass sailed through the Strait in a whale-boat in 1797. Point Hicks was merely a rise in the coast-line, where it dipped below the horizon to the westward, and the name of Point Hicks Hill is now borne by an elevation that seems to agree with the position.)

    However, every one who compares this Journal with that of Tasman’s will be as good a judge as I am; but it is necessary to observe that I do not take the Situation of Vandiemen’s from the Printed Charts, but from the extract of Tasman’s Journal, published by Dirk Rembrantse. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 37 degrees 50 minutes and Longitude of 210 degrees 29 minutes West. The extreams of the Land extending from North-West to East-North-East, a remarkable point, bore North 20 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues. This point rises to a round hillock very much like the Ramhead going into Plymouth sound, on which account I called it by the same name; Latitude 37 degrees 39 minutes, Longitude 210 degrees 22 minutes West. The Variation by an Azimuth taken this morning was 8 degrees 7 minutes East. What we have as yet seen of this land appears rather low, and not very hilly, the face of the Country green and Woody, but the Sea shore is all a white Sand.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), April 19, 1770:

    “Atone in the morning we brought to and sounded, but had no ground with 130 fathom; at six we saw land extending from N. E. to W. at the distance of five or six leagues, having eighty fathom water with a fine sandy bottom.”

    Banks’s Journal, April 19, 1770:

    “With the first day light this morn the Land was seen, at 10 it was pretty plainly to be observd; it made in sloping hills, coverd in Part with trees or bushes, but interspersd with large tracts of sand. At Noon the land much the same. We were now sailing along shore 5 or 6 Leagues from it, with a brisk breeze of wind and cloudy unsettled weather, when we were calld upon deck to see three water spouts, which at the same time made their appearance in different places but all between us and the land. Two which were very distant soon disapeard but the third which was about a League from us lasted full a quarter of an hour. It was a column which appeard to be of about the thickness of a mast or a midling tree, and reachd down from a smoak colourd cloud about two thirds of the way to the surface of the sea; under it the sea appeard to be much troubled for a considerable space and from the whole of that space arose a dark colourd thick mist which reachd to the bottom of the pipe.

    When it was at its greatest distance from the water the pipe itself was perfectly transparent and much resembled a tube of glass or a Column of water, if such a thing could be supposd to be suspended in the air; it very frequently contracted and dilated, lenghned and shortned itself and that by very quick motions; it very seldom remaind in a perpendicular direction but Generaly inclind either one way or the other in a curve as a light body acted upon by wind is observd to do.

    During the whole time that it lasted smaler ones seemd to attempt to form in its neighbourhood; at last one did about as thick as a rope close by it and became longer than the old one which at that time was in its shortest state; upon this they Joind together in an instant and gradualy contracting into the Cloud disapeard.”

    ______

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  298. 20 April 1770

    Cape Howe Named — Promising Country Sighted

    In the P.M. and most part of the night had a fresh Gale Westerly, with Squalls, attended with Showers of rain. In the A.M. had the Wind at South-West, with Severe weather. At 1 p.m. saw 3 Water Spouts at once; 2 were between us and the Shore, and one at some distance upon our Larboard Quarter. At 6, shortned sail, and brought too for the Night, having 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom. The Northermost land in sight bore North by East 1/2 East, and a small Island* (* Gabo Island.) lying close to a point on the Main bore West, distant 2 Leagues. This point I have named Cape Howe* (* Cape Howe, called after Admiral Earl Howe, is the south-east point of Australia. The position is almost exact.); it may be known by the Trending of the Coast, which is North on the one Side and South-West on the other. Latitude 37 degrees 28 minutes South; Longitude 210 degrees 3 minutes West. It may likewise be known by some round hills upon the main just within it.

    Having brought too with her head off Shore, we at 10 wore, and lay her head in until 4 a.m., at which time we made sail along shore to the Northward. At 6, the Northermost land in sight bore North, being at this time about 4 Leagues from the Land. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 36 degrees 51 minutes South and Longitude of 209 degrees 53 minutes West, and 3 Leagues from the land. Course sail’d along shore since Yesterday at Noon was first North 52 degrees East, 30 miles, then North by East and North by West, 41 Miles.

    The weather being clear gave us an opportunity to View the Country, which had a very agreeable and promising aspect, diversified with hills, ridges, plains, and Valleys, with some few small lawns; but for the most part the whole was covered with wood, the hills and ridges rise with a gentle slope; they are not high, neither are there many of them.

  299. 21 April 1770

    Mount and Cape Dromedary — Signs of Inhabitants

    Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze, and Clear weather, with which we coasted along shore to the Northward. In the P.M. we saw the smoke of fire in several places; a Certain sign that the Country is inhabited. At 6, being about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land, we shortned Sail, and Sounded and found 44 fathoms, a sandy bottom. Stood on under an easey sail until 12 o’Clock, at which time we brought too until 4 A.M., when we made sail, having then 90 fathoms, 5 Leagues from the land.

    At 6, we were abreast of a pretty high Mountain laying near the Shore, which, on account of its figure, I named Mount Dromedary (Latitude 36 degrees 18 minutes South, Longitude 209 degrees 55 minutes West). The shore under the foot of the Mountain forms a point, which I have named Cape Dromedary, over which is a peaked hillock. At this time found the Variation to be 10 degrees 42 minutes East.

    Between 10 and 11 o’Clock Mr. Green and I took several Observations of the Sun and Moon, the mean result of which gave 209 degrees 17 minutes West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich. By observation made yesterday we were in the Longitude 210 degrees 9 minutes. West 20 minutes gives 209 degrees 49 minutes the Longitude of the Ship to-day at noon per yesterday’s observation, the Mean of which and to-day’s give 209 degrees 33 minutes West, by which I fix the Longitude of this Coast.

    Our Latitude at Noon was 35 degrees 49 minutes South; Cape Dromedary bore South 30 degrees West, distant 12 Leagues. An Open Bay (Bateman Bay) wherein lay 3 or 4 Small Islands, bore North-West by West, distant 5 or 6 Leagues. This Bay seem’d to be but very little Shelter’d from the Sea Winds, and yet it is the only likely Anchoring place I have yet seen upon the Coast.

  300. 22 April 1770

    Point Upright — The Pigeon House — First Sight of the Natives

    In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South by West with which we steer’d along shore North by East and North-North-East at the distance of about 3 Leagues. Saw the smoke of fire in several places near the Sea beach. At 5, we were abreast of a point of land which, on account of its perpendicular Clifts, I call’d Point Upright; Latitude 35 degrees 35 minutes South; it bore from us due West, distant 2 Leagues, and in this Situation had 31 fathoms, Sandy bottom.

    At 6, falling little wind, we hauld off East-North-East; at this time the Northermost land in sight bore North by East 1/2 East, and at midnight, being in 70 fathoms, we brought too until 4 A.M., at which time we made sail in for the land, and at daylight found ourselves nearly in the same Place we were at 5 o’Clock in the evening, by which it was apparent that we had been drove about 3 Leagues to the Southward by a Tide or Current in the night.

    After this we steer’d along shore North-North-East, having a Gentle breeze at South-West, and were so near the Shore as to distinguish several people upon the Sea beach. They appeared to be of a very dark or black Colour; but whether this was the real Colour of their skins or the Cloathes they might have on I know not.

    At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 35 degrees 27 minutes and Longitude 209 degrees 23 minutes; Cape Dromedary bore South 28 degrees West, distance 15 Leagues. A remarkable peak’d hill laying inland, the Top of which looked like a Pigeon house, and occasioned my giving it that name, bore North 32 degrees 33 minutes West, and a small low Island, laying close under the Shore, bore North-West, distance 2 or 3 Leagues; Variation of the Compass 9 degrees 50 minutes East.

    When we first discover’d this Island in the morning I was in hopes, from its appearance, that we should have found Shelter for the Ship behind it; but when we came to approach it near I did not think that there was even security for a Boat to land. But this, I believe, I should have attempted had not the wind come on Shore, after which I did not think it safe to send a Boat from the Ship, as we had a large hollow Sea from the South-East rowling in upon the land, which beat every where very high upon the Shore; and this we have had ever since we came upon the Coast.

    The land near the Sea coast still continues of a moderate height, forming alternately rocky points and Sandy beaches; but inland, between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon house, are several pretty high Mountains, 2 only of which we saw but what were covered with Trees, and these lay inland behind the Pigeon House, and are remarkably flat a Top, with Steep rocky clifts all round them. As far as we could see the Trees in this Country hath all the appearance of being stout and lofty.

    For these 2 days past the observed Latitude hath been 12 or 14 Miles to the Southward of the Ship’s account given by the Log, which can be owing to nothing but a Current set to the Southward.

  301. 23 April 1770

    Calm Weather off the Coast — Between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon House

    In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at East, which in the night veer’d to North-East and North. At 1/2 past 4 P.M., being about 5 Miles from the Land, we Tack’d and stood off South-East and East until 4 A.M., at which time we Tack’d and stood in, being then about 9 or 10 Leagues from the land. At 8, it fell little wind, and soon after Calm.

    At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 35 degrees 38 minutes South and about 6 Leagues from the land, Mount Dromedary bearing South 37 degrees West, distant 17 Leagues, and the Pigeon House North 40 degrees West; in this situation had 74 fathoms.

  302. 24 April 1770

    Cape St. George Named — Continued Northward Along the Coast

    In the P.M. had Variable light Airs and Calms until 6 o’Clock, at which time a breeze sprung up at North by West; at this time we had 70 fathoms Water, being about 4 or 5 Leagues from the land, the Pidgeon House bearing North 40 degrees West, Mount Dromedary South 30 degrees West, and the Northermost land in sight North 19 degrees East.

    Stood to the North-East until Noon, having a Gentle breeze at North-West, at which time we Tack’d and stood to the Westward, being then, by observation, in the Latitude of 35 degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude 208 degrees 51 minutes West.

    A point of land, which I named Cape St. George (we having discovered it on that Saint’s day), bore West, distant 19 Miles, and the Pidgeon House South 7 degrees West, the Latitude and Longitude of which I found to be 35 degrees 19 minutes South and 209 degrees 42 minutes West.

    In the morning we found the Variation to be, by the Amplitude, 7 degrees 50 minutes East, and by several Azimuths 7 degrees 54 minutes East.

  303. 25 April 1770

    Along the Coast — Cape St. George to Red Point

    In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-West until 3 o’Clock, at which time it came to West, and we Tack’d and stood to the Northward. At 5 o’Clock, being about 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, the Pidgeon House bearing West-South-West, distant 9 Leagues, sounded and had 86 fathoms.

    At 8, being very squally, with lightning, we close reef’d the Topsails and brought too, being then in 120 fathoms. At 3 A.M. made sail again to the Northward, having the advantage of a fresh Gale at South-West.

    At Noon we were about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in the Latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes South and Longitude 208 degrees 36 minutes West. Course and distance sail’d since Yesterday noon is North by East, 49 Miles.

    In the Course of this day’s run we saw the Smoke of fire in several places near the Sea beach. About 2 Leagues to the Northward of Cape St. George the Shore seems to form a bay (Jervis Bay), which appear’d to be shelter’d from the North-East winds; but as we had the wind it was not in my power to look into it, and the appearance was not favourable enough to induce me to loose time in beating up to it.

    The North point of this bay, on account of its Figure, I nam’d Long Nose. Latitude 35 degrees 4 minutes South. Eight Leagues to the Northward of this is a point which I call’d Red Point, some part of the Land about it appearing of that Colour (Latitude 34 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude 208 degrees 49 minutes West). A little way inland to the North-West of this point is a round hill, the top of which look’d like the Crown of a Hat.

  304. 26 April 1770

    Calm Night and Light Breezes — White Cliffs Sighted

    Clear, serene weather. In the P.M. had a light breeze at North-North-West until 5, at which time it fell Calm, we being then about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in 48 fathoms. Variation by Azimuth 8 degrees 48 minutes East, the extreams of the land from North-East by North to South-West by South.

    Saw several smokes along shore before dark, and two or three times a fire. In the Night we lay becalm’d, driving in before the Sea, until one o’Clock A.M., at which time we got a breeze from the land, with which we steer’d North-East, being then in 38 fathoms water.

    At Noon it fell little Wind, and veer’d to North-East by North, we being then in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude 208 degrees 27 minutes West, and about 5 Leagues from the land, which extended from South 37 degrees West to North 1/2 East. In this Latitude are some White Cliffs, which rise perpendicular from the Sea to a moderate height.

  305. 27 April 1770

    Light Winds and Slow Progress Near Red Point

    Variable light airs between the North-East and North-West, clear pleasant weather. In the P.M. stood off shore until 2, then Tack’d and stood in till 6, at which time we tack’d and stood off, being then in 54 fathoms and about 4 or 5 miles from the land, the extreams of which bore from South 28 degrees West to North 25 degrees 30 minutes East.

    At 12 we tack’d and stood in until 4 A.M., then made a trip off until daylight, after which we stood in for the land. In all this time we lost ground, owing a good deal to the variableness of the winds, for at Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 34 degrees 21 minutes South, Red Point bearing South 27 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues.

    In this situation we were about 4 or 5 miles from the land, which extended from South 19 degrees 30 minutes West to North 29 degrees East.

  306. 28 April 1770

    First Attempt to Land on the New South Wales Coast — Discovery of Botany Bay

    In the P.M. hoisted out the Pinnace and Yawl in order to attempt a landing, but the Pinnace took in water so fast that she was obliged to be hoisted in again to stop her leaks. At this time we saw several people ashore, four of whom were carrying a small boat or canoe, which we imagined they were going to put into the water in order to come off to us; but in this we were mistaken.

    Being now not above two miles from the shore, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and myself put off in the Yawl, and pull’d in for the land to a place where we saw four or five of the natives, who took to the woods as we approached the shore; which disappointed us in the expectation we had of getting a near view of them, if not to speak to them.

    But our disappointment was heightened when we found that we nowhere could effect a landing by reason of the great surf, which beat everywhere upon the shore. We saw haul’d up upon the beach three or four small canoes, which to us appeared not much unlike the small ones of New Zealand. In the wood were several trees of the palm kind, and no underwood; and this was all we were able to observe from the boat, after which we return’d to the ship about five in the evening.

    (The place where Cook attempted to land is near Bulli, north of modern-day Wollongong.)

    At this time it fell calm, and we were not above a mile and a half from the shore, in 11 fathoms, and within some breakers that lay to the southward of us; but luckily a light breeze came off from the land, which carried us out of danger, and with which we stood to the northward.

    At daylight in the morning we discovered a bay, which appeared to be tolerably well shelter’d from all winds, into which I resolved to go with the ship; and with this view sent the Master in the Pinnace to sound the entrance, while we kept turning up with the ship, having the wind right out.

    At noon the entrance bore North-North-West, distance 1 mile.

    (This bay would soon be named Botany Bay, the site of Cook’s first landing on the east coast of Australia.)

  307. 29 April 1770

    First landing at Botany Bay

    Cook, Banks, and Solander went ashore near present-day Kurnell (Sydney), marking the first landing of Europeans on the east coast of Australia. Their encounter with the Gweagal people was cautious and tense but did not lead to violence. Banks’s botanical studies here produced one of the voyage’s most significant scientific legacies.

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “In the P.M. wind Southerly and clear weather, with which we stood into the bay and anchored under the South shore, about 2 miles within the entrance, in 5 fathoms, the South point bearing South-East and the North point East. As we came in, we saw on both points of the bay several of the natives and a few huts—men, women, and children—on the South Shore abreast of the ship.

    I went in the boats to this place in hopes of speaking with them, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia. As we approached the shore, they all made off except two men, who seemed resolved to oppose our landing. I ordered the boats to lay on their oars to speak to them, but neither we nor Tupia could understand one word they said.

    We then threw them some nails, beads, etc., ashore, which they took up and seemed not ill pleased with, so that I thought they beckoned us to come closer; but we were mistaken. As soon as we put the boat in, they again came to oppose us, upon which I fired a musket between the two, which had no other effect than to make them retire back, where bundles of their darts lay. One of them took up a stone and threw it at us, which caused my firing a second musket loaded with small shot. Although some of the shot struck the man, it had no other effect than making him lay hold on a target.

    Immediately after this we landed, and they threw two darts at us; this obliged me to fire a third shot, soon after which they both made off, though not in such haste but that we might have taken one. Mr. Banks, being of opinion that the darts were poisoned, made me cautious how I advanced into the woods.

    We found here a few small huts made of bark, in one of which were four or five small children, with whom we left some strings of beads, etc. A quantity of darts lay about the huts, which we took away. Three canoes lay upon the beach—the worst I think I ever saw—about 12 or 14 feet long, made of one piece of bark, drawn up at each end and kept open by sticks serving as thwarts.

    After searching for fresh water without success, except a little in a small hole dug in the sand, we embarked and went over to the north point of the bay, where we had seen several people as we came in; but when we landed, there was nobody to be seen. Here we found some fresh water trickling down and standing in pools among the rocks; but as this was troublesome to come at, I sent a party ashore in the morning to the place where we first landed to dig holes in the sand, by which means and a small stream they found fresh water sufficient to water the ship.

    The strings of beads, etc., we had left with the children last night were found laying in the huts this morning—probably the natives were afraid to take them away. After breakfast we sent some empty casks ashore and a party of men to cut wood, and I went myself in the pinnace to sound and explore the bay. In doing so I saw some of the natives, but they all fled at my approach.

    I landed in two places, one of which the people had but just left, as there were small fires and fresh mussels broiling upon them; here likewise lay vast heaps of the largest oyster shells I ever saw.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), April 27, 1770 :

    “We now tacked and stood off till twelve, then tacked and stood in again till four in the morning, when we made a trip off till daylight; and during all this time we lost ground, owing to the variableness of the winds. We continued at the distance of between four and five miles from the shore, till the afternoon, when we came within two miles, and I then hoisted out the pinnace and yawl to attempt a landing, but the pinnace proved to be so leaky that I was obliged to hoist her in again. At this time we saw several of the natives walking briskly along the shore, four of whom carried a small canoe upon their shoulders: we flattered ourselves that they were going to put her into the water, and come off to the ship, but finding ourselves disappointed, I determined to go on shore in the yawl, with as many as it would carry: I embarked therefore, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and four rowers: we pulled for that part of the shore where the Indians appeared, near which four small canoes were lying at the water’s edge.”

    Banks’s Journal, 1770 April 28:

    “The land this morn appeard Cliffy and barren without wood. An opening appearing like a harbour was seen and we stood directly in for it. A small smoak arising from a very barren place directed our glasses that way and we soon saw about 10 people, who on our approach left the fire and retird to a little emminence where they could conveniently see the ship; soon after this two Canoes carrying 2 men each landed on the beach under them, the men hauld up their boats and went to their fellows upon the hill.

    Our boat which had been sent ahead to sound now aproachd the place and they all retird higher up on the hill; we saw however that at the beach or landing place one man at least was hid among some rocks who never that we could see left that place. Our boat proceeded along shore and the Indians followd her at a distance. When she came back the officer who was in her told me that in a cove a little within the harbour they came down to the beach and invited our people to land by many signs and word[s] which he did not at all understand; all however were armd with long pikes and a wooden weapon made something like a short scymetar.

    During this time a few of the Indians who had not followd the boat remaind on the rocks opposite the ship, threatning and menacing with their pikes and swords–two in particular who were painted with white, their faces seemingly only dusted over with it, their bodies painted with broad strokes drawn over their breasts and backs resembling much a soldiers cross belts, and their legs and thighs also with such like broad strokes drawn round them which imitated broad garters or bracelets. Each of these held in his hand a wooden weapon about 2½ feet long, in shape much resembling a scymeter; the blades of these lookd whitish and some though[t] shining insomuch that they were almost of opinion that they were made of some kind of metal, but myself thought they were no more than wood smeard over with the same white pigment with which they paint their bodies. These two seemd to talk earnestly together, at times brandishing their crooked weapons at us as in token of defiance.

    By noon we were within the mouth of the inlet which appeard to be very good. Under the South head of it were four small canoes; in each of these was one man who held in his hand a long pole with which he struck fish, venturing with his little imbarkation almost into the surf. These people seemd to be totaly engag’d in what they were about: the ship passd within a quarter of a mile of them and yet they scarce lifted their eyes from their employment; I was almost inclind to think that attentive to their business and deafned by the noise of the surf they neither saw nor heard her go past them.

    At 1 we came to an anchor abreast of a small village consisting of about 6 or 8 houses. Soon after this an old woman followd by three children came out of the wood; she carried several peice[s] of stick and the children also had their little burthens; when she came to the houses 3 more younger children came out of one of them to meet her. She often lookd at the ship but expressd neither surprize nor concern. Soon after this she lighted a fire and the four Canoes came in from fishing; the people landed, hauld up their boats and began to dress their dinner to all appearance totaly unmovd at us, tho we were within a little more than ½ a mile of them. Of all these people we had seen so distinctly through our glasses we had not been able to observe the least signs of Cloathing: myself to the best of my judgement plainly discernd that the woman did not copy our mother Eve even in the fig leaf. 

    After dinner the boats were mann’d and we set out from the ship intending to land at the place where we saw these people, hoping that as they regarded the ships coming in to the bay so little they would as little regard our landing.

    We were in this however mistaken, for as soon as we aproachd the rocks two of the men came down upon them, each armd with a lance of about 10 feet long and a short stick which he seemd to handle as if it was a machine to throw the lance. They calld to us very loud in a harsh sounding Language of which neither us or Tupia understood a word, shaking their lances and menacing, in all appearance resolvd to dispute our landing to the utmost tho they were but two and we 30 or 40 at least.

    In this manner we parleyd with them for about a quarter of an hour, they waving to us to be gone, we again signing that we wanted water and that we meant them no harm. They remaind resolute so a musquet was fird over them, the Effect of which was that the Youngest of the two dropd a bundle of lances on the rock at the instant in which he heard the report; he however snatchd them up again and both renewd their threats and opposition. A Musquet loaded with small shot was now fird at the Eldest of the two who was about 40 yards from the boat; it struck him on the legs but he minded it very little so another was immediately fird at him; on this he ran up to the house about 100 yards distant and soon returnd with a sheild.

    In the mean time we had landed on the rock. He immediately threw a lance at us and the young man another which fell among the thickest of us but hurt nobody; 2 more musquets with small shot were then fird at them on which the Eldest threw one more lance and then ran away as did the other.

    We went up to the houses, in one of which we found the children hid behind the sheild and a peice of bark in one of the houses. We were conscious from the distance the people had been from us when we fird that the shot could have done them no material harm; we therefore resolvd to leave the children on the spot without even opening their shelter. We therefore threw into the house to them some beads, ribbands, cloths etc. as presents and went away.

    We however thought it no improper measure to take away with us all the lances which we could find about the houses, amounting in number to forty or fifty. They were of various lenghs, from 15 to 6 feet in lengh; both those which were thrown at us and all we found except one had 4 prongs headed with very sharp fish bones, which were besmeard with a greenish colourd gum that at first gave me some suspicions of Poison. The people were blacker than any we have seen in the Voyage tho by no means negroes; their beards were thick and bushy and they seemd to have a redundancy of hair upon those parts of the body where it commonly grows; the hair of their heads was bushy and thick but by no means wooley like that of a Negro; they were of a common size, lean and seemd active and nimble; their voices were coarse and strong.

    Upon examining the lances we had taken from them we found that the very most of them had been usd in striking fish, at least we concluded so from sea weed which was found stuck in among the four prongs.–Having taken the resolution before mentiond we returnd to the ship in order to get rid of our load of lances, and having done that went to that place at the mouth of the harbour where we had seen the people in the morn; here however we found nobody.–

    At night many moving lights were seen in different parts of the bay such as we had been usd to see at the Islands; from hence we supposd that the people here strike fish in the same manner.

    ______

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  308. 30 April 1770

    Natives Observe from Afar — Abundant Fish Caught in the Bay

    As soon as the wooders and waterers were come on board to dinner, 10 or 12 of the natives came to the watering place and took away their canoes that lay there, but did not offer to touch any one of our casks that had been left ashore.

    In the afternoon 16 or 18 of them came boldly up to within 100 yards of our people at the watering place, and there made a stand. Mr. Hicks, who was the officer ashore, did all in his power to entice them to him by offering them presents; but it was to no purpose—all they seemed to want was for us to be gone. After staying a short time, they went away.

    They were all armed with darts and wooden swords; the darts have each four prongs, pointed with fish bones. Those we have seen appear to be intended more for striking fish than as offensive weapons, and neither are they poisoned, as we at first thought.

    After I had returned from sounding the bay, I went over to a cove on the north side of the bay, where, in three or four hauls with the seine, we caught about 300 pounds weight of fish, which I caused to be equally divided among the ship’s company.

    In the A.M. I went in the pinnace to sound and explore the north side of the bay, where I neither met with inhabitants nor anything remarkable.

    Mr. Green took the Sun’s meridian altitude a little within the south entrance of the bay, which gave the latitude 34° 00′ South.

  309. 1 May 1770

    Death of Forby Sutherland — Exploration of the Country — First Signs of Kangaroos

    Gentle breezes, northerly. In the P.M. 10 of the natives again visited the watering place. I, being on board at this time, went immediately ashore; but before I got there they were going away. I followed them alone and unarmed some distance along shore, but they would not stop until they got farther off than I chose to trust myself. These were armed in the same manner as those that came yesterday.

    In the evening I sent some hands to haul the seine, but they caught only a few fish. A little after sunrise I found the variation to be 11° 3′ East.

    Last night Forby Sutherland, seaman, departed this life, and in the A.M. his body was buried ashore at the watering place, which occasioned my calling the south point of this bay after his name (Point Sutherland).

    This morning a party of us went ashore to some huts not far from the watering place, where some of the natives are daily seen; here we left several articles—cloth, looking-glasses, combs, beads, nails, etc. After this we made an excursion into the country, which we found diversified with woods, lawns, and marshes.

    The woods are free from underwood of every kind, and the trees are at such a distance from one another that the whole country, or at least great part of it, might be cultivated without being obliged to cut down a single tree.

    We found the soil, everywhere except in the marshes, to be a light white sand, and it produces a quantity of good grass, which grows in little tufts about as big as one can hold in one’s hand and pretty close to one another; in this manner the surface of the ground is coated.

    In the woods, between the trees, Dr. Solander had a bare sight of a small animal something like a rabbit, and we found the dung of an animal (the kangaroo) which must feed upon grass and which we judged could not be less than a deer. We also saw the track of a dog, or some such like animal.

    We met with some huts and places where the natives had been, and at our first setting out one of them was seen; the others, I suppose, had fled upon our approach. I saw some trees that had been cut down by the natives with a blunt instrument, and several trees that were barked, the bark having been cut by the same means. In many of the trees, especially the palms, were steps cut about 3 or 4 feet asunder for the convenience of climbing them.

    We found two sorts of gum, one of which is like gum-dragon, and is, I suppose, the same that Tasman took for gum-lac; it is extracted from the largest tree in the woods.

  310. 2 May 1770

    Cautious Encounters with the Natives — Rain Prevents Further Exploration

    Between 3 and 4 in the P.M. we returned out of the country, and after dinner went ashore to the watering place, where we had not been long before 17 or 18 of the natives appeared in sight.

    In the morning I had sent Mr. Gore, with a boat, up to the head of the bay to drudge for oysters. In his return to the ship he and another person came by land and met with these people, who followed him at the distance of 10 or 20 yards. Whenever Mr. Gore made a stand and faced them, they stood also; and, notwithstanding they were all armed, they never offered to attack him.

    After he had parted from them, they were met by Dr. Monkhouse and one or two more, who, upon making a sham retreat, had three darts thrown after them. After this, the natives began to retire.

    Dr. Solander, Tupia, and I made all the haste we could after them, but could not, either by words or actions, prevail upon them to come near us. Mr. Gore saw some farther up the bay, who by signs invited him ashore, which he prudently declined.

    In the A.M. we had the wind at South-East with rain, which prevented me from making an excursion up the head of the bay as I had intended.

  311. 3 May 1770

    Excursion Southward and Inland — Fertile Soil and Meadows Observed

    Winds at South-East, a gentle breeze and fair weather.

    In the P.M. I made a little excursion along the sea coast to the southward, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. At our first entering the woods we saw three of the natives, who made off as soon as they saw us; more of them were seen by others of our people, who likewise made off as soon as they found they were discovered.

    In the A.M. I went in the pinnace to the head of the bay, accompanied by Drs. Solander and Monkhouse, in order to examine the country and to try to form some connection with the natives. On our way thither we met with 10 or 12 of them fishing, each in a small canoe, who retired into shoal water upon our approach. Others again we saw at the first place we landed at, who took to their canoes and fled before we came near them.

    After this, we took water and went almost to the head of the inlet, where we landed and travelled some distance inland. We found the face of the country much the same as I have before described, but the land much richer, for instead of sand we found in many places a deep black soil, which we thought capable of producing any kind of grain. At present it produceth, besides timber, as fine meadow as ever was seen; however, we found it not all like this, for some few places were very rocky, but this, I believe, to be uncommon. The stone is sandy and very proper for building, etc.

    After we had sufficiently examined this part, we returned to the boat; and seeing some smoke and canoes at another part, we went thither in hopes of meeting with the people, but they made off as we approached. There were six canoes and six small fires near the shore, with mussels roasting upon them, and a few oysters lying near. From this we conjectured that there had been just six people, each out in his canoe picking up shellfish, and come ashore to eat them, where each had made his own fire to dress them by.

    We tasted of their cheer, and left them in return strings of beads, etc. The day being now far spent, we set out on our return to the ship.

  312. 4 May 1770

    Further Attempts to Meet the Natives — A Hostile Encounter in the Woods

    Winds northerly, serene weather. Upon my return to the ship in the evening I found that none of the natives had appeared near the watering place, but about 20 of them had been fishing in their canoes at no great distance from us.

    In the A.M., as the wind would not permit us to sail, I sent out some parties into the country to try to form some connection with the natives.

    One of the midshipmen met with a very old man and woman and two small children. They were close to the waterside, where several more were in their canoes gathering shellfish. He, being alone, was afraid to make any stay with the two old people lest he should be discovered by those in the canoes. He gave them a bird he had shot, which they would not touch; neither did they speak one word, but seemed to be much frightened. They were quite naked, even the woman having nothing to cover her nudities.

    Dr. Monkhouse and another man, being in the woods not far from the watering place, discovered six more of the natives, who at first seemed to wait his coming; but as he was going up to them, he had a dart thrown at him out of a tree, which narrowly escaped him. As soon as the fellow had thrown the dart, he descended the tree and made off, and with him all the rest.

    These were all that were met with in the course of this day.

  313. 5 May 1770

    Excursion Across the Bay — Abundance of Fish, but Barren Country

    In the P.M. I went with a party of men over to the north shore, and while some hands were hauling the seine, a party of us made an excursion of three or four miles into the country, or rather along the sea coast.

    We met with nothing remarkable; great part of the country, for some distance inland from the sea coast, is mostly a barren heath, diversified with marshes and morasses.

    Upon our return to the boat we found they had caught a great number of small fish, which the sailors call leather jackets, on account of their very thick skin; they are known in the West Indies.

    I had sent the yawl in the morning to fish for stingrays, who returned in the evening with upwards of four hundredweight; one single one weighed 240 pounds exclusive of the entrails.

    In the A.M., as the wind continued northerly, I sent the yawl again a-fishing, and I went with a party of men into the country, but met with nothing extraordinary.

  314. 6 May 1770

    Botany Bay Named — Observations on the Land, Wildlife, and People

    In the evening, the yawl returned from fishing, having caught two stingrays weighing nearly 600 pounds.

    The great quantity of plants Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found in this place occasioned my giving it the name of Botany Bay.

    (It was at first called Stingray Bay; Cook likely renamed it after Banks had examined his collections.)

    It is situated in latitude 34° 0′ S, longitude 208° 37′ W. The bay is capacious, safe, and commodious. It may be known by the land on the seacoast, which is of a pretty even and moderate height—rather higher than inland—with steep rocky cliffs next the sea, and looks like a long island lying close under the shore.

    The entrance of the bay lies about the middle of this land; in coming from the southward, it is discovered before you are abreast of it, which you cannot do coming from the northward. The entrance is little more than a quarter of a mile broad, and lies W.N.W. To sail into it, keep the south shore on board until within a small bare island close under the north shore. Within that island, the deepest water is on that side—7, 6, and 5 fathoms a good way up. There is shoal water a good way off from the south shore, from the inner south point quite to the head of the harbour; but over towards the north and north-west shore is a channel of 12 or 14 feet at low water, three or four leagues up, to a place where there is 3 or 4 fathoms, though I found very little fresh water there.

    We anchored near the south shore, about a mile within the entrance, for the convenience of sailing with a southerly wind and getting fresh water; but I afterwards found a very fine stream of fresh water on the north shore, in the first sandy cove within the island—before which the ship might lie almost landlocked—and wood for fuel may be got everywhere.

    Although wood is here in great plenty, there is very little variety. The largest trees are as large or larger than our oaks in England, and grow a good deal like them, yielding a reddish gum; the wood itself is heavy, hard, and black like lignum vitae. Another sort grows tall and straight, something like pines; its wood is hard and ponderous, somewhat of the nature of American live oak. These two are all the timber trees I met with. There are a few sorts of shrubs, several palm trees, and mangroves about the head of the harbour.

    The country is woody, low, and flat as far as we could see, and I believe the soil is in general sandy. In the woods are a variety of beautiful birds—cockatoos, loryquets, parrots, etc.—and crows exactly like those of England. Waterfowl are no less plenty about the head of the harbour, where there are large flats of sand and mud on which they seek their food. Most of these birds were unknown to us, one sort especially, black and white, as large as a goose but most like a pelican. (Probably the black and white semipalmated goose, now extinct in these parts.)

    On the sand and mudbanks are oysters, mussels, cockles, etc., which I believe are the chief support of the inhabitants, who go into shoal water in their little canoes, picking them out of the sand and mud with their hands, sometimes roasting and eating them in the canoe, having often a fire for that purpose.

    The natives do not appear to be numerous, nor do they live in large bodies, but dispersed in small parties along the waterside. Those I saw were about as tall as Europeans, of a very dark brown colour but not black, and their hair black and lank, not woolly or frizzled. No sort of clothing or ornaments were seen upon any of them, nor in or about any of their huts; from which I conclude they never wear any. Some had their faces and bodies painted with white pigment.

    Although I have said that shellfish is their chief support, they catch other sorts of fish, some of which we found roasting on their fires the first time we landed. Some they strike with gigs (a kind of trident), and others they catch with hook and line, for these were found in their huts. Stingrays, I believe, they do not eat, for I never saw any remains of one near their huts or fireplaces.

    However, we could learn but little of their customs, as we were never able to form any connections with them; they had not even touched the things we left in their huts on purpose for them to take away.

    During our stay in this harbour, I caused the English colours to be displayed ashore every day, and an inscription cut upon one of the trees near the watering place, setting forth the ship’s name, date, etc.

    [Off Port Jackson, New South Wales.]

    Having seen everything this place afforded, we weighed at daylight in the morning with a light breeze at north-west, and put to sea. The wind soon after coming to the southward, we steered alongshore north-north-east, and at noon were by observation in latitude 33° 50′ S, about 2 or 3 miles from the land, and abreast of a bay wherein there appeared to be safe anchorage, which I called Port Jackson.

    It lies three leagues to the northward of Botany Bay.

    (Cook did not examine it, though Sydney now stands there.)

    It is high water in this bay, at the full and change of the moon, about 8 o’clock, and rises and falls 4 to 5 feet perpendicularly.

  315. 7 May 1770

    Along the Coast — Broken Bay and Cape Three Points Named

    Little wind, southerly, and serene pleasant weather.

    In the P.M., found the variation by several azimuths to be 8° East. At sunset, the northermost land in sight bore N. 26° E., and some broken land that appeared to form a bay bore N. 40° W., distant 4 leagues. This bay I named Broken Bay (the entrance of the Hawkesbury River, the largest on the east coast of Australia), latitude 33° 36′ S.

    We steered along shore N.N.E. all night, at the distance of about 3 leagues from the land, having from 32 to 36 fathoms, hard sandy bottom.

    A little after sunrise, I took several azimuths with four needles belonging to the azimuth compass, the mean result of which gave the variation 7° 56′ E.

    At noon, we were by observation in latitude 33° 22′ S, and about 3 leagues from the land, the northermost part in sight bearing N. 19° E.

    Some pretty high land, which projected out in three bluff points and occasioned my calling it Cape Three Points (latitude 33° 33′ S), bore S.W., distant 5 leagues. Longitude made from Botany Bay 0° 19′ East.

  316. 8 May 1770

    Variable Light Airs and Clear Weather

    Variable light airs and clear weather.

    In the P.M. saw some smokes upon the shore, and in the evening found the variation to be 8° 25′ East; at this time we were about 2 or 3 miles from the land, and had 28 fathoms water.

    Our situation at noon was nearly the same as yesterday, having advanced not one step to the northward.

  317. 9 May 1770

    Soundings Off Cape Three Points

    Winds northerly, most part a fresh breeze, with which we stood off shore until 12 at night.

    At the distance of 5 leagues from the land had 70 fathoms; at 6 leagues, 80 fathoms, which is the extent of the soundings, for at the distance of 10 leagues off we had no ground with 150 fathoms.

    Stood in shore until 8 o’clock A.M., and hardly fetched Cape Three Points; having a little wind at N.W. by N., we tack’d, and stood off until noon, at which time we tack’d with the wind at N.N.E., being then in the latitude of 33° 37′ S, Cape Three Points bearing N.W. by W., distant 4 leagues.

  318. 10 May 1770

    Along Shore Northward past Cape Three Points

    In the P.M., had the wind at N.E. by N., with which we stood in shore until near 4 o’clock, when we tack’d in 23 fathoms water, being about a mile from the land, and as much to the southward of Cape Three Points.

    In the night the wind veer’d to N.W. and W., and in the morning to S.W.. Having the advantage of a light moon, we made the best of our way along shore to the northward.

    At noon, we were by observation in latitude 32° 53′ S, longitude 208° 0′ W, and about 2 leagues from the land, which extended from N. 41° E. to S. 41° W.

    A small round rock or island (Nobby Head, at the entrance of Newcastle Harbour) laying close under the land, bore S. 82° W., distant 3 or 4 leagues.

    At sunrise in the morning found the variation to be 8° East.

    In latitude 33° 2′ S, a little way inland, is a remarkable hill shaped like the crown of a hat, which we passed about 9 o’clock in the forenoon.

  319. 11 May 1770

    Past Port Stephens and Cape Hawke

    Winds southerly in the day, and in the night westerly; a gentle breeze and clear weather.

    At 4 p.m., passed, at the distance of one mile, a low rocky point, which I named Point Stephens (latitude 32° 45′ S). On the north side of this point is an inlet, which I called Port Stephens (latitude 32° 40′ S; longitude 207° 51′ W), that appeared to me from the masthead to be sheltered from all winds. At the entrance lay three small islands, two of which are of a tolerable height; and on the main, near the shore, are some high round hills that make, at a distance, like islands.

    In passing this bay, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the shore, our soundings were from 33 to 27 fathoms, from which I conjectured there must be a sufficient depth of water for shipping in the bay.

    We saw several smokes a little way in the country upon the flat land; by this I supposed that there were lagoons which afforded subsistence for the natives, such as shell-fish, etc., for we as yet know nothing else they have to live upon.

    At half past 5, the northermost land in sight bore N. 36° E., and Point Stephens S.W., distant 4 leagues; at which time we took in our steerings (studding sails) and ran under an easy sail all night until 4 a.m., when we made all sail.

    Our soundings in the night were from 48 to 62 fathoms, at the distance of between 3 and 4 leagues from the land.

    At 8 a.m., we were abreast of a high point of land, which made in two hillocks; this point I called Cape Hawke (latitude 32° 14′ S, longitude 207° 30′ W). It bore from us at this time W., distant 8 miles; and the same time the northermost land in sight bore N. 6° E., and appeared high and like an island.

    At noon, this land bore N. 8° E., the northermost land in sight N. 13° E., and Cape Hawke S. 37° W.

    Latitude by observation: 32° 2′ S, which was 12 miles to the southward of that given by the log, which I suppose to be owing to a current setting that way.

    Course and distance sailed since yesterday noon: first N.E. by E., 27 miles, then N. 10° E., 37 miles.

    Longitude: 207° 20′ W.

    Variation (by morning amplitude and azimuth): 9° 10′ E.

  320. 12 May 1770

    The Three Brothers

    Winds southerly, a gentle breeze in the P.M.

    As we ran along shore, we saw several smokes a little way inland from the sea, and one upon the top of a hill, which was the first we have seen upon elevated ground since we have been upon the coast.

    At sunset, we were in 23 fathoms, and about a league and a half from the land, the northermost part of which we had in sight bore N. 13° E., and three remarkable large high hills, lying contiguous to each other and not far from the shore, bore N.N.W.

    As these hills bore some resemblance to each other, we called them the Three Brothers.

    We steered N.E. by N. all night, having from 27 to 67 fathoms, from 2 to 5 or 6 leagues from the land; and at daylight, we steered north for the northermost land we had in sight.

    At noon, we were 4 leagues from the land, and by observation in latitude 31° 18′ S, which was 15 miles to the southward of that given by the log.

    Course and distance made good since yesterday noon: N. 24° E., 48 miles.

    Longitude: 206° 58′ W.

    Several smokes seen a little way inland.

  321. 13 May 1770

    Smoky Cape

    In the P.M., stood in shore with the wind at N.E. until 6, at which time we tack’d, being about 3 or 4 miles from the land, and in 24 fathoms.

    Stood off shore with a fresh breeze at N. and N.N.W. until midnight, then tack’d, being in 118 fathoms and 8 leagues from the land.

    At 3 a.m., the wind veer’d to the westward, and we tack’d and stood to the northward.

    At noon, we were by observation in latitude 30° 43′ S, longitude 206° 45′ W, and about 3 or 4 leagues from the land. The northermost part of the land bore from us N. 13° W., and a point or headland, on which were fires that caused a great quantity of smoke—which occasioned my giving it the name of Smoky Cape—bore S.W., distant 4 leagues. It is moderately high land; over the pitch of the point is a round hillock, within it two others, much higher and larger, and within them very low land (latitude 30° 51′ S, longitude 206° 5′ W).

    Besides the smoke seen upon this cape, we saw more in several places along the coast.

    The observed latitude was only 5 miles to the southward of that given by the log.

  322. 14 May 1770

    North of Smoky Cape

    In the P.M. it fell calm, and continued so about an hour, when a breeze sprung up at N.E., with which we stood in shore until 6 o’clock, when, being in 30 fathoms and 3 or 4 miles from the land, we tack’d, having the wind at N.N.W.

    At this time Smoky Cape bore S. ¾° W., distant about 5 leagues, and the northermost land in sight bore N. ¼° E.

    At 8, we made a trip in shore for an hour; after this the wind came off shore, with which we stood along shore to the northward, having from 30 to 21 fathoms, at the distance of 4 or 5 miles from the land.

    At 5 a.m., the wind veer’d to north, and blew a fresh breeze, attended with squalls and dark cloudy weather. At 8, it began to thunder and rain, which lasted about an hour, and then fell calm, which gave us an opportunity to sound, and we found 86 fathoms, being about 4 or 5 leagues from the land.

    After this, we got the wind southerly, a fresh breeze and fair weather, and we steer’d N. by W. for the northermost land in sight.

    At noon, we were about 4 leagues from the land, and by observation in the latitude of 30° 22′ S, which was 9 miles to the southward of that given by the log.

    Longitude: 206° 39′ W.

    Course and distance made good since yesterday noon: N. 16° E., 22 miles.

    Some tolerably high land near the shore bore west.

    As I have not mentioned the aspect of the country since we left Botany Bay, I shall now describe it as it hath at different times appear’d to us. As we have advanced to the northward, the land hath increased in height, in so much that in this latitude it may be called a hilly country; but between this and Botany Bay it is diversified with an agreeable variety of hills, ridges, valleys, and large plains, all clothed with wood, which, to all appearance, is the same as I have before mentioned, as we could discover no visible alteration in the soil.

    Near the shore the land is in general low and sandy, except the points, which are rocky, and over many of them are pretty high hills, which, at first rising out of the water, appear like islands.

  323. 15 May 1770

    Cape Byron

    Fresh gales at S.W., W.S.W., and S.S.W. In the P.M. had some heavy squalls, attended with rain and hail, which obliged us to close reef our topsails.

    Between 2 and 4, we had some small rocky islands (the Solitary Islands) between us and the land; the southernmost lies in the latitude of 30° 10′ S, the northernmost in 29° 58′ S, and about 2 leagues or more from the land. We sounded, and had 33 fathoms, about 12 miles without this last island.

    At 8, we brought to until 10, at which time we made sail under our topsails. Having the advantage of the moon, we steer’d along shore N. and N. by E., keeping at the distance of about 3 leagues from the land, having from 30 to 25 fathoms.

    As soon as it was daylight, we made all the sail we could, having the advantage of a fresh gale and fair weather. (During the night the entrances of the Clarence River and, in the morning, the Richmond River were passed.)

    At 9, being about a league from the land, we saw upon it people and smoke in several places.

    At noon, we were by observation in the latitude of 28° 39′ S, longitude 206° 27′ W; course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon N. 6° 45′ E., 104 miles.

    A tolerably high point of land bore N.W. by W., distant 3 miles; this point I named Cape Byron (after Captain John Byron, who had previously circumnavigated the globe in H.M.S. Dolphin, 1764–66).

    Latitude: 28° 37′ 30″ S.

    Longitude: 206° 30′ W.

    It may be known by a remarkable sharp-peaked mountain lying inland N.W. by W. from it. From this point the land trends N. 13° W. Inland it is pretty high and hilly, but near the shore it is low; to the southward of the point, the land is low and tolerably level.

  324. 16 May 1770

    Point Danger and Mount Warning

    Winds southerly, a fresh gale, with which we steer’d north along shore until sunset, at which time we discover’d breakers ahead and on our larboard bow, being at this time in 20 fathoms and about 5 miles from the land.

    Haul’d off east until 8, at which time we had run 8 miles, and had increased our depth of water to 44 fathoms. We then brought to, with her head to the eastward, and lay on this tack until 10 o’clock, when, having increased our soundings to 78 fathoms, we wore and lay with her head in shore until 5 o’clock a.m., when we made sail.

    At daylight, we were surprised to find ourselves farther to the southward than we were in the evening, and yet it had blown strong all night southerly. We now saw the breakers again within us, which we passed at the distance of about 1 league; they lie in latitude 28° 8′ S, and stretch off east 2 leagues from a point under which is a small island.

    Their situation may always be found by the peaked mountain before mentioned, which bears S.W. by W. from them, and on their account I have named it Mount Warning. It lies 7 or 8 leagues inland, in the latitude of 28° 22′ S. The land is high and hilly about it, but it is conspicuous enough to be distinguished from everything else.

    The point off which these shoals lay I have named Point Danger (the boundary between New South Wales and Queensland). To the northward of it the land, which is low, trends N.W. by N., but we soon found that it did not keep that direction long before it turn’d again to the northward.

    At noon, we were about 2 leagues from the land, and by observation in the latitude of 27° 46′ S, which was 17 miles to the southward of the log.

    Longitude: 206° 26′ W.

    Mount Warning bore S. 20° W., distant 14 leagues; the northermost land in sight bore north.

    Course and distance made good since yesterday: N. 1° 45′ W., 53 miles.

  325. 17 May 1770

    Moreton Bay and the Glass Houses

    Winds southerly, mostly a fresh breeze, with which in the P.M. we steer’d along shore N. ¾° E., at the distance of about 2 leagues off. Between 4 and 5, we discover’d breakers on our larboard bow; our depth of water at this time was 37 fathoms.

    At sunset, the northermost land in sight bore N. by W.; the breakers N.W. by W., distant 4 miles; and the northermost land set at noon, which form’d a point, I named Point Lookout, bore W., distant 5 or 6 miles (latitude 27° 6′ S. — there is some mistake in this latitude; it should be 27° 26′ S.).

    On the north side of this point, the shore forms a wide open bay, which I have named Morton’s Bay (after James, Earl of Morton, President of the Royal Society in 1764, and a Commissioner of Longitude). In the bottom of this bay the land is so low that I could but just see it from the topmast head.

    The breakers I have just mentioned lie about 3 or 4 miles from Point Lookout; at this time we had a great sea from the southward, which broke prodigious high upon them.

    We stood on N.N.E. until 8, when, being past the breakers and having deepened our water to 52 fathoms, we brought to until midnight, then made sail to the N.N.E.

    At 4 a.m., we sounded and had 135 fathoms.

    At daylight, I found that we had in the night got much farther to the northward and from the shore than expected, for we were at least 6 or 7 leagues off; we therefore hauled in N.W. by W., having the advantage of a fresh gale at S.S.W.

    The northermost land seen last night bore from us at this time S.S.W., distant 6 leagues. This land I named Cape Morton, it being the north point of the bay of the same name (latitude 26° 56′ S., longitude 206° 28′ W.).

    From Cape Morton, the land trends away west farther than we could see, for there is a small space where no land was visible; some on board were of opinion that there is a river there, because the sea looked paler than usual. Upon sounding, we found 34 fathoms, fine white sandy bottom, which alone is sufficient to change the apparent colour of sea water, without the assistance of rivers. The land need only be low here, as it is in a thousand other places upon the coast, to have made it impossible for us to have seen it at the distance we were off.

    Be this as it may, it was a point that could not be clear’d up as we had the wind; but should any one be desirous of doing it that may come after me, this place may always be found by three hills which lie to the northward of it, in the latitude of 26° 53′ S. These hills lie but a little way inland, and not far from each other; they are very remarkable on account of their singular form of elevation, which very much resembles glass houses, which occasioned my giving them that name. (The Glass Houses are now a well-known sea mark on entering Moreton Bay.)

    The northermost of the three is the highest and largest. There are likewise several other peaked hills inland to the northward, but they are not near so remarkable.

    At noon, we were by observation in the latitude of 26° 28′ S., which was 10 miles to the northward of the log — a circumstance that hath not happened since we have been upon the coast before.

    Our course and distance run since yesterday noon was N. by W., 80 miles, which brought us into the longitude of 206° 46′ W.

    At this time we were about 2 or 3 leagues from the land, and in 24 fathoms water; a low bluff point, which was the southern point of an open sandy bay (Laguna Bay), bore N. 52° W., distant 3 leagues, and the northermost point of land in sight bore N. ¼° E.

    Several smokes were seen today, some pretty far inland.

  326. 18 May 1770

    Double Island Point and Wide Bay

    In steering along shore at the distance of 2 leagues off, our soundings were from 24 to 32 fathoms, sandy bottom.

    At 6 p.m., the north point set at noon bore N. ¼° W., distant 4 leagues; at 10, it bore N.W. by W. ½° W., and as we had seen no land to the northward of it, we brought to, not knowing which way to steer, having at this time but little wind, and it continued so for the most part of the night.

    At 2 a.m. we made sail with the wind at S.W., and at daylight saw the land extending as far as N. ¾° E. The point set last night bore S.W. by W., distant 3 or 4 leagues. I have named it Double Island Point, on account of its figure (latitude 25° 58′ S., longitude 206° 48′ W.).

    The land within this point is of moderate and pretty equal height, but the point itself is of such an unequal height that it looks like two small islands lying under the land; it likewise may be known by the white cliffs on the north side of it.

    Here the land trends to the N.W., and forms a large open bay (Wide Bay), in the bottom of which the land appeared to be very low, in so much that we could but just see it from the deck. In crossing the mouth of this bay our depth of water was from 30 to 32 fathoms, white sandy bottom.

    At noon we were about 3 leagues from the land, and in the latitude of 25° 34′ S., longitude 206° 45′ W.

    Double Island Point bore S. ¾° W., and the northermost land in sight N. ¾° E.

    The land hereabouts, which is of a moderate height, appears more barren than any we have yet seen on this coast, and the soil more sandy, there being several large places where nothing else is to be seen. In other places the woods look low and shrubby, nor did we see many signs of inhabitants.

  327. 19 May 1770

    Off the Coast near Latitude 25° 4′ S

    In the P.M. had variable light airs and calms; in the night a light breeze from the land, which in the A.M. veer’d to S.W. and S.S.W.

    In the evening, found the variation to be 8° 36′ E, and in the morning 8° 20′ E. As we had but little wind, we kept to the northward all night, having from 23 to 27 fathoms, fine sandy bottom, at the distance of 2 or 3 leagues from the land.

    At noon, we were about 4 miles from it, and by observation in the latitude of 25° 4′ S; in this situation had but 13 fathoms. The northermost land in sight bore N. 21° W., distant 8 miles.

    Our course and distance sailed since yesterday at noon was N. 13° 15′ E., 31 miles.

  328. 20 May 1770

    Indian Head and Sandy Cape

    Winds southerly, gentle breezes.

    At 10 p.m. we passed, at the distance of 4 miles, having 17 fathoms, a black bluff head or point of land, on which a number of the natives were assembled, which occasioned my naming it Indian Head (latitude 25° 0′ S). North by West, 4 miles from this head, is another much like it. From this last the land trends a little more to the westward, and is low and sandy next the sea; what may be behind it I know not—if land, it must be all low, for we could see no part of it from the masthead.

    We saw people in other places besides the one I have mentioned, with some smokes in the day and fires in the night. Having but little wind all night, we kept on to the northward, having from 17 to 34 fathoms, from 4 miles to 4 leagues from the land, the northermost part of which bore from us at daylight W.S.W., and seemed to end in a point, from which we discovered a reef stretching out to the northward as far as we could see, being at this time in 18 fathoms.

    Before it was light, we had hauled our wind to the westward, and this course we continued until we had plainly discovered breakers a long way upon our lee bow, which seemed to stretch quite home to the land. We then edged away N.W. and N.N.W., along the east side of the shoal, from 2 to 1 mile off, having regular, even soundings from 13 to 7 fathoms, fine sandy bottom.

    At noon, we were, by observation, in the latitude of 24° 26′ S, which was 13 miles to the northward of that given by the log. The extreme point of the shoal we judged to bear about N.W. of us, and the point of land above mentioned bore S. ¾° W., distant 20 miles.

    This point I have named Sandy Cape, on account of two very large white patches of sand upon it. It is of a height sufficient to be seen 12 leagues in clear weather (latitude 24° 46′ S, longitude 206° 51′ W). From it the land trends away W.S.W. and S.W. as far as we could see.

    (Sandy Cape is the northern point of Great Sandy Island. A long narrow channel separates the island from the mainland and opens at its northern end into Hervey Bay, a great sheet of water forty miles across. This channel is now much used by the coasting trade, as it avoids the long detour round Breaksea Spit, a most dangerous shoal.)

  329. 21 May 1770

    Breaksea Spit and the Approach to Hervey Bay

    In the P.M. we kept along the east side of the shoal until 2, when, judging there was water enough for us over, I sent a boat ahead to sound, and upon her making the signal for more than 5 fathoms, we hauled our wind and stood over the tail of it in 6 fathoms.

    At this time we were in the latitude of 24° 22′ S, and Sandy Cape bore S. ½° E., distant 8 leagues; but the direction of the shoal is nearest N.N.W. and S.S.E.. At this time we had 6 fathoms; the boat, which was not above ¼ of a mile to the southward of us, had little more than 5 fathoms. From 6 fathoms we had the next cast 13, and then 20 immediately, as fast as the man could heave the lead; from this I supposed that the west side of the shoal is pretty steep too, whereas on the other side we had gradual soundings from 13 to 7 fathoms.

    This shoal I called Breaksea Spit, because now we had smooth water, whereas upon the whole coast to the southward of it we had always a high sea or swell from the S.E.

    At 6, the land of Sandy Cape extended from S. 17° E. to S. 27° E., distance 8 leagues; depth of water 23 fathoms, which depth we kept all night as we stood to the westward with light airs from the southward; but between 12 and 4 a.m. we had it calm, after which a gentle breeze sprung up at S., with which we still kept on upon a wind to the westward.

    At 7, we saw from the masthead the land of Sandy Cape bearing S.E. ½° E., distance 12 or 13 leagues. At 9, we discovered from the masthead land to the westward, and soon after saw smoke upon it. Our depth of water was now decreased to 17 fathoms, and by noon to 13, at which time we were by observation in the latitude of 24° 28′ S, and about 7 leagues from the land, which extended from S. by W. to W.N.W.

    Longitude made from Sandy Cape 0° 45′ W.

    For these few days past we have seen at times a sort of sea fowl we have nowhere seen before that I remember; they are of the sort called boobies. Before this day we seldom saw more than two or three at a time, and only when we were near the land. Last night a small flock of these birds passed the ship and went away to the N.W., and this morning, from half an hour before sunrise to half an hour after, flights of them were continually coming from the N.N.W. and flying to the S.S.E., and not one was seen to fly in any other direction.

    From this we supposed that there was a lagoon, river, or inlet of shallow water to the southward of us, where these birds resorted in the day to feed, and that not very far to the northward lay some island, where they retired in the night.

  330. 22 May 1770

    Off the Coast near Latitude 24° 19′ S

    In the P.M. had a gentle breeze at S.E., with which we stood in for the land S.W. until 4, when, being in the latitude of 24° 36′ S, and about 2 leagues from land, in 9 fathoms, we bore away along shore N.W. by W. At the same time we could see the land extending to the S.S.E. about 8 leagues. Near the sea the land is very low, but inland are some moderately high hills, and the whole appeared to be thickly clothed with wood.

    In running along shore we shoaled our water from 9 to 7 fathoms, and at one time had but 6 fathoms, which determined me to anchor for the night; accordingly, at 8 o’clock, we came to in 8 fathoms, fine gravelly bottom, about 5 miles from the land.

    This evening we saw a water snake, and two or three evenings ago one lay under the ship’s stern for some time; this was about 1½ yards in length, and was the first we had seen.

    At 6 a.m. weighed with a gentle breeze southerly, and steered N.W. ¼ W., edging in for the land until we got within 2 miles of it, having from 7 to 11 fathoms; we then steered N.N.W. as the land lay.

    At noon, we were by observation in the latitude of 24° 19′ S, longitude made from Sandy Cape 1° 14′ W.

  331. 23 May 1770

    Bustard Bay

    Continued our course along shore at the distance of about 2 miles off, having from 12 to 9, 8, and 7 fathoms, until 5 o’clock, at which time we were abreast of the south point of a large open bay (Bustard Bay), wherein I intended to anchor. Accordingly, we hauled in close upon a wind and sent a boat ahead to sound; after making some trips we anchored at 8 o’clock in 5 fathoms, sandy bottom. The south point of the bay bore E. ¾ S., distant 2 miles; the north point N.W. ¼ N., about 2 miles from the shore, in the bottom of the bay.

    Last night, some time in the middle watch, a very extraordinary affair happened to Mr. Orton, my clerk. He having been drinking in the evening, some malicious person or persons in the ship took advantage of his being drunk, and cut off all the clothes from off his back; not being satisfied with this, they some time after went into his cabin and cut off a part of both his ears as he lay asleep in his bed.

    The person whom he suspected to have done this was Mr. Magra, one of the midshipmen; but this did not appear to me. Upon inquiry, however, as I had been told that Magra had once or twice before this, in their drunken frolics, cut off his clothes, and had been heard to say (as I was told) that if it was not for the law he would murder him, these things considered induced me to think that Magra was not altogether innocent.

    I therefore for the present dismissed him from the quarter-deck, and suspended him from doing any duty in the ship, he being one of those gentlemen frequently found on board King’s ships that can very well be spared; besides, it was necessary in me to show my immediate resentment against the person on whom the suspicion fell, lest they should not have stopped here.

    With respect to Mr. Orton, he is a man not without faults; yet from all the inquiry I could make, it evidently appeared to me that, so far from deserving such treatment, he had not designed injuring any person in the ship; so that I do—and shall always—look upon him as an injured man. Some reasons, however, might be given why this misfortune came upon him, in which he himself was in some measure to blame; but as this is only conjecture, and would tend to fix it upon some people in the ship whom I would fain believe would hardly be guilty of such an action, I shall say nothing about it unless I shall hereafter discover the offenders, which I shall take every method in my power to do, for I look upon such proceedings as highly dangerous in such voyages as this, and the greatest insult that could be offered to my authority in this ship, as I have always been ready to hear and redress every complaint that has been made against any person in the ship.

    (This account of Mr. Orton’s misadventure is omitted from the Admiralty copy.)

    In the A.M. I went ashore with a party of men in order to examine the country, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen. We landed a little within the south point of the bay, where there is a channel leading into a large lagoon.

    The first thing I did was to sound and examine the channel, in which I found 3 fathoms, until I got about a mile up it, where I met with a shoal whereon was little more than one fathom; being over this I had 3 fathoms again. The entrance into this channel lies close to the south point of this bay, being formed on the east by the shore, and on the west by a large spit of sand; it is about ¼ of a mile broad, and lies in S. by W. Here is room for a few ships to lie very secure, and a small stream of fresh water.

    After this I made a little excursion into the woods while some hands made 3 or 4 hauls with the seine, but caught not above a dozen very small fish. By this time the flood was made, and I embarked in the boats in order to row up the lagoon; but in this I was hindered by meeting everywhere with shoal water.

    As yet we had seen no people, but saw a great deal of smoke up and on the west side of the lagoon, which was all too far off for us to go by land, excepting one. This we went to and found 10 small fires in a very small compass, and some cockle shells lying by them, but the people were gone. On the windward or south side of one of the fires was stuck up a little bark about a foot and a half high, and some few pieces lay about in other places; these we concluded were all the covering they had in the night, and many of them, I firmly believe, have not this, but, naked as they are, sleep in the open air.

    Tupia, who was with us, observed that they were Taata Eno’s, that is, bad or poor people.

    The country is visibly worse than at the last place we were at; the soil is dry and sandy, and the woods are free from underwoods of every kind. Here are the same sort of trees as we found in Botany Harbour, with a few other sorts. One sort, which is by far the most numerous in the woods, grows something like birch; the bark at first sight looks like birch bark, but upon examination I found it to be very different, and so I believe is the wood; but this I could not examine, as having no axe or anything with me to cut down a tree.

    About the skirts of the lagoon grows the true mangrove, such as are found in the West Indies, and which we have not seen during the voyage before; here is likewise a sort of palm tree, which grows on low, barren, sandy places in the South Sea Islands.

    All, or most, of the same sort of land and water fowl as we saw at Botany Harbour we saw here; besides these we saw some bustards, such as we have in England, one of which we killed that weighed 17½ pounds, which occasioned my giving this place the name of Bustard Bay (latitude 24° 4′ S, longitude 208° 22′ W). We likewise saw some black and white ducks.

    Here are plenty of small oysters sticking to the rocks, stones, and mangrove trees, and some few other shellfish, such as large mussels, pearl oysters, cockles, etc. I measured the perpendicular height of the last tide and found it to be 8 feet above low-water mark, and from the time of low water today I found that it must be high water at the full and change of the moon at 8 o’clock.

  332. 24 May 1770

    Departure from Bustard Bay

    In the P.M. I was employed ashore in the transactions before related; at 4 a.m. we weighed with a gentle breeze at south, and made sail out of the bay.

    In standing out our soundings were from 5 to 15 fathoms; when in this last depth we were abreast of the north point, and, being daylight, we discovered breakers stretching out from it about N.N.E. 2 or 3 miles; at the outermost point of them is a rock just above water.

    In passing these rocks, at the distance of ½ a mile, we had from 15 to 20 fathoms; being past them, we hauled along shore W.N.W. for the farthest land we had in sight.

    At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 23° 52′ S; the north part of Bustard Bay bore S. 62° E., distance 10 miles, and the northermost land in sight N. 60° W.

    Longitude 208° 37′ W., distance from the nearest shore 6 miles; in this situation had 14 fathoms water.

  333. 25 May 1770

    Off Cape Capricorn

    In the P.M. had it calm until 5, when a light breeze sprung up at S.E., and we steered N.W. as the land lay until 10, then brought to, having had all along 14 and 15 fathoms.

    At 5 a.m. we made sail; at daylight the northermost point of the main bore N. 70° W., and soon after we saw more land making like islands, bearing N.W. by N. At 9 we were abreast of the point, distant from it 1 mile; depth of water 14 fathoms.

    I found this point to lie directly under the Tropic of Capricorn, and for that reason called it by that name. Longitude 209° 0′ W. It is of moderate height, and looks white and barren, and may be known by some islands which lie to the N.W. of it, and some small rocks one league S.E. from it. On the west side of the Cape there appeared to be a lagoon. On the two spits which form the entrance were a great number of pelicans—at least, so I call them.

    The northernmost land we could see bore from Cape Capricorn N. 24° W., and appeared to be an island (Hummocky Island); but the main land trended W. by N. ½ N., which course we steered, having from 15 to 16 fathoms and from 6 to 9, hard sandy bottom.

    At noon our latitude by observation was 23° 24′ S; Cape Capricorn bore S. 60° E., distance 2 leagues; a small island N. by E. 2 miles. In this situation had 9 fathoms, at the distance of 4 miles from the main land, which is here low and sandy next the sea, except the points, which are moderately high and rocky; inland, the country is hilly, and affords but a very indifferent prospect.

  334. 26 May 1770

    Off the Keppel Islands

    In the P.M. light breezes at E.S.E., with which we stood to the N.W. until 4 o’clock, when it fell calm, and soon after we anchored in 12 fathoms, Cape Capricorn bearing S. 54° E., distant 4 leagues, having the mainland and islands in a manner all around us.

    In the night we found the tide to rise and fall near 7 feet, and the flood to set to the westward and the ebb to the eastward, which is quite the reverse to what we found when at anchor to the eastward of Bustard Bay.

    At 6 a.m. we weighed with the wind at south, a gentle breeze, and stood away to the N.W., between the outermost range of islands (the Keppel Islands) and the mainland, leaving several small islands between us and the latter, which we passed close by. Our soundings were a little irregular, from 12 to 4 fathoms, which caused me to send a boat ahead to sound.

    At noon we were about 3 miles from the main, and about the same distance from the islands without us; our latitude by observation was 23° 7′ S, and longitude made from Cape Capricorn 18 miles west.

    The mainland in this latitude is tolerably high and mountainous, and the islands which lie off it are most of them pretty high and of a small circuit, having more the appearance of barrenness than fertility. We saw smokes a good way inland, which makes me think there must be a river, lagoon, or inlet into the country; and we passed two places that had the appearance of such this morning, but our depth of water at that time was too little to haul in for them, where I might expect to meet with less.

  335. 27 May 1770

    Keppel Bay and Cape Manifold

    We had not stood on to the northward quite an hour before we fell into 3 fathoms, upon which I anchored, and sent away the Master with two boats to sound the channel, which lay to leeward of us between the northernmost island and the mainland, which appeared to me to be pretty broad; but I suspected it was shoal—and so it was found, for the Master reported to me upon his return that he found in many places only 2½ fathoms, and where we lay at anchor we had only 16 feet, which was not two feet more than the ship drew. (This was between Great Keppel Island and the mainland; there is a mass of shoals here.)

    In the evening the wind veered to E.N.E., which gave us an opportunity to stretch three or four miles back the way we came, before the wind shifted to south and obliged us again to anchor in 6 fathoms.

    At 5 o’clock a.m. I sent away the Master with two boats to search for a passage out between the islands, while the ship got under sail. As soon as it was light the signal was made by the boats of their having found a passage, upon which we hoisted in the boats and made sail to the northward as the land lay, soundings from 9 to 15 fathoms, having still some small islands without us. (The ship passed out between Great Keppel Island and North Keppel Island.)

    At noon we were about 2 leagues from the mainland, and by observation in the latitude of 22° 53′ S, longitude made from Cape Capricorn 0° 20′ W. At this time the northernmost point of land in sight bore N.N.W., distance 10 miles; this point I named Cape Manifold, from the number of high hills over it, latitude 22° 43′ S. It lies N. 20° W., distant 17 leagues from Cape Capricorn.

    Between them the shore forms a large bay, which I called Keppel Bay, and the islands which lie in and off it are known by the same name. In this bay is good anchorage, where there is a sufficient depth of water; what refreshment it may afford for shipping I know not. (As before mentioned, the Fitzroy River falls into Keppel Bay and forms a good harbour, though much encumbered with sandbanks.)

    We caught no fish here, notwithstanding we were at anchor; but it can hardly be doubted that it affords fresh water in several places, as both the mainland and islands are inhabited. We saw smokes by day and fires by night upon the main, and people upon one of the islands.

  336. 28 May 1770

    Near Cape Manifold and Cape Townshend

    Winds at South-South-East, a fresh breeze. At 3 o’Clock in the P.M. we passed Cape Manifold, from which the Land Trends North-North-West. The land of this Cape is tolerable high, and riseth in hills directly from the Sea; it may be known by 3 Islands laying off it, one near the Shore, and the other 2 Eight Miles out at Sea; the one of these is low and flat, and the other high and round. (Peak and Flat Islands.)

    At 6 o’Clock we shortned sail and brought too; the Northermost part of the Main we had in sight bore North-West, and some Islands lying off it bore North 31 degrees West; our soundings since Noon were from 20 to 25 fathoms, and in the Night 30 and 34 fathoms. At day light we made Sail, Cape Manifold bearing South by East, distance 8 Leagues, and the Islands set last night in the same directions, distance from us 4 Miles. The farthest point of the Main bore North 67 degrees West, distant 22 Miles; but we could see several Islands to the Northward of this direction. (The easternmost of the Northumberland Islands.)

    At 9 o’Clock we were abreast of the above point, which I named Cape Townshend (Charles Townshend was Chancellor of the Exchequer 1767) (Latitude 22 degrees 13 minutes, Longitude 209 degrees 48 minutes West); the land of this Cape is of a moderate and pretty even height, and is more barren than woody. Several Islands lay to the Northward of it, 4 or 5 Leagues out at Sea. 3 or 4 Leagues to the South-East the Shore forms a bay (Shoalwater Bay, a large inlet) in the bottom of which there appeared to be an inlet or Harbour to the Westward of the Coast, and Trends South-West 1/2 South; and these form a very large Bay, which turns away to the Eastward, and probably communicates with the Inlet above mentioned, and by that Means makes the land of the Cape an Island.

    As soon as we got round the Cape we hauld our wind to the Westward in order to get within the Islands which lay scatter’d up and down in this bay in great number, and extend out to Sea as far as we could see from the Masthead; how much farther will hardly be in my power to determine; they are as Various in their height and Circuit as they are numerous. (The Northumberland Islands, a very extensive group.) We had not stood long upon a Wind before we meet with Shoal Water, and was obliged to Tack about to avoid it; after which I sent a boat ahead, and we bore away West by North, leaving many small Islands, Rocks, and Shoals between us and the Main, and a number of Large Islands without us; soundings from 14 to 17 fathoms, Sandy Bottom.

    A little before noon the boat made the Signal for meeting with Shoal Water, upon which we hauld close upon a Wind to the Eastward, but suddenly fell into 3 1/4 fathoms water, upon which we immediately let go an Anchor, and brought the Ship up with all sails standing, and had then 4 fathoms Coarse sandy bottom. We found here a strong Tide setting to the North-West by West 1/2 West, at the rate of between 2 and 3 Miles an Hour, which was what Carried us so quickly upon the Shoal. Our Latitude by Observation was 22 degrees 8 minutes South; Cape Townshend bore East 16 degrees South, distant 13 Miles, and the Westermost part of the Main Land in sight West 3/4 North, having a number of Islands in sight all round us. (The ship was on the Donovan Shoal in Broad Sound Channel.)

  337. 29 May 1770

    Anchoring Near an Inlet and Searching for Fresh Water

    Fresh gales between the South-South-East and East-South-East, hazey weather, with some showers of rain. In the P.M., having sounded about the Ship, and found that there was sufficient water for her over the Shoal, we at 3 o’clock weigh’d and made Sail, and stood to the Westward as the Land lay, having first sent a boat ahead to sound.

    At 6 we anchor’d in 10 fathoms, sandy bottom, about 2 Miles from the Main Land, the Westermost part of which bore West-North-West, having still a number of Islands in sight a long way without us. At 5 a.m. I sent away the Master with 2 Boats to sound the entrance of an inlet, which bore from us West, distance about 1 League, into which I intended to go with the Ship to wait a few days, until the Moon increased, and in the meantime to examine the Country.

    By such time as we had got the Ship under Sail the Boats made the Signal for Anchorage, upon which we stood in with the Ship, and anchor’d in 5 fathoms, about a League within the entrance of the inlet, which we judged to be a River running a good way inland, as I observed the Tides to flow and Ebb something considerable. (It is in reality a narrow channel which runs into Broad Sound.)

    I had some thoughts of laying the Ship ashore to clean her bottom. With this view both the Master and I went to look for a convenient place for that purpose, and at the same time to look for fresh Water, not one drop of which we could find, but met with several places where a Ship might be laid ashore with safety.

  338. 30 May 1770

    Exploration of Thirsty Sound and Search for Water

    In the P.M. I went again in search of fresh water, but had no better success than before; wherefore I gave over all thoughts of laying the Ship ashore, being resolved to spend as little time as possible in a place that was likely to afford us no sort of refreshment. But as I had observed from the hills the inlet to run a good way in, I thought this a good time to penetrate into the country to see a little of the inland parts. Accordingly I prepared for making that excursion in the morning.

    The first thing I did was to get upon a pretty high hill, which is at the North-West entrance of the inlet, before sunrise, in order to take a view of the sea coast and islands that lay off it, and to take their bearings, having the Azimuth Compass with me for that purpose. The needle of which differ’d from its true position something very considerable, even above 30 degrees, in some places more, and in others less, for I try’d it in several places. I found it differ in itself above 2 points in the space of about 14 feet.

    The loose stones which lay upon the ground had no effect upon the needle; I therefore concluded that it must be owing to iron ore upon the hill, visible signs of which appeared not only here, but in several other places. As soon as I had done here I proceeded up the inlet. I set out with the first of the flood, and long before high water got about 8 leagues up it; its breadth thus far was from 2 to 4 or 5 miles upon a South-West by South direction.

    Here it spread every way and formed a large lake, which communicated with the sea to the North-West. I not only saw the sea in this direction, but found the tide of flood coming strong in from the North-West. I likewise observed an arm of this lake extending to the Eastward, and it is not at all improbable but what it communicates with the sea in the bottom of the bay, which lies to the Westward of Cape Townshend. (This is exactly what it does.)

    On the south side of the lake is a ridge of pretty high hills, which I was desirous of going upon; but as the day was far spent and high water, I was afraid of being bewildered among the shoals in the night, which promised to be none of the best, being already rainy, dirty weather. Therefore, I made the best of my way to the Ship. In this little excursion I saw only two people, and those at a distance, and are all that we have seen in this place, but we have met with several fire places, and seen smokes at a distance.

    This inlet, which I have named Thirsty Sound, by reason we could find no fresh water, lies in the latitude of 22 degrees 05 minutes South, and longitude 210 degrees 24 West. It may be known by a group of small islands laying under the shore from 2 to 5 leagues North-West from it. (Barren Islands.) There is likewise another group of islands laying right before it between 3 and 4 leagues out at sea. (Duke Islands.)

    Over each of the points that form the entrance is a pretty high, round hill; that on the North-West is a peninsula, surrounded by the sea at high water; the distance from the one to the other is about 2 miles, bold to both shores. Here is good anchoring in 7, 6, 5, and 4 fathoms water, and very convenient places for laying a Ship ashore, where at spring tides the tides do not rise less than 16 or 18 feet, and flows at full and change of the moon about 11 o’clock.

    We met with no fresh water, or any other kind of refreshments whatever; we saw two turtle, but caught none, nor any sort of fish or wild fowl, except a few small land birds. Here are the same sort of water fowl as we saw in Botany Bay, and like them, so shy that it is hardly possible to get within shot of them.

    No signs of fertility are to be seen upon the land; the soil of the uplands is mostly a hard, reddish clay, and produceth several sorts of trees, such as we have seen before, and some others, and clear of all underwoods. All the low lands are mostly overrun with mangroves, and at spring tides overflowed by the sea; and I believe in the rainy seasons here are large land floods, as we saw in many places gullies, which seem’d to have been made by torrents of water coming from the adjacent hills, besides other visible signs of the water having been a considerable height above the common spring tides.

    Dr. Solander and I were upon a rising ground up the inlet, which we thought had at one time or another been overflowed by the sea, and if so, great part of the country must at that time have been laid under water. Up in the lakes, or lagoons, I suppose, are shell fish, on which the few natives subsist. We found oysters sticking to most of the rocks upon the shore, which were so small as not to be worth the picking off. (Cook was very unfortunate in his landing here. The channel is at the end of a long headland between two bays, Shoalwater Bay and Broad Sound, and was a very unlikely place either to find water or get any true idea of the country.)

  339. 31 May 1770

    Departure from Thirsty Sound

    Winds Southerly and South-East; dark, hazey weather, with rain. In the P.M., finding no one inducement to stay longer in this place, we at 6 a.m. weighed and put to sea, and stood to the North-West, having the advantage of a fresh breeze at South-South-East.

    We kept without the group of islands which lay inshore and to the North-West of Thirsty Sound, as there appear’d to be no safe passage between them and the Main. At the same time we had a number of islands without us, extending out to sea as far as we could see. As we run in this direction, our depth of water was 10, 8, and 9 fathoms. (The ship passed between the Duke Islands and the maze of reefs and islands lying North-West of Thirsty Sound.)

    At noon the North-West point of Thirsty Sound, which I have named Pier Head, bore South 36 degrees East, distant 5 Leagues. The East point of the other inlet, which communicates with the former, as I have before mentioned, bore South by West, distance 2 1/2 Leagues, the group of islands above mentioned laying between us and the point. The farthest part of the Main in sight, on the other side of the inlet, bore North-West; our latitude by observation was 21 degrees 53 minutes South.

  340. 1 June 1770

    Navigating Near Broad Sound and Naming Cape Palmerston

    At half an hour after noon, upon the boat we had ahead sounding making the signal for shoal water, we hauld our wind to the North-East, having at that time 7 fathoms; the next cast 5, and then 3, upon which we let go an anchor, and brought the ship up. The North-West point of Thirsty Sound, or Pier Head, bore South-East, distance 6 leagues, being midway between the islands which lie off the East point of the Western inlet and 3 small islands directly without them. (The shoal is now known as Lake Shoal. The three islands are the Bedwell Islands.)

    It being now the first of the flood, we found it to set North-West by West 1/2 West. After having sounded about the shoal, on which we found not quite 3 fathoms, but without it deep water, we got under sail, and hauld round the 3 islands just mentioned, and came to an anchor under the lee of them in 15 fathoms, having at this time dark, hazey, rainy weather, which continued until 7 o’clock a.m.

    At that time we got again under sail, and stood to the North-West with a fresh breeze at South-South-East and fair weather, having the mainland in sight and a number of islands all round us, some of which lay out at sea as far as we could see. The Western Inlet before mentioned, known in the chart by the name of Broad Sound, we had now all open. It is at least 9 or 10 leagues wide at the entrance, with several islands laying in and before, and I believe shoals also, for we had very irregular soundings, from 10 to 5 and 4 fathoms.

    At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 21 degrees 29 minutes South, and longitude made from Cape Townshend 59 degrees West. A point of land, which forms the North-West entrance into Broad Sound, bore from us at this time West, distance 3 leagues. This cape I have named Cape Palmerston (Henry Viscount Palmerston was a Lord of the Admiralty, 1766 to 1778) (Latitude 21 degrees 27 minutes South, Longitude 210 degrees 57 minutes West).

    Between this Cape and Cape Townshend lies the Bay of Inlets, so named from the number of inlets, creeks, etc., in it. (The name Bay of Inlets has disappeared from the charts. Cook applied it to the whole mass of bays in this locality, covering over 60 miles. A look at a modern chart causes amazement that Cook managed to keep his ship off the ground, as the whole sea in his track is strewed with dangers.)

  341. 2 June 1770

    Sailing Past Cape Hillsborough and the Cumberland Islands

    Winds at South-South-East and South-East, a gentle breeze, with which we stood to the North-West and North-West by North, as the land lay, under an easy sail. Having a boat ahead, we found our soundings at first were very irregular, from 9 to 4 fathoms; but afterwards regular, from 9 to 11 fathoms. At 8, being about 2 leagues from the main land, we anchor’d in 11 fathoms, sandy bottom.

    Soon after this we found a slow motion of a tide setting to the Eastward, and rode so until 6, at which time the tide had risen 11 feet. We now got under sail and stood away North-North-West as the land lay. From the observations made on the tide last night it is plain that the flood comes from the North-West; whereas yesterday and for several days before we found it to come from the South-East. This is neither the first nor second time that we have observed the same thing, and in my opinion easy accounted for; but this I shall do in another place.

    At sunrise we found the variation to be 6 degrees 45 minutes East. In steering along shore between the island and the main, at the distance of 2 leagues from the latter, and 3 or 4 from the former, our soundings were regular, from 12 to 9 fathoms. But about 11 o’clock we were again embarrassed with shoal water, (Blackwood Shoals) but got clear without letting go an anchor; we had at one time not quite 3 fathoms.

    At noon we were about 2 leagues from the main land, and about 4 from the islands without us; our latitude by observation was 20 degrees 56 minutes South, longitude made from Cape Palmerston 16 degrees West. A pretty high promontory, which I named Cape Hillsborough, (Earl of Hillsborough was the First Secretary of State for the Colonies, and President of the Board of Trade when the Endeavour sailed) bore West 1/2 North, distant 7 miles.

    The main land is here pretty much diversified with mountains, hills, plains, and valleys, and seemed to be tolerably clothed with wood and verdure. These islands, which lay parallel with the coast, and from 5 to 8 or 9 leagues off, are of various extent, both for height and circuit; hardly any exceeds 5 leagues in circuit, and many again are very small. (The Cumberland Islands. They stretch along the coast for 60 miles.)

    Besides the chain of islands which lay at a distance from the coast, there are other small ones laying under the land. Some few smokes were seen on the main land.

  342. 3 June 1770

    Exploration of Repulse Bay and Discovery of Cape Conway

    Winds between the South by East and South-East. A gentle breeze and clear weather. In the P.M. we steer’d along shore North-West 1/2 West, at the distance of 2 leagues from the Main, having 9 and 10 fathoms regular soundings. At sunset the furthest point of the main land that we could distinguish as such bore North 48 degrees West; to the Northward of this lay some high land, which I took to be an island, the North-West point of which bore North 41 degrees West.

    As I was not sure that there was a passage this way, we at 8 came to an anchor in 10 fathoms, muddy bottom. Two hours after this we had a tide setting to the Northward, and at 2 o’clock it had fallen 9 feet since the time we anchored. After this the tide began to rise, and the flood came from the Northward, which was from the islands out at sea, and plainly indicated that there was no passage to the North-West.

    But as this did not appear at daylight, we got under sail and stood away to the North-West until 8; at this time we discover’d low land quite across what we took for an opening between the Main and the islands, which proved to be a bay about 5 or 6 leagues deep. Upon this we hauld our wind to the Eastward round the northermost point of the bay, which bore from us at this time North-East by North, distance 4 leagues.

    From this point we found the main land trend away North by West 1/2 West, and a strait or passage between it and a large island (Whitsunday Island) or islands laying in a parallel direction with the coast; this passage we stood into, having the tide of ebb in our favour. At noon we were just within the entrance, and by observation in the latitude of 20 degrees 26 minutes South; Cape Hillsborough bore South by East, distant 10 leagues, and the north point of the bay before mentioned bore South 19 degrees West, distance 4 miles.

    This point I have named Cape Conway (General H.S. Conway was Secretary of State 1765 to 1768) (Latitude 20 degrees 30 minutes, Longitude 211 degrees 28 minutes), and the bay, Repulse Bay, which is formed by these two capes. The greatest and least depth of water we found in it was 13 and 8 fathoms; everywhere safe anchoring, and I believe, were it properly examined, there would be found some good harbour in it, especially on the north side within Cape Conway, for just within the cape lay 2 or 3 small islands, which alone would shelter that side of the bay from the South-East and Southerly winds, which seem to be the prevailing or trade winds.

    Among the many islands that lay upon this coast there is one more remarkable than the rest, (probably Blacksmith Island), being of a small circuit, very high and peaked, and lies East by South, 10 miles from Cape Conway at the south end of the passage above mentioned.

  343. 4 June 1770

    Through Whitsunday Passage and Naming Cape Gloucester

    Winds at South-South-East and South-East, a gentle breeze and clear weather. In the P.M. steerd through the passage (Whitsunday Passage. The aspect of the shores is very pleasing.) which we found from 3 to 6 or 7 miles broad, and 8 or 9 leagues in length, North by West 1/2 West and South by East 1/2 East. It is formed by the Main on the west, and by islands on the east, one of which is at least 5 leagues in length.

    Our depth of water in running through was between 25 and 20 fathoms; everywhere good anchorage. Indeed the whole passage is one continued safe harbour, besides a number of small bays and coves on each side, where ships might lay as it were in a basin; at least so it appeared to me, for I did not wait to examine it, as having been in port so lately, and being unwilling to lose the benefit of a light moon.

    The land, both on the Main and islands, especially on the former, is tolerably high, and distinguished by hills and valleys, which are diversified with woods and lawns that looked green and pleasant. On a sandy beach upon one of the islands we saw two people and a canoe with an outrigger, which appeared to be both larger and differently built to any we have seen upon the coast.

    At 6 we were nearly the length of the north end of the passage; the north-westermost point of the Main in sight bore North 54 degrees West, and the north end of the island North-North-East, having an open sea between these two points. [This passage I have named Whitsunday’s Passage, as it was discovered on the day the Church commemorates that Festival, and the isles which form it Cumberland Isles, in honour of His Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland. (Henry Frederick, Duke of Cumberland, was a younger brother of George III.)]

    We kept under an easy sail and the lead going all night, having 21, 22, and 23 fathoms, at the distance of 3 leagues from the land. At daylight A.M. we were abreast of the point above mentioned, which is a lofty promontory; that I named Cape Gloucester (William Henry, Duke of Gloucester and Edinburgh, a younger brother of George III.) (Latitude 19 degrees 57 minutes South, Longitude 211 degrees 54 minutes West).

    It may be known by an island which lies out at sea North by West 1/2 West, 5 or 6 leagues from it; this I called Holbourn Isle (Admiral Francis Holbourne commanded the fleet in North America in which Cook served in 1757.). There are also islands laying under the land between it and Whitsunday’s Passage.

    On the west side of the Cape the land trends away South-West and South-South-West, and forms a deep bay. The sand in the bottom of this bay I could but just see from the masthead; it is very low, and is a continuation of the same low land as is at the bottom of Repulse Bay. Without waiting to look into this bay, which I called Edgcumbe Bay (In Port Denison, on the western side of Edgcumbe Bay, is the rising town of Bowen, the port of an agricultural district. There is good coal in the vicinity. Captain G. Edgcumbe commanded the Lancaster in the fleet in North America in 1758 in which Cook served. Afterwards Earl of Mount Edgcumbe.), we continued our course to the westward for the westernmost land we had in sight, which bore from us West by North 1/2 North, and appeared very high.

    At noon we were about 3 leagues from the land, and by observation in the latitude of 19 degrees 47 minutes South, Cape Gloucester bearing South 63 degrees East, distant 7 1/2 leagues.

  344. 5 June 1770

    Naming Cape Upstart and Continuing Northwest

    Winds between the South and East, a gentle breeze, and serene weather. At 6 a.m. we were abreast of the western point of land above mentioned, distant from it 3 miles, which I have named Cape Upstart, because being surrounded with low land it starts or rises up singly at the first making of it (Latitude 19 degrees 39 minutes South, Longitude 212 degrees 32 minutes West). It lies West-North-West 14 leagues from Cape Gloucester and is of a height sufficient to be seen 12 leagues.

    It is not so much of a promontory as it appears to be, because on each side of it near the sea is very low land, which is not to be seen unless you are pretty well in with the shore. Inland are some tolerable high hills or mountains, which, like the Cape, affords but a very barren prospect.

    Having past this Cape, we continued standing to the West-North-West as the land lay, under an easy sail, having from 16 to 10 fathoms, until 2 o’clock a.m., when we fell into 7 fathoms, upon which we hauled our wind to the Northward, judging ourselves to be very near the land; as so we found, for at daylight we were little more than 2 leagues off. What deceived us was the lowness of the land, which is but very little higher than the surface of the sea, but in the country were some hills.

    At noon we were in 15 fathoms water, and about 4 leagues from the land. Our latitude by observation was 19 degrees 12 minutes South; Cape Upstart bore 38 degrees 30 minutes East, distant 12 leagues. Course and distance sail’d since yesterday noon North 48 degrees 45 minutes, 53 miles.

    At and before noon some very large smokes were seen rise up out of the low land. At sunrise I found the variation to be 5 degrees 35 minutes easterly; at sunset last night the same needle gave near 9 degrees. This being close under Cape Upstart, I judged that it was owing to iron ore or other magnetical matter lodged in the earth.

  345. 6 June 1770

    Discovery of Cleveland Bay and Magnetical Head

    Light airs at East-South-East, with which we steer’d West-North-West as the land now lay; depth of water 12 and 14 fathoms. At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 19 degrees 1 minute South, longitude made from Cape Gloucester 1 degree 30 minutes West; course and distance sail’d since yesterday noon West-North-West, 28 miles.

    In this situation we had the mouth of a bay all open, extending from South 1/2 East to South-West 1/2 South, distance 2 leagues. This bay, which I named Cleveland Bay, (In Cleveland Bay is Townsville, the largest town in Northern Queensland. Population 12,000.) appeared to be about 5 or 6 miles in extent every way.

    The east point I named Cape Cleveland, and the west Magnetical Head or Island, as it had much the appearance of an island; and the compass did not traverse well when near it. They are both tolerable high, and so is the main land within them, and the whole appeared to have the most rugged, rocky, and barren surface of any we have yet seen.

    However, it is not without inhabitants, as we saw smoke in several places in the bottom of the bay. The northermost land we had in sight at this time bore North-West; this we took to be an island or islands, for we could not trace the main land farther than West by North.

  346. 7 June 1770

    Passing the Palm Islands

    Light airs between the South and East, with which we steer’d West-North-West, keeping the main land on board, the outermost part of which at sunset bore from us West by North; but without this lay high land, which we took to be islands.

    At daylight A.M. we were the length of the eastern part of this land, which we found to consist of a group of islands (Palm Islands) laying about 5 leagues from the main. We being at this time between the two, we continued advancing slowly to the North-West until noon.

    At this time we were by observation in the latitude of 18 degrees 49 minutes, and about 5 leagues from the main land, the North-West part of which bore from us North by West 1/2 West, the island extending from North to East; distance of the nearest, 2 miles. Cape Cleveland bore South 50 degrees East, distant 18 leagues. Our soundings in the course of this day’s sail were from 14 to 11 fathoms.

  347. 8 June 1770

    Exploration of Hallifax Bay and Rockingham Bay

    Winds at South-South-East and South; first part light airs, the remainder a gentle breeze. In the P.M. we saw several large smokes upon the Main, some people, canoes, and, as we thought, cocoa nut trees upon one of the islands; and, as a few of these nuts would have been very acceptable to us at this time, I sent Lieutenant Hicks ashore, with whom went Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to see what was to be got.

    In the meantime we kept standing in for the island with the ship. At 7 they returned on board, having met with nothing worth observing. The trees we saw were a small kind of cabbage palms. They heard some of the natives as they were putting off from the shore, but saw none. After the boat was hoisted in we stood away North by West for the northermost land we had in sight, which we were abreast of at 3 o’clock in the morning, having passed all the islands 3 or 4 hours before.

    This point I have named Point Hillock, (Point Hillock is the east point of Hinchinbrook Island, which is separated from the main by a narrow and tortuous channel.) on account of its figure. The land of this point is tolerable high, and may be known by a round hillock or rock that appears to be detached from the point, but I believe it joins to it. Between this Cape and Cape Cleveland the shore forms a large bay, which I named Hallifax Bay (The Earl of Halifax was Secretary of State 1763 to 1765); before it lay the groups of islands before mentioned, and some others nearer the shore.

    These islands shelter the bay in a manner from all winds, in which is good anchorage. The land near the shore in the bottom of the bay is very low and woody; but a little way back in the country is a continued ridge of high land, which appear’d to be barren and rocky. Having passed Point Hillock, we continued standing to the North-North-West as the land trended, having the advantage of a light moon.

    At 6 a.m. we were abreast of a point of land which lies North by West 1/2 West, 11 miles from Point Hillock; the land between them is very high, and of a craggy, barren surface. This point I named Cape Sandwich (Earl of Sandwich was First Lord of the Admiralty 1763); it may not only be known by the high, craggy land over it, but by a small island which lies East one mile from it, and some others about 2 leagues to the northward of it.

    From Cape Sandwich the land trends West, and afterwards North, and forms a fine, large bay, which I called Rockingham Bay (The Marquis of Rockingham was Prime Minister 1765 to 1766). It is well shelter’d and affords good anchorage; at least, so it appear’d to me, for having met with so little encouragement by going ashore that I would not wait to land or examine it farther, but continued to range along shore to the Northward for a parcel of small islands (The Family Islands) laying off the northern point of the bay.

    Finding a channel of a mile broad between the 3 outermost and those nearer the shore, we pushed through. While we did this we saw on one of the nearest islands a number of the natives collected together, who seem’d to look very attentively upon the ship; they were quite naked and of a very dark colour, with short hair.

    At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 17 degrees 59 minutes, and abreast of the north point of Rockingham Bay, which bore from us West 2 miles. This boundary of the bay is formed by a tolerable high island, known in the chart by the name of Dunk Isle; it lays so near the shore as not to be distinguished from it unless you are well in with the land. At this time we were in the longitude of 213 degrees 57 minutes. Cape Sandwich bore South by East 1/2 East, distant 19 miles, and the northermost land in sight North 1/2 West.

    Our depth of water in the course of this day’s sail was not more than 16, nor less than 7, fathoms. (About here the Great Barrier Reefs begin to close in on the land. Cook kept so close to the latter that he was unconscious as yet of their existence; but he was soon to find them.)

  348. 9 June 1770

    Passing the Frankland Isles and Naming Cape Grafton

    Winds between the South and South-East, a gentle breeze, and clear weather, with which we steer’d North by West as the land lay, the northern extremity of which at sunset bore North 25 degrees West. We kept on our course under an easy sail all night, having from 12 to 16 fathoms, at the distance of about 3 or 4 leagues from the land.

    At 6 a.m. we were abreast of some small islands, which we called Frankland Isles, that lay about 2 leagues from the mainland, the northern point of which in sight bore North by West 1/2 West; but this we afterwards found to be an island (Fitzroy Island), tolerable high, and about 4 miles in circuit.

    It lies about 2 miles from the point on the main, between which we went with the ship, and were in the middle of the channel at noon, and by observation in the latitude of 16 degrees 55 minutes, where we had 20 fathoms of water. The point of land we were now abreast of I called Cape Grafton (The Duke of Grafton was Prime Minister when Cook sailed) (Latitude 16 degrees 55 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 11 minutes West).

    It is tolerable high, and so is the whole coast for 20 leagues to the southward, and hath a very rocky surface, which is thinly covered with wood. In the night we saw several fires along shore, and a little before noon some people.

  349. 10 June 1770

    Anchoring in the Bay Near Cape Grafton and Naming Trinity Bay

    After hauling round Cape Grafton, we found the land trend away North-West by West. Three miles to the westward of the Cape is a bay, wherein we anchor’d, about 2 miles from the shore, in 4 fathoms, owsey bottom. The east point of the bay bore South 74 degrees East, the west point South 83 degrees West, and a low green woody island laying in the offing bore North 35 degrees East.

    The island lies North by East 1/2 East, distance 3 or 4 leagues from Cape Grafton, and is known in the chart by the name of Green Island. As soon as the ship was brought to an anchor I went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. The first thing I did was to look for fresh water, and with that view rowed out towards the Cape, because in the bottom of the bay was low mangrove land, and little probability of meeting with any there.

    But the way I went I found two small streams, which were difficult to get at on account of the surf and rocks upon the shore. As we came round the Cape we saw, in a sandy cove, a small stream of water run over the beach; but here I did not go in the boat because I found that it would not be easy to land. We hardly advanced anything into the country, it being here hilly, steep, and rocky, and we had not time to visit the low lands, and therefore met with nothing remarkable.

    My intention was to have stay’d here at least one day, to have looked into the country had we met with fresh water convenient, or any other refreshment; but as we did not, I thought it would be only spending of time, and losing as much of a light moon to little purpose, and therefore at 12 o’clock at night we weighed and stood away to the North-West, having at this time but little wind, attended with showers of rain. (In the next bay west of where Cook anchored is Cairns, a small but rising town in the centre of a sugar-growing district.)

    At 4 the breeze freshened at South by East, with fair weather; we continued steering North-North-West 1/2 West as the land lay, having 10, 12, and 14 fathoms, at a distance of 3 leagues from the land. At 11 we hauled off North, in order to get without a small low island (Low Isles. There is now a lighthouse on them.) which lay about 2 leagues from the main; it being about high water, about the time we passed it, great part of it lay under water.

    About 3 leagues to the North-Westward of this island, close under the main land, is another island (Snapper Island), tolerable high, which bore from us at noon North 55 degrees West, distant 7 or 8 miles. We were at this time in the latitude of 16 degrees 20 minutes South, Cape Grafton bore South 29 degrees East, distant 40 miles, and the northermost point of land in sight North 20 degrees West. In this situation we had 15 fathoms of water.

    The shore between Cape Grafton and the above northern point forms a large but not very deep bay, which I named Trinity Bay, after the day on which it was discover’d. The north point I called Cape Tribulation, because here began all our troubles. Latitude 16 degrees 6 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 39 minutes West.

  350. 11 June 1770

    The Great Barrier Reef Incident

    The Endeavour ran aground on a coral reef off the coast of present-day Queensland — part of the Great Barrier Reef. It was one of the most perilous moments of the voyage. The crew worked through the night to lighten the ship and plug the damaged hull, finally refloating her after 23 tense hours.

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Wind at East-South-East, with which we steer’d along shore North by West at the distance of 3 or 4 leagues off, having from 14 to 10 and 12 fathoms water. Saw two small islands in the offing, which lay in the latitude of 16 degrees 0 minutes South, and about 6 or 7 leagues from the Main. At 6 the northermost land in sight bore North by West 1/2 West, and two low, woody islands (Hope Islands), which some took to be rocks above water, bore North 1/2 West.

    At this time we shortened sail and hauld off shore East-North-East and North-East by East, close upon a wind. My intention was to stretch off all night, as well to avoid the danger we saw ahead as to see if any islands lay in the offing, especially as we now began to draw near the latitude of those discover’d by Quiros, which some geographers, for what reason I know not, have thought proper to tack to this land.

    Having the advantage of a fine breeze of wind and a clear moonlight night, we stood off from 6 until near 9 o’clock, deepening our water from 14 to 21 fathoms, when all at once we fell into 12, 10, and 8 fathoms. At this time I had everybody at their stations to put about and come to an anchor; but in this I was not so fortunate, for meeting again with deep water, I thought there could be no danger in standing on. (The ship passed just northward of Pickersgill Reef.)

    Before 10 o’clock we had 20 and 21 fathoms, and continued in that depth until a few minutes before 11, when we had 17, and before the man at the lead could heave another cast, the ship struck and stuck fast. Immediately upon this we took in all our sails, hoisted out the boats, and sounded round the ship, and found that we had got upon the South-East edge of a reef of coral rocks, having in some places round the ship 3 and 4 fathoms water, and in other places not quite as many feet; and about a ship’s length from us on the starboard side (the ship laying with her head to the North-East) were 8, 10, and 12 fathoms.

    As soon as the longboat was out we struck yards and topmast, and carried out the stream anchor on our starboard bow, got the coasting anchor and cable into the boat, and were going to carry it out in the same way; but upon my sounding the second time round the ship I found the most water astern, and therefore had this anchor carried out upon the starboard quarter, and hove upon it a very great strain; which was to no purpose, the ship being quite fast.

    Upon this we went to work to lighten her as fast as possible, which seemed to be the only means we had left to get her off. As we went ashore about the top of high water we not only started water, but threw overboard our guns, iron and stone ballast, casks, hoop staves, oil jars, decayed stores, etc.; many of these last articles lay in the way at coming at heavier. All this time the ship made little or no water.

    At 11 a.m., being high water as we thought, we tried to heave her off without success, she not being afloat by a foot or more, notwithstanding by this time we had thrown overboard 40 or 50 tons weight. As this was not found sufficient, we continued to lighten her by every method we could think of. As the tide fell the ship began to make water as much as two pumps could free.

    At noon she lay with 3 or 4 streaks heel to starboard; latitude observed 15 degrees 45 minutes South.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), June 11, 1770:

    “… but a few minutes before eleven, the water shallowed at once from twenty to seventeen fathom, and before the lead could be cast again, the ship struck, and remained immoveable, except by the heaving of the surge, that beat her against the craggs of the rock upon which me lay. In a few moments every body was upon the deck, with countenances which sufficiently expressed the horrors of our situation.

    We had stood off the shore three hours and a half, with a pleasant breeze, and therefore knew that we could not be very near it, and we had too much reason to conclude that we were upon a rock of coral, which is more fatal than any other, because the points of it are sharp, and every part of the surface so rough as to grind away whatever is rubbed against it, even with the gentlest motion. In this situation all the sails were immediately taken in, and the boats hoisted out to examine the depth of water round the ship: we soon discovered that our fears had not aggravated our misfortune, and that the vessel had been lifted over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within it: in some places there was from three to four fathom, and in others not so many feet. The ship lay with her head to the N. E.; and at the distance of about thirty yards on the starboard side, the water deepened to eight, ten, and twelve fathom.

    As soon as the long-boat was out, we struck our yards and top-masts, and carried out the stream anchor on the starboard bow, got the coasting anchor and cable into the boat, and were going to carry it out the same way; but upon sounding a second time round the ship, the water was found to be deepest astern: the anchor therefore was carried out from the starboard quarter instead of the starboard bow, that is, from the stern instead of the head, and having taken ground, our utmost force was applied to the capstern, hoping that if the anchor did not come home, the ship would be got off, but to our great misfortune and disappointment we could not move her: during all this time she continued to beat with great violence against the rock, so that it was with the utmost difficulty that we kept upon our legs; and to complete the scene of distress,. we saw by the light of the moon the sheathing boards from the bottom of the vessel floating away all round her, and at last her false keel, so that every moment was making way for the sea to rush in which was to swallow us up.

    We had now no chance but to lighten her, and we had lost the opportunity of doing that to the greatest advantage, for unhappily we went on shore just at high water, and by this time it had considerably fallen, so that after the should be lightened so as to draw as much less water as the water had sunk, we should be but in the same situation as at first; and the only alleviation of this circumstance was, that as the tide ebbed the ship settled to the rocks, and was not beaten against them with so much violence.

    We had indeed some hope from the next tide, but it was doubtful whether the would hold together so long, especially as the rock kept grating her bottom under the starboard bow with such force as to be heard in the fore store-room. This however was no time to indulge conjecture, nor was any effort remitted in despair of success: that no time might be lost, the water was immediately started in the hold, and pumped up; six of our guns, being all we had upon the deck, our iron and stone ballast, casks, hoop staves, oil jars, decayed stores, and many other things that lay in the way of heavier materials, were thrown over-board with the utmost expedition, every one exerting himself with an alacrity almost approaching to cheerfulness, without the least repining or discontent; yet the men were so far imprest with a sense of their situation, that not an oath was heard among them, the habit of profaneness, however strong, being instantly subdued, by the dread of incurring guilt when death seemed to be so near.”

    Banks’s Journal, June 10 1770:

    “Just without us as we lay at an anchor was a small sandy Island laying upon a large Coral shoal, much resembling the low Islands to the eastward of us but the first of the kind we had met with in this part of the South Sea. Early in the morn we weighd and saild as usual with a fine breeze along shore, the Countrey hilly and stoney.

    At night fall rocks and sholes were seen ahead, on which the ship was put upon a wind off shore. While we were at supper she went over a bank of 7 or 8 fathom water which she came upon very suddenly; this we concluded to be the tail of the Sholes we had seen at sunset and therefore went to bed in perfect security, but scarce were we warm in our beds when we were calld up with the alarming news of the ship being fast ashore upon a rock, which she in a few moments convincd us of by beating very violently against the rocks.

    Our situation became now greatly alarming: we had stood off shore 3 hours and a half with a plesant breeze so knew we could not be very near it: we were little less than certain that we were upon sunken coral rocks, the most dreadfull of all others on account of their sharp points and grinding quality which cut through a ships bottom almost immediately. The officers however behavd with inimitable coolness void of all hurry and confusion; a boat was got out in which the master went and after sounding round the ship found that she had ran over a rock and consequently had Shole water all round her.

    All this time she continued to beat very much so that we could hardly keep our legs upon the Quarter deck; by the light of the moon we could see her sheathing boards etc. floating thick round her; about 12 her false keel came away.”

    ______

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  351. 12 June 1770

    The Endeavour Floats Free but Battles a Dangerous Leak

    Fortunately we had little wind, fine weather, and a smooth sea all this 24 hours, which in the P.M. gave us an opportunity to carry out the two bower anchors — one on the starboard quarter, and the other right astern. We got blocks and tackles upon the cables, brought the falls in abaft, and hove taut. By this time it was 5 o’clock p.m.; the tide we observed now begun to rise, and the leak increased upon us, which obliged us to set the third pump to work. We would have set the fourth also, but could not make it work.

    At 9 the ship righted, and the leak gained upon the pumps considerably. This was an alarming and, I may say, terrible circumstance, and threatened immediate destruction to us. However, I resolved to risk all and heave her off in case it was practical, and accordingly turned as many hands to the capstan and windlass as could be spared from the pumps; and about 20 minutes past 10 o’clock the ship floated, and we hove her into deep water, having at this time 3 feet 9 inches water in the hold.

    This done, I sent the longboat to take up the stream anchor, got the anchor, but lost the cable among the rocks; after this, turned all hands to the pumps, the leak increasing upon us. A mistake soon after happened, which for the first time caused fear to approach upon every man in the ship.

    The man that attended the well took the depth of water above the ceiling; he, being relieved by another who did not know in what manner the former had sounded, took the depth of water from the outside plank — the difference being 16 or 18 inches — and made it appear that the leak had gained this upon the pumps in a short time.

    This mistake was no sooner cleared up than it acted upon every man like a charm; they redoubled their vigour, insomuch that before 8 o’clock in the morning they gained considerably upon the leak. (The circumstance related in this paragraph is from the Admiralty copy.)

    We now hove up the best bower, but found it impossible to save the small bower, so cut it away at a whole cable. Got up the fore topmast and foreyard, warped the ship to the South-East, and at 11 got under sail, and stood in for the land with a light breeze at East-South-East. Some hands were employed sewing oakum, wool, etc., into a lower steering sail to fother the ship; others were employed at the pumps, which still gained upon the leak.

  352. 13 June 1770

    The Leak Is Stopped and Hope Islands Named

    In the P.M. had light airs at East-South-East, with which we kept edging in for the land. Got up the main topmast and mainyard, and having got the sail ready for fothering of the ship, we put it over under the starboard fore chains, where we suspected the ship had suffered most, and soon after the leak decreased, so as to be kept clear with one pump with ease. This fortunate circumstance gave new life to everyone on board.

    It is much easier to conceive than to describe the satisfaction felt by everybody on this occasion. But a few minutes before, our utmost wishes were to get hold of some place upon the main or an island, to run the ship ashore, where out of her materials we might build a vessel to carry us to the East Indies. No sooner were we made sensible that the outward application to the ship’s bottom had taken effect, than the field of every man’s hopes enlarged, so that we thought of nothing but ranging along shore in search of a harbour, where we could repair the damages we had sustained.

    (The foregoing paragraph is from the Admiralty copy. The situation was indeed sufficiently awkward. When it is considered that the coast was wholly unknown, the natives decidedly hostile, the land unproductive of any means of subsistence, and the distance to the nearest Dutch settlements—even if a passage should be found south of New Guinea—1500 miles, there was ample cause for apprehension if they could not save the ship. Knowing what we now know, that all off this coast is a continuous line of reefs and shoals, Cook’s action in standing off might seem rash. But he knew nothing of this. There was a moon; he reduced sail to double-reefed topsails with a light wind, as the log tells us, and with the cumbrous hempen cables of the day and the imperfect means of heaving up the anchor, he was desirous of saving his men unnecessary labour. Cook was puzzled that the next tide did not, after lightening the ship, take him off; but it is now known that on this coast it is only every alternate tide that rises to a full height, and as he got ashore nearly at the top of the higher of the two waters he had to wait twenty-four hours until he got a similar rise. Lucky was it for them that the wind was light. Usually at this season the trade wind is strong and raises a considerable sea, even inside the Barrier. Hawkesworth or Banks makes the proposition to fother the ship emanate from Mr. Monkhouse; but it is scarcely to be supposed that such a perfect seaman as Cook was not familiar with this operation, and he merely says that as Mr. Monkhouse had seen it done, he confided to him the superintendence of it, as of course the Captain had at such a time many other things to do than stand over the men preparing the sail. In 1886 the people of Cooktown were anxious to recover the brass guns of the Endeavour which were thrown overboard, in order to place them as a memento in their town; but they could not be found, which is not altogether surprising.)

    In justice to the ship’s company, I must say that no men ever behaved better than they have done on this occasion. Animated by the behaviour of every gentleman on board, every man seemed to have a just sense of the danger we were in, and exerted himself to the very utmost.

    The ledge of rocks, or shoal, we have been upon, lies in the latitude of 15 degrees 45 minutes, and about 6 or 7 leagues from the main land; but this is not the only shoal that lies upon this part of the coast, especially to the northward, and one which we saw to the southward, the tail of which we passed over when we had the uneven soundings two hours before we struck. A part of this shoal is always above water, and looks to be white sand; part of the one we were upon was dry at low water, and in that place consists of sand and stones, but everywhere else coral rocks.

    At 6 we anchored in 17 fathoms, about 5 or 6 leagues from the land, and one from the shoal. At this time the ship made about 15 inches water per hour. At 6 a.m. weighed and stood to the North-West, edging in for the land, having a gentle breeze at South-South-East. At 9 we passed close without two small low islands, laying in the latitude of 15 degrees 41 minutes, and about 4 leagues from the main. I have named them Hope Islands, because we were always in hopes of being able to reach these islands.

    At noon we were about 3 leagues from the land, and in the latitude of 15 degrees 37 minutes South; the northermost part of the main in sight bore North 30 degrees West, and the above islands extending from South 30 degrees East to South 40 degrees East. In this situation had 12 fathoms water and several sandbanks without us.

    The leak now decreased, but for fear it should break out again we got the sail ready filled for fothering. The manner this is done is thus: we mix oakum and wool together (but oakum alone would do), and chop it up small, and then stick it loosely by handfuls all over the sail, and throw over it sheep dung or other filth. Horse dung for this purpose is the best.

    The sail thus prepared is hauled under the ship’s bottom by ropes, and if the place of the leak is uncertain, it must be hauled from one part of her bottom to another until one finds the place where it takes effect. While the sail is under the ship the oakum, etc., is washed off, and part of it carried along with the water into the leak, and in part stops up the hole. Mr. Monkhouse, one of my midshipmen, was once in a merchant ship which sprung a leak, and made 48 inches water per hour; but by this means was brought home from Virginia to London with only her proper crew. To him I gave the direction of this, who executed it very much to my satisfaction.

  353. 14 June 1770

    Finding a Harbour for Repairs — The Endeavour River

    P.M., had a gentle breeze at South-East by East. Sent the Master with two boats, as well to sound ahead of the ship as to look out for a harbour where we could repair our defects and put the ship on a proper trim, both of which she now very much wanted. At 3 saw an opening that had the appearance of a harbour; stood off and on while the boats were examining it, who found that there was not a sufficient depth of water for the ship.

    By this time it was almost sunset, and seeing many shoals about us, we anchored in 4 fathoms about 2 miles from the shore, the main land extending from North 1/2 East to South by East 1/2 East. At 8 o’clock the pinnace, in which was one of the mates, returned on board and reported that they had found a good harbour (Cook Harbour, Endeavour River) about 2 leagues to leeward.

    In consequence of this information, we, at 6 a.m., weighed and ran down to it, first sending two boats ahead to lay upon the shoals that lay in our way; and notwithstanding this precaution, we were once in 3 fathoms with the ship. Having passed these shoals, the boats were sent to lay in the channel leading into the harbour.

    By this time it began to blow in so much that the ship would not work, having missed stays twice; and being entangled among shoals, I was afraid of being drove to leeward before the boats could place themselves, and therefore anchored in 4 fathoms about a mile from the shore. Then I made the signal for the boats to come on board, after which I went myself and buoyed the channel, which I found very narrow, and the harbour much smaller than I had been told, but very convenient for our purpose.

    At noon, latitude observed 15 degrees 26 minutes South.

    [Note: This day I restored Mr. Magra to his duty, as I did not find him guilty of the crimes laid to his charge.]

  354. 15 June 1770

    Preparing the Endeavour to Enter the Harbour

    A fresh gale at South-East and cloudy weather, attended with showers of rain. In the night, as it blow’d too fresh to break the ship loose to run into the harbour, we got down the topgallant yards, unbent the mainsail, and some of the small sails.

    Got down the foretopgallant mast, and the jib boom and spritsailyard in, intending to lighten the ship forward as much as possible, in order to lay her ashore to come at the leak.

  355. 17 June 1770

    The Endeavour Runs Ashore Entering the Harbour

    Most part strong gales at South-East, with some heavy showers of rain in the P.M. At 6 a.m., being pretty moderate, we weighed and ran into the harbour, in doing of which we ran the ship ashore twice.

    The first time she went off without much trouble, but the second time she stuck fast; this was of no consequence any farther than giving us a little trouble, and was no more than what I expected as we had the wind.

    While the ship lay fast, we got down the foreyard, foretopmast, booms, etc., overboard, and made a raft of them alongside.

  356. 18 June 1770

    The Endeavour Safely Moored in the Harbour

    Fresh gales and cloudy, with showers of rain. At 1 p.m. the ship floated, and we warped her into the harbour, and moored her alongside a steep beach on the south side; got the anchors, cables, and all the hawsers ashore.

    In the A.M. made a stage from the ship to the shore, erected two tents — one for the sick, and the other for the stores and provisions. Landed all the empty casks and part of the provisions, and sent a boat to haul the seine, which returned without success.

  357. 19 June 1770

    Unloading the Ship and Surveying the Country

    Fresh gales at South-East and cloudy weather, with frequent showers of rain. P.M., landed all the provisions and part of the stores; got the sick ashore, which amounted at this time to eight or nine, afflicted with different disorders, but none very dangerously ill.

    This afternoon I went upon one of the highest hills over the harbour, from which I had a perfect view of the inlet or river and adjacent country, which afforded but a very indifferent prospect. The low lands near the river are all overrun with mangroves, among which the salt water flows every tide, and the high land appeared to be barren and stony.

    A.M., got the four remaining guns out of the hold and mounted them on the quarterdeck; got a spare anchor and stock ashore, and the remaining part of the stores and ballast that were in the hold. Set up the forge, and set the armourer and his mate to work to make nails, etc., to repair the ship.

  358. 20 June 1770

    Clearing the Holds for Repairs

    Winds at South-East, a fresh breeze; fore and middle parts rainy, the latter fair. This day got out all the officers’ stores and the ground tier of water, having now nothing in the fore and main hold but the coals and a little stone ballast.

  359. 21 June 1770

    Locating the Leak and Clearing the Hold

    P.M., landed the powder, got out the stone ballast, wood, etc., which brought the ship’s draught of water to 8 feet 10 inches forward and 13 feet abaft. This I thought, by trimming the coals aft, would be sufficient, as I find the tides will rise and fall upon a perpendicular 8 feet at spring tides.

    But after the coals were trimmed away from over the leak, we could hear the water come gushing in a little abaft the foremast, about 3 feet from her keel. This determined me to clear the hold entirely; accordingly, very early in the morning we went to work to get out the coals, which was employment for all hands.

  360. 22 June 1770

    Repairs at the Endeavour River

    Repairs to the Endeavour were carried out at the site of present-day Cooktown, Queensland. While the crew worked on the ship, Banks and Solander used the time to gather and document hundreds of new plant specimens, greatly enriching the voyage’s scientific record.

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Winds at South-East, fair weather. At 4 p.m., having got out most of the coals, cast loose the ship’s moorings, and warped her a little higher up the harbour to a place I had pitched upon to lay her ashore to stop the leak; draught of water forward 7 feet 9 inches and abaft 13 feet 6 inches.

    At 8, being high water, hauled her bow close ashore, but kept her stern afloat, because I was afraid of neaping her (i.e., having her so far on shore that they could not heave her off at neap tide), and yet it was necessary to lay the whole of her as near the ground as possible. (The town of Cooktown now stands where the Endeavour was beached, and the exact spot is marked by a monument.)

    At 2 a.m. the tide left her, which gave us an opportunity to examine the leak, which we found to be at her floor heads, a little before the starboard fore chains. Here the rocks had made their way through four planks, quite to, and even into, the timbers, and wounded three more. The manner these planks were damaged—or cut out, as I may say—is hardly credible; scarce a splinter was to be seen, but the whole was cut away as if it had been done by the hands of man with a blunt-edged tool.

    Fortunately for us the timbers in this place were very close; otherwise it would have been impossible to have saved the ship, and even as it was it appeared very extraordinary that she made no more water than she did. A large piece of coral rock was sticking in one hole, and several pieces of the fothering, small stones, etc., had made their way in and lodged between the timbers, which had stopped the water from forcing its way in in great quantities.

    Part of the sheathing was gone from under the larboard bow, part of the false keel was gone, and the remainder in such a shattered condition that we should be much better off if it was gone also. Her forefoot and some part of her main keel were also damaged, but not materially. What damage she may have received abaft we could not see, but believe not much, as the ship makes but little water while the tide keeps below the leak forward.

    At 9 the carpenters went to work upon the ship, while the armourers were busy making bolts, nails, etc.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), June 22, 1770:

    “At two o’clock in the morning of the 22d, the tide left her, and gave us an opportunity to examine the leak, which we found to be at her floor heads, a little before the starboard fore-chains. In this place the rocks had made their way through four planks, and even into the timbers; three more planks were much damaged, and the appearance of these breaches was very extraordinary: there was not a splinter to be seen, but all was as smooth, as if the whole had been cut away by an instrument: the timbers in this place were happily very close, and if they had not, it would have been absolutely impossible to have saved the ship.

    But after all, her preservation depended upon a circumstance still more remarkable: in one of the holes, which was big enough to have sunk us, if we had had eight pumps instead of four, and been able to keep them incessantly going, was in great measure plugged up by a fragment of the rock, which, after having made the wound, was left sticking in it; so that the water which at first had gained upon our pumps, was what came in at the interstices, between the stone and the edges of the hole that received it. We found also several pieces of the fothering, which had made their way between the timbers, and in a great measure stopped those parts of the leak which the stone had left open.

    Upon further examination, we found that, besides the leak, considerable damage had been done to the bottom; great part of the sheathing was gone from under the larboard bow; a considerable. part of the false keel was also wanting, and these indeed we had seen swim away in fragments from the vessel, while she lay beating against the rock: the remainder of it was in so shattered a condition that it had better have been gone, and the fore foot and main keel were also damaged, but not so as to produce any immediate danger: what damage she might have received abaft could not yet be exactly known, but we had reason to think it was not much, as but little water made its way into her bottom, while the tide kept below the leak which has already been described.

    By nine o’clock in the morning the carpenters got to work upon her, while the smiths were busy in making bolts and nails. In the mean time, some of the people were sent on the other side of the water to shoot pigeons for the sick, who at their return reported that they had seen an animal as large as a greyhound, of a slender make, a mouse colour, and extremely swift; they discovered also many Indian houses, and a fine stream of fresh water.”

    Banks’s Journal, June 22, 1770:

    “In the morn I saw her leak which was very large: in the middle was a hole large enough to have sunk a ship with twice our pumps but here providence had most visibly workd in our favour, for it was in great measure pluggd up by a stone which was as big as a mans fist: round the Edges of this stone had all the water come in which had so near overcome us, and here we found the wool and oakum or fothering which had releivd us in so unexpected a manner. The effects of the Coral rock upon her bottom is dificult to describe but more to beleive; it had cut through her plank and deep into one of her timbers, smoothing the gashes still before it so that the whole might easily be imagind to be cut with an axe. Myself employd all day in laying in Plants. The People who were sent to the other side of the water in order to shoot Pigeons saw an animal as large as a grey hound, of a mouse coulour and very swift; they also saw many Indian houses and a brook of fresh water.”

     

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  361. 23 June 1770

    Repairing the Hull and First Sighting of the Kangaroo

    Winds South-Easterly, a fresh gale and fair weather. Carpenters employed shifting the damaged planks as long as the tide would permit them to work. At low water P.M. we examined the ship’s bottom under the starboard side, she being dry as far aft as the after-part of the fore chains; we could not find that she had received any other damage on this side but what has been mentioned.

    In the morning I sent three men into the country to shoot pigeons, as some of these birds had been seen flying about; in the evening they returned with about half a dozen. One of the men saw an animal something less than a greyhound; it was of a mouse colour, very slender made, and swift of foot. (Kangaroo.)

    A.M., I sent a boat to haul the seine, who returned at noon, having made three hauls and caught only three fish; and yet we see them in plenty jumping about the harbour, but can find no method of catching them.

  362. 24 June 1770

    Repairs Continue and the First Close Sightings of the Kangaroo

    Winds and weather as yesterday. P.M., the carpenters finished the starboard side, and at 9 heeled the ship the other way, and hauled her off about 2 feet for fear of neaping. In the A.M. they went to work repairing the sheathing under the larboard bow, where we found two planks cut about half through.

    Early in the morning I sent a party of men into the country under the direction of Lieutenant Gore to seek for refreshments; they returned about noon with a few palm cabbages and a bunch or two of wild plantains. These last were much smaller than any I had ever seen, and the pulp full of small stones; otherwise they were well tasted.

    I saw myself this morning, a little way from the ship, one of the animals before spoken of. It was of a light mouse colour and the full size of a greyhound, and shaped in every respect like one, with a long tail, which it carried like a greyhound. In short, I should have taken it for a wild dog but for its walking or running, in which it jumped like a hare or deer.

    Another of them was seen today by some of our people, who saw the first; they described them as having very small legs, and the print of the feet like that of a goat. But this I could not see myself because the ground the one I saw was upon was too hard, and the length of the grass hindered my seeing its legs. (These kangaroos were the first seen by Europeans. The name was obtained from the natives by Mr. Banks.)

  363. 25 June 1770

    Inspection of the Ship’s Bottom

    At low water in the afternoon, while the carpenters were busy repairing the sheathing and plank under the larboard bow, I got people to go under the ship’s bottom to examine all her larboard side, she only being dry forward but abaft having nine feet of water. They found part of the sheathing off abreast of the mainmast about her floor heads and a part of one plank slightly damaged. Three people went down, including the master, who was positive that she had received no material injury besides the loss of the sheathing. This alone, however, may let the worm into her bottom, which could prove of bad consequence.

    We must run all risk, for I know of no method to remedy this but by heaving her down, which would be a work of immense labour and time, if not impracticable in our present situation. The carpenters continued hard at work under her bottom until put off by the tide in the evening, and the morning tide did not ebb far enough to permit them to work upon her, for here we have only one tolerable low and high tide in twenty-four hours. In the morning a party of men were employed ashore filling water, while others were engaged overhauling the rigging.

  364. 26 June 1770

    Efforts to Float the Ship Unsuccessful

    Fair weather, a south-east wind, and a fresh gale. At low water in the afternoon, the carpenters finished under the larboard bow and every other place the tide would permit them to come at. We lashed some casks under the ship’s bows to help float her and at high water in the night attempted to heave her off, but could not, she not being afloat partly owing to some of the casks not holding that were lashed under her.

    In the morning we were employed getting more casks ready for the same purpose, but I am much afraid that we shall not be able to float her now the tides are taking off.

  365. 27 June 1770

    Failed Attempts to Float the Ship

    A fresh breeze of wind at south-east and cloudy weather. In the afternoon, we lashed thirty-eight empty butts under the ship’s bottom in order to float her off, but this proved ineffectual, and we therefore gave over all hopes of getting her off until the next spring tides. At daylight we shifted a considerable weight of sundry articles from aft forward to ease the ship.

    The armourer was at work at the forge repairing ironwork, the carpenters were caulking and stocking one of the spare anchors, and the seamen were employed filling water and overhauling the rigging. I went in the pinnace up the harbour and made several hauls with the seine, but caught only between twenty and thirty pounds of fish, which were given to the sick and such as were weak and ailing.

  366. 28 June 1770

    Routine Work Continues

    Fresh breezes and cloudy weather. All hands employed as yesterday.

  367. 29 June 1770

    Explorations Inland and Astronomical Observations

    Wind and weather as yesterday, and the employment of the people the same. Lieutenant Gore went four or five miles into the country, where he met with nothing remarkable. He saw the footsteps of men and of three or four kinds of wild beasts, but neither man nor beast. Some of our people on the north side of the river found a place where the natives had lately been, as their fires were still burning, but they saw no one, nor have we seen any since arriving in port.

    In these excursions we found some wild yams or cocos growing in swampy ground. The tops made good greens and ate exceedingly well when boiled, but the roots were so bad that few besides myself could eat them. This night Mr. Green and I observed an emersion of Jupiter’s first satellite at 2 hours 58 minutes 53 seconds a.m. The same emersion happened at Greenwich at 5 hours 17 minutes 43 seconds a.m. on the 30th, a difference of 14 hours 18 minutes 50 seconds, equal to 214° 42′ 30″ of longitude west of Greenwich. The latitude here is 15° 26′ south. In the morning I sent some hands in a boat up the river to haul the seine, while the rest were employed about the rigging and other duties.

  368. 30 June 1770

    Surveying the Coast and Discovering the Shoals

    Moderate breezes at south-east and clear, serene weather. In the afternoon, the boat returned from hauling the seine, having caught as much fish as came to a pound and a half per man. In the morning, I sent her again to haul the seine, and some hands to gather greens, while others were employed about the rigging and other tasks. I also sent some of the young gentlemen to take a plan of the harbour and went myself upon the hill near the south point to take a view of the sea.

    At this time it was low water, and I saw what gave me no small uneasiness—a number of sandbanks and shoals lying all along the coast. The innermost lay about three or four miles from the shore, and the outermost extended off to sea as far as I could see without my glass, some just appearing above water. The only hope I have of getting clear of them is to the northward, where there seems to be a passage, for as the wind blows constantly from the south-east, it will be difficult, if not impractical, to return to the southward.

  369. 1 July 1770

    Fishing and a Day of Rest

    Gentle breezes at south-east and cloudy weather, with some gentle showers in the morning. In the afternoon, the people returned from hauling the seine, having caught as much fish as came to two and a half pounds per man, no one on board having more than another. The few greens we obtained I caused to be boiled among the pease, which made a very good mess and, together with the fish, was a great refreshment to the people.

    In the morning, a party of men, one from each mess, went again a-fishing, and all the rest I gave leave to go into the country, knowing there was no danger from the natives. At noon, the thermometer in the shade rose to 87°, two or three degrees higher than it has been on any day before in this place.

  370. 2 July 1770

    Sounding for a Northern Channel

    Weather the same as yesterday. In the afternoon, the fishing party caught as much fish as came to two pounds per man. Those who went into the country met with nothing new. Early in the morning, I sent the master in the pinnace out of the harbour to sound about the shoals in the offing and to look for a channel to the northward.

    At this time, we had a breeze of wind from the land, which continued until about nine. I mention this as it is the first land breeze we have had since being in this river. At low water, we lashed empty casks under the ship’s bows, in hopes of floating her at the next high water, and sent some hands fishing while others were employed refitting the ship.

  371. 3 July 1770

    Master Reports a Passage Through the Shoals

    Winds at south-east, with a gentle breeze through the fore and middle parts of the day, and a fresh gale thereafter. In the evening, the fishing party returned, having caught as much fish as came to two pounds per man. At high water we attempted to heave the ship off, but did not succeed.

    At noon, the master returned and reported that he had found a passage out to sea between the shoals, which lies east-north-east or east by north from the river mouth. He found the shoals consisted of coral rocks and landed upon one that dries at low water, where he discovered very large cockles and various other shellfish, bringing a quantity back with him. He told me he was five leagues out at sea, having at that distance twenty-one fathoms of water, and judged himself beyond all the shoals, which I very much doubted.

    Afterward, he came inshore and stood to the northward, where he encountered many shoals lying a short distance from the shore. About nine in the evening, he landed in a bay about three leagues north of this place, where he disturbed some of the natives, who fled upon his approach, leaving behind some fresh sea eggs and a fire still burning, though no huts were near. Although these shoals lie within sight of the coast and abound in shellfish and small fish easily caught at low water, the natives never visit them, for if they did, we would have seen their large shells among the ashes of their fires. I suppose the reason is that they have no boats fit to venture so far out to sea.

  372. 4 July 1770

    Ship Floated and Prepared for Repairs

    Strong gales at south-east and fair weather. In the afternoon, the fishing party returned with their usual success, and at high water we hove the ship afloat. In the morning, we were employed trimming her upon an even keel, intending to lay her ashore once more to come at her bottom under the larboard main chains.

  373. 5 July 1770

    Ship Laid Ashore for Further Work

    Strong breezes at south-east and fair weather. In the afternoon, we warped the ship over and at high water laid her ashore on the sandbank on the south side of the river. I was unwilling to lay her broadside to the shore as before, the ground there lying too steep, and she has already received some damage from lying in that position during the last neap tides, as she still continues to make water.

  374. 6 July 1770

    Damage Inspection and Preparations to Refit

    Ditto weather, strong breezes and fair. At low water in the afternoon we had hardly four feet of water under the ship, yet could not repair the sheathing that was beaten off, as the place remained under water. One of the carpenter’s crew, a man I could trust, went down and examined it, finding three streaks of sheathing gone about seven or eight feet in length, and the main plank a little rubbed. This confirmed the earlier report of the master and others who had been under her bottom.

    The carpenter, whom I regard as a skilful and sound judge, was of opinion that this damage was of little consequence. As I found it difficult, if not impractical, to get under her bottom to repair it, I resolved to spend no more time on it. Accordingly, at high water we hove her off and moored her alongside the beach where the stores lay. In the morning we got everything ready for taking them aboard and stowed eight tuns of water in the ground tier of the after hold. Mr. Banks and Lieutenant Gore, with three men, went up the harbour in a small boat, intending to stay two or three days to try to kill some of the animals we have seen in this place.

  375. 7 July 1770

    Refitting and Maintenance Work

    Fresh breezes at south-east and fair weather. Employed getting on board coals, ballast, and other stores, and caulking the ship—a task that could not be done while she lay aground. The armourer and his mate continue at the forge, making and repairing various iron fittings.

  376. 8 July 1770

    Soundings and Fresh Provisions

    Gentle breeze at south-east and clear weather. Early in the morning I sent the master in a boat out to sea to sound again about the shoals, as the account he had previously given of the channel was by no means satisfactory. Some hands were sent to haul the seine and caught nearly eighty pounds of fish, while the rest of the people were given leave to go into the country.

  377. 9 July 1770

    Turtle Caught and Crew Feast

    The same south-east winds continued through the day, but it was calm at night. In the afternoon Mr. Gore and Mr. Banks returned, having gone three or four leagues inland without finding any notable variation in the soil or produce. In the evening the master came back after sailing several leagues out to sea; he reported seeing shoals beyond him and believed there was no way to get out to sea that way.

    On his return he touched upon one of the same shoals as before and saw many turtles, three of which he caught, weighing together 791 pounds. This success prompted me to send him out again in the morning with proper gear for striking them, as he had before only a boat hook. Carpenters, smiths, and coopers were at their respective employments, while the seamen worked on loading stones and ballast. Today all hands feasted upon turtle for the first time since leaving the Society Islands eleven months ago.

  378. 10 July 1770

    First Friendly Contact with the Natives

    Winds and weather the same as yesterday. Employed hoisting on board and stowing away the ground tier of water. In the afternoon, seven or eight natives were seen on the south side of the river, and two of them came down to the sandy point opposite the ship; but as soon as I put off in a boat to speak with them, they ran away as fast as they could.

    At eleven, Mr. Banks returned in his small boat from sea with Mr. Molineux, the master, and brought poor news of the turtle catchers, who had caught none and were unlikely to do so; yet the master was obstinate and refused to return, which obliged me to send Mr. Gore in the yawl this morning to order them in unless they could be employed to advantage.

    In the morning, four natives came down to the sandy point on the north side of the harbour, bringing a small wooden canoe with outriggers and appearing to strike fish. Two of them came close enough to the ship to take what we threw to them, then brought the others over and came alongside again, accepting more trifles. Soon after, they landed close to the ship, laying down their arms at Tupia’s persuasion, and sat with him. We gave them presents and stayed until dinner, when we signaled for them to come eat with us, which they declined. They were small, slender men, about five and a half feet tall, their skin the colour of wood soot, hair black and cropped short. Some had red paint upon their bodies, and one had white streaks across his lip and breast, which he called “Carbanda.” Their voices were soft and musical, and though they easily repeated our words, neither we nor Tupia could understand their language.

  379. 11 July 1770

    Return of the Boats and Visit from the Natives

    Gentle land and sea breezes. Employed airing the bread, stowing away water and stores. During the night the master and Mr. Gore returned with the longboat, bringing one turtle and a few shellfish; the yawl was left upon the shoal with six men to continue striking for turtle.

    In the morning, four natives paid us another short visit—three of them had been with us the previous day, and the fourth was a stranger. One of them had a hole through the bridge of his nose, in which he stuck a piece of bone as thick as my finger. On examining them all, we found that each had similar holes, as well as holes in their ears without ornaments. They wore bracelets made of hair or small cord, and one man had tied part of an old shirt I had given him around his head as a kind of fillet.

  380. 12 July 1770

    More Turtle Caught and Visit from the Natives

    Winds and weather as yesterday, and the people employed in the same duties. At two in the morning the yawl came aboard with three turtle and a large skate. As there seemed a good chance of success in this fishery, I sent her out again after breakfast.

    Around this time five of the natives came over and stayed with us all the forenoon. In total there were seven—five men, one woman, and a boy. The woman and boy remained on the opposite side of the river about two hundred yards from us, and through our glasses we could clearly see that the woman was entirely naked, even in those parts that modesty might have been expected to conceal.

  381. 13 July 1770

    Calm Weather and More Provisions

    Gentle breezes from the south-east during the day, and calm or light airs from the land at night. Employed in taking on board water and stores. At noon the yawl returned with one turtle and a large stingray.

  382. 14 July 1770

    Completion of Watering and Discovery of a New Animal

    Gentle breezes at south-east and hazy weather. In the afternoon completed taking on water, got all the bread and part of the stores aboard, and in the evening sent the turtle party out again. In the morning employed in getting on board stone ballast and airing the spare sails.

    Mr. Gore, while in the country, shot one of the animals previously mentioned. It was a small one, weighing only twenty-eight pounds clear of the entrails. Its head, neck, and shoulders were very small in proportion to the rest of the body. It was hare-lipped, with a head and ears most like those of a hare, and a tail nearly as long as its body, thick near the rump and tapering toward the end. The forelegs were eight inches long and the hind twenty-two.

    Its mode of progression was by hopping seven or eight feet at a time upon its hind legs only, using the forelegs solely for scratching in the ground. The skin was covered with a short, hairy fur of a dark mouse or grey colour. It bore no resemblance to any European animal I had ever seen, though it was said to be much like the jerboa, except in size, the jerboa being no larger than a common rat.

  383. 15 July 1770

    Light Work and Fishing Success

    Gentle breezes at south-east and east. In the afternoon got on board the spare sails and several other articles. In the morning, as the people were not working on the ship, one of the petty officers asked to go out to catch turtles. I allowed him the pinnace for that purpose and sent the longboat to haul the seine, which caught about sixty fish.

  384. 16 July 1770

    Exploring the Inland Country

    Gentle breezes at east-north-east during the day, with light airs and calm at night. In the evening the yawl returned with four turtles and a large stingray, then soon went out again, but the pinnace did not return as expected. In the morning we were employed getting the cables on board, while I went up one of the high hills on the north side of the river. From there I had an extensive view of the inland country, which consisted of hills, valleys, and large plains, pleasantly varied with woods and open lawns.

  385. 17 July 1770

    Astronomical Observations and More Turtles

    A fresh breeze from the south-east. The people were employed as yesterday, setting up the rigging. In the evening the pinnace returned with three turtles, two of which the yawl had caught and sent in. At 7 hours 41 minutes 17 seconds p.m., I observed the first satellite of Jupiter to emerge. The same emersion happened at Greenwich at 10 hours 00 minutes 52 seconds a.m., the difference being 14 hours 19 minutes 35 seconds, equal to 214 degrees 53 minutes 45 seconds of longitude. The observation made on the 29th of last month gave 214 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds; the mean of the two is 214 degrees 48 minutes 7½ seconds, which is the longitude of this place west of Greenwich.

  386. 18 July 1770

    Friendly Natives and a Melancholy Prospect

    A gentle breeze from the east-south-east. In the afternoon I sent the Master and one of the Mates in the pinnace to the northward to look for a channel clear of the shoal. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and I went into the woods on the opposite side of the water, where we met five of the natives. Though strangers to us, they showed no signs of fear, and two wore necklaces made of shells, which they valued greatly and would not part with. In the evening the yawl came in with three turtles, and early in the morning she went out again. Around eight we were visited by several natives, who had now grown more familiar. Soon after, Mr. Banks and I crossed to the north side of the river and travelled six or eight miles along the shore to the northward, where we climbed a high hill. From there we had an extensive view of the sea coast, which gave us a melancholy prospect, for in every direction the sea was filled with shoals as far as the eye could reach. We returned to the ship without further incident and found several natives on board. At this time we had twelve turtles on deck, which excited more of their curiosity than anything else in the ship.

  387. 19 July 1770

    Conflict and Reconciliation with the Natives

    Thursday, 19th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. Employ’d getting everything in readyness for Sea. A.M., we were Visited by 10 or 11 of the Natives; the most of them came from the other side of the Harbour, where we saw 6 or 7 more, the most of them Women, and, like the men, quite naked. Those that came on board were very desirous of having some of our Turtles, and took the liberty to haul 2 of them to the Gangway to put over the side; being disappointed in this, they grew a little Troublesome, and were for throwing every thing overboard they could lay their hands upon.

    As we had no Victuals dress’d at this time, I offer’d them some bread to Eat, which they rejected with Scorn, as I believe they would have done anything else excepting Turtle;* (* No doubt, in the native view, the turtle belonged to them, and they considered the strangers had annexed their property.) Soon after this they all went ashore, Mr. Banks, myself, and 5 or 6 of our people being their at same time. Immediately upon their Landing one of them took a Handful of dry grass and lighted it at a fire we had ashore, and before we well know’d what he was going about he made a larger Circuit round about us, and set fire to the grass in his way, and in an instant the whole place was in flames.

    Luckily at this time we had hardly anything ashore, besides the Forge and a Sow with a litter of young Pigs, one of which was scorched to Death in the fire. As soon as they had done this they all went to a place where some of our people were washing, and where all our nets and a good deal of linnen were laid out to dry; here with the greatest obstinacy they again set fire to the grass, which I and some others who were present could not prevent, until I was obliged to fire a Musquet load with small Shott at one of the Ring leaders, which sent them off.

    As we were apprised of this last Attempt of theirs we got the fire out before it got head, but the first spread like wild fire in the Woods and grass. Notwithstanding my firing, in which one must have been a little hurt, because we saw a few drops of blood on some of the linnen he had gone over, they did not go far from us; for we soon after heard their Voices in the woods, upon which Mr. Banks and I and 3 or 4 more went to look for them, and very soon met them coming toward us.

    As they had each 4 or 5 Darts, and not knowing their intention, we seized upon 6 or 7 of the first darts we met with. This alarm’d them so much that they all made off, and we follow’d them for near 1/2 a Mile, and then set down and called to them, and they stop’d also; after some little unintelligible conversation had passed they laid down their darts, and came to us in a very friendly manner. We now return’d the Darts we had taken from them, which reconcil’d everything. There were 4 Strangers among them that we had not seen before, and these were interduced to us by name by the others; the Man which we supposed to have been Struck with small Shott was gone off, but he could not be much hurt as he was at a great distance when I fir’d. They all came along with us abreast of the Ship, where they stay’d a short time, and then went away, and soon after set the woods on fire about a Mile and a half or two Miles from us.

  388. 20 July 1770

    Preparing to Leave the Harbour

    Friday, 20th. Fresh breezes at South-East and Cloudy weather. P.M., got everything on board the Ship, new berth’d her, and let her swing with the tide. In the night the Master return’d with the pinnace, and reported that there was no safe Passage for the Ship to the Northward at low water. A.M., I went and Sounded and buoy’d the Bar, being now ready to put to sea the first opportunity.

  389. 21 July 1770

    Strong Winds and Ship Maintenance

    Saturday, 21st. Strong breezes at South-East and Cloudy weather. P.M., sent a Boat to haul the Sean, which return’d with as much fish as came to 1 3/4 pounds per Man; the Yawl return’d with only one Turtle, which was caught in the Net, for it blew too hard for the Boat to strike any. In the morning I sent her out again, but she was obliged to return, not being able to get to Windward. The Carpenters employ’d in repairing the Boats and overhauling the Pumps, and as the Wind would not permit us to sail, I sent the Boatswain with some hands ashore to make rope, and a petty Officer with 2 Men to gather Greens for the Ship’s Company.

  390. 22 July 1770

    Discovery of a Native Turtle Harpoon

    Sunday, 22nd. Fresh breezes at South-East and East-South-East. Employ’d as Yesterday. A.M., the weather would not permit us to Sail; sent the Turtlers out again. In opening of one to-day we found sticking thro’ both Shoulder bones a wood Harpoon, or Turtle Peg, 15 Inches long, bearded at the end, such as we have seen among the Natives; this proves to a Demonstration that they strike Turtle, I suppose at the Time they come ashore to lay their Eggs, for they certainly have no boat fit to do this at Sea, or that will carry a Turtle, and this Harpoon must have been a good while in, as the wound was quite heal’d up.

  391. 23 July 1770

    Peaceful Encounter with the Natives

    Monday, 23rd. Fresh breezes in the South-East quarter, which so long as it continues will confine us in Port. Yesterday, A.M., I sent some people in the Country to gather greens, one of which stragled from the rest, and met with 4 of the Natives by a fire, on which they were broiling a Fowl, and the hind leg of one of the Animals before spoke of. He had the presence of mind not to run from them (being unarm’d), least they should pursue him, but went and set down by them; and after he had set a little while, and they had felt his hands and other parts of his body, they suffer’d him to go away without offering the least insult, and perceiving that he did not go right for the Ship they directed him which way to go.

  392. 24 July 1770

    Continued Work in Port

    Tuesday, 24th. Winds and weather continues. The Seamen employ’d making ropes, Caulking the Ship, Fishing, etc.

  393. 25 July 1770

    Unsuccessful Turtle and Fish Catch

    Wednesday, 25th. Fresh gales at South-East and fair weather. In the evening the Yawl came in, having not been able to Strike one Turtle on account of the blowing weather, nor can we catch much fish with the Sean in the Harbour.

  394. 26 July 1770

    Gathering Provisions and Refreshments

    Thursday, 26th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. Such people as can be spared from the necessary Dutys of the Ship are employ’d fishing and gathering greens and other refreshments.

  395. 27 July 1770

    Successful Hunt and Heavy Winds

    Friday, 27th. Very fresh Gales at South-East by South and fair weather. A.M., caught as much fish as served 3/4 pounds a man, and Mr. Gore shott one of the Animals before spoke of, which weighed 80 pounds and 54 pounds, exclusive of the entrails, Skin, and head; this was as large as the most we have seen.

  396. 28 July 1770

    Calm Weather and Ship Repairs Completed

    Saturday, 28th. Winds and weather as above, without the least Variation the whole of the 24 hours. The Carpenters finish’d caulking the Ship.

  397. 29 July 1770

    Failed Attempt to Leave Port

    Sunday, 29th. Winds at South-East, a fresh breeze until 5 a.m., at which time it fell calm, and soon after had a light breeze from the land. Upon this I sent a Boat to see what water was upon the bar (it being 2 hours Ebb), and hove up the Anchor in order to put to Sea; but upon the return of the Boat came too again, as there were only 13 feet water on the Bar, which was 6 Inches less water than what the Ship Draw’d. After this I sent the Yawl to look for Turtle, as those we had got before were nearly all expended. About 8 the Sea breeze set in again, which put an end to our Sailing this day; after which I sent the Pinnace to haul the Sean; she return’d with only 20 pounds of Fish.

  398. 30 July 1770

    Rain and Persistent South-East Winds

    Monday, 30th. Winds at South-East, a fresh Gale and fair weather in the P.M., the remainder Hazey, with rain, but the winds, tho more moderate, keept in the South-East quarter.

  399. 31 July 1770

    Strong Winds Prevent Departure

    Tuesday, 31st. Fresh Gales at South-East, and hazey with rain all P.M. and most part of the Night. At 2 a.m. I had thoughts of trying to Warp the Ship out of the Harbour, but upon my going first out in a Boat I found it blow too fresh for such an Attempt.

  400. 1 August 1770

    Strong Gales and Decayed Pumps

    Wednesday, 1st August. Strong Gales from the South-East, with Squalls attended with Rain. P.M., the Yawl came in with 2 Rays, which together weighed 265 pounds; it blow’d too hard all the time they were out for striking Turtle. Carpenters employ’d overhauling the Pumps, all of which we find in a state of decay; and this the Carpenter says is owing to the Sap having been left in, which in time has decay’d the sound wood. One of them is quite useless, and was so rotten when hoisted up as to drop to peices. However, I cannot complain of a Leaky Ship, for the most water She makes is not quite an Inch an Hour.

  401. 2 August 1770

    Stormy Weather and Poor Fishing

    Thursday, 2nd. Winds and weather as yesterday, or rather more Stormy; we have now no Success in the Sein fishing, hardly getting above 20 or 30 pounds a day.

  402. 3 August 1770

    Unsuccessful Attempt to Leave the River

    Friday, 3rd. Strong breezes, and hazey until 6 a.m., when it moderated, and we unmoor’d, hove up the Anchor, and began to Warp out; but the Ship tailing upon the Sand on the North side of the River, the Tide of Ebb making out, and a fresh breeze setting in, we were obliged to desist and moor the Ship again just within the Barr.

  403. 4 August 1770

    Finally Leaving the Harbour

    Saturday, 4th. In the P.M., having pretty moderate weather, I order’d the Coasting Anchor and Cable to be laid without the barr, to be ready to warp out by, that we might not loose the least opportunity that might Offer; for laying in Port spends time to no purpose, consumes our Provisions, of which we are very Short in many Articles, and we have yet a long Passage to make to the East Indies through an unknown and perhaps dangerous Sea; these Circumstances consider’d, make me very Anxious of getting to Sea. The wind continued moderate all night, and at 5 a.m. it fell calm; this gave us an opportunity to warp out. About 7 we got under sail, having a light Air from the Land, which soon died away, and was Succeeded by the Sea breezes from South-East by South, with which we stood off to Sea East by North, having the Pinnace ahead sounding.

    The Yawl I sent to the Turtle bank to take up the Net that was left there; but as the wind freshen’d we got out before her, and a little After Noon Anchor’d in 15 fathoms water, Sandy bottom, for I did not think it safe to run in among the Shoals until I had well view’d them at low Water from the Mast head, that I might be better Able to Judge which way to Steer; for as yet I had not resolved whether I should beat back to the Southward round all the Shoals, or seek a Passage to the Eastward or Northward, all of which appeared to be equally difficult and dangerous. When at Anchor the Harbour sail’d from bore South 70 degrees West, distant 4 or 5 Leagues; the Northermost point of the Main land we have in sight, which I named Cape Bedford* (* Probably after John, 4th Duke, who had been First Lord of the Admiralty, 1744 to 1747.) (Latitude 15 degrees 17 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 45 minutes West), bore North 20 degrees West, distant 3 1/2 Leagues; but we could see land to the North-East of this Cape, which made like 2 high Islands;* (* Direction Islands.) the Turtle banks bore East, distant one Mile. Latitude by Observation 15 degrees 23 minutes South; our depth of Water, in standing off from the land, was from 3 1/2 to 15 fathoms.

  404. 5 August 1770

    Preparations and Stormy Conditions

    Sunday, 5th. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South-East and Clear weather. As I did not intend to weigh until the morning I sent all the Boats to the Reef to get what Turtle and Shell fish they could. At low water from the Mast head I took a view of the Shoals, and could see several laying a long way without this one, a part of several of them appearing above water; but as it appear’d pretty clear of Shoals to the North-East of the Turtle Reef, I came to a Resolution to stretch out that way close upon a wind, because if we found no Passage we could always return back the way we went.

    In the Evening the Boats return’d with one Turtle, a sting ray, and as many large Clams as came to 1 1/2 pounds a Man; in each of these Clams were about 20 pounds of Meat; added to this we Caught in the night several Sharks. Early in the morning I sent the Pinnace and Yawl again to the Reef, as I did not intend to weigh until half Ebb, at which time the Shoals began to appear. Before 8 it came on to blow, and I made the Signal for the Boats to come on Board, which they did, and brought with them one Turtle. We afterwards began to heave, but the wind Freshening obliged us to bear away* (* To veer cable, i.e., pay out more cable, in order to hold the ship with the freshening wind.) again and lay fast.

  405. 6 August 1770

    Navigating the Shoals and Anchoring Safely

    Monday, 6th. Winds at South-East. At 2 o’Clock p.m. it fell pretty Moderate, and we got under sail, and stood out upon a wind North-East by East, leaving the Turtle Reef to windward, having the Pinnace ahead sounding. We had not stood out long before we discovered shoals ahead and on both bows. At half past 4 o’Clock, having run off 8 Miles, the Pinnace made the Signal for Shoal water in a place where we little Expected it; upon this we Tack’d and Stood on and off while the Pinnace stretched farther to the Eastward, but as night was approaching I thought it safest to Anchor, which we accordingly did in 20 fathoms water, a Muddy bottom.

    Endeavour River bore South 52 degrees West; Cape Bedford West by North 1/2 North, distant 5 Leagues; the Northermost land in sight, which made like an Island, North; and a Shoal, a small, sandy part of which appear’d above water, North-East, distance 2 or 3 Miles. In standing off from this Turtle Reef to this place our soundings were from 14 to 20 fathoms, but where the Pinnace was, about a Mile farther to the East-North-East, were no more than 4 or 5 feet of water, rocky ground; and yet this did not appear to us in the Ship. In the morning we had a strong Gale from the South-East, that, instead of weighing as we intended, we were obliged to bear away more Cable, and to Strike Top Gallant yards.

  406. 7 August 1770

    Surrounded by Shoals and Battling Strong Gales

    Tuesday, 7th. Strong Gales at South-East, South-East by South, and South-South-East, with cloudy weather at Low water in the P.M. I and several of the Officers kept a look out at the Mast head to see for a Passage between the Shoals; but we could see nothing but breakers all the way from the South round by the East as far as North-West, extending out to Sea as far as we could see. It did not appear to be one continued Shoal, but several laying detached from each other. On the Eastermost that we could see the Sea broke very high, which made one judge it to be the outermost; for on many of those within the Sea did not break high at all, and from about 1/2 flood to 1/2 Ebb they are not to be seen, which makes the Sailing among them more dangerous, and requires great care and Circumspection, for, like all other Shoals, or Reefs of Coral Rocks, they are quite steep too.

    Altho’ the most of these Shoals consist of Coral Rocks, yet a part of some of them is sand. The Turtle Reef and some others have a small Patch of Sand generally at the North end, that is only cover’d at high water. These generally discover themselves before we come near them. Altho’ I speak of this as the Turtle Reef, yet it is not to be doubted but what there are Turtle upon the most of them as well as this one. After having well viewed our situation from the Mast Head, I saw that we were surrounded on every side with Dangers, in so much that I was quite at a loss which way to steer when the weather will permit us to get under sail, for to beat back to the South-East the way we came, as the Master would have had me done, would be an endless peice of work, as the winds blow constantly from that Quarter, and very Strong, without hardly any intermission;* (* The south-east trade wind blows home on this coast very strong from about June to October. Though the Barrier Reef prevents any great sea from getting up, the continuance of this wind is a great nuisance for a sailing ship from many points of view though from others it is an advantage.) on the other hand, if we do not find a passage to the Northward we shall have to come back at last.

    At 11 the Ship drove, and obliged us to bear away to a Cable and one third, which brought us up again; but in the morning the Gale increasing, she drove again. This made us let go the Small Bower Anchor, and bear away a whole Cable on it and 2 on the other; and even after this she still kept driving slowly, until we had got down Top gallant Masts, struck Yards and Top masts close down, and made all snug; then she rid fast, Cape Bedford bearing West-South-West, distant 3 1/2 Leagues. In this situation we had Shoals to the Eastward of us extending from the South-East by South to the North-North-West, distant from the nearest part of them about 2 Miles.

  407. 8 August 1770

    Strong Gales Prevent Raising the Masts

    Wednesday, 8th. Strong gales at South-South-East all this day, in so much that I durst not get up Yards and Topmasts.

  408. 9 August 1770

    Attempt to Heave Anchor Halted by Rough Seas

    Thursday, 9th. In the P.M., the weather being something moderate, we got up the Top masts, but keept the Lower yards down. At 6 in the morning we began to heave in the Cable, thinking to get under sail; but it blow’d so fresh, together with a head sea, that we could hardly heave the ship a head, and at last was obliged to desist.

  409. 10 August 1770

    Navigating North and Naming Cape Flattery

    Friday, 10th. Fresh Gales at South-South-East and South-East by South. P.M., the wind fell so that we got up the small Bower Anchor, and hove into a whole Cable on the Best Bower. At 3 in the morning we got up the Lower Yards, and at 7 weighed and stood in for the Land (intending to seek for a passage along Shore to the northward), having a Boat ahead sounding; depth of water as we run in from 19 to 12 fathoms. After standing in an hour we edged away for 3 Small Islands* (* Now called the Three Isles.) that lay North-North-East 1/2 East, 3 Leagues from Cape Bedford. To these Islands the Master had been in the Pinnace when the Ship was in Port. At 9 we were abreast of them, and between them and the Main, having another low Island between us and the latter, which lies West-North-West, 4 Miles from the 3 Islands. In this Channell had 14 fathoms water; the Northermost point of the Main we had in sight bore from us North-North-West 1/2 West, distant 2 Leagues.

    4 or 5 Leagues to the North-East of this head land appeared 3 high Islands,* (* The Direction Islands.) with some smaller ones near them, and the Shoals and Reefs without, as we could see, extending to the Northward as far as these Islands. We directed our Course between them and the above headland, leaving a small Island* (* The Two Isles. Cook had now got among the numerous islands and reefs which lie round Cape Flattery. There are good channels between them, but they are very confusing to a stranger. Cook’s anxiety in his situation can well be imagined, especially with his recent disaster in his mind.) to the Eastward of us, which lies North by East, 4 Miles from the 3 Islands, having all the while a boat ahead sounding. At Noon we were got between the head Land and the 3 high Islands, distant from the former 2, and from the latter 4 Leagues; our Latitude by observation was 14 degrees 51 minutes South. We now judged ourselves to be clear of all Danger, having, as we thought, a Clear, open Sea before us; but this we soon found otherwise, and occasioned my calling the Headland above mentioned Cape Flattery (Latitude 14 degrees 55 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 43 minutes West). It is a high Promontory, making in 2 Hills next the sea, and a third behind them, with low sandy land on each side; but it is better known by the 3 high Islands out at Sea, the Northermost of which is the Largest, and lies from the Cape North-North-East, distant 5 Leagues. From this Cape the Main land trends away North-West and North-West by West.

  410. 11 August 1770

    Anchoring Near Point Lookout and Planning Exploration

    Saturday, 11th. Fresh breezes at South-South-East and South-East by South, with which we steer’d along shore North-West by West until one o’Clock, when the Petty Officer at the Masthead called out that he saw land ahead, extending quite round to the Islands without, and a large reef between us and them; upon this I went to the Masthead myself. The reef I saw very plain, which was now so far to windward that we could not weather it, but what he took for Main land ahead were only small Islands, for such they appeared to me; but, before I had well got from Mast head the Master and some others went up, who all asserted that it was a Continuation of the Main land, and, to make it still more alarming, they said they saw breakers in a Manner all round us. We immediately hauld upon a wind in for the Land, and made the Signal for the Boat, which was ahead sounding, to come on board; but as she was well to leeward, we were obliged to edge away to take her up, and soon after came to an Anchor under a point of the Main in 1/4 less 5* (* The nautical manner of expressing four and three-quarters.) fathoms, about a Mile from the Shore, Cape Flattery bearing South-East, distant 3 1/2 Leagues.

    After this I landed, and went upon the point, which is pretty high, from which I had a View of the Sea Coast, which trended away North-West by West, 8 or 10 Leagues, which was as far as I could see, the weather not being very clear. I likewise saw 9 or 10 Small, Low Islands and some Shoals laying off the Coast, and some large Shoals between the Main and the 3 high Islands, without which, I was now well assured, were Islands, and not a part of the Mainland as some had taken them to be. Excepting Cape Flattery and the point I am now upon, which I have named point Lookout, the Main land next the sea to the Northward of Cape Bedford is low, and Chequer’d with white sand and green Bushes, etc., for 10 or 12 Miles inland, beyond which is high land. To the northward of Point Lookout the shore appear’d to be shoal and flat some distance off, which was no good sign of meeting with a Channell in with the land, as we have hitherto done. We saw the footsteps of people upon the sand, and smoke and fire up in the Country, and in the evening return’d on board, where I came to a resolution to visit one of the high Islands in the Offing in my Boat, as they lay at least 5 Leagues out at Sea, and seem’d to be of such a height that from the Top of one of them I hoped to see and find a Passage out to sea clear of the Shoals.

    Accordingly in the Morning I set out in the Pinnace for the Northermost and largest of the 3, accompanied by Mr. Banks. At the same time I sent the Master in the Yawl to Leeward, to sound between the Low Islands and the Main. In my way to the Island I passed over a large reef of Coral Rocks and sand, which lies about 2 Leagues from the Island; I left another to leeward, which lays about 3 Miles from the Island. [On Lizard Island, Queensland.] On the North part of this is a low, sandy Isle, with Trees upon it; on the reef we pass’d over in the Boat we saw several Turtle, and Chased one or Two, but caught none, it blowing too hard, and I had no time to spare, being otherways employ’d. I did not reach the Island until half an hour after one o’Clock in the P.M.

  411. 12 August 1770

    Discovery and Naming of Lizard Island

    Sunday, 12th, when I immediately went upon the highest hill on the Island,* (* Lizard Island.) where, to my Mortification, I discover’d a Reef of Rocks laying about 2 or 3 Leagues without the Island, extending in a line North-West and South-East, farther than I could see, on which the sea broke very high.* (* This was the outer edge of the Barrier Reefs.) This, however, gave one great hopes that they were the outermost shoals, as I did not doubt but what I should be able to get without them, for there appeared to be several breaks or Partitions in the Reef, and Deep Water between it and the Islands. I stay’d upon the Hill until near sun set, but the weather continued so Hazey all the time that I could not see above 4 or 5 Leagues round me, so that I came down much disappointed in the prospect I expected to have had, but being in hopes the morning might prove Clearer, and give me a better View of the Shoals. With this view I stay’d all night upon the Island, and at 3 in the Morning sent the Pinnace, with one of the Mates I had with me, to sound between the Island and the Reefs, and to Examine one of the breaks or Channels; and in the mean time I went again upon the Hill, where I arrived by Sun Rise, but found it much Hazier than in the Evening.

    About Noon the pinnace return’d, having been out as far as the Reef, and found from 15 to 28 fathoms water. It blow’d so hard that they durst not venture into one of the Channels, which, the Mate said, seem’d to him to be very narrow; but this did not discourage me, for I thought from the place he was at he must have seen it at disadvantage. Before I quit this Island I shall describe it. It lies, as I have before observed, about 5 Leagues from the Main; it is about 8 Miles in Circuit, and of a height sufficient to be seen 10 or 12 Leagues; it is mostly high land, very rocky and barren, except on the North-West side, where there are some sandy bays and low land, which last is covered with thin, long grass, Trees, etc., the same as upon the Main. Here is also fresh Water in 2 places; the one is a running stream, the water a little brackish where I tasted it, which was close to the sea; the other is a standing pool, close behind the sandy beach, of good, sweet water, as I daresay the other is a little way from the Sea beach.

    The only land Animals we saw here were Lizards, and these seem’d to be pretty Plenty, which occasioned my naming the Island Lizard Island. The inhabitants of the Main visit this Island at some Seasons of the Year, for we saw the Ruins of Several of their Hutts and heaps of Shells, etc. South-East, 4 or 5 Miles from this Island, lay the other 2 high Islands, which are very small compared to this; and near them lay 3 others, yet smaller and lower Islands, and several Shoals or reefs, especially to the South-East. There is, however, a clear passage from Cape Flattery to those Islands, and even quite out to the outer Reefs, leaving the above Islands to the South-East and Lizard Island to the North-West.

  412. 13 August 1770

    Decision to Leave the Coast

    Monday, 13th. At 2 P.M. I left Lizard Island in order to return to the Ship, and in my way landed upon the low sandy Isle mentioned in coming out. We found on this Island* (* Eagle Island.) a pretty number of Birds, the most of them sea Fowl, except Eagles; 2 of the Latter we shott and some of the others; we likewise saw some Turtles, but got none, for the reasons before mentioned. After leaving Eagle Isle I stood South-West direct for the Ship, sounding all the way, and had not less than 8 fathoms, nor more than 14. I had the same depth of Water between Lizard and Eagle Isle.

    After I got on board the Master inform’d me he had been down to the Islands I had directed him to go too, which he judged to lay about 3 Leagues from the Main, and had sounded the Channel between the 2, found 7 fathoms; this was near the Islands, for in with the Main he had only 9 feet 3 Miles off, but without the Islands he found 10, 12, and 14 fathoms. He found upon the islands piles of turtle shells, and some finns that were so fresh that both he and the boats’ crew eat of them. This showed that the natives must have been there lately. After well considering both what I had seen myself and the report of the Master’s, I found by experience that by keeping in with the Mainland we should be in continued danger, besides the risk we should run in being lock’d in with Shoals and reefs by not finding a passage out to Leeward.

    In case we persever’d in keeping the Shore on board an accident of this kind, or any other that might happen to the ship, would infallibly loose our passage to the East India’s this Season,* (* In November the wind changes to the North-West, which would have been a foul wind to Batavia.) and might prove the ruin of both ourselves and the Voyage, as we have now little more than 3 Months’ Provisions on board, and that at short allowance. Wherefore, after consulting with the Officers, I resolved to weigh in the morning, and Endeavour to quit the Coast altogether until such time as I found I could approach it with less danger. With this View we got under sail at daylight in the morning, and stood out North-East for the North-West end of Lizard Island, having Eagle Island to windward of us, having the pinnace ahead sounding; and here we found a good Channell, wherein we had from 9 to 14 fathoms. At Noon the North end of Lizard Island bore East-South-East, distant one Mile; Latitude observed 14 degrees 38 minutes South; depth of water 14 fathoms. We now took the pinnace in tow, knowing that there were no dangers until we got out to the Reefs.* (* From the 13th to the 19th the language used in Mr. Corner’s copy of the Journal is quite different from that of the Admiralty and the Queen’s, though the occurrences are the same. From internal evidences, it appears that Mr. Corner’s copy was at this period the first written up, and that Cook amended the phrases in the other fair copies.)

  413. 14 August 1770

    Escape Through Cook’s Passage and Leaving the Shoals

    Tuesday, 14th. Winds at South-East, a steady gale. By 2 P.M. we got out to the outermost reefs, and just fetched to Windward of one of the openings I had discover’d from the Island; we tacked and Made a short trip to the South-West, while the Master went in the pinnace to examine the Channel, who soon made the signal for the Ship to follow, which we accordingly did, and in a short time got safe out. This Channel* (* Now known as Cook’s Passage.) lies North-East 1/2 North, 3 Leagues from Lizard Island; it is about one-third of a Mile broad, and 25 or 30 fathoms deep or more. The moment we were without the breakers we had no ground with 100 fathoms of Line, and found a large Sea rowling in from the South-East. By this I was well assured we were got with out all the Shoals, which gave us no small joy, after having been intangled among Islands and Shoals, more or less, ever since the 26th of May, in which time we have sail’d above 360 Leagues by the Lead without ever having a Leadsman out of the Chains, when the ship was under sail; a Circumstance that perhaps never hapned to any ship before, and yet it was here absolutely necessary.

    I should have been very happy to have had it in my power to have keept in with the land, in order to have explor’d the Coast to the Northern extremity of the Country, which I think we were not far off, for I firmly believe this land doth not join to New Guinea. But this I hope soon either to prove or disprove, and the reasons I have before assign’d will, I presume, be thought sufficient for my leaving the Coast at this time; not but what I intend to get in with it again as soon as I can do it with safety. The passage or channel we now came out by, which I have named, —-* (* Blank in MS.) lies in the Latitude of 14 degrees 32 minutes South; it may always be found and known by the 3 high Islands within it, which I have called the Islands of Direction, because by their means a safe passage may be found even by strangers in within the Main reef, and quite into the Main.

    Lizard Island, which is the Northermost and Largest of the 3, Affords snug Anchorage under the North-West side of it, fresh water and wood for fuel; and the low Islands and Reefs which lay between it and the Main, abound with Turtle and other fish, which may be caught at all Seasons of the Year (except in such blowing weather as we have lately had). All these things considered there is, perhaps, not a better place on the whole Coast for a Ship to refresh at than this Island. I had forgot to mention in its proper place, that not only on this Island, but on Eagle Island, and on several places of the Sea beach in and about Endeavour River, we found Bamboos, Cocoa Nutts, the seeds of some few other plants, and Pummice-stones, which were not the produce of the Country. From what we have seen of it, it is reasonable to suppose that they are the produce of some lands or Islands laying in the Neighbourhood, most likely to the Eastward, and are brought hither by the Easterly trade winds. The Islands discover’d by Quiros lies in this parrallel, but how far to the Eastward it’s hard to say; for altho’ we found in most Charts his discoveries placed as far to the West as this country yet from the account of his Voyage, compared with what we ourselves have seen, we are Morally certain that he never was upon any part of this Coast.* (* The Island of Espiritu Santo, in the New Hebrides, which Quiros discovered, lies 1200 miles to the eastward, and New Caledonia, from which these objects might equally have come, is 1000 miles in the same direction.)

    As soon as we had got without the Reefs we Shortened sail, and hoisted in the pinnace and Long boat, which last we had hung alongside, and then stretched off East-North-East, close upon a wind, as I did not care to stand to the Northward until we had a whole day before us, for which reason we keept making short boards all night. The large hollow sea we have now got into acquaints us with a Circumstance we did not before know, which is that the Ship hath received more Damage than we were aware of, or could perceive when in smooth Water; for now she makes as much water as one pump will free, kept constantly at work. However this was looked upon as trifling to the Danger we had lately made an Escape from. At day light in the morning Lizard Island bore South by West, distant 10 Leagues. We now made all the sail we could, and stood away North-North-West 1/2 West, but at 9 we steer’d North-West 1/2 North, having the advantage of a Fresh Gale at South-East; at Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 13 degrees 46 minutes South, the Lizard Island bore South 15 degrees East, distant 58 Miles, but we had no land in sight.

  414. 15 August 1770

    Searching for a Passage Toward New Guinea

    Wednesday, 15th. Fresh Trade at South-East and Clear weather. At 6 in the evening shortned sail and brought too, with her head to the North-East. By this time we had run near 12 Leagues upon a North-West 1/2 North Course since Noon. At 4 a.m. wore and lay her head to the South-West, and at 6 made all Sail, and steer’d West, in order to make the land, being fearful of over shooting the passage, supposing there to be one, between this land and New Guinea. By noon we had run 10 Leagues upon this Course, but saw no land. Our Latitude by observation was 13 degrees 2 minutes South, Longitude 216 degrees 00 minutes West, which was 1 degree 23 minutes to the West of Lizard Island.

  415. 16 August 1770

    A Narrow Escape from the Coral Reef

    Thursday, 16th. Moderate breezes at East-South-East and fair weather. A little after Noon saw the Land from the Mast head bearing West-South-West, making high; at 2 saw more land to the North-West of the former, making in hills like Islands; but we took it to be a Continuation of the Main land. An hour after this we saw a reef, between us and the land, extending away to the Southward, and, as we thought, terminated here to the Northward abreast of us; but this was only on op’ning, for soon after we saw it extend away to the Northward as far as we could distinguish anything. Upon this we hauld close upon a Wind, which was now at East-South-East, with all the sail we could set. We had hardly trimm’d our sails before the wind came to East by North, which made our weathering the Reef very doubtful, the Northern point of which in sight at sun set still bore from us North by West, distant about 2 Leagues.

    However, this being the best Tack to Clear it, we keept standing to the Northward, keeping a good look out until 12 at night, when, fearing to run too far upon one Course, we tack’d and stood to the southward, having run 6 Leagues North or North by East since sun set; we had not stood above 2 Miles to the South-South-East before it fell quite Calm. We both sounded now and several times before, but had not bottom with 140 fathoms of line.* (* The description which follows, of the situation of the ship, and the occurrences until she was safely anchored inside the Barrier Reef, is from the Admiralty copy, as it is much fuller than that in Mr. Corner’s.) A little after 4 o’clock the roaring of the surf was plainly heard, and at daybreak the Vast foaming breakers were too plainly to be seen not a mile from us, towards which we found the ship was carried by the Waves surprisingly fast. We had at this time not an air of Wind, and the depth of water was unfathomable, so that there was not a possibility of anchoring. In this distressed Situation we had nothing but Providence and the small Assistance the Boats could give us to trust to; the Pinnace was under repair, and could not immediately be hoisted out. The Yawl was put in the Water, and the Longboat hoisted out, and both sent ahead to tow, which, together with the help of our sweeps abaft, got the Ship’s head round to the Northward, which seemed to be the best way to keep her off the Reef, or at least to delay time.

    Before this was effected it was 6 o’clock, and we were not above 80 or 100 yards from the breakers. The same sea that washed the side of the ship rose in a breaker prodidgiously high the very next time it did rise, so that between us and destruction was only a dismal Valley, the breadth of one wave, and even now no ground could be felt with 120 fathom. The Pinnace was by this time patched up, and hoisted out and sent ahead to Tow. Still we had hardly any hopes of saving the ship, and full as little our lives, as we were full 10 Leagues from the nearest Land, and the boats not sufficient to carry the whole of us; yet in this Truly Terrible Situation not one man ceased to do his utmost, and that with as much Calmness as if no danger had been near. All the dangers we had escaped were little in comparison of being thrown upon this reef, where the Ship must be dashed to pieces in a Moment. A reef such as one speaks of here is Scarcely known in Europe. It is a Wall of Coral Rock rising almost perpendicular out of the unfathomable Ocean, always overflown at high Water generally 7 or 8 feet, and dry in places at Low Water. The Large Waves of the Vast Ocean meeting with so sudden a resistance makes a most Terrible Surf, breaking Mountains high, especially as in our case, when the General Trade Wind blows directly upon it.

    At this Critical juncture, when all our endeavours seemed too little, a Small Air of Wind sprung up, but so small that at any other Time in a Calm we should not have observed it. With this, and the Assistance of our Boats, we could observe the Ship to move off from the Reef in a slanting direction; but in less than 10 Minutes we had as flat a Calm as ever, when our fears were again renewed, for as yet we were not above 200 Yards from the Breakers. Soon after our friendly Breeze visited us again, and lasted about as long as before. A Small Opening was now Seen in the Reef about a 1/4 of a Mile from us, which I sent one of the Mates to Examine. Its breadth was not more than the Length of the Ship, but within was Smooth Water. Into this place it was resolved to Push her if Possible, having no other Probable Views to save her, for we were still in the very Jaws of distruction, and it was a doubt wether or no we could reach this Opening. However, we soon got off it, when to our Surprise we found the Tide of Ebb gushing out like a Mill Stream, so that it was impossible to get in. We however took all the Advantage Possible of it, and it Carried us out about a 1/4 of a Mile from the breakers; but it was too Narrow for us to keep in long. However, what with the help of this Ebb, and our Boats, we by Noon had got an Offing of 1 1/2 or 2 Miles, yet we could hardly flatter ourselves with hopes of getting Clear, even if a breeze should Spring up, as we were by this time embay’d by the Reef, and the Ship, in Spite of our Endeavours, driving before the Sea into the bight. The Ebb had been in our favour, and we had reason to Suppose the flood which was now made would be against us. The only hopes we had was another Opening we saw about a Mile to the Westward of us, which I sent Lieutenant Hicks in the Small Boat to Examine. Latitude observed 12 degrees 37 minutes South, the Main Land in Sight distant about 10 Leagues.

  416. 17 August 1770

    Escape Through the Providential Channel

    Landscape format / aerial shot / oblique view of the Swain Reefs

    Friday, 17th.

    While Mr. Hicks was Examining the opening we struggled hard with the flood, sometime gaining a little and at other times loosing. At 2 o’Clock Mr. Hicks returned with a favourable Account of the Opening. It was immediately resolved to Try to secure the Ship in it. Narrow and dangerous as it was, it seemed to be the only means we had of saving her, as well as ourselves.

    A light breeze soon after sprung up at East-North-East, with which, the help of our Boats, and a Flood Tide, we soon entered the Opening, and was hurried thro’ in a short time by a Rappid Tide like a Mill race, which kept us from driving against either side, though the Channel was not more than a 1/4 of a Mile broad, having 2 Boats ahead of us sounding. (This picture of the narrow escape from total shipwreck is very graphic. Many a ship has been lost under similar circumstances, without any idea of anchoring, which would often save a vessel, as it is not often that a reef is so absolutely steep; but that Cook had this possibility in his mind is clear.)

    As a proof of the calmness which prevailed on board, it may be mentioned that when in the height of the danger, Mr. Green, Mr. Clerke, and Mr. Forwood the gunner, were engaged in taking a Lunar, to obtain the longitude. The note in Mr. Green’s log is: “These observations were very good, the limbs of sun and moon very distinct, and a good horizon. We were about 100 yards from the reef, where we expected the ship to strike every minute, it being calm, no soundings, and the swell heaving us right on.”

    Our deepth of water was from 30 to 7 fathoms; very irregular soundings and foul ground until we had got quite within the Reef, where we Anchor’d in 19 fathoms, a Coral and Shelly bottom. The Channel we came in by, which I have named Providential Channell, bore East-North-East, distant 10 or 12 Miles, being about 8 or 9 Leagues from the Main land, which extended from North 66 degrees West to South-West by South.

    It is but a few days ago that I rejoiced at having got without the Reef; but that joy was nothing when Compared to what I now felt at being safe at an Anchor within it. Such are the Visissitudes attending this kind of Service, and must always attend an unknown Navigation where one steers wholy in the dark without any manner of Guide whatever. Was it not from the pleasure which Naturly results to a man from his being the first discoverer, even was it nothing more than Land or Shoals, this kind of Service would be insupportable, especially in far distant parts like this, Short of Provisions and almost every other necessary.

    People will hardly admit of an excuse for a Man leaving a Coast unexplored he has once discovered. If dangers are his excuse, he is then charged with Timerousness and want of Perseverance, and at once pronounced to be the most unfit man in the world to be employ’d as a discoverer. If, on the other hand, he boldly encounters all the dangers and Obstacles he meets with, and is unfortunate enough not to succeed, he is then Charged with Temerity, and, perhaps, want of Conduct.

    The former of these Aspersions, I am confident, can never be laid to my Charge, and if I am fortunate to Surmount all the Dangers we meet with, the latter will never be brought in Question; altho’ I must own that I have engaged more among the Islands and Shoals upon this Coast than perhaps in prudence I ought to have done with a single Ship (Cook was so impressed with the danger of one ship alone being engaged in these explorations, that in his subsequent voyages he asked for, and obtained, two vessels.) and every other thing considered. But if I had not I should not have been able to give any better account of the one half of it than if I had never seen it; at best, I should not have been able to say wether it was Mainland or Islands; and as to its produce, that we should have been totally ignorant of as being inseparable with the other; and in this case it would have been far more satisfaction to me never to have discover’d it.

    But it is time I should have done with this Subject, which at best is but disagreeable, and which I was lead into on reflecting on our late Dangers.

    In the P.M., as the wind would not permit us to sail out by the same Channel as we came in, neither did I care to move until the pinnace was in better repair, I sent the Master with all the other Boats to the Reef to get such refreshments as he could find, and in the meantime the Carpenters were repairing the pinnace. Variations by the Amplitude and Azimuth in the morning 4 degrees 9 minutes Easterly; at noon Latitude observed 12 degrees 38 minutes South, Longitude in 216 degrees 45 minutes West.

    It being now about low water, I and some other of the officers went to the Masthead to see what we could discover. Great part of the reef without us was dry, and we could see an Opening in it about two Leagues farther to the South-East than the one we came in by; we likewise saw 2 large spots of sand to the Southward within the Reef, but could see nothing to the Northward between it and the Main.

    On the Mainland within us was a pretty high promontary, which I called Cape Weymouth (Latitude 12 degrees 42 minutes South, Longitude 217 degrees 15 minutes); and on the North-West side of this Cape is a Bay, which I called Weymouth Bay. (Viscount Weymouth was one of the Secretaries of State when the Endeavour sailed.)

  417. 18 August 1770

    Resuming the Voyage and Keeping to the Mainland

    Saturday, 18th. Gentle breezes at East and East-South-East. At 4 P.M. the Boats return’d from the Reef with about 240 pounds of Shell-fish, being the Meat of large Cockles, exclusive of the Shells. Some of these Cockles are as large as 2 Men can move, and contain about 20 pounds of Meat, very good. At 6 in the morning we got under sail, and stood away to the North-West, as we could not expect a wind to get out to Sea by the same Channel as we came in without waiting perhaps a long time for it, nor was it advisable at this time to go without the Shoals, least we should by them be carried so far off the Coast as not to be able to determine wether or no New Guinea joins to or makes a part of this land. This doubtful point I had from my first coming upon the Coast, determined, if Possible, to clear up; I now came to a fix’d resolution to keep the Main land on board, let the Consequence be what it will, and in this all the Officers concur’d.

    In standing to the North-West we met with very irregular soundings, from 10 to 27 fathoms, varying 5 or 6 fathoms almost every Cast of the Lead. However, we keept on having a Boat ahead sounding. A little before noon we passed a low, small, sandy Isle, which we left on our Starboard side at the distance of 2 Miles. At the same time we saw others, being part of large Shoals above water, away to the North-East and between us and the Main land. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 12 degrees 28 minutes South, and 4 or 5 Leagues from the Main, which extended from South by West to North 71 degrees West, and some Small Islands extending from North 40 degrees West to North 54 degrees West, the Main or outer Reef seen from the Masthead away to the North-East.

  418. 19 August 1770

    Through Shoals and the Naming of Cape Grenville

    Sunday, 19th. Gentle breezes at South-East by East and Clear wether. At 2 P.M., as we were steering North-West by North, saw a large shoal right ahead, extending 3 or 4 points on each bow, upon which we hauld up North-North-East and North-East by North, in order to get round to North Point of it, which we reached by 4 o’clock, and then Edged away to the westward, and run between the North end of this Shoal and another, which lays 2 miles to the Northward of it, having a Boat all the time ahead sounding. Our depth of Water was very irregular, from 22 to 8 fathoms. At 1/2 past 6 we Anchor’d in 13 fathoms; the Northermost of the Small Islands mentioned at Noon bore West 1/2 South, distant 3 Miles. These Islands, which are known in the Chart by the name of Forbes’s Isles,* (* Admiral John Forbes was a Commissioner of Longitude in 1768, and had been a Lord of the Admiralty from 1756 to 1763.) lay about 5 Leagues from the Main, which here forms a moderate high point, which we called Bolt head, from which the Land trends more westerly, and is all low, sandy Land, but to the Southward it is high and hilly, even near the Sea.

    At 6 A.M. we got under sail, and directed our Course for an Island which lay but a little way from the Main, and bore from us at this time North 40 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues; but we were soon interrupted in our Course by meeting with Shoals, but by the help of 2 Boats ahead and a good lookout at the Mast head we got at last into a fair Channel, which lead us down to the Island, having a very large Shoal on our Starboard side and several smaller ones betwixt us and the Main land. In this Channel we had from 20 to 30 fathoms. Between 11 and 12 o’Clock we hauld round the North-East side of the Island, leaving it between us and the Main from which it is distant 7 or 8 Miles. This Island is about a League in Circuit and of a moderate height, and is inhabited; to the North-West of it are several small, low Islands and Keys, which lay not far from the Main, and to the Northward and Eastward lay several other Islands and Shoals, so that we were now incompassed on every side by one or the other, but so much does a great danger Swallow up lesser ones, that these once so much dreaded spots were now looked at with less concern.

    The Boats being out of their Stations, we brought too to wait for them. At Noon our Latitude by observation was 12 degrees 0 minutes South, Longitude in 217 degrees 25 minutes West; depth of Water 14 fathoms; Course and distance sail’d, reduced to a strait line, since yesterday Noon is North 29 degrees West, 32 Miles. The Main land within the above Islands forms a point, which I call Cape Grenville* (* George Grenville was First Lord of the Admiralty for a few months in 1763, and afterwards Prime Minister for two years.) (Latitude 11 degrees 58 minutes, Longitude 217 degrees 38 minutes); between this Cape and the Bolt head is a Bay, which I Named Temple Bay.* (* Richard Earl Temple, brother of George Grenville, was First Lord of the Admiralty in 1756.) East 1/2 North, 9 Leagues from Cape Grenville, lay some tolerable high Islands, which I called Sir Charles Hardy’s Isles;* (* Admiral Sir C. Hardy was second in command in Hawke’s great action in Quiberon Bay, 1759.) those which lay off the Cape I named Cockburn Isles.* (* Admiral George Cockburn was a Commissioner of Longitude and Comptroller of the Navy when Cook left England. Off Cape Grenville the Endeavour again got into what is now the recognised channel along the land inside the reefs.)

  419. 20 August 1770

    Navigating the Bird Isles and Surrounding Shoals

    Monday, 20th. Fresh breezes at East-South-East. About one P.M. the pinnace having got ahead, and the Yawl we took in Tow, we fill’d and Steer’d North by West, for some small Islands we had in that direction. After approaching them a little nearer we found them join’d or connected together by a large Reef; upon this we Edged away North-West, and left them on our Starboard hand, steering between them and the Island laying off the Main, having a fair and Clear Passage; Depth of Water from 15 to 23 fathoms. At 4 we discover’d some low Islands and Rocks bearing West-North-West, which we stood directly for. At half Past 6 we Anchor’d on the North-East side of the Northermost, in 16 fathoms, distant from the Island one Mile. This Isle lay North-West 4 Leagues from Cape Grenville. On the Isles we saw a good many Birds, which occasioned my calling them Bird Isles. Before and at Sunset we could see the Main land, which appear’d all very low and sandy, Extends as far to the Northward as North-West by North, and some Shoals, Keys, and low sandy Isles away to the North-East of us.

    At 6 A.M. we got again under sail, with a fresh breeze at East, and stood away North-North-West for some low Islands* (* Boydong Keys.) we saw in that direction; but we had not stood long upon this Course before we were obliged to haul close upon a wind in Order to weather a Shoal which we discover’d on our Larboard bow, having at the same time others to the Eastward of us. By such time as we had weathered the Shoal to Leeward we had brought the Islands well upon our Leebow; but seeing some Shoals spit off from them, and some rocks on our Starboard bow, which we did not discover until we were very near them, made me afraid to go to windward of the Islands; wherefore we brought too, and made the signal for the pinnace, which was a head, to come on board, which done, I sent her to Leeward of the Islands, with Orders to keep along the Edge off the Shoal, which spitted off from the South side of the Southermost Island. The Yawl I sent to run over the Shoals to look for Turtle, and appointed them a Signal to make in case they saw many; if not, she was to meet us on the other side of the Island.

    As soon as the pinnace had got a proper distance from us we wore, and stood After her, and run to Leeward of the Islands, where we took the Yawl in Tow, she having seen only one small Turtle, and therefore made no Stay upon the Shoal. Upon this Island, which is only a Small Spott of Land, with some Trees upon it, we saw many Hutts and habitations of the Natives, which we supposed come over from the Main to these Islands (from which they are distant about 5 Leagues) to Catch Turtle at the time these Animals come ashore to lay their Eggs. Having got the Yawl in Tow, we stood away after the pinnace North-North-East and North by East to 2 other low Islands, having 2 Shoals, which we could see without and one between us and the Main. At Noon we were about 4 Leagues from the Main land, which we could see Extending to the Northward as far as North-West by North, all low, flat, and Sandy. Our Latitude by observation was 11 degrees 23 minutes South, Longitude in 217 degrees 46 minutes West, and Course and distance sail’d since Yesterday at Noon North 22 degrees West, 40 Miles; soundings from 14 to 23 fathoms. But these are best seen upon the Chart, as likewise the Islands, Shoals, etc., which are too Numerous to be Mentioned singly.* (* It is very difficult to follow Cook’s track after entering Providential Channel to this place. The shoals and islands were so confusing that their positions are very vaguely laid down on Cook’s chart. It is easy to imagine how slow was his progress and tortuous his course, with a boat ahead all the time constantly signalling shallow water. Nothing is more trying to officers and men.)

  420. 21 August 1770

    Rounding Cape York and Leaving New Holland

    Tuesday, 21st. Winds at East by South and East-South-East, fresh breeze. By one o’Clock we had run nearly the length of the Southermost of the 2 Islands before mentioned, and finding that we could not well go to windward of them without carrying us too far from the Main land, we bore up, and run to Leeward, where we found a fair open passage. This done, we steer’d North by West, in a parrallel direction with the Main land, leaving a small Island between us and it, and some low sandy Isles and Shoals without us, all of which we lost sight of by 4 o’Clock; neither did we see any more before the sun went down, at which time the farthest part of the Main in sight bore North-North-West 1/2 West. Soon after this we Anchor’d in 13 fathoms, soft Ground, about five Leagues from the Land, where we lay until day light, when we got again under sail, having first sent the Yawl ahead to sound.

    We steer’d North-North-West by Compass from the Northermost land in sight; Variation 3 degrees 6 minutes East. Seeing no danger in our way we took the Yawl in Tow, and made all the Sail we could until 8 o’Clock, at which time we discover’d Shoals ahead and on our Larboard bow, and saw that the Northermost land, which we had taken to be a part of the Main, was an Island, or Islands,* (*Now called Mount Adolphus Islands.) between which and the Main there appeared to be a good Passage thro’ which we might pass by running to Leeward of the Shoals on our Larboard bow, which was now pretty near us. Whereupon we wore and brought too, and sent away the Pinnace and Yawl to direct us clear of the Shoals, and then stood after them. Having got round the South-East point of the Shoal we steer’d North-West along the South-West, or inside of it, keeping a good lookout at the Masthead, having another Shoal on our Larboard side; but we found a good Channel of a Mile broad between them, wherein were from 10 to 14 fathoms.

    At 11 o’Clock, being nearly the length of the Islands above mentioned, and designing to pass between them and the Main, the Yawl, being thrown a stern by falling in upon a part of the Shoal, She could not get over. We brought the Ship too, and Sent away the Long boat (which we had a stern, and rigg’d) to keep in Shore upon our Larboard bow, and the Pinnace on our Starboard; for altho’ there appear’d nothing in the Passage, yet I thought it necessary to take this method, because we had a strong flood, which carried us on end very fast, and it did not want much of high water. As soon as the Boats were ahead we stood after them, and got through by noon, at which time we were by observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 36 minutes 30 seconds South. The nearest part of the Main, and which we soon after found to be the Northermost,* (* Cape York, the northernmost point of Australia.) bore West southerly, distant 3 or 4 Miles; the Islands which form’d the passage before mentioned extending from North to North 75 degrees East, distant 2 or 3 Miles. At the same time we saw Islands at a good distance off extending from North by West to West-North-West, and behind them another chain of high land, which we likewise judged to be Islands.* (* The islands around Thursday Island.)

    The Main land we thought extended as far as North 71 degrees West; but this we found to be Islands. The point of the Main, which forms one side of the Passage before mentioned, and which is the Northern Promontory of this Country, I have named York Cape, in honour of his late Royal Highness, the Duke of York.* (* Edward Augustus, Duke of York and Albany, was a brother of George III.) It lies in the Longitude of 218 degrees 24 minutes West, the North point in the Latitude of 10 degrees 37 minutes South, and the East point in 10 degrees 41 minutes. The land over and to the Southward of this last point is rather low and very flatt as far inland as the Eye could reach, and looks barren. To the Southward of the Cape the Shore forms a large open bay, which I called Newcastle bay, wherein are some small, low Islands and shoals, and the land all about it is very low, flatt, and sandy.

    The land on the Northern part of the Cape is rather more hilly, and the shore forms some small bays, wherein there appear’d to be good Anchorage, and the Vallies appear’d to be tolerably well Cloathed with wood. Close to the East point of the Cape are 3 small Islands, and a small Ledge of rocks spitting off from one of them. There is also an Island laying close to the North Point. The other Islands before spoke of lay about 4 Miles without these; only two of them are of any extent. The Southermost is the largest, and much higher than any part of the Main land. On the North-West side of this Island seem’d to be good Anchorage, and Vallies that to all appearance would afford both wood and fresh Water. These Isles are known in the Chart by the name of York Isles.* (* Now called Mount Adolphus Islands.) To the Southward and South-East of them, and even to the Eastward and Northward, are several low Islands, rocks, and Shoals. Our depth of Water in sailing between them and the Main was 12, 13, and 14 fathoms.* (* In this channel is the dangerous rock on which the steamship Quetta was wrecked, with such terrible loss of life, in 1890. By the Endeavour’s track she must have passed very near it.)

  421. 22 August 1770

    Claiming the East Coast

    At Possession Island, near the northern tip of Cape York, Cook conducted a formal ceremony claiming the eastern coast of Australia for Britain. The act, however, was made without knowledge of the continent’s immense interior or its uncharted western shores.

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Wednesday, 22nd. Gentle breezes at East by South and clear weather. We had not steer’d above 3 or 4 Miles along shore to the westward before we discover’d the land ahead to be Islands detached by several Channels from the main land; upon this we brought too to Wait for the Yawl, and called the other Boats on board, and after giving them proper instructions, sent them away again to lead us thro’ the Channell next the Main, and as soon as the Yawl was on board made sail after them with the Ship. Soon after we discover’d rocks and Shoals in this Channell, upon which I made the Signal for the boats to lead thro’ the next Channel to the Northward* (* This led to Endeavour Strait, but the recognised track is the channel farther north.) laying between the Islands, which they accordingly did, we following with the Ship, and had not less than 5 fathoms; and this in the narrowest part of the Channel, which was about a Mile and a 1/2 broad from Island to Island.

    At 4 o’Clock we Anchor’d about a Mile and a 1/2 or 2 Miles within the Entrance in 6 1/2 fathoms, clear ground, distance from the Islands on each side of us one Mile, the Main land extending away to the South-West; the farthest point of which we could see bore from us South 48 degrees West, and the Southermost point of the Islands, on the North-West side of the Passage, bore South 76 degrees West. Between these 2 points we could see no land, so that we were in great hopes that we had at last found out a Passage into the Indian seas; but in order to be better informed I landed with a party of men, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, upon the Islands which lies at the South-East point of the Passage. Before and after we Anchor’d we saw a Number of People upon this Island, Arm’d in the same manner as all the others we have seen, Except one man, who had a bow and a bundle of Arrows, the first we have seen upon this Coast. From the appearance of the people we expected they would have opposed our landing; but as we approached the shore they all made off, and left us in peaceable possession of as much of the Island as served our purpose.

    After landing I went upon the highest hill, which, however, was of no great height, yet no less than twice or thrice the height of the Ship’s Mastheads; but I could see from it no land between South-West and West-South-West, so that I did not doubt but there was a passage. I could see plainly that the lands laying to the North-West of this passage were compos’d of a number of Islands of Various extent, both for height and Circuit, ranged one behind another as far to the Northward and Westward as I could see, which could not be less than 12 or 14 Leagues.

    Having satisfied myself of the great Probability of a passage, thro’ which I intend going with the Ship, and therefore may land no more upon this Eastern coast of New Holland, and on the Western side I can make no new discovery, the honour of which belongs to the Dutch Navigators, but the Eastern Coast from the Latitude of 38 degrees South down to this place, I am confident, was never seen or Visited by any European before us; and notwithstanding I had in the Name of his Majesty taken possession of several places upon this Coast, I now once More hoisted English Colours, and in the Name of His Majesty King George the Third took possession of the whole Eastern coast from the above Latitude down to this place by the Name of New Wales,* (* The Admiralty copy, as well as that belonging to Her Majesty, calls it New South Wales. The island where the ceremony was performed was named on Cook’s chart Possession Island, and is still so called.) together with all the Bays, Harbours, Rivers, and Islands, situated upon the said Coast; after which we fired 3 Volleys of small Arms, which were answer’d by the like number from the Ship.

    This done, we set out for the Ship, but were some time in getting on board on account of a very Rapid Ebb Tide, which set North-East out of the Passage. Ever since we came in amongst the Shoals this last time we have found a Moderate Tide; the flood setting to the North-West and Ebb to the South-East; at this place is high water at full and change of the moon, about 1 or 2 o’Clock, and riseth and falleth upon a perpendicular about 10 or 12 feet. We saw upon all the Adjacent Lands and Islands a great number of smokes–a certain sign that they are inhabited–and we have daily seen smokes on every part of the Coast we have lately been upon. Between 7 and 8 o’Clock a.m. we saw several naked people, all or most of them Women, down upon the beach picking up Shells, etc.; they had not a single rag of any kind of Cloathing upon them, and both these and those we saw yesterday were in every respect the same sort of People we have seen everywhere upon the Coast. 2 or 3 of the Men we saw Yesterday had on pretty large breast plates, which we supposed were made of pearl Oyster Shells; this was a thing, as well as the Bow and Arrows, we had not seen before.

    At low water, which hapned about 10 o’Clock, we got under sail, and stood to the South-West, with a light breeze at East, which afterwards veer’d to North by East, having the Pinnace ahead; depth of Water from 6 to 10 fathoms, except in one place, were we passed over a Bank of 5 fathoms. At Noon Possession Island, at the South-East entrance of the Passage, bore North 53 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues; the Western extream of the Main land in sight South 43 degrees West, distant 4 or 5 Leagues, being all exceeding low. The South-West point of the largest Island* (* Prince of Wales Island.) on the North-West side of the passage bore North 71 degrees West, distant 8 Miles; this point I named Cape Cornwall (Latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes South, Longitude 218 degrees 59 minutes West),* (* This longitude is 70 minutes too far west, and one of the worst given in the Journal. There were no observations, and the dead reckoning among the shoals was difficult to keep.) and some low Islands lying about the Middle of the Passage, which I called Wallace’s Isles, bore West by South 1/2 South, distance about 2 Leagues. Our Latitude by Observation was 10 degrees 46 minutes South.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth): August 21, 1770:

    “At four o’clock in the afternoon, we anchored, being about a mile and a half, or two miles, within the entrance, in six fathom and a half, with clear ground: the channel here had begun to widen, and the islands on each side of us were distant about a mile: the main land stretched away to the S. W. the farthest point in view bore S. 48 W. and the southermost point of the islands, on the north west side of the passage, bore S. 76 W. Between these two points we could see no land, so that we conceived hopes of having, at last, found a passage into the Indian sea; however, that I might be able to determine with more certainty, I resolved to land upon the island which lies at the south east point of the passage.

    Upon this island we had seen many of the inhabitants when we first came to an anchor, and when I went into the boat, with a party of men, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, in order to go ashore, we saw ten of them upon a hill: nine of them were armed with such lances as we had been used to see, and the tenth had a bow, and a bundle of arrows, which we had never seen in the possession of the natives of this country before: we also observed, that two of them had large ornaments of mother of pearl hanging round their necks. Three of these, one of whom was the bowman, placed themselves upon the beach abreast of us, and we expected that they would have opposed our landing, but when we came within about a musket’s shot of the beach, they walked leisurely away.

    We immediately climbed the highest hill, which was not more than three times as high as the mast-head, and the most barren of any we had seen. From this hill, no land could be seen between the S.W. and W.S.W. so that I had no doubt of finding a channel through. The land to the north west of it consisted of a great number of islands of various extent, and different heights, ranged one behind another, as far to the northward and westward as I could see, which could not be less than thirteen leagues.

    As I was now about to quit the eastern coast of New Holland, which I had coasted from latitude 38 to this place, and which I am confident no European had ever seen before, I once more hoisted English colours, and though I had already taken possession of several particular parts, I now took possession of the whole eastern coast, from latitude 38° to this place, latitude 10½ S. in right of his Majesty King George the Third, by the name of New South Wales, with all the bays, harbours, rivers, and islands situated upon it: we then fired three vollies of small arms, which were answered by the same number from the ship. Having performed this ceremony upon the island, which we called Possession Island, we reimbarked in our boat, but a rapid ebb tide setting N.E. made our return to the vessel very difficult and tedious.

    From the time of our last coming among the shoals, we constantly found a moderate tide, the stood setting to the N.W. and the ebb to the S.E. At this place, it is high water at the full and change of the moon, about one or two o’clock, and the water rises and falls perpendicularly about twelve feet. We saw smoke rising in many places from the adjacent lands and islands, as we had done upon every part of the coast, after our last return to it through the reef.” 

    Banks’s Journal, August 21, 1770:

    “Running along shore with charming moderate weather, as indeed we have had ever since our second entering the reef. We observd both last night and this morn that the main lookd very narrow, so we began to look out for the Passage we expected to find between new Holland and New Guinea.

    At noon one was seen very narrow but appearing to widen: we resolv’d to try it so stood in. In passing through, for it was not more than a mile in lengh before it widned very much, we saw 10 Indians standing on a hill; 9 were armed with lances as we had been usd to see them, the tenth had a bow and arrows; 2 had also large ornaments of mother of Pearl shell hung round their necks. After the ship had passd by 3 followd her, one of whoom was the bow man. We soon came abreast, from whence we concluded we might have a much better view than from our mast head, so the anchor was dropd and we prepard ourselves to go ashore to examine whether the place we stood into was a bay or a passage; for as we saild right before the trade wind we might find dificulty in getting out should it prove to be the former.

    The 3 Indians plac’d themselves upon the beach opposite to us as if resolvd either to oppose or assist our landing; when however we came about Musquet shot from them they all walkd leisurely away. The hill we were upon was by much the most barren we had been upon; it however gave us the satisfaction of seeing a streight, at least as far as we could see, without any obstruction. In the Even a strong tide made us almost certain.”

    ______

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  422. 23 August 1770

    Booby Island and the End of New Holland

    Thursday, 23rd. In the P.M. had little wind and Variable, with which and the Tide of Flood we keept advancing to the West-North-West; depth of Water 8, 7, and 5 fathoms. At 1/2 past 1 the pinnace, which was ahead, made the Signal for Shoal Water, upon which we Tackt and sent away the Yawl to sound also, and then Tack’d again, and stood after them with the Ship; 2 hours after this they both at once made the Signal for having Shoal water. I was afraid to stand on for fear of running aground at that time of the Tide, and therefore came to an Anchor in 1/4 less 7 fathoms, sandy ground. Wallice’s Islands bore South by West 1/2 West, distant 5 or 6 Miles, the Islands to the Northward extending from North 73 degrees East to North 10 degrees East, and a small island* (* Booby Island.) just in sight bearing North-West 1/2 West. Here we found the flood Tide set to the Westward and Ebb to the Contrary. After we had come to Anchor I sent away the Master with the Long boat to sound, who, upon his return in the evening, reported that there was a bank stretching North and South, upon which were 3 fathoms Water, and behind it 7 fathoms.

    We had it Calm all Night and until 9 in the morning, at which time we weigh’d, with a light breeze at South-South-East, and steer’d North-West by West for the Small Island above mentioned, having first sent the Boats ahead to sound; depth of Water 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms when upon the Bank,* (* The Endeavour Strait is now little used, on account of this great bank, which nearly bars its western part. There is, however, deeper water than Cook found, a few miles to the southward; but it is just the difficulty of finding this narrow pass, so far from land, and the fact that there is a deep though narrow channel north of Prince of Wales Island, that has caused it to be abandoned. The passage of Torres Strait is, however, still an anxious bit of navigation.) it being now the last Quarter Ebb. At this time the most Northermost Islands we had in sight bore North 9 degrees East; the South-West point of the largest Islands on the North-West side of the Passage, which I named Cape Cornwall, bore East; distant 3 Leagues. This bank, at least so much as we sounded, extends nearly North and South, how far I cannot say; its breadth, however, is not more than 1/4 or at most 1/2 a Mile.

    Being over the Bank, we deepned our water to a 1/4 less 7 fathoms, which depth we carried all the way to the small Island ahead, which we reached by Noon, at which time it bore South, distant near 1/2 a Mile; depth of Water 5 fathoms. The most northermost land we had in sight (being part of the same Chain of Islands we have had to the Northward of us since we entered the Passage) bore North 71 degrees East; Latitude in, by Observation, 10 degrees 33 minutes South, Longitude 219 degrees 22 minutes West. In this situation we had no part of the Main land in sight. Being now near the island, and having but little wind, Mr. Banks and I landed upon it, and found it to be mostly a barren rock frequented by Birds, such as Boobies, a few of which we shott, and occasioned my giving it the name of Booby Island.* (* Booby Island is now the great landmark for ships making Torres Strait from the westward. There is a light upon it.)

    I made but very short stay at this Island before I return’d to the Ship; in the meantime the wind had got to the South-West, and although it blow’d but very faint, yet it was accompanied with a Swell from the same quarter. This, together with other concuring Circumstances, left me no room to doubt but we had got to the Westward of Carpentaria, or the Northern extremity of New Holland, and had now an open Sea to the Westward; which gave me no small satisfaction, not only because the danger and fatigues of the Voyage was drawing near to an end, but by being able to prove that New Holland and New Guinea are 2 separate Lands or Islands, which until this day hath been a doubtful point with Geographers.* (* Luis Vaez de Torres, commanding a Spanish ship in company with Quiros in 1605, separated from his companion in the New Hebrides. He afterwards passed through the Strait separating New Guinea from Australia, which now bears his name. This fact, however, was little known, as the Spaniards suppressed all account of the voyage; and though it leaked out later, the report was so vague that it was very much doubted whether he had really passed this way. On most charts and maps of the period, New Guinea was shown joined to Australia, and to Cook the establishment of the Strait may fairly be given. Only the year before Bougainville, the French navigator, who preceded Cook across the Pacific, and who was steering across the Coral Sea on a course which would have led him to Lizard Island, abandoned his search in that direction, after falling in with two reefs to the eastward of the Barrier, because he feared falling amongst other shoals, and had no faith whatever in the reports of the existence of Torres Strait. Had he persevered, he would have snatched from Cook the honour of the complete exploration of Eastern Australia, and of the verification of the passage between it and New Guinea. Bougainville paid dearly for his caution, as he found that retracing his steps against the trade wind, in order to pass eastward and northward of New Guinea, occupied such a weary time, that he and his people were nearly starved before they reached a place of refreshment.)

  423. 24 August 1770

    Losing an Anchor near Booby Island

    Friday, 24th. In the P.M. had light Airs from the South-South-West, with which, after leaving Booby Island, as before mentioned, we steer’d West-North-West until 5 o’clock, when it fell Calm, and the Tide of Ebb which sets to the North-East soon after making, we Anchor’d in 8 fathoms soft sandy bottom, Booby Island bearing South 50 degrees East, distant 5 miles; Prince of Wales Isles extending from North-East by North to South 55 degrees East. There appear’d to be an open clear passage between these Islands extending from North 64 degrees East to East by North.

    At 1/2 past 5 in the morning in purchasing* (* Weighing the anchor.) the Anchor, the Cable parted about 8 or 10 fathoms from the Anchor; I immediately order’d another Anchor to be let go, which brought the ship up before she had drove a cable’s length from the Buoy; after this we carried out a Kedge, and warped the ship nearer to it, and then endeavour’d to sweep the Anchor with a Hawser, but miss’d it, and broke away the Buoy rope.* (* The kedge is a small anchor. Sweeping is dragging the middle of a rope, or hawser, held at the two ends from two boats some distance apart, along the bottom, with the object of catching the fluke of the anchor as it lies on the bottom, and so recovering it. It is a long and wearisome operation if the bottom is uneven. Cook, however, having already lost one of his large anchors, could not afford to leave this without an effort.) We made several Attempts afterwards, but did not succeed. While the Boats were thus employed we hove up the Kedge Anchor, it being of no more use. At Noon Latitude observed 10 degrees 30 minutes South. Winds at North-East, a fresh breeze; the Flood Tide here comes from the same Quarter.

  424. 25 August 1770

    Recovering the Lost Anchor and Leaving Torres Strait

    Saturday, 25th. Winds at North-East and East-North-East, a gentle breeze. Being resolv’d not to leave the Anchor behind while there remain’d the least probability of getting of it, after dinner I sent the Boats again to sweep for it first with a small line, which succeeded, and now we know’d where it lay we found it no very hard matter to sweep it with a Hawser. This done, we hove the Ship up to it by the same Hawser, but just as it was almost up and down the Hawser slip’d, and left us all to do over again. By this time it was dark, and obliged us to leave off until daylight in the morning, when we sweep’d it again, and hove it up to the bows, and by 8 o’Clock weigh’d the other anchor, got under sail, and stood away North-West, having a fresh breeze at East-North-East.

    At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 18 minutes South, Longitude 219 degrees 39 minutes West, having no land in sight, but about 2 miles to the Southward of us lay a Shoal,* (* Cook Reef.) on which the Sea broke, and I believe a part of it dry. At low Water it extended North-West and South-East, and might be about 4 or 5 Leagues in Circuit; depth of Water at this time and since we weigh’d 9 fathoms.

  425. 26 August 1770

    A Narrow Escape from the Shoals

    Sunday, 26th. Fresh breezes at East in standing to the North-West. We began to Shoalden our water from 9 to 7 fathoms, and at 1/2 past one, having run 11 Miles since Noon, the boat which was a head made the signal for Shoal Water, immediately upon which we let go an Anchor, and brought the Ship up with the sails standing as the boats was but a little way ahead, having but just relieved the Crew, and at same time we saw from the Ship Shoal Water* (* Cook Shoal.) in a manner all round us, and both wind and Tide setting upon it. We lay in 6 fathoms with the Ship, but upon sounding about her found hardly 2 fathoms, a very rocky bottom, not much above 1/2 a cable’s length from us from the east round by the North and West as far as South-West, so that there was no way to get clear but the way we came.

    This was one of the many Fortunate Escapes we have had from Shipwreck, for it was near high water, and there run a short cockling sea that would soon have bulged the Ship had she struck. These Shoals that lay a fathom or 2 under Water are the most dangerous of any, for they do not shew themselves until you are close upon them, and then the water upon them looks brown like the reflection of dark clouds. Between 3 and 4 the Ebb began to make, when I sent the Master to sound to the Southward and South Westward, and in the meantime, as the Ship tended,* (* Swung to the tide.) hove up the Anchor, and with a little Sail stood to the Southward and afterwards edged away to the Westward, and got once more out of danger, where at sun set we Anchor’d in 10 fathoms Sandy bottom.

    Having a fresh of wind at East-South-East, at 6 o’clock in the morning we weighed and stood West, with a fresh of wind at East, having first sent a boat ahead to sound. I did intend to have steer’d North-West until we had made the Coast of New Guinea, designing if Possible to touch upon that Coast, but the meeting with these Shoals last night made me Alter the Course to West, in hopes of meeting with fewer dangers and deeper Water; and this we found, for by Noon we had deepned our water gradually to 17 fathoms, and this time we were by observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 10 minutes South, Longitude 220 degrees 12 minutes West. Course and distance sail’d since yesterday at noon North 76 degrees West, 11 Leagues, no land in sight.

  426. 27 August 1770

    Steady Progress Westward in Deep Water

    Monday, 27th. Fresh breezes between the East by North and East-South-East, with which we steer’d West until sun set; depth of Water from 27 to 23 fathoms. We now Reef’d the Topsails, shortened Sail, and hoisted in the pinnace and Long boat up alongside, and afterwards kept upon a Wind all night under our Topsails, 4 hours on one Tack and four hours on the other; depth of Water 25 fathoms, very even soundings.

    At daylight made all the Sail we could, and steer’d West-North-West until 8 o’clock, then North-West; at Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees 56 minutes South, Longitude 221 degrees 00 minutes West; Variation 2 degrees 30 minutes East. Course and distance sail’d since yesterday at Noon North 73 degrees 33 minutes West, 49 miles.

  427. 28 August 1770

    Approaching New Guinea and Strange Sea Phenomenon

    Tuesday, 28th. Fresh breezes at East and East by South and fair weather. Continued a North-West Course until sun set, at which time we shortned sail, and haul’d close upon a Wind to the Northward; depth of Water 21 fathoms. At 8 Tack’d and stood to the Southward until 12, then stood to the Northward under little Sail until daylight, sounding from 25 to 17 fathoms; Shoalding as we stood to the Northward.

    At this time we made sail and steer’d North in order to make the land of New Guinea; from the time of our making sail until noon the depth of Water gradually decreased from 17 to 12 fathoms, a stony and shelly bottom. We were now by Observation in the Latitude of 8 degrees 52 minutes South, which is in the same Parrallel as the Southern parts of New Guinea as it is laid down in the Charts; but there are only 2 points so far to the South, and I reckon we are a degree to the Westward of both, and for that reason do not see the Land which trends more to the Northward.

    Our Course and distance sail’d since Yesterday is North-North-West, 69 Miles; Longitude in 221 degrees 27 minutes West. The Sea in many places is here cover’d with a kind of a brown scum, such as Sailors generally call spawn; upon our first seeing it it alarm’d us, thinking we were among Shoals, but we found the same depth of Water were it was as in other places; neither Mr. Banks nor Dr. Solander could tell what it was, altho’ they had of it to Examine.

  428. 29 August 1770

    First Sight of New Guinea

    Wednesday, 29th. Continued standing to the Northward, with a fresh gale at East by South and South-East until 6 o’clock, having very irregular and uncertain soundings from 24 to 7 fathoms. At 4 we made the Land from the Mast head, bearing North-West by North, and which appear’d to be very low. At 6 it extended from West-North-West to North-North-East, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. At this time hauld close upon a wind to the Eastward until 7 o’clock, then Tack’d and stood to the Southward until 12, at which time we wore and stood to the Northward until 4, then lay her Head off until daylight, when we again saw the Land, and stood North-North-West directly for it, having a fresh gale at East by South.

    Our Soundings in the night were from 17 to 5 fathoms, very irregular, without any sort of Rule with respect to our distance from the Land. At 1/2 past 6 a small low island, laying about a League from the Main, bore North by West, distant 5 miles; this island lays in the Latitude of 8 degrees 13 minutes South, Longitude 221 degrees 25 minutes West. I find it laid down in the Charts by the Name of St. Bartholomew or Whermoysen. We now steer’d North-West by West, West-North-West, West by North, West by South, and South-West by West, as we found the land to lay, having a Boat ahead of the Ship sounding; depth of water from 5 to 9 fathoms.

    When in 7, 8 or 9 fathoms we could but just see the Land from the Deck; but I did not think we were at above 4 Leagues off, because the land is exceeding low and level, and appeared to be well cover’d with wood; one sort appeared to us to be Cocoa Nutt Trees. By the Smookes we saw in different parts as we run along shore we were assured that the Country is inhabited. At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from the land, the Westermost part of which that we could see bore South 79 degrees West; our Latitude by Observation was 8 degrees 19 minutes South, Longitude 221 degrees 44 minutes West. The Island, St. Bartholomew, bore North 74 degrees East, distant 20.* (* The ship was now off the south coast of New Guinea, and near what is known as Princess Marianne Strait, which separates Frederick Henry Island from the main island. All this coast is very shallow, but very imperfectly charted to the present day.)

  429. 30 August 1770

    Navigating Shoals off the Coast of New Guinea

    Thursday, 30th. Fresh breezes at South-East, East-South-East, and East by South. After steering South-West by West, 6 miles, we discover’d on our Starboard bow and ahead a Strong appearance of Shoal Water, and by this time we had Shoald our water from 10 to 5 fathoms; upon which I made the Pinnace Signal to Edge down to it, but she not going far enough, we sent the Yawl to sound in it, and at the same time hauld off close upon a Wind, with the Ship until 4, at which time we had run 6 Miles, but did not depen our water anything.

    We then Edged away South-West, 4 Miles more, but finding still Shoal Water we brought too, and call’d the Boats on board by Signal, hoisted them in, and then hauld off close upon a wind, being at this time about 3 or 4 Miles from the Land. The Yawl found only 3 fathoms water in the place where I sent her to sound, which place I weather’d about 1/2 a mile. Between 1 and 2 we passed a Bay or Inlet, before which lies a small Island that seems to Shelter it from the Southerly winds; but I very much doubt their being Water behind it for Shipping.

    I could not attempt it because the South-East Trade wind blows right in, and we have not as yet had any land breezes. We stretched off to Sea until 12 o’Clock, at which time we were 10 and 11 Leagues from the Land, and had depen’d our Water to 29 fathoms; we now tack’d and stood in until 4 o’Clock, when, being in 6 1/2 fathoms, we tack’d and lay her head off until day light, at which time we saw the land bearing North-West by West, distant about 4 Leagues. We now made sail and steer’d West-South-West, and then West by South, but coming into 54 fathoms we hauld off South-West until we depen’d our Water to 8 fathoms; we then keept away West by South and West, having 9 fathoms and the Land just in sight from the Deck, which we judged not above 3 or 4 Leagues off, as it is everywhere exceeding low. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 8 degrees 38 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 34 minutes West. St. Bartholomew Isle bore North 69 degrees East, distant 74 Miles.

  430. 31 August 1770

    Passing Point St. Augustine and Encountering Strong Currents

    Friday, 31st. Between 12 and 1 in the P.M. Steer’d North-North-West, in which time we Shoalded our Water from 8 to 5 1/2, which I thought was little enough, and therefore keept away again West, and soon depen’d it to 7 fathoms, which depth we keept until 6, having the land just in sight from the Deck. At this time the Western Extream bore North, distant about 4 Leagues, and Seem’d to end in a point and turn away to the Northward; we took it to be Point St. Augustine or Walsche Caep, Latitude 8 degrees 24 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 55 minutes West.* (* This position is correct. Mr. Green had been assiduously observing lunars, and it appears strange that the error of the position of the north point of Australia was not discovered; but doubtless the discrepancy was put down to current.)

    We now shortned sail and hauld off South-South-West and South by West, having the wind at South-East and South-East by East, a Gentle breeze; we stood off 16 Miles, having from 7 to 27 fathoms, deepning gradually as we run off. At midnight we Tacked and stood in until daylight, at which time we could see no land, and yet we had only 5 1/2 fathoms. We now Steer’d North-West, having the same deepth of Water until near 9 o’Clock, when we began to Depen our Water to 6 1/2 and 7 fathoms.

    By this I thought that we were far Enough to the Westward of the Cape, and might haul to the Northward with Safety, which we now did, having the Wind at North-East by East, a light breeze. By Noon we had increased our Water to 9 fathoms, and were by Observation in the Latitude of 8 degrees 10 minutes South, which was 10 Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log; by which I conjectur’d that we had meet with a strong Current setting round the Cape, not only to the Northward, but to the Westward also, otherwise we ought to have seen the Land, which we did not.

  431. 1 September 1770

    Anchoring in Muddy Waters

    Saturday, 1st September. In the P.M. and most part of the night had a fresh breeze from the South-East with which we keept standing in for the land North-East and East-North-East, close upon a wind, until half past 6, when we Anchor’d in 4 1/2 fathoms, soft muddy bottom, as we have every were found upon the Coast. About an hour before we Anchor’d we saw the land from the Mast head extending from the East by North to South-South-East, all very low; at the time we Anchor’d we found a small drean* (* Drain.) of a Tide setting away to the North-West, which continued until 2 in the morning, when the Water had fell 9 feet or better.

    This Tide of Ebb was then succeeded by the Flood, which came from the South-West; yet we did not find the Water to rise much upon a perpendicular, or else the greatest fall of the Tide had not been well attended to in the night, for at 6, when we got under sail, we had no more than 3 fathoms under the ship, and yet we could not see the land from the Deck. After getting under sail we stood to the Northward with a light breeze at East, and deepned our Water by noon to 10 fathoms, having the Land just in sight from the Mast head to the South-East. At this time we were in the Latitude of 7 degrees 39 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 42 minutes West; Port St. Augustine bore South 10 degrees West, distant 15 Leagues.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  432. 2 September 1770

    Anchoring in Muddy Waters and Encountering Sea Snakes

    Sunday, 2nd. In the P.M. had Calm until 2, when a light breeze sprung up at North by East, and we stood in for the Land East by North until 5, at which time we got the wind from the South-West, a light breeze, with which we steer’d North-East, edging in for the land, having it in sight from the Deck, and which I judged to be about 3 or 4 Leagues off, being very low land. Found the Variation to be 2 degrees 34 minutes East, and a little before 8 o’Clock, having but little wind, we Anchor’d in 7 fathoms, soft Muddy bottom.

    In the Afternoon and evening we saw several Sea Snakes, some of which the people in the Boat alongside took up by hand. At daylight in the Morning we got under sail, and stood away to the North-North-East, having a fresh gale at East, which by noon brought us into the Latitude of 7 degrees 14 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 30 minutes West; Depth of Water 13 fathoms. Course and distance sail’d since Yesterday Noon is North 24 degrees East, 27 Miles, having at this time no land in sight, for the Land, according to the Charts, trends more Easterly than the Wind would permit us to sail.

  433. 3 September 1770

    Final Landing on the Coast of New Guinea

    Monday, 3rd. Steer’d North by East, with a fresh breeze at East by North until 7 in the Evening, when the wind came to South-East by South, with which we keept standing to the Eastward close upon a wind all Night, having from 17 to 10 fathoms pretty even Soundings. At daylight we saw the land extending from North by East to South-East, distant about 4 Leagues. We still keept standing in for it, having the advantage of a fresh gale at East-South-East and East by South, until near 9, when, being about 3 or 4 Miles off, and in 3 fathoms, we brought too and I went ashore in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, having a mind to land once in this Country before we quit it Altogether, which I now am determin’d to do without delay; for I found that it is only spending time to little purpose, and carrying us far out of our way, staying upon this Coast, which is so shallow that we can hardly keep within sight of land.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  434. 4 September 1770

    Sailing Westward with Variable Depths

    Tuesday, 4th. Stood to the Westward all this day, having at first a moderate breeze Southerly, which afterwards freshned and Veered to South-East and East-South-East. We keept on sounding all the time, having from 14 to 30 fathoms not regular, but sometimes more and sometimes less. At noon we were in 14 fathoms; by observation in the Latitude of 6 degrees 44 minutes South, Longitude 223 degrees 51 minutes West. Course and distance sail’d since Yesteday Noon South 76 minutes West, 120 Miles.

  435. 5 September 1770

    Passing Uncharted Islands near New Guinea

    Wednesday, 5th. Winds at East by South and South-East by East, a fresh gale and Clear weather, with which were run 118 Miles upon a South 69 degrees 15 minutes West Course, which at Noon brought us into the Latitude of 7 degrees 25 minutes South, Longitude 225 degrees 41 minutes West; depth of Water 28 fathoms, having been in soundings the whole of this day’s run, generally between 10 and 20 fathoms. At half an hour past one in the Morning we past by a small low Island, which bore from us at that time North-North-West, distant 3 or 4 Miles; depth of Water 14 fathoms, and at daylight we discover’d another low Island extending from North-North-West and North-North-East, distant 2 or 3 Leagues.

    I believe I should have landed upon this Island to have known its produce, as it did not appear to be very small, had not the wind blown too fresh for such an undertaking, and at the time we passed the Island we had only 10 fathoms Water, a rocky bottom; I was therefore afraid of running down to leeward for fear of meeting with Shoal Water and foul ground. These Islands have no place on the Charts, unless they are the Arrow Isles, which, if they are, they are laid down much too far from New Guinea. I found the South part of these to lay in the Latitude 7 degrees 6 minutes South, Longitude 225 degrees 0 minutes West.* (* These were probably Karang and Ennu Islands, two outliers of the Arru Islands.)

  436. 6 September 1770

    Fresh Gales and Sight of the Arrow Isles

    Thursday, 6th. A steady fresh gale at East by South and clear weather, with which we steer’d West-South-West. At 7 in the Evening we took in the small Sails, reefd the Topsails, and sounded, having 50 fathoms; we still keept West-South-West all night, going at the rate of 4 1/2 Miles an hour. At 10 had 42 fathoms; at 11, 37; and at 12 o’Clock 45; 1 o’Clock 49; and at 3, 120; after which we could get no ground. In the evening we caught 2 Boobies, which settled upon the rigging, and these were the first of the kind we have caught in this manner the voyage, altho’ I have heard of them being caught this way in great numbers.

    At daylight, in the Morning, we made all the sail we could, and at 10 o’Clock saw land extending from North-North-West to West by North, distant 5 or 6 League. At Noon it bore from North to West about the same distance; our Latitude by observation was 8 degrees 15 minutes South, Longitude 227 degrees 47 minutes West. This land is of an even and moderate height, and by our run from New Guinea ought to be a part of the Arrow Isles;* (* This was the southern part of the Tenimber Islands.) but it lays a degree farther to the South than any of these Islands are laid down in the Charts. We sounded, but had no ground, with 50 fathoms of Line.

  437. 7 September 1770

    Reflections on Faulty Charts and Lost Landfall

    Friday, 7th. As I was not able to satisfy myself from any Chart what land it was we saw to Leeward of us, and fearing it might trend away more Southerly, and the weather being hazey so that we could not see far, we steer’d South-West, which Course by 4 o’Clock run us out of sight of the land; by this I was assured that no part of it lay to the Southward of 8 degrees 15 minutes South. We continued standing to the South-West all night under an Easey sail, having the advantage of a fresh gale at South-East by East and East-South-East, and clear moon light; we sounded every hour, but had no bottom with 100 and 120 fathoms of line. At daylight in the Morning we steer’d West-South-West, and afterwards West by South, which by Noon brought us into the Latitude of 9 degrees 30 minutes South, and Longitude 229 degrees 34 minutes West, and by our run from New Guinea ought to be in sight of Wessels Isle, which, according to the Chart is laid down about 20 or 25 Leagues from the coast of New Holland; but we saw nothing, by which I conclude that it is wrong laid down.

    And this is not to be wonder’d at when we consider that not only these Islands, but the lands which bound this Sea have been discover’d and explored by different people and at different times, and compiled and put together by others, perhaps some Ages after the first discoveries were made. Navigation formerly wanted many of these helps towards keeping an Accurate Journal which the present Age is possessed of; it is not they that are wholy to blame for the faultiness of the Charts, but the Compilers and Publishers, who publish to the world the rude Sketches of the Navigator as Accurate surveys, without telling what authority they have for so doing; for were they to do this we should then be as good or better judge than they, and know where to depend upon the Charts, and where not. Neither can I clear Seamen of this fault; among the few I have known who are Capable of drawing a Chart or Sketch of a Sea Coast I have generally, nay, almost always, observed them run into this error.

    I have known them lay down the line of a Coast they have never seen, and put down Soundings where they never have sounded; and, after all, are so fond of their performances as to pass the whole off as Sterling under the Title of a Survey Plan, etc. These things must in time be attended with bad Consequences, and cannot fail of bringing the whole of their works in disrepute.* (* Cook had good reason for writing thus, and being himself scrupulously honest and careful, he felt this scamped work to be a disgrace to seamen.) If he is so modest as to say, Such and such parts, or the whole of his plan is defective, the Publishers or Vendures will have it left out, because they say it hurts the sale of the work; so that between the one and the other we can hardly tell when we are possessed of a good Sea Chart until we ourselves have proved it.

  438. 8 September 1770

    High Seas from the East

    Saturday, 8th. Winds Easterly, with a high Sea from the same Quarter. Our Course and distance sail’d this 24 Hours is South 86 degrees 30 minutes West, 102 Miles; Latitude in 9 degrees 36 minutes South, Longitude 231 degrees 17 minutes West.

  439. 9 September 1770

    Light Airs and a Southward Current

    Sunday, 9th. Light Airs and Clear weather the most part of this 24 Hours. In the evening found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 0 degrees 12 minutes West, and by the Amplitude 0 degrees 5 minutes West. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees 46 minutes South, Longitude 232 degrees 7 minutes West. Course and distance sail’d since yesterday at Noon South 78 degrees 45 minutes West, 52 Miles.

    For these 2 days past we have steer’d due West, and yet we have by observation made 16 Miles Southing–6 Miles Yesterday and 10 to-day; from which it should seem that there is a Current setting to the Southward and Westward withall, as I should suppose.

  440. 10 September 1770

    Sightings of Timor or Timor Land

    Monday, 10th. Light Airs Easterly, except in the morning, when we had it at North; at sunset found the Variation to be 0 degrees 2 minutes West, at the same time saw, or thought we saw, very high land bearing North-West, and in the Morning saw the same appearances of land in the same Quarter, which left us no room to doubt but what it was land, and must be either the Island of Timor land or Timor, but which of the 2 I cannot as yet determine.* (* This was Timor. What Cook calls Timor land is probably Timor Laut, another name for the principal island of the Tenimber Group.) At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 1 minute South, which was 15 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log. Longitude in per Observation 233 degrees 27 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  441. 11 September 1770

    Confirmation of Timor Island

    Tuesday, 11th. Variable light Airs and Clear weather. Steer’d North-West, in order to discover the Land plainer until 4 in the morning, at which time the wind came to North-West and West, with which we stood to the Southward until 9 o’Clock, when we Tack’d and stood North-West, having the wind at West-South-West. At sun rise in the morning we could see the land extend from West-North-West to North-East; at noon we could see it extend to the Westward as far as West by South 1/2 South, but no farther to the Eastward than North by East.

    We were now well assured that this was part of the Island of Timor, in consequence of which the last Island we saw must have been Timor land, the South part of which lies in the Latitude of 8 degrees 15 minutes South, Longitude 228 degrees 10 minutes, whereas in the Charts the South Point is laid down in Latitude 9 degrees 30 minutes. It is possible that the Land we saw might be some other Island; but then I cannot see how we could have miss’d seeing Timor land, soposing it to be right laid down in Latitude, as we were never to the Southward of 9 degrees 30 minutes; for my design was to have made that Island, and to have landed upon it to have seen what it produced, as it is (according to the Charts) a large Island, and not settled by the Dutch that I ever heard off. We were now in the Latitude of 9 degrees 37 minutes, Longitude 233 degrees 54 minutes West by observation of the Sun and Moon, and Yesterday we were by Observation in 233 degrees 27 minutes West. The difference is 27 minutes, which is exactly the same as what the Log gave; this, however, is a degree of accuracy in observation that is seldom to be expected.

  442. 12 September 1770

    Near the Shores of Timor

    Wednesday, 12th. Winds between the South and West, a light breeze and Clear weather in the P.M.; stood in shore until 8 o’Clock, then Tack’d and stood off, being about 6 Leagues from the Land, which at dark extend from South-West 1/2 West to North-East; at this time we sounded and had no ground with 140 fathoms of line, being not above 4 Leagues from the Land. At 12 o’Clock we Tack’d and stood in, having but little wind, and continued so until noon, at which time we were by Observation in Latitude 9 degrees 36 minutes South; the Log this 24 Hours gave 18 Miles Westing, but it did not appear by the land that we had made so much. We saw several Smoaks upon the Land by day, and fires in the Night.

  443. 13 September 1770

    Coasting Near a Shallow Inlet

    Thursday, 13th. Stood in shore, with a light breeze at South by West until 1/2 past 5 o’Clock in the P.M., when, being a Mile and a 1/2 from the Shore, and in 16 fathoms, we tack’d and stood off. At this time the Extreams of the Land extended from North-East by East to West by South 1/2 South; this last was a low point, distant from us about 3 Leagues. We were right before a small Creek or Inlet into the low land, which lies in the Latitude of 9 degrees 34 minutes South. Probably it might be the same as Dampier went into in his Boat, for it did not seem to have depth of Water sufficient for anything else.

    In standing in shore we sounded several times, but found no soundings until we got within 2 1/2 Miles of the Shore, where we had 25 fathoms, soft bottom. We stood off Shore until 12 o’Clock, with the wind at South, then Tack’d and stood to the Westward 2 Hours, when the wind veer’d to the South-West and West-South-West, and then we stood to the Southward. In the Morning found the Variation to be 1 degree 10 minutes West by the Amplitude, and by the Azimuth 1 degree 27 minutes West; at Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees 45 minutes South, Longitude 234 degrees 12 minutes West, and about 6 or 7 Leagues from the land, which extended from North 31 degrees East to West-South-West 1/2 West. Winds at South-South-West, a Gentle breeze.

  444. 14 September 1770

    Slow Progress with Light Breezes

    Friday, 14th. Light Land and Sea breezes; the former we had from West by North, and only a few hours in the morning, the latter we had from the South-South-West and South. With these winds we advanced but slowly to the Westward. At Noon we were about 6 or 7 Leagues from the Land, which extended from North by East to South 78 degrees West; our Latitude by Observation was 9 degrees 54 minutes South. Course and Distance sail’d since Yesterday noon South 68 degrees West, 24 Miles. We saw several Smoakes ashore in the P.M., and fires in the night, both upon the Low land and up in the Mountains.

  445. 15 September 1770

    Light Winds and Coastal Sightings

    Saturday, 15th. In the P.M. had the Sea breezes at South-South-West and South, with which we stood to the Westward until 8 o’Clock, when being about 3 Leagues from the Land, and having very little wind, we tack’d and lay her Head off Shore. At 11 o’Clock we got the Land wind at North by West, with which we steer’d South-West by West along shore, keeping about 4 or 5 Miles from the Land on which in the morning we saw several Houses, Plantations, etc. At 9 o’Clock we got the wind at North-East by East, a light breeze; at Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Land, which extended as far to the Southward as South-West by West; our Latitude by observation was 10 degrees 1 minute South. Course and Distance sail’d since Yesterday at Noon South 78 degrees 45 minutes West, 36 Miles.

  446. 16 September 1770

    Passing Timor and Sightings of Rotte

    Sunday, 16th. Light breezes from the North-East by East, with clear weather, except in the morning, when we had it cloudy, with a few small Showers of Rain. Steer’d along shore South-West and South-West by West until 6 o’Clock in the morning, when we steer’d West-South-West, and at 9, West, at which time we saw the Island Rotte right ahead. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 10 degrees 39 minutes, Longitude 235 degrees 57 minutes; the South end of Timor bore North-North-West, distant 5 or 6 Leagues; the Island of Rotte extending from South 75 degrees West to North 67 degrees West, and the Island of Anaboa as Dampier calls it, or Seman as it is called in the Charts, which lies off the South end of Timor, bore North-West.

    Course and distance sail’d since Yesterday noon South 55 degrees 15 minutes West, 67 Miles. Dampier, who has given us a large and, so far as I know, an Accurate discription of the Island of Timor, says that it is 70 Leagues long and 16 Broad, and that it lies North-East and South-West. I found the East side to lie nearest North-East by East and South-West by West, and the South end to lie in the Latitude 10 degrees 23 minutes South, Longitude 236 degrees 5 minutes West from Greenwich. We run about 45 Leagues along the East side, which I observed to be free from Danger, and, excepting near the South end, the Land which bounds the Sea is low for 2, 3, or 4 Miles inland, and seem’d in many places to be intersected with Salt Creeks. Behind the low land are Mountains, which rise one above another to a considerable height. We continually saw upon it smoakes by day and fires by night, and in many places houses and plantations. I was strongly importuned by some of my Officers to go to the Dutch settlement at Concordia, on this Island, for refreshments; but this I refused to comply with, knowing that the Dutch look upon all Europeans with a Jealous Eye that come among these Islands, and our necessities were not so great as to oblige me to put into a place where I might expect to be but indifferently treated.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  447. 17 September 1770

    Approaching and Landing at Savu

    Monday, 17th. Winds Easterly, with which we steer’d West-North-West until 2 o’Clock, when being pretty near the North end of Rotte, we hauled up North-North-West, in order to go between it and Anaboa. After steering 3 Leagues upon this Course we edged away North-West by West, and by 6 we were clear of all the Islands; at this time the South part of Anaboa, which lies in the Latitude of 10 degrees 15 minutes South, bore North-East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Island of Rotte extending as far to the Southward as South 36 degrees West. The North End of this Island and the South end of Timor lies North 1/2 East and 1/2 West, distant about 3 or 4 Leagues from each other. At the West end of the Passage between Rotte and Anaboa are two Small Islands; the one lays near the Rotte shore and the other off the South-West point of Anaboa; there is a good Channel between the 2 of 5 or 6 Miles broad, which we came thro’.

    Being now clear of the Islands we steer’d a West course all night until 6 a.m., when we unexpectedly saw an Island bearing West-South-West, for by most of the Maps we had on board we were to the Southward of all the Islands that lay between Timor and Java; at least there were none laid down so near Timor in this Latitude by almost one half, which made me at first think it a new discovery; but in this I was mistaken. We now steer’d directly for it, and by 10 o’Clock were close in with the North side, where we saw Houses, Cocoa Nutt Trees, and a Flock of Cattle grazing; these were Temptations hardly to be withstood by people in our situation, especially such as were but in a very indifferent State of Health, and I may say mind too, for in some this last was worse than the other, since I refused to touch at the Island of Timor, whereupon I thought I could not do less than to try to procure some refreshments here, as there appeared to be plenty.

    With this View we hoisted out the Pinnace, in which I sent Lieutenant Gore in shore to see if there were any Convenient place to land, sending some trifles along with him to give to the Natives in case he saw any. Mr. Gore landed in a small sandy cove near to some Houses, and was met on the beach by 8 or 10 of the people, who from both their behaviour and what they had about them shew’d that they had Commerce with Europeans; upon Mr. Gore’s returning with this report, and likewise that there was No Anchorage for the Ship, I sent him away with both money and goods to try to purchase some refreshments, while we keept standing on and off with the Ship. At Noon we were about a Mile from the Shore of the Island, which extends from South-East to West-North-West, Latitude 10 degrees 27 minutes, Longitude 237 degrees 31 minutes West.

  448. 18 September 1770

    Anchoring at Savu and Meeting the King

    Tuesday, 18th. As soon as Mr. Gore landed he was meet on the beach by several people, both Horse and Foot, who gave him to understand that there was a Bay to Leeward where we could Anchor, and likewise get refreshments. Upon Mr. Gore’s return with this intelligence we bore away for the Bay, in which we Anchor’d at 7 o’Clock in 38 fathoms Water, Clean sandy bottom. About a Mile from Shore the North point of the Bay bore North 30 degrees East, 2 1/2 Miles, and the South point or West end of the Island bore South 63 degrees West. Two hours before we Anchor’d we saw Dutch Colours hoisted in a Village which stands about a Mile inland, and at day light in the Morning the same Colours were hoisted on the beach abreast of the Ship. By this I was no longer in doubt but what here was a Dutch settlement, and accordingly sent Lieutenant Gore on shore to wait upon the Governor, or chief person residing here, to acquaint him with the reasons that induced us to touch at this Island. Upon Mr. Gore’s landing we could perceive that he was received by a Guard of the Natives, and not Dutch Troops, and Conducted up to the Village where the Colours were hoisted last night. Some time after this I received a message from him, acquainting me that he was there with the king of the Island, who had told him that he could not supply him with anything without leave from the Dutch Governor, who resided at another part of the Island, but that he had sent to acquaint him of our Arrival and request.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  449. 19 September 1770

    Visit from the Dutch Governor and the King

    Wednesday, 19th. At 2 P.M. the Dutch Governor, and king of this part of the Island, with his attendance, came on board with Mr. Gore (he having left 2 Gentlemen ashore as Hostages). We entertained them at Dinner in the best Manner we could, gave them plenty of good Liquor, made them some considerable presents, and at their going away Saluted them with 9 Guns. In return for these favours they made many fair Promises that we should be immediately supplied with everything we wanted at the same price the Dutch East India Company had it; and that in the morning Buffaloes, Hogs, Sheep, etc., should be down on the beach for us to look at, and agree upon a price.

    I was not at all at a loss for Interpreters, for both Dr. Solander and Mr. Sporing understood Dutch enough to keep up a Conversation with the Dutchman, and several of the Natives could speak Portuguese, which language 2 or 3 of my people understood. In the morning I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and several of the Officers and Gentlemen, to return the King’s Visit; but my Chief Business was to see how well they would perform their Promises in regard to the things I wanted. We had not been long ashore before we found that they had promised more than they ever intended to perform; for, instead of finding Buffaloes upon the beach, we did not so much as see one, or the least preparations making for bringing any down, either by the Dutch Factor or the King.

    The former pretended he had been very ill all night, and told us that he had had a letter from the Governor of Concordia in Timor, acquainting him that a ship (meaning us) had lately passed that Island, and that if she should touch at this, and be in want of anything, he was to supply her; but he was not to suffer her to make any stay, nor to distribute, or leave behind her to be distributed, any valuable presents to the inferior Natives. This we looked upon to be Afection that hardly answer’d any purpose, unless it was leting us see how the Dutch had insinuated themselves into favour with these people, which never could be his intention. However, both he and the King still promised we should have what we wanted, but pretended the Buffaloes were far in the Country, and could not be brought down before night. With these excuses we were obliged to be satisfied. The King gave us a dinner of boil’d Pork and Rice, served up in Baskets after their manner, and Palm wine to drink; with this, and some of our own Liquor, we fair’d Tolerable well. After we had dined our Servants were called in to pertake of what remain’d, which was more than they could Eat.

  450. 20 September 1770

    Trade Difficulties and Departure from Savu

    Thursday, 20th. We stay’d at the King’s Pallace all the Afternoon, and at last were obliged to return on board without doing anything farther than a promise of having some Buffaloes in the morning; which we had now no great reason to rely on. In the morning I went on shore again, and was showed one small Buffaloe, which they asked 5 Guineas for. I offer’d 3, which the man told me he would gladly take, and sent a Message to the king to let him know what I had offer’d. The Messenger soon return’d, and let me know that I could not have it under 5 Guineas; and this I refused to give, knowing it was not worth one fifth part of the money. But this, my refusal, had like to have overset all we had before done, for soon after about 100 Men, some Arm’d with Musquets, others with Lances, came down to the Landing Place.

    Besides the officer that commanded this party, there came along with them a Man who spoke Portuguese, and I believe was born of Portuguese Parents. This man is here (as we afterwards Understood) as an Assistant to the Dutch Factor. He deliver’d to me the King’s order, or rather those of the Dutch Factor, the purport of which was that we were to stay no longer than this day, pretending that the people would not trade with us because we wanted their provisions for nothing, etc.; whereas the Natives shew’d the greatest inclination imaginable to supply us with whatever they had, and were far more desirous of goods than money, and were, before this man came, selling us Fowls and Syrup as fast as they could bring these things down. From this and other Circumstances we were well Assured that this was all the Dutchman’s doing, in order to extort from us a sum of Money to put into his own pocket.

    There hapned to be an old Raja at this time upon the beach, whose Interest I had secured in the Morning by presenting him with a Spy-glass; this man I now took by the hand, and presented him with an old broad sword. This effectually secured him in our Interest, for the Moment he got it he began to flourish it over the old Portuguese, and made him and the Officer commanded the party to sit down at his back side. Immediately after this trade was restored again for Fowls, etc., with more Spirit than ever; but before I could begin a Trade for Buffaloes, which was what we most wanted, I was obliged to give 10 Guineas for 2, one of which weigh’d only 160 pounds. After this I bought 7 more at a more reasonable price, one of which we lost after he was paid for. I might now have purchased as many as I pleased, for they now drove them down to the Water side by Herds; but having got as many as I well know’d what to do with, and likewise a number of Fowls, and a large quantity of Syrup, I resolved to make no longer stay.

  451. 21 September 1770

    Departure from Savu

    Friday, 21st. We got under sail, and stood away to the Westward along the North side of the Island, and another smaller Island, which lies farther to the Westward, which last bore from us at Noon South-South-East, distant 2 Leagues.

  452. 22 September 1770

    Discovery of a Small Island

    Saturday, 22nd. Winds at South-South-East, South-East, and East; a gentle breeze, which we steer’d West-South-West by Compass. At 4 o’Clock we discover’d a small low Island* (* Dama Island.) bearing South-South-West, distant 3 Leagues. The Island hath no place in any of our Charts: Latitude 10 degrees 47 minutes South, Longitude 238 degrees 28 minutes West. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 11 degrees 9 minutes South, Longitude 239 degrees 26 minutes West. Course and distance sail’d since yesterday noon, South 63 West, 67 miles.

  453. 23 September 1770

    Westward Progress in Moderate Breeze

    Sunday, 23rd. Winds Easterly; a moderate breeze, which by noon brought us into the Latitude of 11 degrees 10 minutes South, Longitude 240 degrees 48 minutes West. Course and distance saild since yesterday at noon is West, 8 miles.

  454. 24 September 1770

    Sailing in Pleasant Weather

    Monday, 24th. Winds at East and South-East; a moderate breeze, and fine, pleasant weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 2 degrees 44 minutes West. At noon our Latitude was 11 degrees 8 minutes South, Longitude 242 degrees 13 minutes West. Since we have been clear of the Islands we have had constantly a swell from the Southward which I do not suppose is owing to the winds blowing anywhere from thence, but to the Sea, being so determined by the portion of the Coast of New Holland.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

     

  455. 25 September 1770

    Clear and Pleasant Weather

    Tuesday, 25th. Moderate breezes at South-East, and clear, pleasant weather. At Noon our Latitude was 11 degrees 13 minutes South, and Longitude 244 degrees 41″ West.

  456. 26 September 1770

    Steady Winds and Fair Weather

    Wednesday, 26th. Winds and weather as yesterday. At Noon Latitude in 11 degrees 10 minutes, Longitude 245 degrees 41″ West.

  457. 27 September 1770

    Unaccounted Northern Drift

    Thursday, 27th. Winds at South-South-East; a fresh breeze. In the evening found the variation to be 3 degrees 10 minutes West. At noon we were in the Longitude of 247 degrees 42 minutes West, and Latitude 10 degrees 47 minutes, which is 25 Miles to the Northward of the Log, which I know not how to account for.

  458. 28 September 1770

    Fresh Breeze and Passing Showers

    Friday, 28th. Winds at South-South-East and South-East; a fresh breeze and Cloudy, with some Showers of rain. At Noon Latitude observed 10 degrees 51 minutes South, which is agreeable to the Logg, Longitude in 250 degrees 9 minutes, West.

  459. 29 September 1770

    Fair Weather and Course Toward Java

    Saturday, 29th. Moderate breeze at South-East and clear pleasant weather, Steer’d North-West all this day, in order to make the land of Java. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees 31 minutes South and Longitude 251 degrees 40 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  460. 30 September 1770

    Logs Collected and Course to the Northwest

    Sunday, 30th. Fresh gales and fair weather. In the A.M. I took into my possession the Officers’, Petty Officers’ and Seamen’s Log Books and Journals, at least all that I could find, and enjoin’d every one not to divulge where they had been.* (* These logs are now in the Public Record Office. Mr. Green’s log ends on the 2nd October. Not being an officer, Cook doubtless overlooked it at first. This log should by rights have been returned to Mr. Green, but as he died shortly after leaving Batavia, it has found its way, with the others, to the Record Office.) At noon our Course and distance sail’d since Yesterday at noon, is North 20 degrees West, 126 Miles, which brought us into the Latitude of 7 degrees 34 minutes South and Longitude 252 degrees 23 minutes West.

  461. 1 October 1770

    Landfall Near Java Head

    Monday, 1st October.

    First and latter parts fresh breezes at South-East and fair weather; the Middle squally with Lightning and rain. At 7 p.m., being then in the Latitude of Java head, and not seeing any land, assured us that we had got too far to the Westward; upon which we hauld up East-North-East, having before Steerd North by East. At 12 o’Clock saw the Land bearing East, Tack’d, and stood to the South-West until 4, then stood again to the Eastward, having very unsettled squally weather which split the Main Topsail very much, and obliged us to bend the other.

    Many of our Sails are now so bad that they will hardly stand the least puff of Wind. At 6 o’Clock Java head, on the West end of Java, bore South-East by East, distant 5 Leagues; soon after this saw Princes Island, bearing East 1/2 South. At 10 o’Clock saw the Island of Cracatoa (The great eruption, and consequent destruction of the larger part of this island in 1883, will be remembered. It lies in the centre of Sunda Strait.) bearing North-East, distant 7 Leagues; Princes Island extending from South 53 degrees East to South by West, distant 3 Leagues.

    Course and distance saild since Yesterday at Noon is North 24 degrees 30 minutes East, 70 Miles. Latitude in per Observation, 6 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude 251 degrees 54 minutes; but either our Longitude must be erroneous or the Straits of Sunda must be faltily laid down in all Books and Charts; but this no doubt we shall have an opportunity to settle. (Cook’s longitude was in error nearly three degrees. No lunars had been taken since they left Savu, and there is a current running westward. It is a good example of the error of dead reckoning, even with the most careful of navigators.)

  462. 2 October 1770

    Light Airs and Calms Near Anger Point

    Tuesday, 2nd. In the P.M., had the wind at South-South-East, South-East by South and South-South-East, with which we stood to the Eastward close upon a wind. At 6 o’Clock the Hill on Princes Island bore South-West by South, and Cracatoa Island, North 10 Miles; in this situation had 58 fathoms, standing still to the Eastward. At 8 o’Clock had 52 fathoms, muddy bottom, at 10 23 fathoms. By 4 in the morning we fetched close in with the Java shore in 15 fathoms, then steer’d along shore. At 5 it fell Calm, which continued with some Variable light Airs until noon, at which time Anger Point bore North-East, distant 1 League, and Thwart-the-way Island North. In the morning I sent a Boat ashore to try to get some fruits for Tupia, who is very ill, and, likewise, to get some grass, etc., for the Buffaloes we have still left. The Boats return’d with only 4 Cocoa Nutts, a small bunch of Plantains, which they purchased of the Natives for a Shilling, and a few Shrubs for the Cattle.

  463. 3 October 1770

    Anchored Off Java and News from the Dutch

    Wednesday, 3rd. Soon after 12 o’Clock it fell quite Calm, which obliged us to Anchor in 18 fathoms, Muddy bottom, about 2 Miles from shore, where we found a strong Current setting to the South-West. Not long before we Anchor’d we saw a Dutch Ship laying off Anger Point, on board which I sent Mr. Hicks to enquire after News.* (* It will be recollected that the Endeavour was now two years and two months from England, without the slightest chance of any news from home. We can imagine the anxiety and excitement on board on thus approaching civilisation, though they had no prospect of personal letters. With the frequent communication of modern times, we can scarcely realise such circumstances, and should certainly consider them as an exceeding hardship.)

    Upon his return he inform’d me that there were 2 Dutch Ships from Batavia, one bound for Ceylon, and the other to the Coast of Mallabar, besides a small Fly-boat or Packet, which is stationed here to carry all Packets, Letters, etc., from all Dutch Ships to Batavia; but it seems more Probable that she is stationed here to examine all Ships that pass and repass these Straits. We now first heard the agreeable news of His Majesty’s Sloop The Swallow being at Batavia about 2 Years ago.* (* The Swallow, Captain Cartaret, had sailed with the Dolphin in 1766, but separated from her on emerging from the Strait of Magellan. The Dolphin had reached England some months before Cook sailed, but nothing had been heard of the Swallow, and fears were entertained of her loss.)

    At 7 o’Clock a breeze sprung up at South-South-West, with which we weighed and stood to the North-East between Thwart-the-way Island and the Cap:* (* Thwart-the-Way is an island that lies right across the fairway of Sunda Strait. The Cap is another smaller island that lies North-East of it.) soundings from 18 to 26 fathoms. We had but little Wind all night, and having a Strong Current against us, we got no further by 8 o’Clock in the morning than under Bantam Point. At this time the wind came to North-East, and obliged us to Anchor in 22 fathoms about 2 Miles from the Shore. The above point bore North-East by East, distant 1 League.

    Here we found a strong Current setting to the North-West. In the morning we saw the Dutch packet standing after us, but after the wind Shifted to the North-East she bore away. One of the Dutch Captains told Mr. Hicks yesterday that the Current sets constantly to the South-Westward, and that it would continue to set so for a Month or Six Weeks longer.

  464. 4 October 1770

    The Dutch Packet and a Difficult Passage

    Thursday, 4th. In the P.M. had the wind at North-East by North, which obliged us to lay fast. About 6 o’Clock in the evening one of the Country Boats came alongside in which was the Commander of the Packet before mentioned; he seem’d to have 2 Motives for coming, one to take an account of the Ship, and the other to sell us refreshments, for in the Boat were Turtle, Fowls, Birds, etc., all of which they held at a pretty high Price, and had brought to a bad market, as our Savu stock was not all expended. I gave a Spanish Dollar for a small Turtle which weighed only 36 pounds.

    With respect to the Ship, he wanted to know her name, the Captain’s, the place we came last from and were bound, as I would not see him myself. I order’d that no account should be given him from whence we came; but Mr. Hicks, who wrote the Ship’s name down in his book, put down from Europe. Seeing this he expressed some surprise, and said that we might write down what we pleased, for it was of no other use than for the information of such of our Country men as might pass these Streights.

    At 7 o’Clock a light breeze sprung up at South-South-East, with which we got under sail. At 1 A.M. Anchor’d again, having not wind to stem the Current which we found to run 3 Knotts; at 2 o’Clock we weighed again, but, finding that we lost ground, we were obliged to Anchor in 18 fathoms, the Island Pulo Morack, which lies close under the Shore 3 Miles to the Westward of Bantam Point: bore South-East by South, distance 1 1/2 miles. Latitude observed, 5 degrees 55 minutes South.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  465. 5 October 1770

    Dutch Inquiry and Official Questions

    Friday, 5th. At 5 in the P.M. we weighed with a light breeze at South-West by South, which continued not long before it fell Calm, and obliged us to Anchor again. At 1 o’Clock we weigh’d with the Land wind at South-South-East, which died away in the Morning, and the Current running strong against us we Anchor’d in 17 fathoms.

    A little before this, a Proe came alongside, wherein was a Dutch Officer who came upon the same business as the other. He sent me down a printed paper in English containing 9 Articles or Questions, of which this is a Copy.

    “The Commanders and Officers of the Ships where this Paper may be presented, will be pleased to answer on the following Questions: viz.

    1. To what Nation the Ship belongs, and its Name.
    2. If it comes from Europe or any other place.
    3. From what place it lastly departed from.
    4. Where unto design’d to go.
    5. What, and how many, ships of the Dutch Company by departure from the last shore there lay’d, and their names.
    6. If one or more of these ships in Company with this is departed for this or any other place.
    7. If during the Voyage any particularity is hapned or seen.
    8. If not any ships in Sea, or the Streights of Sunda have seen or Hail’d in, and which.
    9. If any other News worth Attention at the place from whence the Ship lastly departed or during the voyage is hapned.”
  466. 6 October 1770

    Anchored Under Bantam Point

    Saturday, 6th. At 2 o’Clock P.M., finding we could not stem the Current, we anchor’d with the Kedge Anchor under Bantam Point, where we lay until 9. At that time, the Current made slowly to the Eastward, and a light breeze springing up, we weigh’d and stood to the East until 10 o’Clock in the A.M.

    The Current then oblig’d us again to Anchor in 22 fathoms, Pula Baba bearing East by South 1/2 South, distant 3 or 4 Miles. Our sounding from Bantam Point to this place was from 36 to 22 fathoms.

  467. 7 October 1770

    Struggling Against the Current

    Sunday, 7th. Light Air from the Southward with frequent Calms. At 6 o’Clock P.M., weighed with a light breeze at South-South-West, which was not sufficient to stem the current, and was therefore obliged to come too again, in 15 fathoms.

    At 10 o’Clock weighed again and stood to the Eastward with the Wind at South-South-East. At 11 A.M., Anchor’d in 21 fathoms, the West end of Wapping Island bore South, distant 3 Miles, and the Thousand Islands North by East 1/2 East, distant 3 or 4 Miles. Found the Current still set to the Westward.

  468. 8 October 1770

    Calms, Currents, and Trade with Malays

    Monday, 8th. Had it Calm until 4 in the P.M., when we got the Sea breeze at North-East very faint, with which we weighed and stood to the Eastward, past Wapping Island, and the first Island to the Eastward of it. Falling little wind we were carried by the Current between this last Island and the 2nd Island to the Eastward of Wapping Island, where we were obliged to Anchor in 30 fathoms, being very near a ledge of Rocks which spitted out from one of the Islands.

    At 1/2 past 2 o’Clock in the A.M., weighed with the land wind at South and stood out clear of the shoal, where we were again obliged to come to an Anchor, having Variable light winds attended with Thunder and rain. At 5 o’Clock the weather being fair, and a light breeze at South, we weighed, but making little or no way against the Current, we soon came too again, in 28 fathoms, near a small Island not laid down in the Charts; Pulo Pare bore East-North-East, distant 6 or 7 Miles.

    While we lay here a Proe came alongside, where in were 2 Malays, who sold us 3 Turtles, weighing 147 pounds, for a Spanish Dollar. Some on board thought them dear, but I thought they were cheap, founding my Judgment on the price the two Dutchmen that were on board before set upon those they had, one of which we paid a Dollar for, that weighed only 36 pounds.

  469. 9 October 1770

    Return via Batavia (Jakarta): Death and Disease

    After months of hardship along the Australian coast, the Endeavour was badly damaged and in need of a complete overhaul. Faced with the choice of returning home via Cape Horn, sailing directly to the Cape of Good Hope, or stopping for repairs, Cook decided to head for Batavia (then a Dutch colony), the nearest major port, though infamous for its deadly fevers.

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Tuesday, 9th. A little past Noon weigh’d with a light breeze at North-East, and stood to the Eastward until 5 o’Clock, when, not being able to weather Pulo Pare, we Anchor’d in 30 fathoms, the said Island extending from South-East to South-South-West, distant 1 Mile.

    At 10 got the land wind at South, with which we weighed and stood to the East-South-East all night; depth of water, from 30 to 22 fathoms, and from 22 to 16 fathoms. When we Anchor’d at 10 o’Clock in the A.M. to wait for the Sea breeze, the Island of Edam bore South-West by West, distant 6 or 7 Miles.

    At Noon we weighed and stood in for Batavia Road, having the advantage of the Sea breeze at North-North-East.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), October 9, 1770:

    “We were not able to weather Pulo Pare this day, but getting the land wind at south about ten o’clock at night, we weighed and stood to the E. S. E. all night. At ten in the morning, we anchored again, to wait for the sea breeze; and at noon it sprung up at N.N.E. with which we stood in for Batavia road, where at four o’clock in the afternoon we came to an anchor.

    We found here the Harcourt Indiaman from England, two English. private traders of that country, thirteen sail of large Dutch ships, and a considerable number of small vessels. A boat came immediately on board, from a ship which had a broad pendant flying, and the officer who commanded having enquired who we were, and whence we came, immediately returned with such answers as we thought fit to give him: both he and his people were as pale as spectres, a sad presage of our sufferings in so unhealthy a country; but our people, who, except Tupia, were all rosy and plump, seemed to think themselves so seasoned by various climates that nothing could hurt them: In the mean time, I sent a Lieutenant ashore to acquaint the Governor of our arrival, and to make an excuse for our not saluting; for as I could salute with only three guns, except the swivels, which I was of opinion would not be heard, I thought it was better to let it alone. As soon as the boat was dispatched the carpenter delivered me an account of the defects of the ship, of which the following is a copy:

    “The defects of his Majesty’s bark Endeavour, Lieutenant James Cook Commander.

    The ship very leaky, as she makes from twelve to six inches water an hour, occasioned by her main keel being wounded in many places, and the scarfs of her stern being very open: the false keel gone beyond the midships from forward, and perhaps farther, as I had no opportunity of seeing for the water when hauled ashore for repairing: wounded on the larboard side under the main channel, where I imagine the greatest leak is, but could not come at it for the water: one pump on the larboard side useless; the others decayed within an inch and an half of the bore. Otherwise masts, yards, boats, and hull, in pretty good condition.”

    As it was the universal opinion that the ship could not safely proceed to Europe without an examination of her bottom, I determined to apply for leave to heave her down at this place; and as I understood that it would be necessary to make this application in writing, I drew up a request, and the next morning, having got it translated into Dutch, we all went ashore.”

    Banks’s Journal, October 9, 1770:

    “A fine Land breeze which held the greatest part of the night ran us bymorn abreast of the Island of Edam so that we saw the vessels at anchor inBatavia road and Onrust Island. At 10 it left us and we anchord; by 11 itcleard up towards Batavia so much that we saw distinctly the Dome of thegreat church; at ½ after sea breeze set in and before 4 we were at anchorin Batavia Road. A boat came immediately on board us from a ship which had a broad Pendant flying, the officer on board her enquird who we were etc. and immediately returnd. Both himself and his people were almost as Spectres, no good omen of the healthyness of the countrey we were arrived at; our people however who truly might be calld rosy and plump, for we had not a sick man among us, Jeerd and flouted much at their brother seamens white faces. By this time our boat was ready which went ashore withthe first lieutenant who had orders to acquaint the commanding officerashore of our arrival. At night he returnd having met with a very civilreception from the Shabandar who tho no military officer took cognizanceof all these things. I forgot to mention before that we found here theHarcourt Indiaman Captn Paul and 2 English Private traders from the Coastof India.”

    ______

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  470. 11 October 1770

    Arrival at Batavia

    Wednesday, 10th, according to our reckoning, but by the people here Thursday, 11th. At 4 o’Clock in the P.M. Anchor’d in Batavia road, where we found the Harcourt Indiaman from England, 2 English Country Ships, 13 Sail of large Dutch Ships, and a number of small Vessels.

    As soon as we Anchor’d I sent Lieutenant Hicks a shore to acquaint the Governor of our Arrival, and to make an excuse for not Saluting; as we could only do it with 3 Guns I thought it was better let alone.

  471. 12 October 1770

    Meeting the Governor and a Narrow Escape from Lightning

    Friday, 12th. At 5 o’clock P.M. I was introduced to the Governor-General, who received me very politely and told me that I should have every thing I wanted, and that in the Morning my request should be laid before the Council where I was desir’d to attend.

    About 9 o’clock in the Evening we had much rain, with some very heavy Claps of Thunder, one of which carried away a Dutch Indiaman’s Main Mast by the Deck, and split it, the Maintopmast and Topgallantmast all to shivers. She had had an Iron Spindle at the Maintopgallant Mast head which had first attracted the Lightning.

    The ship lay about 2 Cable lengths from us, and we were struck with the Thunder at the same time, and in all probability we should have shared the same fate as the Dutchman, had it not been for the Electrical Chain which we had but just before got up; this carried the Lightning or Electrical matter over the side clear of the Ship. The Shock was so great as to shake the whole ship very sensibly.

    This instance alone is sufficient to recommend these Chains to all Ships whatever, and that of the Dutchman ought to Caution people from having Iron Spindles at their Mast heads.

  472. 13 October 1770

    Supplies for the Crew

    Saturday, 13th. Received on board a Cask of Arrack and some Greens for the Ship’s Company.

  473. 14 October 1770

    Preparing for Onrust and Sending News Home

    Sunday, 14th. Early this morning a ship sail’d from hence for Holland by which I had just time to write 2 or 3 lines to Mr. Stephens, Secretary of the Admiralty, to acquaint him of our Arrival, after which I went on shore and waited upon the Shabander, who has the direction of the Town, Port, etc., to get an order to the Superintendent at Onrust to receive us at that Island, but this, I was told, would not be ready before Tuesday next.

    Received from the Shore Fresh Beef and Greens for the Ship’s Company.

  474. 15 October 1770

    A Healthy Crew Arriving at Batavia

    This point is significant, as it further illustrates the effectiveness of Cook’s disciplined enforcement of dietary measures to preserve the crew’s health.

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Monday, 15th. Fresh Sea and land breezes and fair weather. I had forgot to mention, that upon our arrival here I had not one man upon the Sick List; Lieut. Hicks, Mr. Green, and Tupia were the only people that had any complaints occasioned by a long continuance at Sea.

    This was an uncommon circumstance, as most ships arriving at Batavia after long voyages across the Pacific came in with crews greatly reduced and weakened by scurvy. The fresh provisions obtained at Savu likely helped preserve the health of our people, and the care taken throughout the voyage proved most successful.”

    Excerpt from Banks’s Journal, October 9, 1770:

    “…A boat came immediately on board us from a ship whichhad a broad Pendant flying, the officer on board her enquird who we were etc. and immediately returnd. Both himself and his people were almost as Spectres, no good omen of the healthyness of the countrey we were arrived at; our people however who truly might be calld rosy and plump, for we had not a sick man among us, Jeerd and flouted much at their brother seamens white faces.”

     

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  475. 16 October 1770

    Request to the Governor for Funds

    Tuesday, 16th. Finding, by a strict inquiry, that there were no private person or persons in the place that could at this time advance me a sufficient sum of money to defray the charge I might be at in repairing and refitting the Ship—at least, if there were any, they would be afraid to do it without leave from the Governor—wherefore I had nothing left but to apply to the Governor himself, and accordingly drew up the following request, which I laid before the Governor and Council this morning, in consequence of which the Shebander had orders to supply me with what money I wanted out of the Company’s Treasure:–

    “Lieutenant James Cook, Commander of His Brittannick Majesty’s Bark the Endeavour, begs leave to represent to His Excellency the Right Honourable Petrus Albertus Van der Parra, Governor-General, etc., etc., That he will be in want of a Sum or Sums of Money in order to defray the Charge he will be at in repairing and refiting His Brittannick Majesty’s Ship at this place; which sum or sums of money he is directed by his Instructions, and empower’d by his commission, to give Bills of Exchange on the respective Offices which Superintend His Brittannick Majesty’s Navy.

    “The said Lieutenant James Cook Requests of His Excellency, That he will be pleased to order him to be supply’d with such sum or sums of money, either out of the Company’s Treasure, or permit such private persons to do it as may be willing to advance money for Bills of Exchange on the Honourable and Principal Officers and Commissioners of His Brittannick Majesty’s Navy, the Commissioners for Victualling His Majesty’s Navy, and the Commissioners for taking care of the Sick and Hurt.

    “Dated on board His Brittannick Majesty’s Bark the Endeavour, in Batavia Road, the 16th of October, 1770.”

  476. 17 October 1770

    Delay Due to Translation Error

    Wednesday, 17th. In the P.M. I waited upon the Superintendent of Onrust, with an order from the Shebander, to receive us at that Island, but this order, the Superintendent told me, was not sufficient to impower him to give me the conveniences and assistance I wanted.

    When I came to call upon the Shebander, I found this mistake was owing to the word “heave down” being wrong translated. This circumstance, trifling as it is, will cause a delay of some days, as it cannot be set to rights until next Council day, which is not till Friday.

  477. 18 October 1770

    Arrival at Onrust and Seeking Permission to Land Stores

    Thursday, 18th. In the P.M. received on board 2 live Oxen, 150 Gallons of Arrack, 3 Barrels of Tar, and one of Pitch; at daylight in the A.M. took up our Anchor and run down to Onrust.

    At 9 Anchor’d in 7 fathoms off Coopers Island, which lies close to Onrust. There are wharfs at both of these Islands, and ships land their stores, sometimes on the one and sometimes on the other, but it is only at Onrust where the proper conveniences are for heaving down.

    Soon after we Anchor’d I went on shore to the Officer of the Yard, to see if they could not allow us some place to land our stores, but this could not be granted without orders.

  478. 19 October 1770

    Efforts to Expedite Orders from Batavia

    Friday, 19th. In the P.M. I sent a Petty Officer to Mr. Hicks, who lodges ashore at Batavia for the recovery of his health, with orders to desire him to wait upon the Shebander, in order to get the necessary orders respecting us dispatched to this place as soon as possible.

  479. 20 October 1770

    Unrigging the ship

    Saturday, 20th. Employ’d unrigging the ship, etc.

  480. 21 October 1770

    Orders Granted but No Wharf Available

    Sunday, 21st. In the P.M. orders came down to the Officers of the yard to comply with everything I wanted, but we could not yet get a wharf to land our stores, they being all taken up by shipping.

  481. 22 October 1770

    Preparing to Move Alongside the Wharf

    Monday, 22nd. In the A.M. two ships went from the wharfs at Coopers Island, when we prepared to go alongside one of them.

  482. 23 October 1770

    Ship Delivered for Repairs at Onrust

     

    Tuesday, 23rd. In the P.M. hauled alongside one of the wharfs, in order to take out our stores, etc., after which the ship is to be delivered into the charge of the proper officers at Onrust, who will (as I am informed) heave her down, and repair her, with their own people, while ours must stand and look on, who, if we were permitted, could do everything wanting to the ship ourselves.

  483. 24 October 1770

    Clearing the Ship and Sending Dispatches Home

    Wednesday, 24th. Employed clearing the ship, having a storehouse to put our stores, etc., in. In the P.M. I went up to town in order to put on board the first Dutch ship that sails a packet for the Admiralty containing a copy of my journal, a chart of the South Sea, another of New Zealand, and one of the East Coast of New Holland.

    In the morning the General, accompanied by the Water Fiscall, some of the Council, and the Commodore, each in their respective boats, went out into the road on board the oldest captain, in order to appoint him Commodore of the fleet ready to sail for Holland. The ships were drawn up in two lines, between which the General passed to the new Commodore’s ship, which lay the farthest out.

    Each ship, as he passed and repassed, gave him three cheers, and as soon as he was on board and the Dutch flag hoisted at the main topmast head, the other Commodore saluted him with twenty-one guns, and immediately after struck his broad pendant, which was again hoisted as soon as the General left the other ship. He was then saluted with seventeen guns by the new-made Commodore, who now hoisted a common pendant.

    This ceremony of appointing a Commodore over the Grand Fleet, as they call it, we were told is yearly performed. I went out in my boat on purpose to see it, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, because we were told it was one of the grandest sights Batavia afforded; that may be too, and yet it did not recompense us for our trouble. I thought that the whole was but ill conducted, and the fleet appeared to be very badly manned. This fleet consists of ten or twelve stout ships; not only these, but all or most of their other ships are pierced for fifty guns, but have only their upper tier mounted, and these are more by half than they have men to fight.

  484. 25 October 1770

    Admiralty Packet and Dispatch to London

    Thursday, 25th. In the evening I sent the Admiralty packet on board the Kronenburg, Captain Fredrick Kelger, Commodore, who, together with another ship, sails immediately for the Cape, where she waits for the remainder of the fleet.

    The following letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty was also dispatched:

    “To Philip Stephens, Esq.

    Sir,

    Please to acquaint my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty that I left Rio de Janeiro the 8th of December, 1768, and on the 16th of January following arrived in Success Bay in Straits La Maire, where we recruited our wood and water. On the 21st of the same month we quitted Straits La Maire, and arrived at George’s Island on the 13th of April.

    In our passage to this island I made a far more westerly track than any ship had ever done before; yet it was attended with no discovery until we arrived within the Tropick, where we discovered several islands. We met with as friendly a reception by the natives of George’s Island as I could wish, and I took care to secure ourselves in such a manner as to put it out of the power of the whole island to drive us off.

    Some days preceding the 3rd of June I sent Lieutenant Hicks to the eastern part of this island, and Lieutenant Gore to York Island, with others of the officers (Mr. Green having furnished them with instruments) to observe the transit of Venus, that we may have the better chance of succeeding should the day prove unfavourable. We were so fortunate that the observations were everywhere attended with every favourable circumstance.

    It was the 13th of July before I was ready to quit this island, after which I spent near a month in exploring some other islands to the westward before steering south. On the 14th of August we discovered a small island in latitude 22°27′ S, longitude 150°47′ W. After quitting this island I steered south, inclining a little east, until we arrived in latitude 40°12′ S without seeing the least sign of land.

    After this I steered westward between latitudes 30° and 40° until the 6th of October, on which day we discovered the east coast of New Zealand, which I found to consist of two large islands, extending from 34° to 48° S, both of which I circumnavigated. On the 1st of April, 1770, I quitted New Zealand and steered westward until I fell in with the east coast of New Holland in latitude 30° S.

    I coasted this country to the north, putting in at such places as I saw convenient, until we arrived in latitude 15°45′ S, where, on the night of the 10th of June, we struck upon a reef of rocks, where we lay twenty-three hours and received some very considerable damage. This proved a fatal stroke to the remainder of the voyage, as we were obliged to take shelter in the first port we met with, where we were detained repairing the damage until the 4th of August, and after all put to sea with a leaky ship.

    We afterwards coasted northward through the most dangerous navigation that perhaps ever ship was in, until the 22nd of the same month, when, being in latitude 10°30′ S, we found a passage into the Indian Sea between the northern extremity of New Holland and New Guinea. After getting through, I stood for the coast of New Guinea, which we made on the 29th, but as we found it absolutely necessary to heave the ship down to stop her leaks before proceeding home, I made no stay here, but quitted this coast on the 30th of September and made the best of my way to Batavia, where we arrived on the 10th instant.

    I send herewith a copy of my journal, containing the proceedings of the whole voyage, together with such charts as I have had time to copy, which I judge will be sufficient for the present to illustrate said journal. In this journal I have with undisguised truth and without gloss inserted the whole transactions of the voyage, and made such remarks and descriptions as I thought necessary in the best manner I was capable of.

    Although the discoveries made in this voyage are not great, yet I flatter myself they are such as may merit the attention of their Lordships; and although I have failed in discovering the so much talked of southern continent (which perhaps does not exist), I am confident no part of the failure can be laid to my charge.

    Had we been so fortunate not to have run ashore, much more would have been done in the latter part of the voyage; but as it is, I presume this voyage will be found as complete as any before made to the South Seas on the same account. The plans I have drawn of the places I have been at were made with all the care and accuracy that time and circumstances would admit of. Thus far I am certain that the latitude and longitude of few parts of the world are better settled than these.

    In this I was much assisted by Mr. Green, who let slip no one opportunity for making observations for settling the longitude during the whole course of the voyage; and the many valuable discoveries made by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in natural history and other things useful to the learned world cannot fail of contributing very much to the success of the voyage.

    In justice to the officers and the whole crew, I must say they have gone through the fatigues and dangers of the whole voyage with that cheerfulness and alertness that will always do honour to British seamen, and I have the satisfaction to say that I have not lost one man by sickness during the whole voyage.

    I hope that the repairs wanting to the ship will not be so great as to detain us any length of time. You may be assured that I shall make no unnecessary delay either here or at any other place, but shall make the best of my way home.

    I have the honour to be, with the greatest respect,

    Sir,

    Your most obedient humble servant,

    JAMES COOK

  485. 26 October 1770

    The crew starts to get sick

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Friday, 26th. Set up the ship’s tent for the reception of the ship’s company; several of them begin to be taken ill, owing, as I suppose, to the extreme hot weather.”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), October 18, 1770:

    “On the 18th, as soon as it was light, having by several accidents and mistakes suffered a delay of many days, I took up the anchor, and ran down to Ourust: a few days afterwards, we went along-side of the wharf, on Cooper’s Island, which lies close to Ourust, in order to take out our stores.

    By this time, having been here only nine days, we began to feel the fatal effects of the climate and situation. Tupia., after the flow of spirits which the novelties of the place produced upon his first landing, sunk on a sudden, and grew every day worse and worse. Tayeto was seized with an inflammation upon his lungs, Mr. Banks’s two servants became very ill, and himself and Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers: in a few days, almost every person both on board and ashore was sick; affected, no doubt, by the low swampy situation of the place, and the numberless dirty canals which intersect the town in all directions.”

    Excerpt from Banks’s Journal, October 10-20, 1770:

    “Ever since our first arrival here we had been universaly told of the extreme unwholesomeness of the place which we, they said, should severely feel on account of the freshness and heal[t]hiness of our countenances. This threat however we did not much regard thinking ourselves too well season’d to variety of Climates to fear any, and trusting more than all to an invariable temperance in every thing, which we had as yet unalterably kept during our whole residence in the warm latitudes so had small reason to doubt our resolutions of keeping for the future. Before the end of this month however we were made sensible of our Mistake. Poor Tupias broken constitution felt it first and he grew worse and worse every day. Then Tayeto his boy was attackd by a cold and i[n]flammation on his lungs; then my Servants Peter and James and myself had Intermitting fevers and Dr Solander a constant nervous one; in short every one on shore and Many on board were ill, cheifly of intermittents, Occasiond no doubt by the lowness of the countrey and the numberless dirty Canals which intersect the town in all directions.”

    Excerpt form Banks’s Journal, October 21, 1770:

    We now began sensibly to feel the ill Effects of the unwholesome climate we were in: our appetites and spirits were gone but none were yet realy sick except poor Tupia and Tayeto, both of which grew worse and worse daily so that I began once more to despair of poor Tupias life. At last he desird to be removd to the ship where he said he should breathe a freeer air clear of the numerous houses which he beleivd to be the cause of his disease by stopping the free draught.”

     

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  486. 27 October 1770

    Unloading Stores and Ballast

    Saturday, 27th. Employed getting out stores, ballast, etc.

  487. 28 October 1770

    Continuing to Unload Stores and Ballast

    Sunday, 28th. Employed as above.

  488. 29 October 1770

    Clearing the Ship

    Monday, 29th, Tuesday, 30th, Wednesday, 31st. Employed clearing the ship.

  489. 1 November 1770

    Delay at Onrust Due to Dutch Ships

    Thursday, November 1st. Got everything out of the ship, and all clear for going alongside of the careening. About noon, I received a message from the officer at Onrust, acquainting me that they could not receive us there until they had first dispatched the ships bound to Europe, which were down here taking in pepper.

  490. 2 November 1770

    Overhauling Rigging and Repairing Sails

    Friday, 2nd, Saturday, 3rd, Sunday, 4th. Employed overhauling the rigging, making rope, and making and repairing sails.

  491. 5 November 1770

    Ship Moved to Onrust

    Monday, 5th. Clear, hot, sultry weather. In the A.M., transported the ship over to Onrust, alongside one of the careening wharfs.

  492. 6 November 1770

    Repairs Begin at Onrust

    Tuesday, 6th. In the A.M., the officers of the yard took the ship in hand, and sent on board a number of carpenters, caulkers, riggers, slaves, etc., to make ready to heave down.

  493. 7 November 1770

    Death of the Surgeon

    Wednesday, 7th. Employed getting ready to heave down in the P.M. We had the misfortune to lose Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon, who died at Batavia of a fever after a short illness.

    Of this disease and others several of our people are daily taken ill, which will make his loss be the more severely felt. He was succeeded by Mr. Perry, his mate, who is equally as well skilled in his profession.

  494. 8 November 1770

    Preparations to Heave Down

    Thursday, 8th. In the night had much thunder, lightning, and rain. During the day fair weather, which gave us time to get everything in readiness for heaving down.

  495. 9 November 1770

    Severe Damage Found During Repairs

    Friday, 9th. In the P.M. hove the larboard side of the ship, keel out, and found her bottom in far worse condition than expected. The false keel was gone to within twenty feet of the stern post, and the main keel was wounded in many places. Much of the sheathing was off, and several planks were badly damaged—especially under the main channel near the keel, where two and a half planks, nearly six feet long, were within one-eighth of an inch of being cut through.

    Here the worms had made their way into the timbers, and it was a matter of surprise to all how the ship had remained afloat. Yet, in this condition, we had sailed hundreds of leagues through some of the most dangerous navigation in the world, happily ignorant of the continual danger we were in.

    In the evening, we righted the ship, having only time to patch the worst places to prevent water from getting in. In the morning, we hove her down again. Most of the carpenters and caulkers in the yard were set to work on her bottom, while a number of slaves were employed bailing water from the hold.

    Although our people attended, few were called upon, for by this time sickness had weakened us so much that no more than twenty men and officers were fit for duty. Thus, we could never have managed to heave her down and repair her ourselves, as I had once believed we might.

  496. 10 November 1770

    Leak in the Upper Works

    Saturday, 10th. In the P.M. we were obliged to righten the ship before night, as she was making water in her upper works faster than we could free. This made it necessary to have her weather works, inside and out, caulked, which before was thought unnecessary.

  497. 11 November 1770

    Repairs Continue on the Larboard Side

    Sunday, 11th. In the A.M., having caulked her upper works, we hove out the larboard side again, where a number of workmen were employed repairing her.

  498. 12 November 1770

    Larboard Side Completed

    Monday, 12th. In the P.M. finished the larboard side, and in the A.M. began to get ready to heave out the other.

  499. 13 November 1770

    Starboard Side Inspection

    Tuesday, 13th. This day they hove the starboard side keel out, which we found very little damaged, and was therefore soon done with.

  500. 14 November 1770

    Repairs Completed and Praise for the Dutch Yard

    Wednesday, 14th. Employ’d clearing the ship of the careening gear, her bottom being now thoroughly repair’d, and very much to my satisfaction.

    In justice to the officers and workmen of this yard, I must say that I do not believe that there is a marine yard in the world where work is done with more alertness than here, or where there are better conveniences for heaving ships down both in point of safety and despatch.

    Here they heave down by two masts, which is not now practised by the English; but I hold it to be much safer and more expeditious than by heaving down by one mast. A man must not only be strongly bigotted to his own customs, but in some measure divested of reason, that will not allow this, after seeing with how much ease and safety the Dutch at Onrust heave down their largest ships.

  501. 15 November 1770

    Ship Moved to Cooper’s Island

    Thursday, 15th. In the A.M. transported the ship from Onrust to Cooper’s Island, and moored her alongside the wharf.

  502. 16 November 1770

    Taking in Supplies and Repairs

    Friday, 16th. Employ’d taking in coals and ballast; sent one of the decay’d pumps up to Batavia to have a new one made by it.

  503. 17 November 1770

    Rigging and General Weakness of Crew

    Saturday, 17th, Sunday, 18th, Monday, 19th, Tuesday, 20th, Wednesday, 21st, Thursday, 22nd, Friday, 23rd, Saturday, 24th, Sunday, 25th. Employ’d rigging the ship, getting on board stores and water, which last we have sent from Batavia at the rate of six shillings and eight pence a leager, or 150 gallons.

    We are now become so sickly that we seldom can muster above twelve or fourteen hands to do duty.

  504. 26 November 1770

    Westerly Monsoons Begin

    Monday, 26th. In the night had much rain, after which the westerly monsoons set in, which blow here generally in the night from the south-west or from the land, and in the day from the north-west or north.

  505. 27 November 1770

    Preparing the Ship and Taking on Supplies

    Tuesday, 27th, Wednesday, 28th, Thursday, 29th, Friday, 30th, [December 1770.] Saturday, December 1st, Sunday, 2nd, Monday, 3rd, Tuesday, 4th, Wednesday, 5th, Thursday, 6th, Friday, 7th. Employ’d getting on board stores, provisions, water, rigging the ship, repairing and bending the sails.

    On the last of these days, having got all the sick on board, and every other thing from the island, we hauled off from the wharfe with a design to run up to Batavia Road, but the wind proving scant obliged us to lay at anchor.

  506. 8 December 1770

    Arrival at Batavia Road

    Saturday, 8th. Fresh breezes westerly, and fair weather. At 10 a.m. weigh’d and run up to Batavia Road, where we anchor’d in 4 1/2 fathoms water.

  507. 9 December 1770

    Sending Supplies Ashore and Receiving Stores

    Sunday, 9th. First and latter parts ditto weather, middle squally with rain. In the P.M. sent on shore a boat load of empty casks, and at the same time went myself in order to forward the things we wanted, and in the evening sent on board the new pump, with some other stores that were immediately wanting.

  508. 10 December 1770

    Maintenance Work During Squally Weather

    Monday, 10th. For the most part squally, with rain; the people employ’d scraping the paint work.

  509. 11 December 1770

    Taking on Provisions and Water

    Tuesday, 11th, Wednesday, 12th, Thursday, 13th, Friday, 14th. For the most part of these days fair weather. Employ’d taking on board provisions and water; this last is put on board at 5 shillings a leager, or 150 gallons.

  510. 15 December 1770

    Arrival of the Earl of Elgin

    Saturday, 15th. In the P.M. anchor’d here the Earl of Elgin, Captain Cooke, an English East India Company ship from Madras, bound to China, but having lost her passage, put in here to wait for the next season.

  511. 16 December 1770

    Taking on Provisions and Ship Maintenance

    Sunday, 16th, Monday, 17th. Employ’d taking on board provisions; scraping and painting the ship.

  512. 18 December 1770

    Arrival of the Phoenix

    Tuesday, 18th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. Anchored here the Phoenix, Captain Black, an English Country ship from Bencoolen.

  513. 19 December 1770

    Final Preparations for Departure

    Wednesday, 19th, Thursday, 20th, Friday, 21st, Saturday, 22nd, Sunday, 23rd, Monday, 24th. Fresh breezes, and for the most part fair weather. Completed taking on board provisions, water, etc., and getting the ship ready for sea.

  514. 25 December 1770

    Departure Preparations and Dispute with Dutch Officers

    Tuesday, 25th. Having now completely refitted the ship, and taken in a sufficient quantity of provisions of all kinds, I this afternoon took leave of the General, and such others of the principal gentlemen as I had any connection with, all of whom upon every occasion gave me all the assistance I required.

    A small dispute, however, now happened between me and some of the Dutch naval officers about a seaman that had run from one of the Dutch ships in the road and entered on board mine. This man the General demanded as a subject of Holland, and I promised to deliver him up provided he was not an English subject, and sent the necessary orders on board for that purpose.

    In the morning, the Commodore’s Captain came and told me that he had been on board my ship for the man, but that the officer had refused to give him up, alleging that he was an Englishman. He added that he was just then come from the General to demand the man of me as a Danish subject, he standing upon their ship’s books as born at Elsinore.

    I told him that I believed there must be some mistake in the General’s message, for I apprehended he would not demand a Danish seaman from me who had committed no other crime than preferring the English service before that of the Dutch. But to convince him how unwilling I was to disoblige any one concerned, I had sent orders on board to deliver the man to him in case he was found to be a foreigner; but as that was not done, I suspected that the man was a subject of England, and if I found him to be such, I was resolved to keep him. Soon after this, I received a letter from Mr. Hicks, which I carried to the Shabander, and desired that it might be shown to the General, and at the same time to acquaint him that, after my having such unanswerable proof of the man’s being an English subject as was mentioned in that letter, it was impossible for me to deliver him up. After this I heard no more about it.

  515. 26 December 1770

    Departure from Batavia and Reflections on Sickness and Loss

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Wednesday, 26th. In the P.M. myself, Mr. Banks, and all the Gentlemen came on board, and at 6 a.m. weigh’d and came to sail with a light breeze at South-West. The Elgin Indiaman saluted us with 3 cheers and 13 Guns, and soon after the Garrison with 14, both of which we return’d. Soon after this the Sea breeze set in at North by West, which obliged us to Anchor just without the Ships in the Road.

    The number of Sick on board at this time amounts to 40 or upwards, and the rest of the Ship’s Company are in a weakly condition, having been every one sick except the Sailmaker, an old Man about 70 or 80 years of age; and what is still more extraordinary in this man is his being generally more or less drunk every day. But notwithstanding this general sickness, we lost but 7 men in the whole: the Surgeon, 3 Seamen, Mr. Green’s Servant, and Tupia and his Servant, both of which fell a sacrifice to this unwholesome climate before they had reached the object of their wishes.

    Tupia’s death, indeed, cannot be said to be owing wholy to the unwholesome air of Batavia; the long want of a Vegetable Diet, which he had all his life before been used to, had brought upon him all the Disorders attending a Sea life. He was a shrewd, sensible, ingenious man, but proud and obstinate, which often made his situation on board both disagreeable to himself and those about him, and tended much to promote the diseases which put a Period to his Life.* (* It is rather curious that Cook does not here record his sense of the value of Tupia’s services as interpreter, which he has before alluded to in the Journal. There is no doubt that his presence on board when the ship was in New Zealand was the greatest advantage, affording a means of communication with the natives, which prevented the usual gross misunderstandings which arise as to the object of the visit of an exploring ship. Without him, even with Cook’s humane intention and good management, friendly relations would have been much more difficult to establish.)”

    Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), December 26, 1770:

    “At six in the morning, of the 26th, we weighed and set sail, with a light breeze at S. W. The Elgin Indiaman saluted us with three cheers and thirteen guns, and the garrison with fourteen, both which, with the help of our swivels, we returned, and soon after the sea breeze set in at N. by W. which obliged us to anchor just without the ships in the Road.

    At this time, the number of sick on board amounted to forty, and the rest of the ship’s company were in a very feeble condition. Every individual had been sick except the sail-maker, an old man between seventy and eighty years of age, and it is very remarkable that this old man, during our stay at this place, was constantly drunk every day: we had buried seven, the Surgeon, three seamen, Mr. Green’s servant, Tupia, and Tayeto his boy. All but Tupia fell a sacrifice to the unwholesome, stagnant, putrid air of the country, and he who from his birth had been used to subsist chiefly upon vegetable food, particularly ripe fruit, soon contracted all the disorders that are incident to a sea life, and would probably have sunk under them before we could have completed our voyage, if we had not been obliged to go to Batavia to refit.”

    Banks’s Journal, December 25, 1770:

    “There was not I beleive a man in the ship but gave his utmost aid to getting up the Anchor, so compleatly tird was every one of the unwholesome air of this place. We had buried here 8 people, in general however the Crew was in rather better health than they had been a fortnight before.

    While we were at work a man was missd who it was supposd did not intend to stay ashore, so a boat was sent after him, which before its return delayd us so long that we lost intirely the sea breeze, and were obligd to come too again a few cables lenghs only from where we lay before.”

     

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  516. 27 December 1770

    Departure from Batavia Road

    Thursday, 27th. Moderate breezes at West and North-West, with fair weather. At 6 a.m. weighed, and stood out to Sea; at Noon the Island of Edam bore North by East, distant 3 miles.

  517. 28 December 1770

    Plying between Edam and Duffin’s Island

    Friday, 28th. Winds variable between the North and West. At 6 in the Evening anchored in 13 fathoms, Edam Island bearing East, distant 1 1/2 miles. At day light in the morning weighed again, and keept plying to windward between Edam and Duffin’s Island, but gained very little owing to the variableness of the winds.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  518. 29 December 1770

    Plying between Edam and Duffin’s Island

    Friday, 28th. Winds variable between the North and West. At 6 in the Evening anchored in 13 fathoms, Edam Island bearing East, distant 1 1/2 miles. At day light in the morning weighed again, and keept plying to windward between Edam and Duffin’s Island, but gained very little owing to the variableness of the winds.

  519. 29 December 1770

    Sailing toward the Thousand Islands

    Saturday, 29th. In the P.M. anchored in 12 fathoms water in the Evening until daylight, when we got again under Sail, with the wind at West-South-West, and stood out North-West for the Thousand Islands. Before noon the wind veer’d to North-West, and we endeavour’d to turn through between Pulo Pare and Wapping Island.

  520. 30 December 1770

    Working off the Coast near Maneaters Island

    Sunday, 30th. After making a short trip to the North-East, we tacked, and weather’d Pulo Pare, and stood in for the Main, having the wind at North-West, a fresh breeze. We fetched Maneaters Island (a small island laying under the Main midway between Batavia and Bantam) after making a trip to the North-East, and finding that we lost ground, we stood in shore again and anchored in 13 fathoms, the above mentioned Island bearing South-West by West, distant 1 mile, and in one with Bantam Hill. At 7 A.M. weighed, with the wind at West-South-West, and stood to the North-West, and weather’d Wapping Island, having the current in our favour.

  521. 31 December 1770

    Between Pulo Baby and Bantam Bay

    Monday, 31st. At 1 P.M. the wind veer’d to the Northward; we tack and stood to the Westward, and weather’d Pulo Baby. In the Evening Anchor’d between this Island and Bantam Bay, the Island bearing North, distant 2 miles, and Bantam Point West; at 5 a.m. weighed with the wind at West by South, which afterwards proved variable; at noon Bantam Point South-West 1/2 West, distant 3 Leagues.

  522. 1 January 1771

    Through the Straits of Sunda

    Tuesday, 1st. In the P.M. stood over for the Sumatra Shore, having the wind at South-South-West, a fresh breeze, and the current in our favour; but this last shifted and set to the Eastward in the Evening, and obliged us to Anchor in 30 fathoms, under the Islands which lay off Verekens point, which point constitutes the narrowest part of the Straits of Sunda. Here we found the current set to the South-West the most part of the night; at 5 a.m. weigh’d with the wind at North-West, and stood to the South-West between the Island Thwart-the-way and Sumatra; the wind soon after coming to the westward we stood over for the Java Shore. At noon the South point of Peper Bay bore South-West by South, and Anger Point North-East 1/2 East, distant 2 Leagues; tacked and stood to the North-West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  523. 2 January 1771

    Between Cracatoa and the Java Shore

    Wednesday, 2nd. First and middle parts fresh breezes at South-West, and fair; the remainder, squally with rain; plying to windward between Cracatoa and the Java shore without gaining anything.

  524. 3 January 1771

    Off Cracatoa Island

    Thursday, 3rd. In the P.M. had it very squally, with heavy showers of rain; at 1/2 past 7 anchor’d in 19 fathoms, Cracatoa Island South-West, distance 3 Leagues. In the morning came to sail, having very squally variable weather; at Noon Cracatoa West 2 Leagues.

  525. 4 January 1771

    Off Cracatoa and Princes Island

    Friday, 4th. Most part of these 24 hours squally, rainy weather, winds variable between the North-North-West and South-South-West; at 5 p.m. anchor’d in 28 fathoms water, Cracatoa West, distant 3 miles. Some time after the wind veer’d to North-West, with which we got under sail, but the wind dying away we advanced but little to the South-West before noon, at which time Princes Island bore South-West, distance 8 or 9 Leagues.

  526. 5 January 1771

    Off Princes Island

    Saturday, 5th. Had fresh breezes at South-West, with squally, rainy weather until the evening, when it clear’d up, and the wind veer’d to South and South-East, with which we stood to the South-West all night. In the morning the wind veer’d to North-East, which was still in our favour; at noon Princes Island bore West 1/2 South, distant 3 Leagues.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  527. 6 January 1771

    Anchored off Princes Island

    Sunday, 6th. At 3 o’clock in the P.M. anchor’d under the South-East side of Princes Island in 18 fathoms water, in order to recruite our wood and water, and to procure refreshments for the people, which are now in a much worse state of health than when we left Batavia.

    After coming to an anchor I went on shore to look at the watering place, and to speak with the Natives, some of whom were upon the Beach. I found the watering place convenient, and the water to all appearance good, provided proper care is taken in the filling of it.

    The Natives seemed inclined to supply us with Turtle, Fowls, etc.; articles that I intended laying in as great a stock as possible for the benefit of the Sick, and to suffer every one to purchase what they pleased for themselves, as I found these people as easy to traffick with as Europeans.

    In the morning sent the Gunner ashore with some hands to fill water, while others were employ’d putting the whole to rights, sending on shore Empty Casks, etc. Served Turtle to the Ship’s Company. Yesterday was the only Salt meat day they have had since our arrival at Java, which is now near 4 months.

  528. 7 January 1771

    At Princes Island

    Monday, 7th. From this day till Monday 14th we were employ’d wooding and watering, being frequently interrupted by heavy rains. Having now compleated both, we hoisted in the Long boat, and made ready to put to Sea, having on board a pretty good stock of refreshments, which we purchased of the natives, such as Turtle, Fowls, Fish, and two species of Deer—one about as big as a small sheep, the other no bigger than a Rabbit.

    Both sorts eat very well, but are only for present use, as they seldom lived above 24 hours in our possession. We likewise got fruit of several sorts, such as Cocoa Nutts, Plantains, Limes, etc.

    The trade on our part was carried on chiefly with money (Spanish Dollars); the natives set but little value upon any thing else. Such of our people as had not this article traded with Old Shirts, etc., at a great disadvantage.

  529. 15 January 1771

    Princes Island

    Tuesday, 15th. Had variable light airs of wind, with which we could not get under sail until the morning, when we weighed with a light breeze at North-East, which was soon succeeded by a calm.

  530. 16 January 1771

    Departing Princes Island

    Wednesday, 16th. Had it calm all P.M., which at 5 o’clock obliged us to Anchor under the South Point of Princes Island, the said Point bearing South-West by West, distance 2 miles.

    At 8 o’clock in the A.M. a light breeze sprung up at North, with which we weigh’d and stood out to Sea. At noon Java Head bore South-East by South, distance 2 Leagues, and the West Point of Princes Island North-North-West, distance 5 Leagues. Latitude Observed 6 degrees 45 minutes South.

    Java Head, from which I take my departure, lies in the Latitude of 6 degrees 49 minutes South, and Longitude 255 degrees 12 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich, deduced from several Astronomical Observations made at Batavia by the Reverend Mr. Mohr. (*The true longitude of Java Head is 254 degrees 49 minutes West.*)

  531. 17 January 1771

    At Sea, off Java Head

    Thursday, 17th. Little wind and fair. At 6 p.m. Java Head bore East-North-East, distant 4 or 5 Leagues; at 6 a.m. it bore North-North-East, 12 Leagues.

    Wind North-East; course South 27 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 48 miles; latitude 7 degrees 32 minutes South; longitude 255 degrees 35 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  532. 18 January 1771

    At Sea

    Friday, 18th. Light airs and calms, with showers of rain.

    Wind variable; course South-West 1/2 South; distance 30 miles; latitude 7 degrees 55 minutes South; longitude 255 degrees 54 minutes West.

  533. 19 January 1771

    At Sea

    Saturday, 19th. For the most part of these 24 hours had little wind and fair weather.

    Wind westerly; course South 3 degrees East; distance 53 miles; latitude 8 degrees 48 minutes South; longitude 255 degrees 51 minutes West.

  534. 20 January 1771

    At Sea

    Sunday, 20th. Light airs and calms, with some showers of rain.

    Saw 2 sail in the North-West quarter standing to the South-West; one of them shew’d Dutch colours.

    Wind North-Westerly; course South 44 degrees West; distance 36 miles; latitude 9 degrees 14 minutes South; longitude 256 degrees 15 minutes West.

  535. 21 January 1771

    A gentle breeze

    Monday, 21st. First part little wind, the remainder a gentle breeze; the 2 sail in sight.

    Wind easterly; course South 57 degrees West; distance 58 miles; latitude 9 degrees 46 minutes South; longitude 257 degrees 5 minutes West.

  536. 22 January 1771

    Little wind and fair weather

    Tuesday, 22nd. Little wind and fair weather.

    Wind South-Westerly; course North 10 degrees West; distance 17 miles; latitude 9 degrees 29 minutes South; longitude 257 degrees 8 minutes West.

  537. 23 January 1771

    Ditto weather

    Wednesday, 23rd. Ditto weather; a swell from the Southward, and which we have had ever since we left the Straits of Sunda.

    Wind ditto; course East Southerly; distance 18 miles; latitude 9 degrees 30 minutes South; longitude 256 degrees 50 minutes West.

  538. 24 January 1771

    Light airs

    Thursday, 24th. First part light airs, the remainder calm.

    In the A.M. died John Trusslove, Corporal of Marines, a man much esteem’d by every body on board. Many of our people at this time lay dangerously ill of fevers and fluxes.

    We are inclinable to attribute this to the water we took in at Princes Island, and have put lime into the casks in order to purifie it.

    Wind South-West by South to South-South-East; course South; distance 4 miles; latitude 9 degrees 34 minutes South; longitude 256 degrees 50 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  539. 25 January 1771

    Light airs and calms

    Friday, 25th. Light airs and calms; hot, sultry weather.

    Departed this life Mr. Sporing, a Gentleman belonging to Mr. Banks’s retinue.

    Wind variable and calms; course South 30 degrees East; distance 12 miles; latitude 9 degrees 44 minutes South; longitude 256 degrees 44 minutes West.

  540. 26 January 1771

    Calm and very hot

    Saturday, 26th. First part little wind, the remainder calm and very hot.

    Set up the topmast rigging, and clear’d ship between decks, and wash’d her with vinegar.

    Wind South-Westerly; course South-East; distance 17 miles; latitude 9 degrees 56 minutes South; longitude 256 degrees 32 minutes West.

  541. 27 January 1771

    Little wind

    Sunday, 27th. Little wind, and sometimes calm.

    In the evening found the variation to be 2 degrees 51 minutes West. Departed this life Mr. Sydney Parkinson, Natural History Painter to Mr. Banks, and soon after John Ravenhill, Sailmaker, a man much advanced in years.

    Wind variable; course South 30 degrees West; distance 19 miles; latitude 10 degrees 12 minutes South; longitude 256 degrees 41 minutes West.

  542. 28 January 1771

    Moderate breezes

    Monday, 28th. Moderate breezes, with some squalls, attended with showers of rain.

    Wind West-North-West, North-East; course South 43 degrees West; distance 66 miles; latitude 11 degrees 0 minutes South; longitude 257 degrees 27 minutes West.

  543. 29 January 1771

    Very variable weather

    Tuesday, 29th. Very variable weather; sometimes squally, with rain, other times little wind and calms.

    In the night died Mr. Charles Green, who was sent out by the Royal Society to observe the Transit of Venus. He had long been in a bad state of health, which he took no care to repair, but, on the contrary, lived in such a manner as greatly promoted the disorders he had long had upon him; this brought on the flux, which put a period to his life.

    Wind North-Westerly; course South 40 degrees West; distance 74 miles; latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes South; longitude 258 degrees 15 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  544. 30 January 1771

    Moderate breezes and cloudy weather

    Wednesday, 30th. First and latter parts moderate breezes and cloudy weather; the middle squally, with rain, thunder, and lightning.

    Died of the flux Samuel Moody and Francis Haite, two of the Carpenter’s crew.

    Wind Easterly; course South 40 degrees West; distance 67 miles; latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes South; longitude 258 degrees 59 minutes West.

  545. 31 January 1771

    Death continues at sea

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Thursday, 31st. First part moderate and fair, the remainder frequent squalls, attended with showers of rain.

    In the course of this 24 hours we have had four men die of the flux, viz., John Thompson, ship’s cook; Benjamin Jordan, carpenter’s mate; James Nickolson and Archibald Wolf, seamen.

    A melancholy proof of the calamitous situation we are at present in, having hardly well men enough to tend the sails and look after the sick, many of whom are so ill that we have not the least hopes of their recovery.

    Wind East-South-East; course South-West; distance 80 miles; latitude 13 degrees 42 minutes South; longitude 259 degrees 55 minutes West.”

    Excerpt from Cook’s Journal (Hawkesworth), January, 1770:

    “We now made the best of our way for the Cape of Good Hope, but the seeds of disease which we had received at Batavia began to appear with the most threatening symptoms in dysenteries and slow fevers. Left the water which we had taken in at Prince’s Island should have had any share in our sickness, we purified it with lime, and we washed all parts of the ship between decks with vinegar, as a remedy against infection. Mr. Banks was among the sick, and for some time there was no hope of his life.

    We were very soon in a most deplorable situation; the ship was nothing better than an hospital, in which those that were able to go about, were too few to attend the sick, who were confined to their hammocks; and we had almost every night a dead body to commit to the sea.

    In the course of about six weeks, we buried Mr. Sporing, a gentleman who was in Mr. Banks’s retinue, Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter, Mr. Green the astronomer, the boatswain, the carpenter and his mate, Mr. Monkhouse the midshipman, who had fothered the ship after she had been stranded on the coast of New Holland, our old jolly sail-maker and his assistant, the ship’s cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenter’s crew, a midshipman, and nine seamen; in all three and twenty persons, besides the seven that we buried at Batavia.”

    Banks’s Journal, January 30, 1771:

    “For the first time I found myself better and slept some time, which my continual pains had never sufferd me to do before not wistanding the opiates which were constantly administerd. One person only died today, but so weak were the people in general that, officers and men included, not more than 8 or nine could keep the deck so that 4 in a watch was all they had.”

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

     

  546. 1 February 1771

    Flying showers of rain

    Friday, February 1st. Fresh gales, with flying showers of rain.

    Clean’d between decks, and washed with vinegar.

    Wind South-East by South; course South 58 1/2 degrees West; distance 119 miles; latitude 14 degrees 44 minutes South; longitude 261 degrees 40 minutes West.

  547. 2 February 1771

    A fresh trade

    Saturday, 2nd. A fresh trade, and mostly fair weather.

    Departed this life Daniel Roberts, gunner’s servant, who died of the flux. Since we have had a fresh trade wind, this fatal disorder hath seemed to be at a stand; yet there are several people who are so far gone, and brought so very low by it, that we have not the least hopes of their recovery.

    Wind East-South-East; course South 61 degrees West; distance 131 miles; latitude 15 degrees 48 minutes South; longitude 264 degrees 16 minutes West.

  548. 3 February 1771

    Ditto weather

    Sunday, 3rd. Ditto weather.

    In the evening found the variation to be 2 degrees 56 minutes West. Departed this life John Thurman, sailmaker’s assistant.

    Wind Ditto; course South 65 degrees West; distance 128 miles; latitude 16 degrees 40 minutes South; longitude 266 degrees 16 minutes West.

  549. 4 February 1771

    A fresh trade and hazy weather

    Monday, 4th. A fresh trade and hazy weather, with some squalls, attended with small rain.

    Unbent the main topsail to repair, and bent another. In the night died of the flux Mr. John Bootie, midshipman, and Mr. John Gathrey, boatswain.

    Wind South-East; course South 69 degrees West; distance 141 miles; latitude 17 degrees 30 minutes South; longitude 268 degrees 32 minutes West.

  550. 5 February 1771

    A fresh trade wind

    Tuesday, 5th. A fresh trade wind, and hazy, cloudy weather.

    Employ’d repairing sails. Appointed Samuel Evans, one of the boatswain’s mates and coxswain of the pinnace, to be boatswain, in the room of Mr. Gathrey, deceased, and order’d a survey to be taken of the stores.

    Wind East by South; course West 15 degrees South; distance 141 miles; latitude 18 degrees 6 minutes South; longitude 270 degrees 54 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  551. 6 February 1771

    A fresh trade wind and fair weather

    Wednesday, 6th. A fresh trade wind and fair weather.

    In the night died Mr. John Monkhouse, midshipman, and brother to the late surgeon.

    Wind South-East; course West 12 degrees South; distance 126 miles; latitude 18 degrees 30 minutes South; longitude 272 degrees 28 minutes West.

  552. 7 February 1771

    Gentle gales

    Thursday, 7th. Gentle gales, with some showers in the night.

    In the evening found the variation to be 3 degrees 24 minutes West, and in the morning I took several observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of which, carried on to noon, gave 276 degrees 19 minutes West longitude from Greenwich, which is 2 degrees to the westward of that given by the log. This, I believe, is owing to a following sea, which I have not as yet allowed, for I judge it to be 6 miles a day since we have had the South-East trade wind.

    Wind South-East; course South 75 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 110 miles; latitude 18 degrees 58 minutes South; longitude 274 degrees 20 minutes per log, 276 degrees 19 minutes per observation.

  553. 8 February 1771

    Winds as yesterday

    Friday, 8th. Winds as yesterday; clear weather in the day, and showery in the night.

    In the morning took observations again of the sun and moon, the mean result of which, reduced to noon, gave 278 degrees 50 minutes West, which is 2 degrees 31 minutes West of yesterday’s observation; the log gives 2 degrees 20 minutes.

    Wind South-East; course South 78 degrees West; distance 127 miles; latitude 19 degrees 24 minutes South; longitude 276 degrees 40 minutes per log, 278 degrees 50 minutes per observation.

  554. 9 February 1771

    Gentle gales and fair weather

    Saturday, 9th. Gentle gales and fair weather in the morning.

    Saw a ship on our larboard quarter, which hoisted Dutch colours.

    Wind South-East; course South 74 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 127 miles; latitude 19 degrees 58 minutes South.

  555. 10 February 1771

    Fresh breezes and hazy weather

    Sunday, 10th. Fresh breezes and hazy weather.

    Lost sight in the night of the Dutch ship, she having out sail’d us.

    Wind South-East quarter; course South 77 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 136 miles; latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes South; longitude 281 degrees 12 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  556. 11 February 1771

    Winds and weather as yesterday

    Monday, 11th. Winds and weather as yesterday.

    Some hands constantly employ’d repairing sails.

    Wind Ditto; course South 75 degrees West; distance 126 miles; latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes South; longitude 283 degrees 22 minutes West.

  557. 12 February 1771

    Gentle breezes and fair weather

    Tuesday, 12th. Gentle breezes and fair weather.

    At 7 a.m. died of the flux, after a long and painful illness, Mr. John Satterly, Carpenter, a man much esteem’d by me and every gentleman on board.

    In his room I appoint George Nowell, one of the Carpenter’s crew, having only him and one more left.

    Wind South-South-East; course South 71 degrees West; distance 83 miles; latitude 21 degrees 25 minutes South; longitude 284 degrees 46 minutes West.

  558. 13 February 1771

    Weather as yesterday

    Wednesday, 13th. Weather as yesterday.

    Employ’d surveying the Carpenter’s stores and repairing sails.

    Wind Ditto; course South 72 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 87 miles; latitude 21 degrees 51 minutes South; longitude 286 degrees 15 minutes West.

  559. 14 February 1771

    Moderate breezes and cloudy

    Thursday, 14th. Moderate breezes and cloudy, with some showers of rain.

    Variation per azimuth 4 degrees 10 minutes West. Died Alexander Lindsay, seaman; this man was one of those we got at Batavia, and had been some time in India.

    Winds Ditto; course South 73 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 105 miles; latitude 22 degrees 21 minutes South; longitude 288 degrees 3 minutes West.

  560. 15 February 1771

    Ditto weather

    Friday, 15th. Ditto weather.

    Died of the flux Daniel Preston, Marine.

    Wind South-East by East; course South 81 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 123 miles; latitude 22 degrees 40 minutes South; longitude 290 degrees 15 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

     

  561. 16 February 1771

    A fresh Trade

    Saturday, 16th. A fresh Trade and cloudy weather.

    Employ’d repairing sails, rigging, etc.

    Wind Ditto; course South 84 degrees West; distance 115 miles; latitude 22 degrees 52 minutes South; longitude 292 degrees 20 minutes West.

  562. 17 February 1771

    Fresh gales

    Sunday, 17th. Fresh gales, with some showers of rain.

    Variation per azimuth 10 degrees 20 minutes Westerly.

    Wind South-East by South; course South 79 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 157 miles; latitude 23 degrees 20 minutes South; longitude 295 degrees 8 minutes West.

  563. 18 February 1771

    Fair and pleasant weather

    Monday, 18th. Fair and pleasant weather.

    Wind South-East by East; course South 75 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 148 miles; latitude 23 degrees 57 minutes South; longitude 297 degrees 46 minutes West.

  564. 19 February 1771

    Ditto weather

    Tuesday, 19th. Ditto weather.

    Wind South-East by East and South; course South 77 degrees West; distance 130 miles; latitude 24 degrees 26 minutes South; longitude 300 degrees 5 minutes West.

  565. 20 February 1771

    Ditto weather

    Tuesday, 19th. Ditto weather.

    Wind South-East by East and South; course South 77 degrees West; distance 130 miles; latitude 24 degrees 26 minutes South; longitude 300 degrees 5 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

     

     

  566. 20 February 1771

    Fresh gales and clear weather

    Wednesday, 20th. Fresh gales and clear weather.

    Variation per azimuth 12 degrees 15 minutes West. This morning the Carpenter and his Mate set about repairing the Long boat, being the first day they have been able to work since we left Princes Island.

    Wind South; course South 75 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 127 miles; latitude 24 degrees 57 minutes South; longitude 302 degrees 21 minutes West.

  567. 21 February 1771

    Variable weather

    Thursday, 21st. First and middle parts fair weather; latter squally, attended with showers of rain.

    Between 2 and 3 o’Clock p.m. took several observations of the Sun and Moon; the mean result of them gave 306 degrees 33 minutes West longitude from Greenwich, which is 1 degree 55 minutes West of account, and corresponds very well with the last observations, for at that time the ship was 2 degrees 10 minutes West of account.

    In the night died of the Flux Alexander Simpson, a very good Seaman. In the morning punished Thomas Rossiter with 12 lashes for getting drunk, grossly assaulting the Officer of the Watch, and beating some of the Sick.

    Wind South to East-South-East; course West by South; distance 126 miles; latitude 25 degrees 21 minutes South; longitude 304 degrees 39 minutes per account, 306 degrees 34 minutes per observation.

  568. 22 February 1771

    Nothing remarkable

    Friday, 22nd. Fresh trade and fair weather. Nothing remarkable.

    Wind South-East by South; course South 70 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 133 miles; latitude 26 degrees 5 minutes South; longitude 306 degrees 59 minutes West, 308 degrees 54 minutes per observation.

  569. 23 February 1771

    Ditto winds and weather

    Saturday, 23rd. Ditto winds and weather. Variation per evening amplitude 17 degrees 30 minutes West.

    Wind Ditto; course South 64 degrees 14 minutes West; distance 124 miles; latitude 26 degrees 59 minutes South; longitude 309 degrees 6 minutes West, 311 degrees 28 minutes per observation.

  570. 24 February 1771

    Gentle breezes and fair weather

    Sunday, 24th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. In the A.M. took the opportunity of a fine morning to stay the Main Mast, and set up the Topmast Rigging. Saw an Albatross.

    Wind Ditto; course South 66 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 117 miles; latitude 27 degrees 45 minutes South; longitude 311 degrees 7 minutes West, 313 degrees 41 minutes per observation.

  571. 25 February 1771

    Gentle gales and fair weather

    Monday, 25th. Gentle gales and fair weather. Variation per evening azimuth 24 degrees 20 minutes West, and by the morning amplitude 24 degrees West. Longitude by observation of the Sun and Moon is 3 degrees to the westward of the Log, which shews that the Ship has gain’d upon the Log 1 degree 5 minutes in 3 days, in which time we have always found the observ’d latitude to the southward of that given by the Log. These joint observations prove that there must be a current setting between the South and West.

    Wind East by South; course South 58 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 122 miles; latitude 28 degrees 49 minutes South; longitude 313 degrees 6 minutes West, 316 degrees 6 minutes per observation.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  572. 26 February 1771

    Fresh gales

    Tuesday, 26th. Fresh gales. Variation by azimuth in the evening 26 degrees 10 minutes West.

    Wind South-East by East; course South 82 degrees West; distance 122 miles; latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes South; longitude 315 degrees 24 minutes West.

  573. 27 February 1771

    Hopes of recovery

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Wednesday, 27th. Ditto gales and cloudy. In the A.M. died of the Flux Henry Jeffs, Emanuel Parreyra, and Peter Morgan, Seamen; the last came sick on board at Batavia, of which he never recover’d, and the other two had long been past all hopes of recovery, so that the death of these three men in one day did not in the least alarm us.

    On the contrary, we are in hopes that they will be the last that will fall a sacrifice to this fatal disorder, for such as are now ill of it are in a fair way of recovering.

    Wind East by South, East by North-North-East; course South 77 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 108 miles; latitude 29 degrees 30 minutes South; longitude 317 degrees 25 minutes West.”

    Banks’s Journal, February 26, 1771:

    “Lost 3 more people today, and got the Wind at NE for the first time it has varied from the true trade.”

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  574. 28 February 1771

    Moderate breezes and fair weather

    Thursday, 28th. Moderate breezes and fair weather until near 5 o’clock in the A.M., when a heavy squall from the South-West, attended with rain, took us all aback, and obliged us to put before the wind, the better to take in our sails. But before this could be done, the Foretopsail was split in several places.

    By 6 o’clock the Topsails and Mainsail were handed, and we brought to under the Foresail and Mizen. At 8 it fell more moderate, and we set the Mainsail, and brought another Foretopsail to the yard.

    At Noon had strong gales and cloudy weather. Wind North-East by East, North, and South-West; course South 85 1/2 degrees West; distance 88 miles; latitude 29 degrees 37 minutes South; longitude 319 degrees 5 minutes West.

  575. 1 March 1771

    Fresh gales and cloudy

    Friday, March 1st. Fresh gales and cloudy. Found the bitts which secure the foot of the bowsprit loose; this obliged us to put before the wind until they were secured in the best manner our situation would admit.

    This done, we hauled our wind again to the Westward under the courses and close reef’d topsails.

    Wind South-West to South by West; course South 86 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 71 miles; latitude 29 degrees 41 minutes South; longitude 320 degrees 26 minutes West.

  576. 2 March 1771

    Fresh gales and cloudy

    Saturday, 2nd. First part fresh gales and cloudy; remainder little wind, with some few showers of rain, and a sea from the South-West.

    Wind Southerly; course South 60 degrees West; distance 80 miles; latitude 30 degrees 21 minutes South; longitude 321 degrees 46 minutes West.

  577. 3 March 1771

    The sea pretty smooth

    Sunday, 3rd. First part little wind; remainder gentle gales and clear weather, and the sea pretty smooth.

    Wind North-East; course South 58 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 71 miles; latitude 31 degrees 1 minute South; longitude 323 degrees 2 minutes West.

  578. 4 March 1771

    Moderate breeze

    Monday, 4th. In the P.M. had a moderate breeze, which continued until 5 o’clock in the A.M., when it fell calm, and soon after a breeze sprung up at South-West.

    In the evening, and most part of the night, the weather was dark and cloudy, with much lightning to the westward. Variation 25 degrees 35 minutes West.

    Winds North-East to South-West; course South 67 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 87 miles; latitude 31 degrees 54 minutes South; longitude 324 degrees 36 minutes West.

  579. 5 March 1771

    Off the Coast of Africa

    Tuesday, 5th. Fresh gales from the South-South-West, with squally, rainy weather, with which we stood to the Westward. In the evening some people thought they saw the appearance of land to the Northward; but this appear’d so improbable that I, who was not on deck at this time, was not acquainted with it until dark, when I order’d them to sound, but found no ground with 80 fathoms. Upon this we concluded that no land was near.

    But daylight in the morning proved this to be a mistake by shewing us the land at the distance of about 2 Leagues off. We had now the wind at South-East, blowing fresh right upon the land. When we made the land we were standing to the Westward; but, thinking the other the best tack to get off on, we wore and hauld off to the Eastward, and by noon had got an offing of about 4 Leagues, the land at this time extending from North-East by North to West-South-West.

    This part of the Coast of Africa which we fell in with lies in about the latitude of 32 degrees 0 minutes South, and longitude 331 degrees 29 minutes West, and near to what is called in the Charts Point Nattall (*Natal*). It was a steep, craggy point, very much broke, and looked as if the high, craggy rocks were islands. To the North-East of this point the land in general appear’d to rise, sloping from the sea to a moderate height; the shore, alternately rocks and sands. About 2 Leagues to the North-East of the point appear’d to be the mouth of a river, which probably may be that of St. Johns. At this time the weather was very hazey, so that we had but a very imperfect view of the land, which did not appear to great advantage.

    Wind South-South-West to South-East; course per Log North 31 degrees West; distance 32 miles; latitude 31 degrees 5 minutes South per Observation, 31 degrees 7 minutes per Reckoning; longitude 331 degrees 19 minutes per Observation, 324 degrees 56 minutes per Reckoning.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  580. 6 March 1771

    Off the Coast of Africa

    Wednesday, 6th. Moderate gales, with hazey, rainy weather. Stood to the Eastward all the day, having the land in sight, which at 4 p.m. extended from North-East by North to South-West by West, distant 5 Leagues. At 6 in the morning we could only see it at West, distant 7 or 8 Leagues.

    At noon found the ship by observation 90 miles to the Southward of account. Thus far the current has carried us to the South since the last observation, which was only 2 days ago; but it is plain, from the position of the coast, that we have been carried full as far to the West also, notwithstanding we have been standing all the time to the East-North-East (*The ship was now in the Agulhas Current.*)

    Wind Southerly; course South 54 degrees East; distance 37 miles; latitude 32 degrees 4 minutes South; longitude 330 degrees 44 minutes per Observation, 323 degrees 36 minutes per Reckoning.

  581. 7 March 1771

    Off the Coast of Africa

    Thursday, 7th. Cloudy, hazey weather; winds varying between the South-West by South and South-East by South; a light breeze. At 1 p.m. tack’d, and stood to the Westward, land at North, distant about 8 Leagues. At 6 saw it extending from North by West to West by North, distant 5 or 6 Leagues; at 8 tack’d, and stood to the Eastward till 12; then again to the Westward, standing 4 hours on one tack, and 4 on the other.

    At noon very cloudy; had no observation; saw the land extending from North by West to West by North.

    Wind Southerly; course South 156 degrees 5 minutes West; distance 72 miles; latitude 32 degrees 54 minutes South; longitude 331 degrees 56 minutes West per Observation, 323 degrees 54 minutes per Reckoning.

  582. 8 March 1771

    Off the Coast of Africa

    Friday, 8th. In the P.M. stood to the Westward, with the wind at South by West until 4 o’clock; then again to the Eastward, having the land in sight, extending from North-North-East to West by North, distant 8 Leagues. At 12 the wind veer’d to the Eastward, and before noon blow’d a fresh breeze, with which we steer’d South-West.

    At 7, the land extending from North-North-West to East-North-East, distant 10 or 12 Leagues, found the variation by the amplitude to be 28 degrees 30 minutes West, and by an azimuth 28 degrees 8 minutes West. At noon latitude observ’d 34 degrees 18 minutes, which is 93 miles to the Southward of that given by the Log, or dead reckoning since the last observation.

    Wind Easterly; course South 39 1/2 degrees West; distance 109 miles; latitude 34 degrees 18 minutes South; longitude 333 degrees 19 minutes West per Observation, 324 degrees 23 minutes per Reckoning.

  583. 9 March 1771

    Off the Coast of Africa

    Saturday, 9th. A steady, fresh gale, and settled weather. At 4 in the P.M. had high land in sight, bearing North-East by North. At noon had little wind and clear weather; the observed latitude 46 miles to the Southward of the Log, which is conformable to what has hapned the 4 preceeding days; and by observation made of the Sun and Moon this morning found that the ship had gain’d 7 degrees 4 minutes West of the Log since the last observation, 13 days ago.

    Wind Ditto; course South 65 degrees West; distance 210 miles; latitude 35 degrees 44 minutes South; longitude 337 degrees 6 minutes West per Observation, 326 degrees 53 minutes per Reckoning.

  584. 10 March 1771

    Off the Coast of Africa

    Sunday, 10th. In the P.M. had a light breeze at North-East until 4 o’clock, when it fell calm, and continued so until 11, at which time a breeze sprung up at West-North-West, with which we stood to the Northward. In the morning found the variation to be 22 degrees 46 minutes; at noon the observ’d latitude was 14 miles to the Northward of the Log, which shews that the current must have shifted.

    Wind North-East Westerly; course North 17 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 55 miles; latitude 34 degrees 52 minutes South; longitude 337 degrees 25 minutes West per Observation, 327 degrees 12 minutes per Reckoning.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  585. 11 March 1771

    Off the Coast of Africa

    Monday, 11th. First part light airs at West; the remainder had a fresh gale at South-East, with which we steer’d West and West-North-West, in order to make the land, which was seen from the deck at 10 A.M. At noon it extended from North-East to North-West, distant 5 Leagues; the middle appear’d high and mountainous, and the two extremes low. Took several observations of the Sun and Moon, which gave the longitude, reduced to noon, as per column.

    Wind Ditto South-East; course North 85 degrees West; distance 79 miles; latitude 34 degrees 45 minutes South; longitude 338 degrees 48 minutes West per Observation, 328 degrees 35 minutes per Reckoning.

  586. 12 March 1771

    Off the Cape of Good Hope

    Tuesday, 12th. In the P.M. had the wind at South-East and East, with which we steer’d along shore West and West-South-West. At 6 Cape Laguillas* (* L’Agulhas.) bore West, distance 3 Leagues. At 8, the wind being then at South, we tack’d and stood off, being about 2 Leagues from the Cape, which bore about West-North-West. In this situation had 33 fathoms water; the wind continued between South-West and South all night, in times very squally, with rain. At 2 a.m. tacked to the Westward until near 8, when we again stood off Cape Laguillas, North-West, distance 2 or 3 Leagues. At 9 the weather clear’d up, and the wind fix’d at South by West. We tack’d, and stood to the Westward. At Noon Cape Laguillas bore North-East by North, distant 4 Leagues. The land of this Cape is very low and sandy next the Sea; inland it is of a moderate height.

    Latitude 34 degrees 50 minutes South, Longitude 339 degrees 23 minutes West, or 20 degrees 37 minutes East, deduced from Yesterday’s Observations.

    Wind East-South-East Southerly; course South 69 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 37 miles; latitude 34 degrees 58 minutes South; longitude 339 degrees 30 minutes per Observation, 329 degrees 17 minutes per Reckoning.

  587. 13 March 1771

    Off the Cape of Good Hope

    Wednesday, 13th. In the P.M., having the wind at South, we steer’d along shore West by South 1/2 South until 3 o’clock, when, finding this course carried us off from the land, we steer’d West by North; at 6 o’clock Cape Laguillas, or the high land over it, bore East by North 12 Leagues distance, and the westermost land in sight North-West 1/2 West. We continued a West by North course, with the wind at South-East until day light in the Morning, when we haul’d in North-West and North-West by North; at 8 the Cape of Good Hope North-West by North, and at 10 we were abreast of it, and distance off about 1 League or little more. We passed close without a rock, on which the Sea broke very high; it lies about a League right out to Sea from the Cape. After passing the Cape we kept along shore at the distance of about 1 League off, having a fresh Gale at South-East; at noon the Cape bore South-East, distance 4 Leagues.

    Latitude observed 34 degrees 15 minutes South, Longitude in, by our reckoning, corrected by the last observation, 341 degrees 7 minutes West, or 18 degrees 53 minutes East from Greenwich, by which the Cape lies in 34 degrees 25 minutes South Latitude, and 19 degrees 1 minute East Longitude from Greenwich, which nearly agrees with the observations made at the Cape Town by Messrs. Mason and Dixon in 1761; a proof that our observations have been well made, and that as such they may always be depended upon to a surprizing degree of accuracey. If we had had no such guide we should have found an error of 10 degrees 13 minutes of Longitude, or perhaps more to the East, such an effect the current must have had upon the ship.

  588. 14 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Thursday, 14th. Winds at South-East, a fresh Gale, but as we approached the Lyons Tail or West Point, Table Bay, we had flurries of wind from all points of the compass; this was occasioned by the high land, for clear of it the wind was still at South-East, and blow’d so strong out of the Bay that we could not work the ship in; we were therefore obliged to anchor a good way without all the ships at anchor in the road, in the whole 16 sail, viz., 8 Dutch, 3 Danes, 4 French—a frigate and 3 store ships—and one English East Indiaman, who saluted us with 11 guns; we returned 9. The gale continued, which obliged us to lay fast all the morning.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  589. 15 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Friday, 15th. Strong gales at South-East all the afternoon and most part of the night, though in the evening it fell a little moderate, which gave the Indiaman’s boat an opportunity to come on board us, with a complement of a basket of fruit, etc.; she was the Admiral Pocock, Captain Riddell, homeward bound from Bombay. In the morning we got under sail, and stood into the road, having variable light airs mostly from the sea. A Dutch boat from the shore came on board, in which were the Master Attendant and some other Gentlemen; the former directed us to a proper berth, where about 10 o’clock we anchored in 7 fathoms water, an ouzey bottom; the Lyon Tail, or west point of the Bay, bore West-North-West, and the Castle South-West, distance 1 1/2 miles.

    I now sent a petty officer on shore to know if they would return our salute, but before he return’d we saluted, which was immediately return’d with the same number of guns; after this I waited myself upon the Governour, who was pleased to tell me that I should have everything I wanted that the place afforded. My first care was to provide a proper place ashore for the reception of the sick, for which purpose I order’d the Surgeon to look out for a house where they could be lodged and dieted. This he soon found, and agreed with the people of the house for 2 shillings a day per man; which I found was the customary price and method of proceeding. I afterwards gave the Surgeon an order to superintend the whole.

  590. 16 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Saturday, 16th. Variable light airs all this day. Moor’d the ship and struck yards and topmast, and in the morning got all the sick (28) ashore to quarters provided for them, and got off fresh meat and greens for the people on board.

  591. 17 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Sunday, 17th. In the A.M. sail’d for England the Admiral Pocock, Captain Riddle, by whom I sent letters to the Admiralty and Royal Society. About noon came on a hard, dry gale from the South-East.

  592. 18 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Monday, 18th. In the P.M. anchored in the offing an English ship, which proved to be the Houghton Indiaman from Bengal. In the A.M. it fell moderate, and we began to water the ship.

  593. 19 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Tuesday, 19th. Variable gentle breezes. All this day employ’d repairing sails, rigging, watering, etc.

  594. 20 March 1771

    At the Cape of Good Hope: Reflections on Health at Sea

    This passage offers another, albeit indirect, acknowledgment of the importance of Cook’s enforced dietary regimen in maintaining crew health.

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “In the P.M. sail’d the Houghton Indiaman, who saluted us with 11 guns, which compliment we returned; this ship, during her stay in India, lost by sickness between 30 and 40 men, and had at this time a good many down with the scurvy. Other ships suffer’d in the same proportion.

    Thus we find that ships which have been little more than 12 months from England have suffer’d as much or more by sickness than we have done, who have been out near 3 times as long. Yet their sufferings will hardly, if at all, be mentioned or known in England; when, on the other hand, those of the Endeavour, because the voyage is uncommon, will very probably be mentioned in every newspaper.

    And, what is not unlikely, with many additional hardships we never experienced; for such are the disposition of men in general in these voyages that they are seldom content with the hardships and dangers which will naturally occur, but they must add others which hardly ever had existence but in their imaginations, by magnifying the most trifling accidents and circumstances to the greatest hardships and unsurmountable dangers without the immediate interposition of Providence, as if the whole merit of the voyage consisted in the dangers and hardships they underwent, or that real ones did not happen often enough to give the mind sufficient anxiety.”

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

     

  595. 21 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Thursday, 21st. Fine pleasant weather. Employ’d getting on board water, overhauling the rigging, and repairing sails. Sail’d for Batavia a Dutch ship.

  596. 22 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Friday, 22nd, Saturday, 23rd, Sunday, 24th, Monday, 25th, Tuesday, 26th. Mostly fine pleasant weather. On the 23rd compleated our water, after which I gave as many of the people leave to go on shore to refresh themselves as could be spared at one time.

  597. 27 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Wednesday, 27th. Winds variable and clear, pleasant weather. Sail’d for Holland 4 sail Dutch ships.

  598. 28 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Thursday, 28th, Friday, 29th. Ditto weather. Employ’d fixing new topmast and backstays, repairing sails, etc.

  599. 30 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Saturday, 30th. In the P.M. anchor’d here the Duke of Gloucester, English East India Ship from China. In the evening a prodigious hard gale of wind came on at South-East, which continued till about 3 o’clock in the morning. During the gale the Table Mountains and adjacent hills were cap’d with extraordinary white clouds; the remainder of the day light airs and pleasant weather.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  600. 31 March 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Sunday, 31st. Clear pleasant weather all this day. In the morning we got on board a whole ox, which we cut up and salted. I had eat ashore some of as good and fat beef as ever I eat in my life, and was told that I might have as good to salt; but in this I was very much disappointed. The one I got was thin and lean, yet well tasted; it weighed 408 pounds.

  601. 1 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Monday, April 1st. In the P.M. I observed a dark, dense haze like a fog bank in the south-east horizon, and which clouds began to gather over the Table Mountain; certain signs of an approaching gale from the same quarter, which about 4 o’clock began to blow with great violence, and continued more or less so the remainder of these 24 hours, the Table Mountain cap’d with white clouds all the time. The weather dry and clear.

  602. 2 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Tuesday, 2nd. First part fresh gales at South-East, the remainder little wind and calms. In the P.M. sail’d for England the Duke of Gloucester Indiaman, who saluted us at his departure. In the A.M. anchored here 2 Dutch ships from Batavia, and a third at anchor under Penguin Island in distress. Put on shore some sick people.

  603. 3 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Wednesday, 3rd. Fine, pleasant weather. Some people on shore on liberty to refresh; the rest employ’d repairing sails and overhauling the rigging.

  604. 4 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Thursday, 4th. Ditto weather. Employ’d painting the ship and paying her sides.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  605. 5 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Friday, 5th. Variable light winds. Sail’d for Holland 3 Dutch ships. Employ’d as above, and getting on board provisions, etc.

     

  606. 6 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Saturday, 6th. Gentle breezes, with some rain in the night.

  607. 7 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Sunday, 7th. Gentle breezes, and fine, pleasant weather; a signal for some ships being in the offing.

  608. 8 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Monday, 8th. Gentle breezes from the westward. In the night anchor’d here the Europa, an English East Indiaman from Bengal, and in the morning she saluted us with 11 guns, which complement we return’d.

  609. 9 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Tuesday, 9th. Little wind at South-West, with foggy, hazy weather. Employ’d making ready for sea.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  610. 10 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Wednesday, 10th. Gentle breezes at South-South-East and fair weather. Took on board 11 of our people from sick quarters.

  611. 11 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Thursday, 11th. Ditto weather. Employ’d getting on board various articles of provisions from the shore.

  612. 12 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Friday, 12th. Wind at South-West, fair weather. Set up the Topmast rigging, and bent the sails.

  613. 13 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Saturday, 13th. Fresh breezes at South-West, and cloudy, hazey weather. In the night anchor’d here a Dutch ship from Holland; she sail’d about 3 months ago in company with 2 more. The news brought by this ship is that a war is dayley expected between England and Spain. Signals out for 4 or 5 sail more being in the offing, one of which is said to be a ship from England. Took leave of the Gouvernour, intending to sail to-morrow.

  614. 14 April 1771

    Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Sunday, 14th. Wind westerly, gentle breezes. In the P.M. got all the sick on board, many of whom are yet in a very bad state of health; 3 died here, but this loss was made up by the opportunity we had of compleating our full complement. In the morning unmoor’d and got ready for sailing.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  615. 15 April 1771

    Leaving Table Bay for Penguin (Robin) Island

    Monday, 15th. None of the Ships in the Offing are yet arrived. Desirous as we must be of hearing news from England, I detemmin’d not to wait the arrival of these Ships, but took the advantage of a breeze of wind from the West-South-West; weigh’d and stood out of the Bay, saluted with 13 Guns, which Complement was return’d both by the Castle and Dutch Commodore.

    The Europa Saluted us as we passed her, which we return’d. This Ship was to have sail’d with or before us, but not liking the opportunity she lay fast. At 5 in the Evening anchor’d under Penguin or Robin Island in 10 fathoms water, the Island extending from West-North-West to South-South-West, distant 1 1/2 or 2 miles.

    In the Morning saw a Ship standing into Table Bay, under English Colours, which we took to be an Indiaman; at Noon Latitude observed 33 degrees 49 minutes South; Cape Town South 20 degrees East, distant 7 miles. As we could not Sail in the Morning for want of wind, I sent a Boat to the Island for a few Trifling Articles we had forgot to take in at the Cape, but the people on shore would not permit her to land, so that she return’d as she went, and I gave myself no further Trouble at it.

    Mr. Banks, who was in the Boat, was of opinion that it was owing to a mistake made respecting the rank of the Officer commanding the Boat; be this as it may, it seems probable that the Dutch do not admit of Strangers landing upon this Island least they should carry off some of those people which, for certain crimes, they Banish here for Life, as we were told was done by a Danish Ship a few years ago. But they might have a better reason for refusing our Boat to land, for it is not improbable but what there might be some English Seamen upon this Island whom they had sent from the Cape while we lay there, well knowing that if they came in my way I should take them on board; and this, I am told, is frequently done when any of His Majesty’s Ships are in the Bay, for it is well known that the Dutch East India Ships are mostly mann’d by Foreigners.

  616. 16 April 1771

    Off Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope

    Tuesday, 16th. At 2 o’clock in the P.M. saw a large Ship behind the Island, under French Colours, standing into Table Bay; at 3 weigh’d with a light breeze at South-East, and put to Sea. At 4 departed this life Mr. Robert Molineux, Master, a young man of good parts, but had unfortunately given himself up to extravagancy and intemperance, which brought on disorders that put a period to his life. At 6 we had the Table Mountain and the Penguin Island in one bearing South-South-East, distant from the latter about 4 or 5 Leagues; had it calm most part of the night. In the morning a light breeze sprung up Southerly, with which we steer’d North-West; at noon we were by observation in latitude 33 degrees 30 minutes South. The Table Mountain bore South 54 degrees East, distant 14 Leagues. N.B. The Table Mountain lies directly over the Cape Town, from which last I take my departure; it lies in the latitude of 33 degrees 56 minutes South, and longitude 341 degrees 37 minutes West from Greenwich.

  617. 17 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean, off the Cape of Good Hope

    Wednesday, 17th. Fresh breezes and fair weather, with a swell from the South-West.

    Wind Southerly; course North 50 degrees West; distance 118 miles; latitude 32 degrees 14 minutes South; longitude 344 degrees 8 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  618. 18 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean, off the Cape of Good Hope

    Thursday, 18th. Gentle breezes and clear weather. Swell as before.

    Wind Ditto; course North-West; distance 85 miles; latitude 31 degrees 14 minutes South; longitude 345 degrees 19 minutes West.

  619. 19 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Friday, 19th. Little wind and sometimes calm. Swell from the Southward.

    Wind South-East to North-West; course North 50 degrees West; distance 16 miles; latitude 31 degrees 14 minutes South; longitude 345 degrees 33 minutes West.

  620. 20 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Saturday, 20th. Gentle breezes and clear weather.

    Wind Westerly; latitude 29 degrees 40 minutes South; longitude 346 degrees 10 minutes West.

  621. 21 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 21st. A moderate trade wind and pleasant weather.

    Wind Southerly; course North 54 degrees West; distance 100 miles; latitude 28 degrees 43 minutes South; longitude 347 degrees 42 minutes West.

  622. 22 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 22nd. A fresh trade and pleasant weather. Exercised the people at small arms.

    Observations for longitude with the sun and moon agree with the log.

    Wind South-East; course North 50 degrees West; distance 118 miles; latitude 27 degrees 27 minutes South; longitude 349 degrees 24 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  623. 23 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 23rd. Gentle breezes and clear weather. Found the variation in the evening, by the amplitude, to be 17 degrees 40 minutes West, and by azimuth in the morning 18 degrees 37 minutes.

    Employ’d repairing boats and sails. Exercis’d great guns and small arms.

    Wind South-East by South to West-South-West; course North 46 degrees West; distance 98 miles; latitude 26 degrees 19 minutes South; longitude 350 degrees 42 minutes West.

  624. 24 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Wednesday, 24th. Ditto weather. Found the variation to be 17 degrees 30 minutes West. Employ’d as yesterday.

    Wind West, West-North-West; course North 20 degrees West; distance 78 miles; latitude 25 degrees 6 minutes South; longitude 351 degrees 16 minutes West.

  625. 25 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Thursday, 25th. First part moderate and clear; middle, squally with rain; latter, fresh gales and cloudy.

    Employ’d as above.

    Wind North-West, South-West; course North 20° West; distance 105 miles; latitude 23°28′ South; longitude 351°52′ West.

  626. 26 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Friday, 26th. Fresh gales, and a large swell from the Southward.

    Wind South-South-West, South-East by South; course North 50 degrees West; distance 168 miles; latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes South; longitude 354 degrees 12 minutes West.

  627. 27 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Saturday, 27th. Fresh gales and cloudy. Employ’d repairing sails.

    Wind South-East ½ South; course North 55 degrees West; distance 168 miles; latitude 20 degrees 4 minutes South; longitude 356 degrees 40 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

     

  628. 28 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 28th. Ditto weather. Variation per Azimuth 14 degrees West.

    Wind South-East; course North 56 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 152 miles; latitude 18 degrees 41 minutes South; longitude 358 degrees 54 minutes West.

  629. 29 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 29th. Ditto gales. Variation 13 degrees 53 minutes West.

    In the A.M. crossed the line of our first meridian, viz., that of Greenwich, having now circumnavigated the globe in a west direction.

    Wind South-East; course North 53 degrees West; distance 136 miles; latitude 17 degrees 19 minutes South; longitude 0 degrees 50 minutes West.

  630. 30 April 1771

    South Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 30th. Fresh gales and pleasant weather. Exercised the people at great guns and small arms.

    Wind South-East; course North 58 degrees West; distance 126 miles; latitude 16 degrees 11 minutes South; longitude 2 degrees 42 minutes West.

  631. 1 May 1771

    St. Helena Road

    Wednesday, 1st May. Fresh trade and pleasant weather. At 6 A.M. saw the Island of St. Helena bearing West, distant 8 or 9 leagues. At noon anchored in the road before James’s Fort in 24 fathoms water. Found riding here His Majesty’s Ship *Portland* and *Swallow* Sloop, and 12 sail of Indiamen. At our first seeing the fleet in this road we took it for granted that it was a war; but in this we were soon agreeably deceived. The *Europa* Indiaman anchored here a little before us; she sailed from the Cape two days after us, and brings an account that the French ship we saw standing into Table Bay was a man of war of 64 guns bound to India, and that there were two more on their passage.

    Wind South-East. At noon at anchor in St. Helena Road.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  632. 2 May 1771

    St. Helena Road

    Thursday, 2nd May. Clear, pleasant weather. In the P.M. moored with the kedge anchor, and in the A.M. received some few officers’ stores from the *Portland*.

    Wind Ditto. At noon at anchor in St. Helena Road.

  633. 3 May 1771

    St. Helena Road

    Friday, 3rd May. Clear, pleasant weather. Employed repairing sails, overhauling the rigging, etc.

    Wind South-East. At noon at anchor in St. Helena Road.

  634. 4 May 1771

    St. Helena Road

    Saturday, 4th May. Little wind and pleasant weather. At 6 A.M. the *Portland* made the signal to unmoor, and at noon to weigh, at which time the ships began to get under sail.

    Wind Ditto. At noon at anchor in St. Helena Road.

  635. 5 May 1771

    At Sea, leaving St. Helena

    Sunday, 5th May. Gentle breezes and clear weather. At 1 P.M. weigh’d, and stood out of the road in company with the *Portland* and 12 sail of Indiamen. At 6 o’clock James Fort, St. Helena, bore East ½ South, distant 3 leagues. In the A.M. found the variation to be 13 degrees 10 minutes West.

    Wind East by South; course North 50 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 71 miles; latitude 15 degrees 5 minutes South; longitude 6 degrees 46 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  636. 6 May 1771

    At Sea, North-West of St. Helena

    Monday, 6th May. Moderate breezes and cloudy weather. Sailing in company with the fleet.

    Wind East-South-East; course North 47½ degrees West; distance 122 miles; latitude 13 degrees 42 minutes South; longitude 8 degrees 27 minutes West.

  637. 7 May 1771

    At Sea, North-West of St. Helena

    Tuesday, 7th May. Ditto weather. In the A.M. found the variation to be 12 degrees 5 minutes West. Exercised the people at great guns and small arms.

    Wind South-East; course North 46 degrees West; distance 137 miles; latitude 12 degrees 5 minutes South; longitude 10 degrees 9 minutes West.

  638. 8 May 1771

    At Sea, North-West of St. Helena

    Wednesday, 8th May. A steady breeze and pleasant weather. All the fleet in company.

    Wind South-East; course North 46 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 126 miles; latitude 10 degrees 39 minutes South; longitude 11 degrees 42 minutes West.

  639. 9 May 1771

    At Sea, North-West of St. Helena

    Thursday, 9th May. Ditto weather. In the evening found the variation to be 11 degrees 42 minutes West.

    Wind South-East by South; course North-West; distance 118 miles; latitude 9 degrees 16 minutes South; longitude 13 degrees 17 minutes West.

  640. 10 May 1771

    At Sea, off Ascension Island

    Friday, 10th May. At 6 in the A.M. saw the Island of Ascension bearing North-North-West, distant 7 leagues. Made the signal to speak with the Portland, and soon after Captain Elliott himself came on board, to whom I delivered a letter for the Admiralty and a box containing the ship’s common log books, and some of the officers’ journals, etc. I did this because it seemed probable that the Portland would get home before us, as we sail much heavier than any of the fleet. (*The Portland and the India fleet got home three days before the Endeavour.*)

    At noon the Island of Ascension bore East by South, distant 4 or 5 leagues. By our observations it lies in latitude 7 degrees 54 minutes South, and longitude 14 degrees 18 minutes West. A North-West by North course by compass, or North-West a little Westerly by the globe from St. Helena, will bring you directly to this island.

    Wind Ditto; course North-West; distance 120 miles; latitude 7 degrees 51 minutes South; longitude 14 degrees 32 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  641. 11 May 1771

    At Sea, North-West of Ascension Island

    Saturday, 11th May. A steady trade wind and pleasant weather. At half past 6 p.m. the Island of Ascension bore South-East three-quarters East, distant 11 or 12 leagues. Sailing in company with the fleet.

    Wind Ditto; course North 42 degrees West; distance 117 miles; latitude 6 degrees 24 minutes South; longitude 15 degrees 51 minutes West.

  642. 12 May 1771

    At Sea, North-West of Ascension Island

    Saturday, 12th May. First and middle parts a steady breeze and fair; the latter, light squalls with rain.

    Wind South-East by South to South-East by East; course North 31 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 123 miles; latitude 4 degrees 38 minutes South; longitude 16 degrees 54 minutes West.

  643. 13 May 1771

    At Sea, South Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 13th May. Gentle breezes and clear weather; hot and sultry. Sailing in company with the fleet. Variation 10 degrees West.

    Wind South-East by South; course North 32 1/2 degrees West; distance 119 miles; latitude 2 degrees 58 minutes South; longitude 17 degrees 58 minutes West.

  644. 14 May 1771

    At Sea, South Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 14th May. Ditto weather.

    Wind South-East by South; course North 32 1/2 degrees West; distance 109 miles; latitude 1 degree 26 minutes South; longitude 18 degrees 57 minutes West.

  645. 15 May 1771

    At Sea, North of the Equator, Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 15th May. Little wind and hot, sultry weather. In the P.M. observed, merely for the sake of observing, an eclipse of the Sun. In the A.M. brought another foretopsail to the yard, the old one being quite worn out.

    Wind East-South-East; course North 32 1/2 degrees West; distance 85 miles; latitude 0 degrees 14 minutes South; longitude 19 degrees 43 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  646. 16 May 1771

    At Sea, North of the Equator, Atlantic Ocean

    Wednesday, 16th May. Light breezes and fair weather. Variation 9 degrees 30 minutes West.

    Wind South-East by South; course North 31 degrees West; distance 71 miles; latitude 0 degrees 47 minutes North; longitude 20 degrees 20 minutes West.

  647. 17 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Thursday, 17th May. Ditto weather. Sailing in company with the Fleet.

    Wind South-East by South; course North 31 degrees West; distance 61 miles; latitude 1 degree 39 minutes North; longitude 20 degrees 50 minutes West.

  648. 18 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Saturday, 18th May. First part ditto weather; remainder squally, with thunder and rain. The observed latitude is 14 miles to the northward of the Log. Sailing in company with the Fleet.

    Wind South-South-East to East; course North 20 degrees West; distance 86 miles; latitude 3 degrees 0 minutes North; longitude 21 degrees 22 minutes West.

  649. 19 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 19th May. Cloudy, unsettled weather, with some rain. In the A.M. found the variation by the amplitude and azimuth 7 degrees 40 minutes West. Hoisted a boat out and sent on board the Houghton for the Surgeon, Mr. Carret, in order to look at Mr. Hicks, who is so far gone in a consumption that his life is despaired of. Observation at noon 16 miles to the northward of the Log.

    Wind South-East to South by East; course North 20 degrees West; distance 98 miles; latitude 4 degrees 32 minutes North; longitude 21 degrees 58 minutes West.

  650. 20 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 20th May. Dark, cloudy, unsettled weather, with rain. At noon the observed latitude was 27 miles to the northward of the Log. Sailing in company with the Fleet.

    Wind variable between the South and East; course North 19 degrees West; distance 70 miles; latitude 5 degrees 38 minutes North; longitude 22 degrees 21 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  651. 21 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 21st May. Little wind, with some heavy showers of rain. At 2 p.m. had some observations of the Sun and Moon, which gave the longitude 24 degrees 50 minutes West, 2 degrees 28 minutes West of account. In the morning it was calm, and the ships, being near one another, several of them had their boats out to tow. We observed the Portland to carry out a long warp. I, being desirous to see the machine they made use of, we hoisted out a boat, and Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself went on board her, where we were show’d it. It was made of canvas, in every respect like an Umbrello; its circumference, if extended to a circle, was 24 feet, tho’ this was a small one of the sort; yet Captain Elliot told me that it would hold as much as 150 men could haul. I was so well satisfied of the utility of this machine that I would not have delayed a moment in having one made had not our forge been render’d useless by the loss of some of its parts.

    Winds variable; course North 31 degrees West; distance 35 miles; latitude 6 degrees 8 minutes North; longitude 25 degrees 8 minutes West.

  652. 22 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Wednesday, 22nd May. Variable, unsettled weather, with rain. About 9 o’clock in the A.M. the Portland shortened sail for the sternmost ships to come up. As we imagined, this gave us an opportunity to get ahead of the fleet, after which we made such sail as was necessary to keep in company.

    Wind variable; course North-North-West 3/4 West; distance 58 miles; latitude 6 degrees 58 minutes North; longitude 25 degrees 38 minutes West.

  653. 23 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Thursday, 23rd May. Little wind from the Eastward, with frequent showers of rain, and hazy weather. The fleet astern of us all this day. At noon we shortened sail for them to come up, the headmost being about 2 leagues off.

    Wind East to North-East; course North 25 degrees West; distance 56 miles; latitude 7 degrees 49 minutes North; longitude 26 degrees 2 minutes West.

  654. 24 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Friday, 24th May. First part moderate breezes and hazy, with rain; the latter, fresh breezes and fair. At 3 p.m., finding the fleet to come fast up with us, we made all the sail we could. Soon after it became hazy, and we lost sight of them until near 6, when it clear’d up a little, and we saw 3 sail abreast of us, bearing East about 2 or 3 miles’ distance; by this we saw that they not only kept a better wind, but outsail’d us upon a wind. It became again hazy, and we lost sight of them, and notwithstanding we kept close upon a wind all night, with as much sail out as we could bear, there was not one sail in sight in the morning.

    Wind North-East and North-North-East; course North 54 degrees West; distance 92 miles; latitude 8 degrees 42 minutes North; longitude 27 degrees 18 minutes West.

  655. 25 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Saturday, 25th May. Moderate trade wind and cloudy weather.

    Wind North-North-East; course North 50 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 92 miles; latitude 9 degrees 41 minutes North; longitude 28 degrees 30 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  656. 26 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 26th May. A steady trade and cloudy weather. About 1 o’clock P.M. departed this life Lieutenant Hicks, and in the evening his body was committed to the sea with the usual ceremonies. He died of a consumption, which he was not free from when we sail’d from England, so that it may be truly said that he hath been dying ever since, though he held out tolerable well until we got to Batavia.

    Wind North-East by North; course North 46 degrees West; distance 92 miles; latitude 10 degrees 47 minutes North; longitude 29 degrees 35 minutes West.

  657. 27 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 27th May. A steady, fresh trade and cloudy weather. This day I gave Mr. Charles Clerk an order to act as Lieutenant in the room of Mr. Hicks, deceased, he being a young man extremely well qualified for that station.

    Wind North-East; course North 39 degrees West; distance 103 miles; latitude 12 degrees 7 minutes North; longitude 30 degrees 40 minutes West.

  658. 28 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 28th May. A steady trade and fair weather.

    Wind North-Easterly; course North 40 degrees West; distance 108 miles; latitude 13 degrees 30 minutes North; longitude 31 degrees 51 minutes West.

  659. 29 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Wednesday, 29th May. Fresh gales and hazey.

    Wind Ditto; course North 31½ degrees West; distance 128 miles; latitude 15 degrees 19 minutes North; longitude 33 degrees 2 minutes West.

  660. 30 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Thursday, 30th May. Ditto gales and cloudy. Fix’d a new main topmast backstay, the old one having broke several times.

    Wind Ditto; course North 31 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 124 miles; latitude 17 degrees 5 minutes North; longitude 34 degrees 9 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  661. 31 May 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Friday, 31st May. Strong gales and cloudy. In the evening got down topgallant yards, and in the morning found the variation 5 degrees 9 minutes West.

    Wind North-East and North-East by East; course North 39½ degrees West; distance 136 miles; latitude 18 degrees 50 minutes North; longitude 35 degrees 40 minutes West.

  662. 1 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Saturday, 1st June. Fresh trade and cloudy weather. In the A.M. got up topgallant yards.

    Wind North-East; course North 35 degrees West; distance 100 miles; latitude 20 degrees 12 minutes North; longitude 36 degrees 41 minutes West.

  663. 2 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 2nd June. Moderate gales and clear weather. Variation 5 degrees 4 minutes West.

    Wind North-East to North-North-East; course North 49 degrees West; distance 104 miles; latitude 21 degrees 20 minutes North; longitude 38 degrees 5 minutes West.

  664. 3 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 3rd June. A gentle trade wind and pleasant weather.

    Wind North-East; course North 44 degrees West; distance 85 miles; latitude 22 degrees 21 minutes North; longitude 39 degrees 9 minutes West.

  665. 4 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 4th June. Ditto weather. In the A.M. found the variation to be 4 degrees 30 minutes West.

    Wind North-East; course North 34 degrees West; distance 91 miles; latitude 23 degrees 40 minutes North; longitude 40 degrees 4 minutes West.

  666. 5 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Wednesday, 5th June. Gentle breezes, with some showers of small rain.

    Wind North-East; course North 52 degrees West; distance 83 miles; latitude 24 degrees 31 minutes North; longitude 41 degrees 11 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  667. 6 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Thursday, 6th June. Ditto weather. In the A.M. found the variation by the mean of the amplitude and azimuth to be 5 degrees 34 minutes West, and by observation of the Sun and Moon found the ship in longitude 43 degrees 18 minutes West of Greenwich, 2 degrees 51 minutes West of the log since the last observations; this I judge to be owing to a westerly current.

    Wind East-North-East to East; course North 3/4 West; distance 90 miles; latitude 26 degrees 1 minute North; longitude, per observation of Sun and Moon, 43 degrees 18 minutes West.

  668. 7 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Friday, 7th June. Moderate breezes and cloudy. A.M., variation per mean of 20 azimuths 5 degrees 20 minutes West.

    Wind East-North-East; course North 15 degrees West; distance 84 miles; latitude 27 degrees 22 minutes North; longitude 43 degrees 42 minutes West.

  669. 8 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Saturday, 8th June. Moderate breezes and pleasant weather. In the A.M. found the variation to be 5 degrees 24 minutes West. By the observation of the Sun and Moon, the longitude of the ship at noon was 43 degrees 42 minutes West.

    Wind Easterly; course North; distance 88 miles; latitude 28 degrees 50 minutes North; longitude 43 degrees 42 minutes West.

  670. 9 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 9th June. Clear, pleasant weather and a smooth sea. In the A.M. found the variation to be 7 degrees 33 minutes West. Some tropic birds flying about the ship; we have seen these birds every day since we passed the tropic.

    Wind Ditto; course North by West 1/2 West; distance 81 miles; latitude 30 degrees 11 minutes North; longitude 44 degrees 9 minutes West.

  671. 10 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 10th June. Little wind and clear weather. Exercised the people at small arms.

    Wind Ditto; course North 30 degrees West; distance 71 miles; latitude 31 degrees 12 minutes North; longitude 44 degrees 50 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  672. 11 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 11th June. Ditto weather, with a smooth sea.

    Wind North-East by East; course North 18 degrees West; distance 67 miles; latitude 32 degrees 16 minutes North; longitude 45 degrees 14 minutes West.

  673. 12 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Wednesday, 12th June. Light breezes and clear weather. Variation by the amplitude in the evening 7 degrees 0 minutes West, and by azimuth in the morning 6 degrees 55 minutes West. Exercised great guns and small arms.

    Wind East by South; course North-North-East; distance 48 miles; latitude 33 degrees 8 minutes North; longitude 44 degrees 53 minutes West.

  674. 13 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Thursday, 13th June. Little wind and pleasant weather. Found the variation by the amplitude in the evening to be 8 degrees 23 minutes; in the morning 8 degrees 15 minutes, and by azimuth soon after 8 degrees 14 minutes West.

    Wind Ditto; course North by East 1/2 East; distance 77 miles; latitude 34 degrees 14 minutes North; longitude 44 degrees 25 minutes West.

  675. 14 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Friday, 14th June. A gentle gale, and pleasant weather. In the A.M. saw two turtle lying asleep upon the water.

    Wind East-South-East; course North 18 degrees East; distance 99 miles; latitude 35 degrees 48 minutes North; longitude 43 degrees 48 minutes West.

  676. 15 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Saturday, 15th June. Ditto weather. At daylight in the morning saw a sloop to windward standing to the eastward, which we ran out of sight by noon.

    Wind South-East; course North-East 1/2 East; distance 119 miles; latitude 37 degrees 2 minutes North; longitude 41 degrees 54 minutes West.

  677. 16 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 16th June. A steady breeze and pleasant weather, with some rain in the night. At daylight in the morning saw a sail ahead, which we came up with and spoke a little after 10 o’clock. She proved to be a Portuguese ship from Rio de Janeiro, bound to Lisbon.

    Wind Ditto; course North-East 1/2 East; distance 119 miles; latitude 38 degrees 18 minutes North; longitude 40 degrees 38 minutes West.

  678. 17 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 17th June. Steady, gentle gales and pleasant weather. Variation in the evening 9 degrees West.

    Wind South-South-East; course North 68 degrees East; distance 104 miles; latitude 38 degrees 57 minutes North; longitude 38 degrees 36 minutes West.

  679. 18 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 18th June. Little wind and clear weather. At 2 p.m. found the ship by observation to be 1 degree 22 minutes to the westward of account carried on from the last observation. In the evening the variation was 14 degrees 15 minutes West, and in the morning 14 degrees 24 minutes.

    Wind South; course North 66 degrees East; distance 82 miles; latitude 39 degrees 52 minutes North; longitude 36 degrees 59 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  680. 19 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Wednesday, 19th June. Fresh gales and cloudy. At 2 p.m. found by observation the same error in our longitude as yesterday, which I have now corrected; the longitude of this day is that resulting from observation. At 10 a.m. saw a sail ahead, which we soon came up with and sent a boat on board. She proved to be a schooner from Rhode Island out upon the whale fishery. From her we learnt that all was peace in Europe, and that the American disputes were made up; to confirm this, the master said that the coat on his back was made in old England. Soon after leaving this vessel we spoke another from Boston and saw a third, all out on the same account.

    Wind South to South-West; course North 73 degrees East; distance 127 miles; latitude 40 degrees 9 minutes North; longitude 36 degrees 44 minutes West.

  681. 20 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Thursday, 20th June. Fresh gales and cloudy, with some showers of rain. At daylight in the morning saw a sail ahead standing to the east. A swell from the North-North-West.

    Wind South-West, North-West, North; course North 80½ degrees East; distance 121 miles; latitude 40 degrees 29 minutes North; longitude 33 degrees 10 minutes West.

  682. 21 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Friday, 21st June. Fresh gales and cloudy. In the P.M. saw a sail astern standing to the South-East, and at 11 o’clock A.M. saw from the masthead 13 sail of stout ships, which we took to be the East India Fleet.

    Wind Northerly; course East by North; distance 128 miles; latitude 40 degrees 33 minutes North; longitude 30 degrees 20 minutes West.

  683. 22 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Saturday, 22nd June. Fresh gales, with squalls attended with rain. In the evening had 14 sail in sight—13 upon our lee quarter, and a snow upon our lee bow. In the night split both topgallant sails so much that they were obliged to be unbent to repair. In the morning the carpenter reported the main topmast to be sprung in the cap, which we supposed happened in the P.M., when both the weather backstays broke. Our rigging and sails are now so bad that something or another is giving way every day. At noon had 13 sail in sight, which we are well assured are the India Fleet, and are all now upon our weather quarter.

    Wind North to North-East; course North 81 degrees East; distance 114 miles; latitude 41 degrees 11 minutes North; longitude 27 degrees 52 minutes West.

  684. 23 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 23rd June. Fresh gales and squally, attended with showers of rain. In the evening all the fleet were to windward of us, and in the morning not one was to be seen.

    Wind North-East by North to East-North-East; course South 69½ degrees East; distance 80 miles; latitude 40 degrees 43 minutes North; longitude 26 degrees 13 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  685. 24 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 24th June. First part moderate breezes; remainder squally. At noon tacked.

    Wind North-East to East-South-East; course South 82 degrees East; distance 64 miles; latitude 40 degrees 34 minutes North; longitude 24 degrees 49 minutes West.

  686. 25 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 25th June. First part and remainder a fresh breeze and cloudy.

    Wind North-East to North-North-East; course South 85 degrees East; distance 58 miles; latitude 40 degrees 39 minutes North; longitude 23 degrees 33 minutes West.

  687. 26 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Wednesday, 26th June. First part breezes; remainder little wind.

    Wind North by East; course North 86 degrees 45 minutes East; distance 72 miles; latitude 40 degrees 43 minutes North; longitude 21 degrees 58 minutes West.

  688. 27 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Thursday, 27th June. Moderate breezes and cloudy weather.

    Wind Westerly; course North 54 minutes East; distance 54 miles; latitude 41 degrees 14 minutes North; longitude 20 degrees 59 minutes West.

  689. 28 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Friday, 28th June. Fresh breezes, with showers of rain.

    Wind West to North-North-West; course North 38 degrees East; distance 123 miles; latitude 42 degrees 55 minutes North; longitude 19 degrees 18 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  690. 29 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Saturday, 29th June. First part little wind; remainder fresh gales and squally, with showers of rain.

    Wind South-West to West and North-East; course North 59 degrees 15 minutes East; distance 86 miles; latitude 43 degrees 39 minutes North; longitude 17 degrees 36 minutes West.

  691. 30 June 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 30th June. Gentle breezes and fair weather.

    Variation in the evening 18 degrees 30 minutes West, and in the morning 19 degrees 30 minutes.

    Wind Northerly; course North 50 degrees 45 minutes East; distance 87 miles; latitude 44 degrees 34 minutes North; longitude 16 degrees 2 minutes West.

  692. 1 July 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 1st July. Ditto weather. In the night passed 2 sail standing to the South-West.

    Wind Ditto; course North 77 degrees 15 minutes East; distance 90 miles; latitude 44 degrees 54 minutes North; longitude 13 degrees 59 minutes West.

  693. 2 July 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 2nd July. Little wind and cloudy, hazey weather. One sail in sight to the North-East.

    Wind Ditto; course East; distance 42 miles; latitude 45 degrees 54 minutes North; longitude 13 degrees 2 minutes West.

  694. 3 July 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Wednesday, 3rd July. Little wind and pleasant weather. At 9 A.M. found the ship by observation of the Sun and Moon 1 degree 14 minutes East of account. Six sail in sight.

    Wind North and North-West; course North 56 degrees East; distance 54 miles; latitude 45 degrees 24 minutes North; longitude 11 degrees 59 minutes West per Log, 10 degrees 45 minutes per Observation.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  695. 4 July 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Thursday, 4th July. Gentle breezes and cloudy weather. Variation per Azimuth and Amplitude in the evening 21 degrees 25 1/2 minutes West, and in the morning 20 degrees 10 minutes West.

    Wind West, North, and North-East; course South 85 degrees East; distance 55 miles; latitude 45 degrees 29 minutes North; longitude 10 degrees 44 minutes West per Log, 9 degrees 27 minutes per Observation.

  696. 5 July 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Friday, 5th July. Little wind and cloudy. At 1 P.M. spoke a Dutch Galliot bound to Riga. At 5 tack’d and stood to the Westward till 8 a.m., then to the Eastward.

    Wind North-East; course North 50 degrees East; distance 8 miles; latitude 45 degrees 34 minutes North; longitude 10 degrees 32 minutes West per Log, 9 degrees 18 minutes per Observation.

  697. 6 July 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Saturday, 6th July. Gentle breezes and cloudy. At 1 p.m. sent a boat on board a brig belonging to Boston, last from Gibraltar and bound to Falmouth.

    Wind North-North-East; course North 72 degrees 30 minutes East; distance 37 miles; latitude 44 degrees 45 minutes North; longitude 9 degrees 42 minutes West per Log, 8 degrees 28 minutes per Observation.

  698. 7 July 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Sunday, 7th July. Gentle breezes and clear weather. In the evening found the Variation by the Amplitude to be 22 degrees 30 minutes West.

    At 9 A.M. spoke a brig from Liverpool bound to Porto, and some time after another from London bound to the Granades. She had been 3 days from Scilly and reckoned herself in the longitude of about 10 minutes West, which was about 40 minutes to the Westward of what we found ourselves to-day by observation.

    We learnt from this vessel that no account had been received in England from us, and that wagers were held that we were lost. It seems highly improbable that the letters sent by the Dutch ships from Batavia should not come to hand, as it is now 5 months since these ships sail’d from the Cape of Good Hope.

    Wind North-North-East and North-West; course North 50 degrees East; distance 49 miles; latitude 46 degrees 16 minutes North; longitude 9 degrees 39 minutes West per Account, 9 degrees 29 minutes per Observation.

  699. 8 July 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Monday, 8th July. Little wind and hazy weather. Swell from the Northward.

    Wind North-North-West to South-West; course North 46 degrees 45 minutes East; distance 43 miles; latitude 46 degrees 45 minutes North; longitude 8 degrees 54 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  700. 9 July 1771

    At Sea, North Atlantic Ocean

    Tuesday, 9th July. Fore and middle parts a gentle breeze, and thick, foggy weather; remainder, a fresh breeze and cloudy. A swell from the North-North-West all day.

    Wind South-Westerly; course North 21 degrees East; distance 100 miles; latitude 48 degrees 19 minutes North; longitude 8 degrees 1 minute West per Account, 8 degrees 7 minutes per Observation.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  701. 10 July 1771

    At Sea, Approaching the English Channel

    Wednesday, 10th July. Pleasant breezes and clear weather. At 6 o’clock in the morning sounded, and struck ground in 60 fathoms, shells and stones, by which I judged we were the length of the Scilly Isles. At noon we saw land from the masthead, bearing North, which we judged to be about the Land’s End. Soundings 54 fathoms, coarse grey sand.

    Wind Westerly; course North 44 degrees East; distance 97 miles; latitude 49 degrees 29 minutes North; longitude 6 degrees 18 minutes West.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  702. 11 July 1771

    English Channel, Approaching the Coast of England

    Friday, 11th July. Steady fresh breezes and clear weather. At 2 in the P.M. saw the Lizardland, and at 6 o’clock the lighthouse bore North-West, distant 5 Leagues, we being at this time, by my reckoning, in the Longitude of 5 degrees 30 minutes West. Soon after, saw 2 ships under their topsails between us and the land, which we took for men of war.

    At 7 o’clock in the morning the Start Point bore North-West by North, distant 3 Leagues, and at noon we reckon’d ourselves about 5 Leagues short of Portland. This forenoon a small cutter-built vessel came under our stern and inquired after the India Fleet, which, they said, they were cruising for and had not seen.

    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  703. 12 July 1771

    English Channel

    Friday, 12th July. Winds at South-West, a fresh gale, with which we ran briskly up Channel. At half past 3 p.m. passed the Bill of Portland, and at 7 Peverell Point; at 6 a.m. passed Beachy Head at the distance of 4 or 5 miles; at 10 Dungeness, at the distance of 2 miles; and at noon we were abreast of Dover.

  704. 13 July 1771

    Arrival Home (July 1771)

    Cook’s Journal (Wharton):

    “Saturday, 13th July. At 3 o’clock in the P.M. anchored in the Downs, and soon after I landed in order to repair to London.”

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    Approximate Location: click to enlarge map or open in Google Maps.

  705. 13 July 1771

    Reflections

    Cook on the Success of the Voyage (July 1771)

    “We have been three years at sea and have made discoveries of great importance to navigation and geography… We have circumnavigated the globe, explored vast tracts of new land, and returned with health in greater measure than is usual in long voyages.”

    Cook on the Scurvy Prevention

    “The success of this voyage in preserving the health of the ship’s company must be chiefly attributed to the attention paid to cleanliness and to my method of distributing the victuals… Wort, sauerkraut, and portable soup were of much service, but the greatest prevention was fresh food whenever it could be got.”

    This statement, drawn from Cook’s official report and later Admiralty correspondence, refers to his revolutionary anti-scurvy measures.

    • He enforced daily cleanliness and ventilation below decks.
    • Issued sauerkraut, malt wort (for barley water), and citrus juice when available.
    • Stopped at every opportunity to obtain fresh fruits, vegetables, and greens.

    Result:

    Although many sailors later died of fever at Batavia, none of the crew died from scurvy during the main voyage — a first in naval history.

    This success changed how the Royal Navy provisioned all future voyages.

    Cook on Indigenous Peoples and Encounters

    “The inhabitants of the several places we visited are, generally speaking, of a mild and inoffensive disposition, and may, with proper treatment, be brought to relish our friendship rather than fear our superiority.”

    Cook reflected on the varying encounters throughout the Pacific — some tragic, some cooperative. He expressed regret over early conflicts (especially in New Zealand) and urged future navigators to act with restraint and fairness.

    Banks’s Reflection on Scientific Achievement

    “We have been fortunate beyond measure. The variety of Nature’s productions we have observed and collected surpasses all expectation. I flatter myself that these will contribute not a little to the advancement of natural history.”

    Joseph Banks returned to England with over 30,000 specimens (plants, shells, animals), hundreds of which were new to science. His collections became foundational to European botany and zoology.

    Cook’s Closing Reflection (1771 Report to the Admiralty)

    “The voyage has been attended with uncommon success, having made discoveries of great importance to navigation and science, and having preserved the health of the ship’s company beyond example in long voyages.”

    Cook closed his official report with characteristic modesty, highlighting the two great legacies of the first voyage:

    1. Geographical discovery and accurate charting (Tahiti, New Zealand, Australia).
    2. Maritime health innovation — proving that scurvy could be prevented.

    Historical Summary

    By the end of the Endeavour voyage (1768–1771):

    • Cook had charted over 5,000 miles of previously unknown coastline.
    • Scientific collections revolutionized European understanding of Pacific flora and fauna.
    • No crew died of scurvy, a feat unmatched at the time.
    • Cook’s methods became the model for future exploration — blending navigation, science, and health management.

     

  706. 1 January 1970

    Event 252